Jump to content


Forum Contributor
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Mohawk last won the day on November 11 2016

Mohawk had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

432 Excellent

About Mohawk

  • Rank
    Motorcycle Racing Legend

Profile Information

  • Location
    Bristol, UK
  • In My Garage:
    VFR800Fi Y2K, 120hp, minus 30Kg = VFR800R

Recent Profile Visitors

15,951 profile views
  1. He Chris,


    I wanted to get your thoughts? I broke down, having white connection block between stator and rectifier melted, if soldering would be the best option?



  2. TPS random fault ?

    OK been a while & this kept happening intermittently, to the point it was at least once a week. So I had to change the clutch plates a couple of months back, so bypassed the Rapid Bike ignition pickup. I looped the Rapid Bike connectors together & put the igition pulse output back on the original ECU connector. It has not happened once since so the error appears to be with the Rapid Bike unit. I'll ask Dimsport for some support next week.
  3. Programming a blank HISS key

    Assuming the 2014 & later work the same as the earlier ones, try this video, you need to make a programing lead, but its just 2 wires, one with a resistor. Have fun.
  4. I used to get 130mph indicated out of my 1986 one, no GPS back then :(
  5. That Dyno chart is almost identical to mine from years ago, it made 59hp at the rear wheel, stock apart from K&N filter, plus a Predator stainless 4-1 exhaust. It made better mid range with the snorkel in the airbox.
  6. Proper break in for new motors

    It's all Nuts, every motor build nowadays is wheeled/driven out of the final assembly point & thrown on a dyno & worked through the full rev range in all gears. Some have power measured either everyone or every so many to ensure they are coming off the line with relative power delivery. After that all you need to do is avoid over heating, revving or lugging the engine, just keep it spining freely at all times until it has a few heat cycles & a reasonable mileage on it. The free spinning allows the rings/bores/bearing to bed in. Change the oil & filter at 500-1000 miles, depends if it has cutting or stock oil in it. Job done ride and look after as per service manual. YMMV
  7. Under dressed

    That tyres not insane, a guy I know has one & on the 2500mile eurotour a couple of years back he wore the ROSSO off the edge on both sides & the tyre was practically a slick after that mileage :)
  8. Yeah that's why it floats on water, its not a chemical thing its a mass density thing ! same for oil. Re the R6 test. PB ran a test when the new CBR600RR came out where they hid the bike from the riders & disguised it & made them get on blind folded. They used a track & most riders were faster on the CBR600F4i than on the new RR, but most wanted to own the new RR ! Go figure ;(
  9. Stock on the 5th gen is 17/43, I have used 16/43 & 16/42, but now using 16/45 its much peppier out of the corners & it doesn't add that many extra revs or fuel consumption. It's effective in every gear, as the engine is running more freely at all times, so accelerates hard with a twist of the wrist :) YMMV (literally this time) but I still get 180miles to the tank.
  10. There is no cheap way to do it. I added 25hp to my 5th gen up from stock 95 to 120 now. It took a lot of trial and error, but in the end it's cams, a complete exhaust, my own intake mods, plus a fuel tuning system, Rapid Bike or Powercommander. That little lot new will set you back about $2K. I have about $6K in mine with carbon wheels & lots of Titanium & carbon which has knocked 33Kg out of the dry weight of the bike which is now 177Kg. Search for my mods threads. YMMV
  11. Rearsets for 5th gen.?

    You could always try the adjustable offset peg mounts. They replace the stock foot peg with na adjustable item that can move 360 degrees, moving back up, or forward & down etc. There are some that just do the same to a fixed point. Alternately get a set of stock 5th gen hangers & fabricate a setup that allows any stnadard rearsets to be mounted. Or justride with your toes on the pegs like I do :)
  12. Speedo error

    Almost all bike speedos over read by 5-10% usually nearer 10, but your front sprocket size will have an impact on the speed displayed. Stock front is 17 teeth, many people fit 16tooth front sprocket, that will move your speedo towards 15% over reading. use the gearingcommander site to play with the variables including speedo accuracy. Use GPS to get a base line, the error is normally constant, so if GPS says 50mph & the speedo shows 55mph, then the error is 10% ! have fun, YMMV
  13. The single sided sliding calipers are notorious for drag. Did you compare the before & after ? Pushing pistons back is a bad idea, much better to remove the pads from one caliper at a time & pump the pistons out a bit. You will see if any are sticky by watching how they react to each lever pull, they should all move together & retract a bit when the pressure is released. If they all act well, now they are out, clean the visible area of the pistons, then open the bleed nipple with a drain hose attached, then push the pistons back, it should only take a gentle pressure, as the old fluid is expelled. If they are stiff, then they need stripped & cleaned, generally if you have used up a complete set of pads they will need stripped & cleaned. It's pointless skimping on this exercise, or you will end up with dragging pads, which will warp the discs. Remember to top up the reservoir as you pump out the next caliper. Have fun.
  14. Comfort on VFR

    I bought a leather cover for my 5th gen & fitted it directly over the existing vinyl cover, this reinforces the seat & the comfort is much better, plus its not slidy like the vinyl was. I've done 300 plus mile days with no rear end stress. Soft seats are not good for riding, they kill the blood suply to your butt, as does a too hard one, I found the stock seat too soft, so better now :) Soft seats lack support & lock you in place, better to get used to your seat, baring in mind that are made stiffer noawadays so they wear in, wher as in the past they were too soft & just got worse over time.
  15. Neat write up on your rebuild. One thing I'd say, is that after that amount of strip down, cleaning & replacement. You didn't do the head bearings !? Which is a known area where the factory skimps on the grease, so even if you didn't replace the OEM bearings, they still have 20 year own hard grease in there !