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Mohawk last won the day on November 11 2016

Mohawk had the most liked content!

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About Mohawk

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    Motorcycle Racing Legend
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  • Location
    Bristol, UK
  • In My Garage:
    VFR800Fi Y2K, 120hp, minus 30Kg = VFR800R

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  1. The wear indicator for a chain is useless. Check your rear hub is the correct way up. It should have the axle at the bottom, some people turn it over if they are short of leg.
  2. How many miles on the engine ? Blue smoke = oil burn, on deceleration that is normally valve seals, but thats not guaranteed. Honda engine valve seals are normally good for >100K/miles if engine maintenance is good. That said a friend with a 1200, found one valve rocker & roller lobe badly worn/pitted. Honda UK replaced the parts FOC even though it was out of warranty, he did the work himself. So may be worth a look under the valve cover !
  3. Check both tyres for nails or stones, they make a nice regular noise, but get lost in the cacophony as speed increases !
  4. It's a simple fix, but the parts are expensive from Honda. If you do a search I did a how to replace the lines with braided steel sheathed oil hose, much cheaper & will last the life of the bike. Mine was a 5th gen, your looking at a 6th gen, the details are the same, but the 6th gen cooler is in a different place so will require longer lengths of hose.
  5. Did the new TPS fix this ? I'm having similar issues, but not quite the same. Mine is a 5th gen, on rare occasions it won't rev past 5,500rpm & best I can tell is its in some kind of limp home mode. The ECU does NOT show or record any errors when this happens. It's not really been an issue, as normally all I need to do is stop, turn off, turn on & await the digital display doing its full sweep, then start & off you go. Today it did the same thing but at a very low RPM & approximately 20mph, so was like riding a kangaroo, go 20, stop, go stop go etc which leaving a traffic light was less than ideal ! So any ideas what this could be ? I went through all the connectors over the winter in the loom & all appears to be in good order. Thanks for your thoughts.
  6. ^^^^^^^^^ What he said. They all do it, some feel it more & that could be down to tolerance variance in the parts build, some bikes have close to blue print spec & some are right at the tolerance limits which may be why some feel more vibration than others.
  7. Never mind the coating I'd be more worried about that ECU being exposed to road crap & spray from the tyre during rain etc.
  8. I think you will find like all this garbage, it's eco noise reduction nonsense & nothing more. The manufacturers try to sex it up, but if it did what they claim they would have appeared Year said before the noise regs forced them on us !!!!!
  9. Sounds like the secondary intake flapper valve opening & closing ! Disable it & then no noise :)
  10. Change everything except the ECU. There are no gains in the old ECU & it will not support the auto choke function of the 00-01 models. The rest will be a straight swap. The O2 sensors on the 01 model can be dropped. Just need to add a 330ohm resistor to one of the O2 power circuits. It would be best to get the PC3 mapped on a dyno, its costs about £150, but well worth the effort, to make the most of your other mods. Your map may work fine, but you will never know unless you check ! There is a lot of wrong thinking about the O2 sensors, they operate in very specific areas of the rev/load range. These being at idle & at steady cruise ONLY. So getting rid of them just costs you fuel. But if you fool one O2 circuit into believing its sending power to a sensor via the resistor mentioned above, it keeps the Fi warning light out. When the bike reaches temp & other measurements to allow the ECU to activate the O2 sensor readings & none are forthcoming the ECU goes into default slightly rich map. It logs a fault in the ECU for each failed O2 sensor, but the light stays out on the dash ! I had mine custom tuned on the semi-stock exhaust with the sensors in, but they are now gone & replaced with a wideband self learning RapidBike racing module. I made up a harness to tap the original O2 power feeds to supply the wideband sensor so don't need the resistor !
  11. I've had one for 4.5 years & 12,000 miles, it's still perfect. I have the race unit with remote reservoir, that is 5 way adjustable. 1-Preload 2-Length 3-High speed compression 4-Low speed compression 5-Rebound It was built for my bike, my weight & my intended riding style, i.e. fast road riding. It works beautifully, I have toured all over Europe in some hot days with no fading. It did a track day last year after returning from Europe on a 33c day, which is rare in the UK, it coped better than me or the rest of the bike, with no fading or loss of damping ! I can highly recommend them.
  12. Just fit a VF750F or a CBR600F2 front end, all the benefits, no drawbacks & leave the rear stock or match with a 750/600 rear wheel/brakes.
  13. Remember that Honda's criteria, will be the same as the race bike, i.e. flat out use. If used hard on track then see how it goes, but if used on the road, regular oil changes should keep it ticking along nicely. Even if used on track, just keep the revs down from silly RPM & it will last much longer. Even so, it will need torn down often to check bearing surfaces etc. It's a bit of a white rabbit, when compared to the Ducati V4 or Panigale if you stick to that schedule, the thing would be worn out in a couple of years just from the teardowns.
  14. If you can't get the plumbers strips, then good old emery paper will do, it's cloth based, so tears into strips easily, but won't tear when in use. Remember to degrease the bright work when finished before painting. Best to run the engine briefly to warm the pipes after degreasing then paint whilst warm, the paint will flash dry quickly on a warm clean surface !
  15. Sorry CR, but setting the ignition advance to ZERO is the only way to rule it out. The map was made on a Euro spec Vtec, that may or may not be compatible with any individual engine. So working around it is a bad idea. Just MO, YMMV