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Mohawk

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Mohawk last won the day on November 11 2016

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About Mohawk

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    Motorcycle Racing Legend
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  • Location
    Bristol, UK
  • In My Garage:
    VFR800Fi Y2K, 120hp, minus 30Kg = VFR800R

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  1. If you can't get the plumbers strips, then good old emery paper will do, it's cloth based, so tears into strips easily, but won't tear when in use. Remember to degrease the bright work when finished before painting. Best to run the engine briefly to warm the pipes after degreasing then paint whilst warm, the paint will flash dry quickly on a warm clean surface !
  2. Sorry CR, but setting the ignition advance to ZERO is the only way to rule it out. The map was made on a Euro spec Vtec, that may or may not be compatible with any individual engine. So working around it is a bad idea. Just MO, YMMV
  3. As the Dude says, if you have both bikes, then ride them back to back & see how they feel. The 99 model 49 state bike should be ridden first, this will set the baseline, then if the CA bike does not match that even with more time in the saddle, you will have your answer. The CA bike definately has different cams & ECU, plus less power than the 49 state bike.
  4. I replaced my 5th gen one with a nice carbon one, you may be able to find one for the 6th & 8th gens too 😀
  5. Well you might be lucky, my old 1986 VF500F2 with 54,000 miles on it made 59rwhp on PDQ's dyno back in 2003 :) It had a Predator Exhaust + K&N air filter, running on CBR600 wheels & a Hagon shock. I replaced it with a CBR600F4, which would easily out handle it, but just didn't have the sole nor the flexible V4 engine. I don't know why, but you never seem to be in the wrong gear on a V4 :) PS it produced more power with the snorkel in the airbox, than out, but the noise with it out was amazing.
  6. If you want to swap from 5th to 6th setup, then you need a 6th gen front right caliper, the delay valve on the right fork, you can compare them using online fiche/parts pics.
  7. The one thing you missed is that the VFR SSA is actually NO heavier than the CBR units, because the VFR has that massive 3 piston caliper & the massaive disk to go with it, 270x5mm compared to the CBR's 220x4mm. These components alone make that 8lb difference. But the CBR600RR is a fully triangulated braced swingarm, which is much stiffer for the same weight. But that only matters when flat out on a race track, as the VFR arm is stiffer than many give it credit for. the CBR can carry a passenger, but the VFR was engineered TO carry a passenger & luggage plus the arm was originally designed for the RC45 so its pretty stiff. I'd love to see a fluid dynamics cad stress model of the various arms out there. SSA = super cool look, plus easy wheel changes :) Gets my vote.
  8. The chain guide above the cams should stop the chain jumping the sprocket but you should always set rear bank TDC BEFORE removing the tensioner. It is unlikely to have jumped teeth, but you may have allowed the cams to rotate forward creating slack in the pull side of the chain. The CCT does NOT have enough tension to reset the cams to their original position. When you then turned the engine over, the slack would get taken up first without moving the cams, then the cams get dragged around a number of degree LATE which could cause piston to valve interaction which is bad. The shop manual definitely says set to TDC for 3T on page 8-14 last picture , before releasing the CCT tension for camshaft removal. The rear bank has the cam pulse sensor which is used to determine which cylinder in coming to TDC on a firing cycle that may explain the no start. If it was in the correct place, then the front 2 cylinders would fire regardless of what the rear pair were doing.
  9. Are you sure you connected the ignition sender ? it comes out of the top of the clutch cover ? Likewise is the cam pulse sensor connected ? its attached to the rear head. Also the Map sensor on the rear of the airbox ? Not sure what version of HISS you have, the only one I'm aware of has a sensor rong around the ignotion barrel to detect a chip in the key. The neutral light & Fi light should come on when key is turned to on as part of a self test. The bike should not crank when the kill switch is off & no Fi light. Flick kill switch on & the Fi light should come on as the fuel pump primes etc.
  10. The info on the CBS or LBS is correct 5th gen front lever activates 4 pistons, 2 per front caliper. The left side secondary master then rotates & activates one rear piston. The rear pedal activate 2 rear pistons & 2 front pistons via the pressure ballance valve under the rear of the tank & the delay valve on the front right fork leg, which delays the pressure increase to the front right then front left piston, this is to stop the front secondary master increasing the rear braking force immediately & to stop the front from loading up instantly when trailing the rear brake. The system requires sufficient rear pressure before the balance valve opens & allows pressure to the front, the delay at the front keeps everything balanced. If you use the front & rear brake lever/pedal at the same time the 5th gen has impressive brakes. The fronts on their own are quite weak, but I did like the secondary keeping the rear inline for you automatically, I'd happily have the 4-pot front brakes I have now with the same secondary master working one rear piston :) On the 6th gen they simplified the system & restored the balance to closer to a normal unlinked bike. So the front lever gives you 5 of the 6 pistons at the front & the secondary master gives you one rear piston. The rear pedal gives 2 rear pistons & via the balance valve 1 front piston. I tried delinking both front calipers on my 5th gen using a CBR600F4 M/C to activate all 6 front pistons & whilst the braking was better than stock front lever only, it was nowhere near as good as the 4-pot Nissins I use now, nor as good as the stock setup using the front lever & rear pedal together. I'm just not used to touching the rear brake other than for trail control or during very heavy braking, so I replaced the whole brake system front & rear to a normal setup. The calipers on these bikes are quality units they are fully anodized inside & out, so very resistent to corrosion. The piston dust seals are fitted dry at the factory & this leads to crud working under them & causing drag on the pistons, plus people always fail to maintain this very dirty area of the bike. Regular cleaning with brake cleaner once a year will keep them in good order & use some silicone grease to seal the dust seals which keeps the crud & water out of their groove. Use the proper lube for the sliding pins & rubber boots to avoid binding. YMMV
  11. Regarding the overheating, mine was getting quite bad last year when the temperatures were up. I just stripped the rads off yesterday & left them soaking in some mild acid to clean the dirt off overnight. I tried a water flow test & the left rad would hardly flow at all. So I gave them a caustic dip & the amount of crud that came out of both explains the overheating. Any way new air ducting & fans will be fitted as I put it back together.
  12. Do you get freezing conditions in Georgia ? I assume not, so the best coolant mix should be based on the MINIMUM temperature you are likely to encounter. See the chart below, work out your bikes minimum temperature. For instance my garage is attached to the house & the minimum temp even in cold spells is about 5C, so if the bike never goes out in the winter, then a 20/80% antifreeze/water mix will protect it down to -8C. Which is way below the temps the bike will experience when wrapped up for the winter. Just remember to start & warm thew engine before riding if you decide to take it for a sly winter spin & don't leave it outside if the temperature may get below zero degrees. More water = better cooling, use distilled water to get the best cooling effect & to reduce contamination in the cooling circuit. If you find any light alloy corrosion in an engines cooling system, you can run it on flat diet Coke or your own light acid mix (50/50 water & vinegar is good) do a few heat cycles in the engine, then flush the whole system before adding your chosen percentage antifreeze/distilled water mix. You can read more here https://hellafunctional.com/?p=629 YMMV or maybe YTMV (Your Temps May Vary :)
  13. Open the secondary bleed nipple for that piston with a blled hose on it & use a large flat blade screw driver between the pads, twist it to force the piston back. If this does not move it, then you have something wrong with it, like Phil said it may be cocked at the end of the bore. Hot tip, get some 4-5mm alloy plate, cut 3 strips about 30mm wide and 50mm longer than the caliper, drill a 6-8mm hole at either end. When you remove a caliper, immediately place a strip between the pads & use the holes to tie it in place across the back of the caliper. Now never have the problem again ! YMMV
  14. Hey Phil, How goes the modified VFR 5/6th gen ? Did you ever get a DJ dyno run done ?