Duc2V4

Maybe this will help

Typically I'm a Shoei wearer (Currently a GT-Air2) but over the past few years I ventured out to other makes. Schuberth was my first step into both another make but also into a modular helmet. I bought the C3, then the C3 Pro, I skipped the C4 and C5 and went with the AGV Tour Modular. In between that, I also bought the Schuberth SR1, and found a screaming deal on the SR2, so I bought that model too. These two were my track day helmets and the SR1 proved to be a great helmet but ultimately sacrificed itself for me in a high speed crash at the track. I actually came out pretty unscathed, other than a dislocated pinky and torn up gear, I came away walking upright and no limping. Along this time frame, I saw and fell in love with an AGV K5S and bought it on the spot. I know, I know, get to the point D! Other than the first C3, which had a little "hot spot" in the forehead area, which broke in after a few weeks of riding in it almost daily, all of the helmets had a very snug fit. They still do, but they're slowly getting more "wiggle" room but not enough to feel unsafe. My daily helmet is the AGV Tour Modular and the street/sport helmet is the K5S, and off and on I'll go back to the Shoei. But if I'm being honest, I really prefer the AGV helmets over the Shoei now. For some of the same reasons mentioned above, light weight and great field of view. If/when a helmet feels a but too tight, I'll wear it around the house for a while and see if I start to feel fatigued or if I stop noticing the feeling. One of my Shoei helmets, which I bought online, was like that. I was at that time, was in between sizes, so I went with the smaller size but immediately new I went in the wrong direction. I wore the helmet in the house for about 15 minutes and new by that time, it was the incorrect size. Returned it and got the next size up. Still snug but not overly tight. Anyway, I hope this was helpful.

If you are still in need of an ignition, I have a 3 piece set, Ignition, gas cap and helmet lock/seat release, meaning one key for all three. Not sure what year it's from but I can look into it and see if I can get something off of it to tell for sure. Maybe you can take a picture of the connector end of the ignition wire, so I can see what the connector looks like.

Well, after roughly six months of being able to ride again, primarily commuting, no "real" ride yet, but hey, at least I'm able to ride...or am I? Had another little hurdle thrown at me, hand surgery. Seems my left hand suffered from "trigger finger". For the most part, my hand worked like normal except when I used it in a fist for grabbing something. Essentially, it would "lock up" on me, and it was difficult to straighten my hand back out. Ironically, riding a bike and working the clutch didn't seem to be affected by this, so that was the good part. So last Tuesday I had it operated on. Figured it wasn't going to get better on it;s own, so I went forward with the surgery. I had two options, option 1, full anesthesia, option 2, local numbing and be wide awake. Well, after my "other" operation, I felt fully comfortable being awake for this one, especially since that was an option. So that's the route I took, numb the hand, and operate away. Much like my other surgery, the afterward was uneventful and believe it or not no pain! None, not even a little ache. There is some discomfort when making a fist, which is encouraged, well, at least to move my hand like normal as much as possible. That to me was expected, as the affected area was a bit swollen and I did have a sutured wound. Although I technically still ride in this current state, I am encourage to not ride until at least 2 weeks from the surgery date, so not a 9 month wait like the last one. So with dealing with a bunch of "life" stuff and work, I at least have stuff to occupy my time, and it's already been a week, so this time things seem to be moving faster at least. On another positive note, I helped a friend of a friend acquire a 98 5 Gen for $2,900.00! It was listed and was located about 10 miles from me so I went to check it out and if he didn't want it, I was going to buy it! Well, he ended up buying it and I helped him get it freshened up, as it had been sitting for a few months. There was few little pieces that needed attention, that I was able to fix/resolve for him and while he and I were talking, he tells me that not only is he a ski and snow board instructor, he also does motorcycle training. Well, needless to say, we became fast friends! I agreed to help out on a few other things and he said he would give me some one on one rider training, so I took him up on that the Saturday before my surgery. Let's just say, although my street skills are good, I can definitely use some "training" time, I am a little bit rusty after not riding for a while. Oh yeah, prior that Saturday morning we went to the 'Cars and Coffee' at the American Honda HQ in Torrance, CA. Anyway, good to be alive folks! IMG_3358.MOV.mp4

Another find I found in the stuff sfdownhill left behind. Looking at Dyno Jet's website, it shows this version is for the 6 Gen, so if buying for your 5 Gen, double check with Dyno Jet. My recollection is that it will work, but my memory is a bit more "fuzzy" post brain surgery! Asking $200 USD plus shipping for the PCIII and the battery cable adapter.

I was able to download the RB software from their website. I don't recall if I had to provide a serial number or not. Message me, I have an install file from Dec 2023, if you still need/want it. D

Long story short, I inherited this 2 Bros can setup. The carbon cans are not in the most ideal shape and from what I recall the person I obtained it from was going to replace the carbon fiber can parts with fresher units, but that never came to fruition. The "stash" part of the system had one of the rings removed, but it can be riveted back in place easily enough. There is a set of keys to the "stash" can, so it can be used as intended. I'm asking for $200 USD for it, plus shipping from Anaheim, CA.

It is surprisingly easy. All the mounting points line right up. There are 2 things that you would have to deal with, there's a sensor on the 6 Gen that's in the center of the 'V' that you need to retain on the 6 Gen wiring harness and dealing with the Coil-On-Plugs. The latter, you can get adapter mounts from fellow VFRD member Sebspeed. These allow you to bolt the COPs onto the 5 Gen engine. However, this does require removing the PAIR valve system, so you can use the mounts where the PAIR valve covers would bolt to the motor. PAIR block off plates would be needed for that task. As for the sensor, the wires are long enough for you to bolt the sensor to the side of the frame, so even that isn't really a big issue. No need to change the ECU either.

Welcome aboard! These are really great machines, I have an 01 and an 09 and both do great for both fun and commuting purposes. I put over 100k miles on my 09 doing the touring/commuting thing and it's still going, although I did end up swapping out the cam chain driven VTEC engine for a 5 Gen gear driven cam engine, Otherwise it was typical maintenance to keep her going.

I actually have 2 VFRs, a 5 Gen and a 6 Gen. I set them up slightly different and for two specific purposes. My 5 Gen is setup for sport/track riding and my 6 Gen for touring/commuting. When I first set them up, the first thing I concentrated on was suspension. For the 5 Gen, I went with a fully adjustable rear shock and added rebound adjusters to the forks. Again, this is for my sport riding intentions. Though I initially kept the rear passenger pegs for my wife, she didn’t care for riding on this bike. But for me, it is great on the track and on canyon roads. On the 6 Gen, more closely related to the 8 Gen 2014 model, I went with a more ergonomic approach and tailored the suspension to touring and commuting. There I added a remote preload adjustable shock, due to my varying cargo I might haul and the on and off my wife being a passenger. With the top case (with back rest) my wife finds it a lot more comfortable. The ergonomics part, I installed Heli-bars, which have a higher rise and more shift towards the rider. This along with a touring wind screen made the ride much more comfortable for me too. All that said, I’ve ridden both bikes at the track and on canyon roads and both are very capable in those situations. Once the suspension was upgraded, I turned my focused on other “performance” upgrades but with just the suspension upgrades, both bikes became much more enjoyable. I hope this was helpful. Cheers, D

I have 2 VFRs, a 5 Gen (01) and a 6 Gen (09), both currently run cat-less and with the O2 sensors still installed. Prior to putting on the “WyLD” headers (on both bikes), I ran 98-99 model headers on both for a short spell. I had O2 bungs installed so that I could use the auto tune feature of the Rapid Bike tuning module, which requires the sensors to be installed. Although the 98-99 headers are slightly different, in a couple of ways, one, the primaries are lager, the other is that the front primaries do not cross over, like the later models. Not sure how this affects exhaust flow but I had not noticed any issues running them on either bike when I had them installed. Alternatively, you can use O2 bypass devices, essentially resistors on the O2 leads and that go back to the wiring harness and that should keep any FI errors from showing up. These would be used with headers that do not have the O2 bungs on them. You can get them from Dyno-Jet still, if you want to go that route, or make your own. I’m sure there’s a video or link to a video on this forum on how to do that. All that said, I might actually still have the 98-99 headers that I had on my 5 Gen still laying around the garage. If you’re interested in those, send me a PM and I’ll go look and see if I still have them.

Welcome aboard!

Just to let you know, I worked with AS3 and another Hawk owner member from the FB Hawk group and got them to build silicone coolant hoses for the Hawk family of bikes. Should be available very soon.

Will do, may not be able to get to it until March, work will have me traveling this month. I want to have him bring it to my place so I can have a better and longer go at with all my tools at my disposal. Definitely chime in once I get a chance to look at it closer.

Any resolution on this issue? I went to see if I could help a fellow 5 Gen owner with the same issue. I tried looking/listening for air leaks but the bike wasn't at my place to do a more thorough go through. I took the wax unit out of the equation (adjusted it to not effect the idle), just to see if it was the culprit and although it seemed to keep the RPMs down, the problem still exist. I want to bring the bike to my place to have a better and more thorough look but thought I'd check in here first. My gut says air leak but until I can "strip the part off the heads to get a better inspection, thought I'd look on the forum first.