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mk2davis

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mk2davis last won the day on January 8 2015

mk2davis had the most liked content!

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About mk2davis

  • Rank
    World Superbike Racer
  • Birthday

Profile Information

  • Location
    Ventura, CA
  • In My Garage:
    '91 VFR750
    '01 NSR150SP
    '93 NSR250SP

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  1. I've had luck cleaning the inside, mating surface of the float needle with blue magic and a q tip. Makes it all shiny and smooth. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
  2. I think I had the Shindegen FH020AA. After eating OEM style ones like candy, I got 40k miles out of the Shindegen when I sold the bike. And I cannot recommend the VFRness enough. I got another full volt when I converted over from stock wiring, and the reading were much more stable.
  3. That's a sharp looking bike! Side cases are tough. I always used soft bags, and that seemed to work. Regarding the r/r, I replaced mine with the shindegen and a VFRness from Tightwad (he's a member on the forum), along with a voltmeter that's wired to the battery through a switched relay. Test your current r/r first, and if it's good, keep that in a saddlebag for cheap insurance. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
  4. I'm not saying anyone's suggestion is inaccurate, because I would tend to come to the same conclusion. But to play the devil's advocate, in your initial post, you said it seem to come from the front end. So I'm wondering if you've tried rotating the front wheel while on the center stand. I hate it when I spend good money only to not solve the issue. It could be bearing? I would describe a front bearing issue differently, but still worth 5 minutes... Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
  5. I should have mentioned this earlier, but the abs is why I decided to get the the 6th gen. Whatever you decide, I can't recommend a VFRness from Tightwad enough along with an onboard voltmeter. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
  6. I can't help with the steering damper, I've only mounted linear ones on my nsr. Regarding it's proclivity to dive, have you thought about a heavier weight fork oil? Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
  7. I had a 3rd gen, now have a 6th, and my brother has a 5th (99?). I do miss my GDC's, although the chassis and suspension are no doubt better on the 6th. I love having hard bags on the 6th, which makes touring so much easier. I don't think you can go wrong with any of them. I got 88k miles on the 6th, and never an issue. I will say, I'm still a little jealous of the GDC'S on my brother's. The VTEC and the linked brakes have never been a concern for me. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
  8. Vanion2: I do in fact have a 6th gen. I should have stated that previously. I will look and see what I can see, thanks for the guidance
  9. They are light enough, i figure why not?!? Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
  10. About a month ago a lovely young lady helped me customize some bodywork (clutch side) with her Prius. After doing some creative ABS bodywork, everything is fine except my tach doesn't work. When I say everything else is fine, I mean solid voltage at the battery (onboard voltmeter reading 14.2-14.3 as always), no FI light, speedo works, fuel gauge works, blinkers, haven't tested the horn yet, so far (and this is after about 12 miles of errands) everything is behaving as expected. Except . . . the tach. It would jump around under deceleration, would be pretty solid under acceleration. This was first the first few miles. After that, it to would stay at 0. It did have a bit of activity at the end of my journey for a few seconds. A bump lured it into action for a brief moment, and then back to zero. It acts for the all the world like I have a bad tach cable. But I don't have any tach cable. So I'm guessing a pinched and unhappy wire? What should I be looking for? Color and location. Oh, and no pressure, tomorrow I'm riding to SLO, and then up to Monterey, and then Sacremento, and then home. Rain is in the forecast, so speeds will be "prudent", but it would be nice to have things working right. I travel with butt connectors and strippers, so any help any time is appreciated.
  11. It does. That's the exact set up I have right now. I had to drill a mounting hole for the givi plate to mount my box, but two more holes, one for each side, and your done. My givi box (forgot the size) does eat into my mpg, but it's awesome for touring. To usually don't mount it for in city stuff. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
  12. Do you have a way to test your fuel pressure? From what I've read, stock is 36psi. And a place called Turbocity is supposed to sell a modified FPR that ups pressure to about 42psi, helping to alleviate low rpm snatchiness. I have zero experience, this is just what I have read. I'm inclined to think that something is encouraging your bike to dump all that fuel at low rpm, like a bad sensor. It thinks your running in the artic. I know you tested IAT. Would a break in the O2 sensor wiring cause rich or lean condition? Since you have eliminated the sensors themselves, you may want to test the harness.
  13. You got the part number, Google is your friend!
  14. PICS! We need Pics. 1- If it's easy, why not do the fuel filter? If it's not easy, I wouldn't make an effort. If it aint broke . . . 2- My 3rd gen ran VERY cold all the time. Changing t-stat did not do a damn thing. I don't know if 4th gen is different. Don't know about interchangeability, but online sourced t-stat cost me $8? Maybe 10. And since it doesn't seem like your in a rush, that maybe an option.
  15. I've looked at that site, fastenal, boltdepot.com (which has great prices otherwise). The closest I have found is from McMaster Carr, but they are rectangular and not square, and don't quite look OEM..