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Duc2V4 last won the day on November 19 2016

Duc2V4 had the most liked content!

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About Duc2V4

  • Rank
    Race Team Owner
  • Birthday 04/25/1966

Profile Information

  • Location
    Anaheim, California
  • In My Garage:
    2002 Audi A4,1995 Ducati 900SS SP, 2001 VFR800 and 2009 VFR800.

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  1. 1986 Vfr Track Bike Out Of Parts

    Damn! Looks great. Love to see video of it in action.
  2. Replace CCT, Fuel Filter, Fuel Pump, etc?

    I found that using the Mighty-Vac is only useful when filling empty lines and that once the lines are full, a normal bleed process is what works best. With speed bleeders, the Mighty-Vac doesn't work at all, you need to push the fluid through the lines still, as the check valve requires more pressure than you should be using with the Mighty-Vac. Having done the bleed process many times, for both 5 and 6 Gens, I think I just become accustomed to the odd bleeding process. I also installed speed bleeders on all my bikes so it does make it a little easier when working solo.
  3. Replace CCT, Fuel Filter, Fuel Pump, etc?

    Just to be clear, the front brake bleed is independent of the “linked” part of the system. The only part of the front that creates the link is the secondary master cylinder. This is actually part of the rear brake system and is unaffected by what you do at the front. As mentioned, the Honda Service manual describes not only how to bleed the system but how it functions. Once you see how it operates, understanding the bleed process is clearer. Although having an extra body to help pump and hold the brake lever/SMC makes it much easier, it can be done solo but is NOT an easy task. Speed bleeders though, do make it a lot easier when doing the job solo.
  4. 6th Gen Refresh

    If you need a long screwdriver, Harbor Freight has some on the cheap. 22” Long screwdriver set Before I went and grabbed the long screwdriver, I was using a1/4 inch drive ratchet with a few extensions and a was able to reach the farthest clamp but it was a little difficult keeping the end steady as the slight amount of play where the extensions joined would sometimes bump hoses or just make the tip just a bit offline.
  5. Yes, on the MC. Return hole may not be the proper name but it is essentially where the fluid flows in and out of the MC. It’s easy to see it and see it work when dealing with the front brake MC. It’s right in the middle of the MC “coffin” and has a splash guard right above it. The rear MC should work in the same manner but might be harder to see it in action. Another item to check is the proportioning valve. Did you bleed through that as well? How was the old fluid when you started the bleeding process? There have been some members who have had fluid that was congealed and essentially needed to pull the whole system apart to clean out the old fluid, or what was once fluid.
  6. If you’re 100% certain that the pistons are clean, the return hole is not clogged, then check the spring clip that sits between the edge of the pads and the caliper. The longer section of the clip should be where the pad that moves sits. I.e. The piston side of the caliper. The short end goes under the stationary pad. It’s part #13 in this parts fiche...Rear caliper parts fiche
  7. Welcome aboard! As far as the broken stud question, if I read that right, the stud broke off at the outer thread (where the nut goes) and not at the cylinder head, so you should be able to get a pair of locking pliers on the remaining bit and be able to turn the stud out. That being said, some kind of penetrating oil should be put on the stud and possibly heat the case area around the stud as this should help with extraction. Of course if using a flammable solution, a heat gun vice a flame type of heat source should be used. I used OEM studs and nuts for my 5 Gen header replacement. In regard to suspension, there are many options there but personally I would seek a suspension tuner and see if they can refresh both the shock and forks for you. Quite a few of us here in the states use Jamie Daugherty (DMr) to revamp our suspension. I'm sure there is a reputable place near you but you're always welcome to talk to Jamie as he may still be a cost effective solution for you. The Key to suspension is getting it tuned to your weight and riding type you'll be doing with the bike. I can say, whether you're just commuting/touring or full on sport/track riding, a customized suspension will change the bike dramatically for the better.
  8. Rear Wheel Lug Nuts - Source?

    My recollection is that these are the same as found on some of the Honda cars. One member had grabbed some off of eBay, I believe and they worked out just fine. I recall buying 2 sets of black lug nuts from a member here as well but I'd have to go through my PMs to see if I can find the info as to where he got them from. Otherwise, I do have the chrome OEM ones if you're interested in them. Like the PMs though, I'd have to go dig them up as well.
  9. Being a lane splitter, I prefer to have mirrors that don't widen the width of the bike. On my 900SS, the mirrors are almost worthless unless I pull may elbows/arms against my body. Much prefer to do this when I need to than risk taking someones side view mirror out or scratching the side of the car...unless the person is being an A$$, then I'd welcome the wider stance!
  10. Tire advice for 5th gen

    Did I hear my name?...Yeah, I much prefer the PP3 front over the PR fronts and based on the past few mixed combo sets, the PP3s actually give me the same mileage that I get out of the PR rear! Right now I’m track riding my 5 Gen and just bought a Pilot RS set and like them a lot. Most likely, the next set for my 6 Gen will be a PRS front with a PR5 rear! Not that I use the 6 Gen for sport riding a lot, I have been know to give it go on the twisty stuff and keep a good pace. I think the PP3 gives me a better feeling than the PR fronts ever did, I also trust them more and so I worry less about over extending the front, which gives me more confidence in the corners.
  11. Congratulations Lee!
  12. Where Are The SoCal Rides?

    You know I would be in, if it weren't for my track day plans...Have a good ride guys!
  13. I sourced a lot of different bearings from here... http://www.123bearing.com i was able to source different bearings from tapered steering head bearings, front wheel bearings to just about all of a 6 gen swingarm bearings for less than OEM. Only one swingarm bearing was cheaper from Honda, I don’t recall which one though. They carry SKF, Nachi, Timken, Koyo, NSK, NTN, FAG, to name a few.
  14. I get what you are saying and personally, if I accept that it is possible and not inevitable, then I can actually keep the thought out of my head and thus it not become an inevitably. This goes along with the “Look where you want to go and not where you are going”.
  15. If the fluid is escaping out of the caliper, it might be best to rebuild that caliper. However, it is also possible that the return hole in the master cylinder is plugged or blocked a bit. I'd check that BTW, have you inspected the front wheel bearings and ruled the bearings out?