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Tamworth

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Tamworth last won the day on October 6 2013

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  1. Torque wrench will just give trouble on this cap. Proper tool for this particular cap is a socket drive with a screwdriver handle, or holding the socket wrench at the head and not the handle
  2. A ton of space? Like a few cubic inches in areas where it's completely irrelevant, and no weight savings to speak of
  3. Whether the coil is a half inch away from the plug or 8 inches from the plug makes no difference, there is no performance gain to be realized. Coil on plug does simplify manufacturing and does eliminate HT leads, which rarely fail regardless. One of those mods you do just because you like tinkering, nothing to be gained from it.
  4. You can be the first, but who really wants to butcher a good 1200.
  5. I disagree, what you're describing is adjusted with the suspension set up. The only time I ride with a lower psi than 36/42 is in real cold weather, then I'll drop each tyre one pound. The air inside the tyre is going to stay the same to hold the tyres shape no matter what the wt. is. Well you'll have a smaller contact patch with a single light rider (at 42 psi) than with a fully loaded bike (at 42 psi). Dropping the pressure by 1 psi will not make any noticeable difference. Most pressure gauges are not even accurate or consistent within 1 psi
  6. The other thing to consider is that the tire's labeled maximum recommended pressure, which is typically 42 psi, is ideal for a bike loaded to it's maximum carrying weight , lets say 400 lbs. That's a rider, passenger, and full luggage. How can this pressure also be ideal for a single rider, lets say 190 lbs with no luggage. The simple answer is that it is not ideal.
  7. There's no davantage to turning a fan on earlier than it would be turned on by the stock temp. switch, and there's absolutely no advantage to turning it off before the temp. switch would. It does not use any more power than the bike can easily supply. Cooling fans on every vehicle, moto or auto, have been controlled by thermal switches with near 100% reliability. Self powered makes no sense, the bike battery is perfectly capable of operating the fan under all circumstances. If your battery is incapable of operating the fan then it's likely the bike is not running, or is about to stop running. This would seem to be a verry complicated way of doing something that is already done with perfect simplicity.
  8. To those who have done the valves: Did you replace the fuel line retaining clips or re-use the old ones?
  9. it's truly an insane bodge. As a long time and die hard VFR lover it's pretty hard to look at. it may be seated on the rim but the tire bead is completely incomparable with the rim. This bike would be far safer running a square car tire, and that would solve your center stand issue. The current tire sidewall is stretched to within millimeter of it's life, it's virtually parallel with the rim. The tire tread is actually starting to get a reverse curve to it at the edge. This configuration can not possibly be roadworthy or road legal
  10. Car and motorcycle bead sizing are not the same. Even though they may both be called 17 inch there is enough difference that it can not safely be done. If you did somehow get the bead to sit it would be stressed way beyond design. If you really want the wider tire you will have to widen the VFR wheel.
  11. I would say VFRCan"s information is quite a bit more researched, accurate and credible than "Yeah Tell my 100,000 mile working Cat and 02 sensors". Maybe you can explain your process in determining that your Cat and sensors are in perfect working condition.
  12. All that will prove is how lean or rich your engine is running. But really, I'm sure your engine is cleaner than any other . . . .
  13. No way, mine's cleaner than yours
  14. CS begins the second you start moving, it's the only possible method of keeping the bike from falling over. it is the very first handlebar input you make the second your wheels start rotating. Try and pull out of your driveway without CS, can't be done, it's the only way to keep your balance as you leave the driveway and turn on to the street, and the only way to straighten up once you're on the street. Try and ride at a walking pace or slower, only CS and lots of it will keep you upright. The video is simply talking about a more forceful CS input for certain occasions, something we've all used to swerve around potholes in town. No amount of weight shifting alone is going to get the bike to turn in any meaningful time frame, at any speed, without being accompanied by CS. At speed the gyro effect does enhance the CS effect in all the right ways, with the gyro effect forcing the bike over and dampening out the process, but at low speeds it's also needed constantly to simply keep the wheels under the bike I'm sorry, but I think you are either using the wrong terminology or are very confused on the subject of Counter Steering in general! "CS begins the second you start moving" There is No C/S ever if your moving in a straight line and no imput is applied to the bars. C/S is the act of turning. At low speeds(before the front wheel is rotating fast enough to act like a gyro (it's actually the gyro effect of the front wheel at speed that causes the C/S effect if I'm not mistaken)) like in parking lots if you want to turn right you turn the bars to the right to go right. Try that after whatever speed C/S's gyro effect starts and you'll go Left with the same input(turning the bars to the right)! So if I understand you correctly, if you want to turn right out of your driveway on your bicycle or motorcycle "you would turn the bars to the left?" . BR Yes, you CS in a straight line, that's what keeps you going in a straight line, if you drift to one side you need CS to straighten out. In a parking lot, or at that speed a turn will always require turning the bars in the direction of the turn, but that turn will always be initiated by a slight CS. Now depending on the exact lean and state of the bike you may not require the actual CS to initiate the turn, but you will certainly use CS to straighten out after the turn. The gyro effect of a fast spinning wheel is not necessarily linked to CS. CS takes place virtually 100% of the time the bike is moving. All the riders on this forum are already excellent counter steerers. I just don't believe any rider would mistakenly turn the bars in the wrong direction in a panic situation, any more than they would on a bicycle.
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