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About jeremyr62

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    Factory Team Rider

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  1. VF500F silicone rad hoses

    I wondered how you had managed it. Those blue ones look good. The Dutch site mentioned above is CMSNL.COM
  2. Valve adjustment

    In this the manual is accurate. You can't get the alternator cover off without removing the gearbox sprocket cover off.
  3. Troubleshooting Vf500f

    So you get snow where you live then? Nice bike too..
  4. Yes, it's a bugger to shift. All I can suggest is two persons, one to hold a very stout piece of wood and target the area on the collector between the two rear ports and the other to hit the other end with the biggest lump mallet/sledge hammer you can find. When I did mine I was on my own and managed to hit my hand with the sledge. I now have a nice permanent bump on the bones near my wrist. I assume I broke a bone and it has knitted together imperfectly leaving the bump. And it hurt. A lot.
  5. I would definitely try to loosen the headers from the "new" collector. I would have thought they would come out OK with some twisting action,. penetrating oil and plenty of heat applied to area.That way you can leave the existing rear headers attached to the engine. The other reason is if you have to remove again for whatever reason(1), at least you know it is possible to loosen them. (1) Like repainting the collector box every two years for example. I have had no trouble getting the collector off since.
  6. Stop dodging the issue and start battering the collector box.
  7. If you take the rear sprocket cover off it gives much better access to the rear left exhaust clamp nuts/studs. Another suggestion is to try to bend out the 4 tines around which the clamp fits. Not easy but that way you can reduce the clamping force/break the "weld" and get penetrating oil into it. Having said that I tried all these things and it still needed the swingarm removing and a 3.1kg sledgehammer to shift it (and destroy it).
  8. Not impossible to find on Ebay but finding a decent one is hard enough. Getting them off can be incredibly difficult IME. I managed to completely ruin a half decent example trying to separate it from the two rear down pipes. I ended up using a sledge hammer beating on a stout piece of wood down through the frame near the rear shock. Ended up splitting the steel of the balance box. The painted one in the picture I bought on Ebay.com about 5 years ago, and it came from the US where the climate seems much more forgiving. Most of the UK/Europe ones are lumps of iron oxide. If you can get it off in one piece it might be worth seeing if it can be cleaned up and welded. Although it looks pretty thin around the holes.
  9. That's a coincidence. I was painting mine just this weekend to try to stave off what has happened to yours.
  10. 1986 VFR750 - should I buy it?

    Yes so true. It can be scary adding up what you spend on projects like these. However if the the fun is in the work then it's still cheap in my opinion.
  11. I have the same 30mm VD41A carbs in my 86 F2 UK model.. If they haven't been messed with they will have a #38 slow jet in all, #95 front main jets, #92 rear mains and a 3JV needle in all. The non removable pilot jet will be #42.in all.
  12. His bike has better top end than mine whatever his rear tyre size. I run 17 inch wheels. I have been messing with 30 and 32mm carbs, swapping engines in and out and changing rear ( and soon front) sprocket sizes but never seen anything like 193km/h. However, if you don't get fixated on top speed my bike is very nice to ride through the gears. It just runs out of puff at the top end. I will hopefully home in on a good compromise of engine/carb settings/tyre size and gearing.
  13. Is your VF500 running on stock 15T gearbox sprocket and 43T rear sprocket?
  14. Track day Sunday, Ebay Monday. That was my experience too :-(
  15. Well done for documenting this. On the exhaust studs. They are the same. They are all studs, and they all come out. You just had one out and one in.Sometimes the stud comes out and sometimes just the nut comes off.