Skids

WD40 cleaned them up very quickly.

Thanks guys. Sore but crutches help. My son is a physiotherapist too, do that's handy.

What a muppet! Pulling out of a t-junction on the Crossrunner this morning, no traffic around, bike just starting to move and I clearly didn't feed her enough revs and she stalls. Was already steering right so big judder as bike stops and over she goes. I stuck my leg out to try and stop her but no chance. Minor damage, the Givi crash bars saved £000's of damage, scratches on the bars, top box and mirror. A m8 came and rode her home so she's in my garage. Meanwhile I was in an ambulance with a torn hamstring. Could be worse, Moto GP and European Champions Cup rugby quarter finals this weekend and the doc said I have to take it easy, keep my leg elevated! What a muppet though!

That's a short trip to the local shops for some of our colonial cousins across the pond!

Tom, whereabouts in the UK do you live? I have a Carbtune I use to balance the SVs which you are welcome to borrow or when you have her running properly, ride round and do it.

You don't necessarily have to have the fans or speed limiter adjusted if you have the ECU flashed, that's the beauty of the procedure you can choose what to alter and by how much.

Don't blame you m8, I'd be angry too if I'd wasted so much time trying help someone else out. Trouble is, this may deter all those of you who offer their immense knowledge and time from stepping in to help others - well done n3n3 (where's the wanker emoji?)

Judging by those other bikes you mention, not sure why you looked at a VFR. Whatever you choose, best wishes for it.

Well, I think the prize goes to Presson. I removed the airbox and was looking to take the wax unit apart but then thought I'd just give it a proper warm through first whilst the tank was raised and with much of the gubbins out of the way so I could watch it and it looked like the piston/rod was sticking so I sprayed it with WD40, moved it around by hand a little then tried again and it idles fine when warm. I have yet to take her out on the road to try her out but that will have to wait. Balanced SVs whilst I was there too. Can folk confirm this is the correct way now we all realised we were doing it wrong for 20-odd years? So thanks Presson, much obliged!

Miguel, we all have our own, often busy lives to lead. Dropping some $ into VFRD every year is not necessarily at the front of our minds when we look in (daily for some of us) and it takes something to make us remember/realise that lots goes on behind the scenes and this place does not run itself for free so PLEASE, do not feel bad about reminding us all that you need a small contribution from each of us. The wealth of knowledge on here is immense, the greatest repository of knowledge on the Honda VFR in the world so we should all be happy to contribute voluntarily. Thanks for all you do to keep this place running. So many of us owe you a beer or 2 on top of our small contributions! Cheers.

Hi Skids, Thank you for your donation of 25.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

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Me too but it does highlight just how good even an ageing VFR can be.

I know all my VFRs are way more capable than me and happy to keep it that way. 😆

Thanks fuzzy. Thing is the bike ran fine last summer, albeit only a couple of hundred miles, after I changed the coolant.🤔

Yes, anecdotally from rider reports. 06+ models introduced the staged VTEC points, approx 6800rpm on acceleration, 6400rpm on deceleration. They could still be quite harsh though.

I had a '98 5th Gen for several years and 130k miles, an '08 6th Gen for 79k miles and have had 2 Mk2 VFR800X Crossrunners (same engine as 14+ VFR800F) for 50k miles so I do feel qualified to to have an opinion on them wrt each other, even if I'm not that technically minded. The 5th was love within the first 1/4 mile of riding it, that engine! Wow, blew my mind after not riding for a number of years. But it has always looked a bit 'overweight' and bulbous, certainly compared to the 6th Gen and had plenty of issues especially in the early days. I grew to love the looks of the 6th, especially the stacked headlights. It did everything better than the 5th.....except the engine. The VTEC was unrefined, even in an 08 model although fuel consumption was better and the VTEC rush when it kicked in was nice but it would have been nicer to have the smoother torque curve of the 5th without the torque drops preceding the VTEC kick. Handling, braking, looks (in the eye of the beholder), lighting were all better. But the VTEC was a technology looking for a reason to exist. Only introduced to meet emissions regs and it threatened to ruin a great engine. Fast forward to the 2014 800F / 2015 800X and you have the best 800 of all imo. Honda have refined the VTEC engine significantly and the rest of the bike is as much an upgrade as it was from 5th to 6th Gen. I'm sure any 800F owners would agree as I've only ridden the 800F once but I have absolutely loved my 2 800X's and wouldn't swap them. Having said all that, I do own an '01 5th Gen too. The VFR1200 is the best VFR ever made. 😉

I don't own a Mk1 Crossrunner, mine's a Mk 2 but could you post a photo to highlight your issue? You can always blank out some digits if you are concerned.

I haven't messed with anything yet, certainly not #1 or any other SV, which is why I'm suspecting the wax unit as the bike was fine last year. There not a spot of corrosion on her either so I'm struggling to see how any of the SV or wax unit could have corrosion.

Thanks guys, will take an in-depth look at this soon.

Hi raYzerman, thanks for that. When you say "back it off" for the wax unit, do you mean move the adjuster (yellow arrow) until it no longer has an effect when moved by hand?

No m8, but good spot. It's a scribe mark on the thread exaggerated by the angle of the light.

Picture from parts catalogue, blue arrow pointing to yellow-arrowed adjuster in previous post. Image from Honda SM. Can't find any reference to adjusting here either.

Finally have an hour or so to take a look at this. Drained the fuel tank, started the bike, idles around 2k rpm as it warms, temperature gets to about 70° C (158° F) and the idle shoots up quickly to around 3k rpm. I backed the idle adjuster out until it no longer touches the plate that moves the SV assembly so that it is not affecting idle - blue arrow in photo The screw/nut adjuster with the yellow arrow, which I think leads to the wax idle unit, can be pulled outwards a little and that reduces the idle so I'm wondering if that is not adjusted correctly. I've looked through the Haynes manual and there is no reference to this adjuster (bronze coloured tube with green dot on it) but it definitely moves the whole SV assembly and thus affects the idle. When I had the bike apart, I didn't knowingly disturb this, I didn't remove the fuel rail assembly at all, just disconnected and removed the PAIR system. Is there a procedure somewhere to adjust the yellow-arrowed nut to move the whole assembly without disturbing the wax idle unit? Or is this factory set and should not be moved, in which case why has the idle adjuster run out of movement and is therefore unable to reduce the idle speed? Or am I barking up the wrong tree here? Any help appreciated.