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About BluRoad

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    V4 Dreams (dot com)

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Profile Information

  • Location
    Antioch, IL USA
  • In My Garage:
    '86 VFR750 (several), '03 ST1300, '15 Triumph Bonnie, Honda Ridgeline
  1. V4Dreams (.com)

  2. project 86 750

    Sweeet. Nice job on the sync. Those are the worst carb bowls I've ever seen, and I've seen a few. Nice work. JOE in IL V4 Dreams (.com)
  3. New here

    Saved from a certain slow death. Nice job. JOE in IL
  4. project 86 750

    Looks like just about every one I've ever gotten. The taped up rear turn signal in the video is classic. Have fun!! JOE in IL V4Dreams.com
  5. 87 vfr 700 questions.

    BTW, the front spark plugs and, of course, valve adjustment, is much easier with the radiator removed, which is not difficult. The 40K miles is generally not an issue, but, as always, it depends on what kind of life the bike led. Where are you in Illinois? Joe in IL
  6. Thanks, JZH. Definitely not OEM. If anyone has an OEM set I would appreciate the measurements hole-to-hole. That would allow me to determine if they're lowered.
  7. Yes, the shock is a 929 conversion from Jamie D.
  8. So I've recently gotten hold of this lovely '97 and found these rear shock links installed. I don't think they're OEM. Can anyone verify whether they're aftermarket lowering links? Thanks.
  9. 87 vfr 700 questions.

    The factory service manual (FSM) is your starting point. It will show you where the paint code sticker is and then go to ColorRite.com or here to decode: http://www.vsource.org/VFR-RVF_files/BHondaPaintCodes.htm The paint codes are no longer useful to a shop or paint supplier. Original colors will need to be custom matched. Go through the Maintenance section in the FSM for a good overview on what to check. A somewhat common weak point on these bikes is the charging system; upgrades are available, but if your's is charging then a thorough cleaning of connectors and ground points is a good place to start. Our old carbs are often in need of service, there's guys here to help if you're not up to it (Squirrelman). Safety first: brakes, tires (check the date code; if older than about 8 years, replace). Leaking fork seals are not uncommon, especially on stored bikes. If your bike has over 20K miles then a valve clearance check is in order, not difficult once you work your way down to the valve covers. Fresh coolant, fresh brake/clutch fluids, spark plugs...the usual. Good luck, and photos are always encouraged here..... JOE in IL V4 Dreams (.com)
  10. So I mounted them up thus: I raised the forks 4mm in the triple clamp, which netted a 10mm recess, which gives me a clamping area of 23mm on the clipon. I can live with that. I'll recheck the mounting bolt torque occasionally and worry about something else.... JOE in IL V4 Dreams (.com)
  11. I recently acquired a '97 VFR and when removing the forks for rebuild I found these 3/4" bar risers installed beneath the clipons. The issue is that to fit it all back in place (keeping the clipons flush with the fork tube top) they were installed with the fork tubes raised in the triple clamp by 14mm. I can't believe this was intended by the maker of the risers, so I'm wondering if anyone knows how these were intended to be installed. I know that similar GenMar risers say to install with the fork tubes recessed into the clipons (GenMar doesn't list risers for the '97). I'm not sure how I feel about that, but I really don't want to raise my forks either. Any thoughts? JOE in IL joe.nelson@ymail.com
  12. Quick question

    ...and where does one acquire the D tool? I just picked up a '97 but I'm used the the 2d-gen; nice simple straight-blade screwing device is all that's needed. JOE in IL
  13. "Fat Boy" Fuel Tank Mystery ('86 VFR)

    Nothing evident to me. A pair of '86 750s....
  14. "Fat Boy" Fuel Tank Mystery ('86 VFR)

    Here ya go.... I took a few minutes to do some accurate measurements. Referring to the photos, I took measurements of the subframe at the front mount, 6" back, 10" back and 14" back (indicated by the yellow tape). Front= wide frame 11", normal frame 11 1/4" 6"= wide 9 3/4", normal 9 7/8" 10"= wide 7 7/8", normal 8" 14"= wide 6 1/8, normal 5 7/8" Some of the difference is most likely due to manufacturing variances, but the first three "normal" measurements are actually wider. The telling difference is at 14", near the rear tank mount. Speaking of the tank, I measured the tank at the widest exterior point (at the "Ho" in the "HONDA" decal): wide tank= 16", normal= 15 3/8"... ...and at the rear flange's widest point: wide tank= 9 1/8, normal= 8 3/16. As a control, I measured a second "normal" tank; when compared to the first normal tank it's the same at the widest point and 1/4" narrower at the rear flange. So maybe they're all a bit different, but that doesn't take away the fact that the Fat Boy tank won't fit on my other subframes. Hmmmm... Joe

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