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VFRSuperfreak

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VFRSuperfreak last won the day on September 2 2011

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About VFRSuperfreak

  • Rank
    World Superbike Racer

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  • Location
    GDL Mex
  • In My Garage:
    96 VFR
  1. Update on this, with a new-fangled tip I offer for your review. The knockoff RR is gone. Got a new Shindengen unit with those double Neg and Pos outputs. New battery and new starter relay. Re-did some wiring, new lines direct to battery etc. Here's the interesting bit, the new relay, I noticed the connectors for the fuse were loose, didn't want to mess with trying to tighten something that will vibrate loose again. We know semi-tight connectors just create resistance, heat up and melt dreams and rides. So I crimped a nice fat eyelet connector to the RED wire that goes to the fuse bank, (with an inline fuse! and I will solder it calm down), to bypass every weak point: Attached this to the HOT post on the relay, the one with the fat wire coming direct from Batt. POS. This wire/crimp deal is never coming loose again!. Yes I could have connected this to Batt +, but I wanted a cleaner install. The whole double - + wire enchilada now charges at 14.4v. Yeah it drops to around 12.5 with headlights and fan, braking on. But we know this Stator has to be replaced soon anyway, it's the weakest link r. now on this otherwise new-part charging circuit. This should do well for the next few rides to MX's pacific beaches. Thanks again!
  2. Latch is still on duty! glad to also inform you last year I hosted a Dutch rider who was crossing North America. Totally bonkers lad!. Ride all day, drink all night, then pass out wherever I told him "that looks like no one will notice you're passed out". HAHA!, we rode to my dad's funeral, partied again, 'cos that's what we do, and I was grateful to have company. Geert Van DenElsen if you happen to believe in a small world. /Edit; what do you mean 2nd headlight. Weren't that gen in europe both on all the time? -PS Interested on what model/brand that RR you speak of is/was. Thanks!
  3. Just wanted to update on this RR issue, hoping it's useful to someone, after a year and a bit of sporadic riding. (Some 20 outings of 3hrs average). A new, off-brand chinese RR has been on duty, but on the last few high-speed outings it was delivering high charge, 14-16volt. @4kRPM. This is a problem I was several hrs away from home and the nearest shop, so I bought a pair of 80/100 watt headlight bulbs. The Charging dropped by about 1volt. 15V. This would be acceptable, but I wanted to do another change. This RR comes with a monitoring line, which, under manual instr. I had connected to the furthest wire: the back brake light, the one that's on all the time. - So on this ride I moved this directly to the POS batt. post. The voltage delivery dropped again 1volt, to 14. This is acceptable. So, the lesson here is; This RR isn't made for a high-rev bike, so it lets thru just a bit more voltage than normal. (YESIKNOW, I could just dish out big bucks in a new shiny electrex or whatever, but I like fixing things with normal parts bc I'm earning pesos, and having a great time canyon-carving every weekend now). BUT; the biggest lesson is; Battery; it was suspect and I recovered by doing a few 17volt, 20 minute sessions. Stator; No problem! Altho it was suspect. Wiring; High gauge all around for years now. RR; off-brand, (cheap, about $40.), RR with the extra voltage monitoring line is feeding the whole enchilada just fine for just over a year. Thanks all! ps; Shot of the bike yesterday, one of the seadoos had a dead battery, so we used mine from the bike!! The seadoo uses a big, car-like unit. Soo, if my puny Yuasa can start that thing!... (my batt sits at 12.56v hours after a ride).
  4. It turns but it's not starting. help pls.

    It started!, after leaving 2 rear cyl. open and drained all carb bowls. It was flooded but with injector cleaner. (yes I knooww). I've done those battery tests, and altho it was resulting in a weak, 75% charge after sitting hours, I still tried it because it cranks, it turns the engine. And last week we went out, first time in months!. here we are in the middle of the worse Narco roads. ( 20.839440, -103.336624 ) Pic and video attached;
  5. It turns but it's not starting. help pls.

    Well, unfort not that "cheap", I'm on an extended stay in Mexico earning pesos, it's about 3 years old, and I will DEF. buy one if it's the case. (the solenoid is on its way and supposed to be half the price of a Yuasa). on the last try, the engine turns, I have the battery directly connected to a 15v, 3A. charger while doing so. It recovers to over 12.3 every time. So here's the question: Under this specific test, used batt, starter cranking over and over, would a weak battery still be the root cause?? UPDATE: I removed the 2 rear spark plugs: they come out wet every time. This I believe makes that "injector cleaner" fluid I poured, a suspect now. Right? After drying I tested each by leaving the wire and grounding to the engine; They spark. I will try to somehow test a different spark plug, or these ones in a different engine, to see if there's a difference. -I've now drained the carb. deposits, the tank, hoses and gas pump. I'll let it sit for days like this.
  6. Hello. Hope this is familiar to someone. I've done some trial-error so let me list the most recent work; -I charged the battery several times, it appears healthy as it recovers to 12.2 after a stint of cranking. But sometimes not so much, more deets below. -I've checked all fuses and wiring. (It had worked about 3 weeks ago, then stored with an automatic charger). -It has the improved wiring with direct lines and thicker gauge going to POS and NEG, plus a monitor wire (7 wire R-R) -About 2 weeks ago I poured about 200ml of injector cleaner into the tank. Mentioning in case it matters. -I removed the hose from the gas pump, it appears to be pumping but haven't measured how much. -I filled the disconnected hose with gas, and the gas level did not change while cranking. -The starter relay/solenoid is suspect as it sometimes just clicks, then I bridge it with a screwdriver, and it cranks. BUT sometimes it just does crank (2 of 3 crank sessions). On the last try: I tried starting while jumping it from my car, haven't tried a run-start. I tried this without the battery (after reading posts about internal battery shorts draining the available power from a jump). On the last try I removed the air filter, and it seems to have gas going into the carbs. I get like 1 sputter per 3 second crank, which is to say almost no sputter. So, thinking I will remove the spark plugs next to check if bridged or wet and flooded, I didn't have plug tools on the last try. But I'm asking here what to check next? I've ordered a new starter solenoid but it will be another week to get here. Any help appreciated! /edit; attached FLV of when it started and revved ok. voltmeter is connected to the fuse bank. vfr revving.flv
  7. Hey Do you still have this deal available? I'll check how much to send to Mexico. Thanks!
  8. Connected a 6 wire R-R, question on the sensing line

    Thanks for the link. When it comes to ordering sometimes I call STG in Michigan. I'll keep rapidbike in mind. Let me also add that I have a chronic health problem so, small shit that can be fixed easily, to me it's 3 days of sweat and naps. (myasthenia gravis), this also prevents me from earning normal pesos. SO THIS IS WHY I end up testing sub-par shit. (which I think should be of use!, I test questionable shit!) However... I'm happy to report that the new, Chinese, made for "big bikes like yours", that cost me about $60. is charging good enough: 13.5 idle, 12.7. with fan and brake lights on, and about 14.7 at over 3kRPM, the needle on the analog voltmeter points to over 14 anytime I blip the throttle. This is good enough. YEs I'm aware that low number at idle + fan may become a problem later, but I'm watching all wires, dash lights and voltmeter. Also aware that the stator might be the root of this low charge, but with a lightweight RR, I'll leave the stator alone, else risk overloading the RR ha-ha. AT LEAST I'M RIDING!. Every other MG sufferer is housebound.
  9. Connected a 6 wire R-R, question on the sensing line

    I can´t find it here and won´t order one to lose it in Mexican customs. My bad, maybe I should state where I am before I post. Because if I were next to a Cycle World in Toronto where I used to live... I´d have the proper part every time! (even if they make me wait for head ball bearings 4 months like they did one time!, here I just bring the offending sample and walk out with something close, that works.).
  10. Connected a 6 wire R-R, question on the sensing line

    Thanks but, do you really think this model was designed properly in the electric realm?. We need to make it better son!.
  11. Hi friends hopefully some of you are up late. Today I hooked up a 6 wire RR, however for reasons listed later*, I hooked up the sensor wire (black), directly to the positive battery post. I've now stored the bike and gone elsewhere I can't bring it, and am worried that with this setup, either the battery will be drained, or the RR will be toasted as it's on a closed circuit. Does anyone know that the RR would be smart enough to have an open loop in the inside circuitry when it's not charging or otherwise receiving power from the stator? THANKS! PD: *My reasoning for wiring it this way: Placed on a light or brake line as suggested elsewhere, leaves the line vulnerable to a dead fuse in that circuit, which then would cause the RR to send a full 20+ volt charge. Also; the fluctuatio in a bulb line is about 1volt, I tested!, I believe this would cause the RR to constantly hunt for the right level in a wider range, overworking its innards.
  12. Final account: After all new soldered joints in the wiring, removing xenon lights, and attaching the meter to monitor charge thru the day, we find: 13.20 while cruising, variation only to12.90 when stopped, engine idle, with lights and fan on, and up to 14 in high rev (4k+). So, if the stator is going bad, it's going to have to serve until the last volt!. HOWEVER. Posting this because I found the source of weak or faulty starts: The yellow wire that activates the starter relay, had only one strand left. invisible as the insulation was all complete. Replaced the spade fem connector etc. voila! quick starts.
  13. Yeah just spoke with a parts wrecker who said the same thing. in fact he said don't even rewound the stator, get a new one, or good used one from a wreck. Rewinding just buys you some time. this last rewinding gave me 4 years, that might me good enough for a $60 job. I took it out of the bike this aft. just to check, and the windings all seem ok, not burned, just an even dark honey color.
  14. So, yeah, I tested the RR following the Electrex guide, and it checks out! (guide says FORWARD bias, 6 tests, the range should be .400 to .600 and it's all within .550 The stator AC volt is supplying 18 to 45v UNPLUGGED, but it drops to 11v plugged into the system. Battery is good, charged and tested. What gives!?? (here's some photos, i tested the other RR for a friend, just for kicks, he had discarded it. Yes we have a local VFR riders club.
  15. Hello all hope to get some feedback on a possible dead RR, I've replaced it before, and done a stator rewiring some time ago. Stator: VOLT AC tests: rewound 4 years ago. Charging unplugged 18vAC to 45vAC (idle to about 4kRPM, engine hot). When plugged the charge shows only 11v idle and 4v at 3kRPM!! (Main reason the RR is suspect). Stator: OHM tests, unplugged: 1.5 to 2ohm on either of 3 leads. (!!?) Wiring: 14AWG wires all around, (crimps found fried last week) crimps were donee about 4 years ago but now tested soldered. (yes de-soldered to run the unplugged tests). RR; Bought USED GSXR 1K unit, 5 years ago. Gets hot instantly. shows .500 ohms +/- 50 ohms when tested RED to Yellows, or GDN to Yellows unplugged. Battery: 2 years old.Holds charge overnight, 12.85v. no problems there, it charges with an automatic charger and starts quickly. SO: I've now cut the wires nearest the RR and will replaceit as it's the older offending part. HOWEVER, given the Stator readings, apparently not to theOHM spec I've read elsewhere on the forum (.4ohm). Leads me to believe this component might also be damaged? I'd appreciate any feedback.
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