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Cogswell last won the day on October 28 2016

Cogswell had the most liked content!

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About Cogswell

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    I need more power
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  • Location
    Portland, Oregon :(
  • In My Garage:
    1999 VFR
    2008 VFR ABS
    1995 VFR - gone but not forgotten

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  1. Wow - just 36. Is there a way to get that same data for other countries?
  2. Looks like quite an adventure - hitting all lower 48 in the CONUS. If you have now left the crew behind, will you be in any video from now on or just narrating what you film? Do you plan on making your schedule public? You might find other members here that would ride with you if they knew you were coming. Better still, they could probably direct you to local, out of the way hangouts and sights worth seeing. Looking forward to more of these! Safe travels.
  3. Was thinking mostly of the Wolf exhaust and the Corbin Smuggler seat (with the compartment) - both no longer in production. Once in a while they'll come up here for sale or on ebay, and if reasonably priced go quickly. The rest is for the most part still commercially available or trades 2nd hand semi-regularly. For the 3M film, an Amazon or ebay search for "3M Scotchgard film" will turn up numerous sellers that offer it in various bulk roll sizes. IIRC there's also a heavy duty variant. I trimmed it to fit on the fork lowers, then peeled off the backing and applied. You'll want a spray bottle with a mix of about 1/3 rubbing alcohol and 2/3 water (that can vary). Spray liberally on the surface, apply the film - the liquid will allow it to be positioned, then from the center squeegee the liquid out. Don't worry about adhesion - it will stick fine. Once in place it's difficult to see. As for the connectors, there's nothing on them to protect them from the factory, so if there is obvious corrosion, you have only upside to cleaning and treating them. Oxgard is conductive so helps the electrical flow in addition to preventing further corrosion. Some people like to use di-electric grease, which is fine for sealing connectors, but being silicone, is an insulator so it's not good for the metal pins themselves. I've been using Oxgard for a long time on both my bikes and cars and have had zero electrical issues. In this case being near sea air, IMO is an ideal candidate for Oxgard.
  4. Wow - that's a nicely farkled machine - nearly impossible to get some of those bits now. Not sure about your paint question, but I do have the 3M clear material on my fork lowers. Seems to be holding up ok. With all that salt air seeping in to things, it might be worth it to go through all the electrical connectors / grounds looking for corrosion. The part time voltmeter might be indicative of brewing issues. I have used Oxgard with good success. Clean connectors if necessary and apply. Seems to keep the electrics in good shape and prevents corrosion.
  5. My personal experience with ebay buyer protection is that it is for the most part worthless. If you are on ebay long enough, eventually you'll run in to an unscrupulous seller. It's a sad fact but a reality. Basically what ebay will do is have you open a "case". You make your statement then the seller gets a rebuttal and it goes back and forth. I never got anywhere with it, though I understand some people do. As stated above regarding working with only established members, the same goes for ebay. I've altered my rules for using it over the years. The seller must have a good number of transactions - preferably at least in the hundreds, and absolutely zero negative feedback. Yes, there are unreasonable buyers that cannot be made happy, but I no longer take chances on sellers with any tarnish on their reputation. I also limit my buying on ebay to small dollar items that I figure I can simply write off as a loss if it goes sour. It's happened to me twice since 2001, so all in all still an overwhelmingly good experience - I've found things on ebay I could have found no where else. I'm just more careful than I used to be.
  6. Sorry this took so long . . . These allow the pegs to function as stock folding normally. I removed the feeler and replaced it with a socket head bolt so it wouldn't be touching the pavement too soon. One thing you'll run in to is that the side stand will come up and hit the peg. To solve that, in the last photo there is a small bolt (IIRC 4mm) that I installed on the back side of the stand where it comes up and contacts the stop. The bolt head spaces the stand down a bit to prevent it from hitting. To do that I removed the stand and used a drill press to drill a blind hole, then tapped it. Once the bolt was threaded in I used a file to get the thickness just right to keep the stand just clear of the peg. Once I had it where I wanted it I backed it out and used a tiny drop of blue Loctite on final assembly. It's been working great for 20,000 miles. On the other side the stop light switch and master cylinder pushrod length are an issue. There I used a Dremel to shorten the rod a couple of threads and a split ring on the spring for the light switch to prevent the brake light from being constantly on. These have made a big difference for me on long rides. It doesn't seem like much, but that extra inch gives the legs and knees enough additional room for comfort. I hope that helps. Keep the photos coming - love seeing them.
  7. That's going to be smokin' hot all right. If you want to lower the stock pegs you can get the peg lowering blocks right here from BusyLittleShop. They bolt right on. Love 'em. I don't recall exactly what I paid, but you can get a lot better deal than $200. I thought he might have some photos of them in his gallery, but all I see are hot girls and hot bikes! Go figure . . . LOL! I can scrounge up a photo of mine if that helps.
  8. That will be a great ride. Mailman posted up some pics of his rides up P.P. - great views when it's clear. It was quite hazy the day I was there. At first I was hesitant to roll over to the sign for a photo, but in the gift shop they said "go ahead!" and I got some encouragement from onlookers so I went for it. Like they say, photo or it didn't happen! Enjoy - should be a great ride!
  9. ^^^ This is what I wish I had done with my OEM seat rather than purchase the Sargent. After I got the Sargent I still had to have it reshaped and multiple densities added to finally get it comfortable. I've seen my Sargent dis-assembled. The foam differs very little from the stocker except that it's somewhat harder. It's a single density. That probably works for some and not for others. Multiple densities gives you some compliance and cushioning to reduce pressure points without bottoming (no pun intended ) out on the seat pan. In the end it worked out but it would have been a lot cheaper for me to just re-work the original seat. The one pictured here looks great.
  10. Top work. Anxiously waiting to see this finished.
  11. Beautiful bike.
  12. You should be tooting your own horn and patting yourself on the back - this is inspired work! The 10 spoke in white should look fantastic on it - I'm stoked to see it on the completed bike. You'll definitely have a one of a kind RWB for sure!
  13. Welcome back. I'm glad you added that you bought it as a leftover in 2011 . . . I'd be shocked if there was a leftover 2008 still at a dealer anywhere these days. Props on the photo with your post - looks good. How many miles on it now?
  14. This video may be of some help - he shows how to remove pins on various Honda automotive connectors. I've found dental tools to be very helpful when doing that. I have a selection of various types that can usually get at the small retaining tabs. It's tough to know how to release them without being able to see how they're made. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0-F5MFyzwpA
  15. So it sounds as though you removed the battery and brought it home to charge it . . . yes? If you re-install and it starts, you probably have part of your answer. If that's enough to get you home, by all means it will be better being close and preferably in a garage to do your work. Mello Dude has a nice post on "The Drill" to go through your charging system. A new R/R does not guarantee that you're getting proper charging - and also begs the question what made you replace the R/R in the first place. If you do not have a voltmeter, they can be had relatively cheap at an auto parts store, Harbor Freight, etc. After going through these steps report back your results and take it from there. http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/84719-the-drill/#comment-1050867