Welcome to VFRDiscussion

Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to contribute to this site by submitting your own content or replying to existing content. You'll be able to customize your profile, receive reputation points as a reward for submitting content, while also communicating with other members via your own private inbox, plus much more! This message will be removed once you have signed in.

Mohawk

Forum Contributor
  • Content count

    1,227
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    16

Mohawk last won the day on November 11 2016

Mohawk had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

431 Excellent

About Mohawk

  • Rank
    Motorcycle Racing Legend
  • Birthday

Profile Information

  • Location
    Bristol, UK
  • In My Garage:
    VFR800Fi Y2K, 120hp, minus 30Kg = VFR800R

Recent Profile Visitors

15,725 profile views
  1. Stock on the 5th gen is 17/43, I have used 16/43 & 16/42, but now using 16/45 its much peppier out of the corners & it doesn't add that many extra revs or fuel consumption. It's effective in every gear, as the engine is running more freely at all times, so accelerates hard with a twist of the wrist :) YMMV (literally this time) but I still get 180miles to the tank.
  2. There is no cheap way to do it. I added 25hp to my 5th gen up from stock 95 to 120 now. It took a lot of trial and error, but in the end it's cams, a complete exhaust, my own intake mods, plus a fuel tuning system, Rapid Bike or Powercommander. That little lot new will set you back about $2K. I have about $6K in mine with carbon wheels & lots of Titanium & carbon which has knocked 33Kg out of the dry weight of the bike which is now 177Kg. Search for my mods threads. YMMV
  3. Rearsets for 5th gen.?

    You could always try the adjustable offset peg mounts. They replace the stock foot peg with na adjustable item that can move 360 degrees, moving back up, or forward & down etc. There are some that just do the same to a fixed point. Alternately get a set of stock 5th gen hangers & fabricate a setup that allows any stnadard rearsets to be mounted. Or justride with your toes on the pegs like I do :)
  4. Speedo error

    Almost all bike speedos over read by 5-10% usually nearer 10, but your front sprocket size will have an impact on the speed displayed. Stock front is 17 teeth, many people fit 16tooth front sprocket, that will move your speedo towards 15% over reading. use the gearingcommander site to play with the variables including speedo accuracy. Use GPS to get a base line, the error is normally constant, so if GPS says 50mph & the speedo shows 55mph, then the error is 10% ! have fun, YMMV
  5. The single sided sliding calipers are notorious for drag. Did you compare the before & after ? Pushing pistons back is a bad idea, much better to remove the pads from one caliper at a time & pump the pistons out a bit. You will see if any are sticky by watching how they react to each lever pull, they should all move together & retract a bit when the pressure is released. If they all act well, now they are out, clean the visible area of the pistons, then open the bleed nipple with a drain hose attached, then push the pistons back, it should only take a gentle pressure, as the old fluid is expelled. If they are stiff, then they need stripped & cleaned, generally if you have used up a complete set of pads they will need stripped & cleaned. It's pointless skimping on this exercise, or you will end up with dragging pads, which will warp the discs. Remember to top up the reservoir as you pump out the next caliper. Have fun.
  6. Comfort on VFR

    I bought a leather cover for my 5th gen & fitted it directly over the existing vinyl cover, this reinforces the seat & the comfort is much better, plus its not slidy like the vinyl was. I've done 300 plus mile days with no rear end stress. Soft seats are not good for riding, they kill the blood suply to your butt, as does a too hard one, I found the stock seat too soft, so better now :) Soft seats lack support & lock you in place, better to get used to your seat, baring in mind that are made stiffer noawadays so they wear in, wher as in the past they were too soft & just got worse over time.
  7. Neat write up on your rebuild. One thing I'd say, is that after that amount of strip down, cleaning & replacement. You didn't do the head bearings !? Which is a known area where the factory skimps on the grease, so even if you didn't replace the OEM bearings, they still have 20 year own hard grease in there !
  8. Chain Mileage

    Internal wear on chains is as per Larry's posts, but he missed a trick, the pin & the bearing wear, so those measurements should be doubled from what you see on the pin. Further more the bearing becomes oblong as it wears as does the pin in the opposite dimension. It's these components that decide how long your chain is & thus the apparent wear. External lubrication only lubes the roller on the outside of each chain link end bearing. The dirt & wear on these determines the slip load wear on the sprockets & the tension on the inner pin is increased when these rollers do NOT slip into the teeth of the sprocket. Thus scot oiler etc by keeping the rollers lubed at the same level ALL of the time, means the dynamic loads applied to the inner pins/bearings are reduced, thus extending the life of the chain. You have to view the WHOLE thing, not anyone component of the chain, even though only one point shows the wear that increases the chains length & thus its service life. Since most larger bikes have rivetted master links, then the old remove, cleaned & measure rarely gets done, because you need to sacrifice a link every time. Most people claiming extreme mileage will find their chain was worn out long ago if they checked them when they removed them. The simple test is the full bend test, that anyone can do. On a clean flat surface roll your new chain out flat in the same plane as it fits on the bike i.e. rollers horizontal. Now hold one end & bend the chain sideways with a light pressure & mark where the other end stops, it won't bend far. This is the NEW chain inner pin/bearing clearance. Now do the same beside it with the old chain, you will find it bends a LONG way further than the new chain, that is the wear since new you have added. Now if you put a rod (screw driver etc) through the end links & pull the chains taught, you will see the extra length of the old chain. IIRC the recommended stretch in a roller chain is around 3% (or 25mm for 530x108) best is 1.5% (12.5mm) or less, the maximum would be 33mm but that's bad. More details here https://www.diamondchain.com/understanding-wear-life/ The manufacturers try to make all links the same, but its rarely the case, so one part of a chain can be worn out whilst the rest is well within spec, if you are really keen, you can break chains & keep the good parts & link them to make a part worn chain, not that I'd recommend it though ;( As always YMMV
  9. The cams are mark FI FE & RI RR (IIRC) for front intake, front exhaust, rear intake, rear exhaust its cast into the body of the cam between the bearing faces. For the timing, use the manual its available to download here. The front & rear banks have their own timing, it onlyt matters that the correct piston is at TDC when you install the cams. Use a soft rod like a wood dowl down the spark plug hole of the required. Have fun.
  10. Pulsating brakes/new pad bed-in procedure

    Pulsing is usually caused by warped discs. Get a dial gauge & raise the front wheel off the ground. Either remove the calipers or push the pads & pistons back so there is NO contact with the discs, the wheel should spin smoothly. Use the dial gauge to measure lateral & circumference runout. There should be next to none. If the discs are bent they can be straightened, if they are heat warped then its simpler to replace them. Ensure the bobbins turn freely, with some tension/resistance. YMMV
  11. The cat does 2 things, 1. it changes some burnt gas hydrocarbons to CO2, this being its primary function. 2. restricts exhaust exit velocity, this is a parasitic loss, the design of the cat usually reduces this as much as possible, but it still obstructs gass flow. If you add the Delkevic system & I assume it was tuned for no O2 sensors, the you don't have to worry about the bike running lean, as without the O2 sensors the ECU defaults to a richer map, so all good there. You only need one of the O2 sensor circuits to have a resistor fitted to turn the Fi light out, or buy a Powercommander O2 eliminator, which just plugs in. You should get a better mid range, a nicer noise & about 5hp increase in peak output. Disable the pair system & do the flapper mod then fit a powercommander & have it mapped & your bike will feel much fitter & should have a much reduced snatch from on/off throttle opening. YMMV
  12. Loosen the LEFT fork bottom axle clamp only ! The right side is the reference one that the axle is clamped to & thus the wheel retained at the correct clearance from the right fork leg. Remember the correct tightening sequence for the front wheel replacement, once all parts are in place, lightly thighten the right fork clamp bolts, to the point you can still just rotate the axle with soem friction in the fork bottom by turning the axle using the cross drilled holes in the left side. Now tighten the axle end bolt to the specified torque. Next tighten the right fork bottom clamp bolts to the correct torque. Lightly tighten the left fork clamp bolts then bounce the suspension to centre the forks & axle, on the last bounce release the load on the fork slowly to full extension & then torque up the left fork clamp bolts. That should leave everything as squre as possible, assuming the yokes are/were correctly alligned. If the bike has ever been dropped even lightly, it may be worth alligning the yokes, but that's another procedure. The problem with sliding calipers is two fold, 1. Only having one set of pistons to pull the back, means the pads have 50% the clearance of opposed piston units. 2. The sliding mechanism can get dirty or corroded & thus fail to self centre the pads on the disc. Remember that 0.7mm is NOT disc to pad clearance, its disc to caliper body ! Normal clearance is less than 0.5mm per side of disc to pad.
  13. Blue VFR

    This Blue one is the fastest 😎
  14. Fuel tank vent

    What Vee-f-ar said, is good. But there are other options. Lift the tank & remove the vent hose. using a small rod measure the length to the top of the tank & make a note. Now get a piece of thin wall SS tube a few mm shorter than the measured length of the correct diameter to just fit in the vent tube. Get some fuel proof adhesive & simply smear the outside of the new tube & insert it until flush with the bottom of the old vent pipe. Leave to harden & job done. Alternately, remove & empty the tank & fit a bolt through replacement vent tube. Either plug the old one or drill out & replace with the bolt through one. Have fun
  15. Ram Air Vfr?

    About 10-15% same as with most bikes, never believe a stock speedo. I've since had the bike up to a real 155mph & it was still accelerating, I had to back off because what I thought of as a smooth road before was not that smooth & the bike was wheelieing off the small crests in the road ! My bike makes 120hp on a known good dyno, so I assume the ramair adds a bit more ! I keep trying to arrange a top speed run to find out how fast it really will go.