Welcome to VFRDiscussion

Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to contribute to this site by submitting your own content or replying to existing content. You'll be able to customize your profile, receive reputation points as a reward for submitting content, while also communicating with other members via your own private inbox, plus much more! This message will be removed once you have signed in.

Cogswell

Forum Contributor
  • Content count

    2,784
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

762 Excellent

About Cogswell

  • Rank
    I need more power

Profile Information

  • Location Portland, Oregon :(
  • In My Garage: 1999 VFR
    2008 VFR ABS
    1995 VFR - gone but not forgotten

Recent Profile Visitors

20,882 profile views
  1. I have the handlebar remote and also find that it takes up too much real estate on a motorcycle grip. It's a different dynamic on my pedal bikes where for whatever reason I seem to find it less intrusive. I'm hoping for a wrist remote I can mount else / any where. It probably would also be more useful when dismounting the bike to take shots/video when not riding. As much as we all would like this by the holidays, I can only speak for myself in saying that I hope you take the time to make a flawless release. I've been through rush roll-outs in the past, and no matter the hard work, due diligence, late nights and good intentions, things can get overlooked when trying to beat a deadline. I'm content to wait until it's running as smoothly as possible. Thanks for your hard work and looking forward to the rollout!
  2. That is nice. They're often not in that good of condition.
  3. About a year ago one from a '92 with more than a few imperfections sold on ebay for $599. Then a month or so later one sold for under $100. For one in average condition it seems that about $350 +/- U.S. is a fairly common price. If you got one in good condition for a significantly less, count yourself lucky. VFR owners are just one demographic looking for them - customizers swapping to SS swingarms also covet them so that puts more competitors in to the mix.
  4. Honda seems to be repeating the pattern for the 6th gen - basically the same machine each year offered in a different color. So far the 8th gen has been red ( similar to '02, '05 and others), white (as with '06), black, tho not in the US ('06, '09), grey ('08), so now apparently we should be waiting for iterations over the next few model years in silver, candy red, flat black, RWB and maybe in some markets cobalt blue. I guess I don't mind - as long as they keep making them!
  5. Intermittent electrical issues can be frustrating to sort. It may be obvious such as a loose connector or place where a wire has rubbed through. I don't have one of these but have heard good things about them. The price of one would likely be less than shop time to have it fixed. Power Probe Open Circuit Detector
  6. Coolant level is ok?
  7. To clarify, are you wondering why the M/C rod needs to be shortened? It does seem paradoxical that the threaded rod must be shortened to get more adjustment out of it . . . If that's the question, have a look at the pivot point of the pedal - it's in front of the threaded rod. For the front of the pedal to go down, the portion behind the pivot point (where the rod attaches) therefore goes up. The trouble is, the threaded rod is too long for that to happen, bottoming out in the turnbuckle before the front can get low enough to accommodate the now lower peg. Remember, the pedal pushes the rod up in to the M/C. So to keep it from bottoming out, it must be shortened. Unfortunately I did not take any photos during install - I'd be happy to take one now but it would not look any different than prior to surgery. My best counsel would be to loosen it all up and start unthreading the turnbuckle. Once you see how it comes apart it will become more apparent why you're shortening it. Once you have the turnbuckle completely off the rod (replace the locknut on the rod to clear the threads after cutting), shorten as described above and re-assemble. I would not take more than 2 threads off the rod - 1 to 2 should give you what you need. More than that might not leave enough adjustment to remove the lowering blocks to put it back to stock. I can't recommend highly enough to have something behind the rod if using a Dremel - the cutoff wheel WILL walk off the work and gouge something on the bike if there's nothing preventing it. If you want a photo of what was done with the side stand, that would show some detail - I'd be happy to provide that if interested. Best of luck with it.
  8. No bids. Too bad there's no way of finding out the reserve. That would only end up with a high end collector. For the average Schmo', even if they could afford the entry price, when they go to the insurance company and get a policy on it, the underwriters are going to be saying "whaaa, huuuh, - whatz that again? A race bike? Never heard of it. That'll cost you your first born and 3 nights with your wife to insure." Like an NR, a nice day dream, but for the vast majority never gonna happen.