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Cogswell

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About Cogswell

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    I need more power

Profile Information

  • Location Portland, Oregon
  • In My Garage: 1999 VFR
    2008 VFR ABS
    1995 VFR - gone but not forgotten

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  1. Is the battery and charging system in good shape? If it's not the tank vent that might be another thing to check.
  2. MIA for the past 6 months - last logged in March 15th.
  3. I've seen several '06's in person - IMO they don't need much dressing up! If I had one I might do something with the wheels - polish them, or go a light gold or silver - something to contrast a bit more with the black. I'm a fan of Honda's Blackbird in black too. I've never seen many owners do much with those, either - they just look great right from the factory! Only $3,000 for that one - if everything checks out and the plastic is nice, it's a steal!
  4. I didn't see it mentioned that 2006 and up had a revised wiring harness to address some of the electrical issues that '05 and earlier had. It's worth asking an owner of an '02 through '05 if they've had the wiring harness recall done. If they don't know, the VIN number can be run to find out. If not, a call to the nearest dealer to find out the status of getting a revised harness in might be a good idea. Also, on 2002's the original stator / rotor combo was smaller than later units - so if that has not been addressed a fried stator (that never happens on 6th gens, does it? ) will also mean a new rotor to go with it. Not that any of that makes them less desirable, but it does give one some bargaining leverage if those items have not been addressed. I didn't notice any of the 6th gens having ABS. That might be worth considering as well. I have to chime in that the Cosmic Black 2006 color is really stunning in sunlight - it has a good deal of metallic in it. I don't know how Honda pulled it off - but it's beautiful. At those prices you can't go wrong with any of them if they've been cared for.
  5. Plus 1 on the RuGlyde. I bought a gallon at Napa years ago and doubt I'll ever use it all. To keep the tire bead in the drop, I use some bar clamps to squeeze the opposite side of where I'm working. The other thing I acquired is something called a "Mojo Lever". It's a tire mounting tool that works the way a shop would do it. A search for it on youtube will turn up a number of demonstration videos. Since I started using it, my frustration level has dropped significantly and no scratches on any wheels. I worked out a way of holding the wheel on a bench so I don't need the H.F. tire changer - everything breaks down and fits in a cabinet. http://www.mojotiretools.com/mojoweb.htm
  6. When I traded in my 4th gen for my 5th, when I handed the keys and owner's manual over to the salesman he exclaimed something to the effect of - "oh - you have BOTH keys - great!" Somewhat perplexed I said that I didn't understand . . . doesn't everyone have both keys? He replied that they more often than not they don't get the second set of keys with a bike. I'm not sure why - but it seems to go with the territory. I wouldn't worry about it.
  7. Good work - nice looking bike. Is there a story on the headers? They look look like they might have been coated or are possibly after-market. At my work we have a smaller, palm sized version of your yard gnome - we've dubbed it "The Traveling Gnome". People take turns taking on vacation and photoing it in various locations. It's made a few trips on my 6th gen with me - like a good luck charm!
  8. This video shows a demo of it being done with a stick magnet and a socket.
  9. As a corporate demo, if it was tipped over it was surely repaired to a high standard with OEM parts by Honda. Also, it would seem there would be at least a mark or two on the ball end of the lever. If it were mine it wouldn't concern me - I doubt Honda would let something out to the public that had any sort of issues.
  10. You might want to browse through the Maintenance and Modifications sections right here on VFRD. If you have a problem or are going to work on something, chances are good someone has documented their work on it here - particularly in the electrical section. Browse the pinned posts and scan down for other topics. Some will be quite informative, others not so much. You also might want to pick up a book or video on mechanics basics that covers topics that apply to anything mechanical - such as starting all bolts on a part prior to tightening any, or what types of sealants to use in any particular application or torquing nuts / bolts in a specified sequence to prevent distorting the workpiece. You'll also want to have some additional tools beyond just common wrenches and sockets. A couple of high quality torque wrenches - one calibrated in inch-pounds and a larger one for bigger fasteners will help you keep from stripping threads. A multi-meter for electrical work is useful. Locking pliers, an oil filter wrench, JIS screwdrivers and a selection of T-handle allen drivers are other common examples.
  11. Great trade! We'd love more photos when you get the chance.
  12. Exactly Yes. I removed the side stand, then drilled and tapped a hole where the stand hits the stop on its bracket. I used a drill press to keep the hole square to the surface. A bolt (I think 4mm) was then threaded in with some loctite. It took some test fitting to cut it to the right length so as not to bottom out in the blind hole. I then used a file to reduce the thickness of the bolt head to get the stand to clearance the block. I kept it as high as possible - it clears the block by maybe 1/4" or so. If you want I can probably scare up a photo or two of it if that's helpful.
  13. The adjusting rod needs to be shortened by 1 to 2 threads. If you adjust it out so that you can flip the U shaped turnbuckle off, a Dremel can be used to cut enough off the rod. The cutoff wheel will want to walk off the workpiece and hit surrounding parts, so be sure to protect them. Once the rod is shortened, reassemble and you can move the brake lever down to taste. You'll also need to do something about the spring that activates the brake light or the light will be on continuously. To deal with that I got a very small split ring at a hardware store, threaded it through the hole in the brake pedal and attached the spring to it. That gave it just enough extra to keep the switch in its working range. That's been working fine for about 20,000 miles. I really enjoy the extra room the blocks give my knees, particularly on long rides! Enjoy.
  14. That's a very sharp looking install. Nicely done. I wish I understood its operation better. I'm guessing here - but the longer lever is the brake and the shorter operates the clutch - or? It would be very interesting if you'd care to share more about how it works.
  15. Same here. Using a filter wrench is no big deal vs having an oil soaked tire.