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About BartmanEH

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    Pearl Cosmic Black........ "You are the best" (Nacho)
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  • Location
    Ottawa, Canada
  • In My Garage:
    er, shed: 2006 Black Interceptor ABS

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  1. [Old post I know but people reference this stuff for years] Do not apply caliper lube or grease to the backs of the brake pads. This is not in the service manual for a reason and our bike's brakes differ from car calipers in this way. More info here: http://www.southbayriders.com/forums/threads/140517/#post-1930527 quote: " you NEVER put grease on brake pads) It also causes the grease to wick into the porous pad material (ruining the pads) straight through to the rotor surface when the back of the pad has been drilled. Some pads are made like this. "
  2. I have the Powerbronze hugger and it is not ideal either. After few thousand miles, it's own vibration caused this crack: P.S. why is this the only forum where basic things like making a picture smaller are so hard to do?
  3. Something in the order of $80/pair maybe? I'm Canadian and need to add 40% to that :-(
  4. I edited the post above and updated it based on this year's fluid change experience.
  5. From the album Brakes

  6. There are no expected gains until I get my custom dyno tune for my PC3. It does look nice and spaceship like. For now it goes on the list of cheap cosmetic mods.
  7. You'll be fine until winter, no problem.
  8. But of course. See here. I credit Switchblade with the idea.
  9. As a follow up to this, I synchronized my starter valves this morning. Here's the before picture of my homemade differential manometer: And here's the picture after I synchronized them: I also calibrated my homemade manometer the day before with my vacuum pump with gauge. I found that if I applied 20 cmHg of vacuum to one of the four lines, it would displace the ATF vertically about 90 cm in that one line relative to the other 3 which I temporarily connected together. Some quick conversions and calculations later, this means that 10 mmHg would show as a vertical differential of 9 cm = 3.54". I have figured out that the peg board with it's 1 in hole spacing would show a 1 in differential of ATF (hole-to-hole) which equals 2.82 mmHg (10/3.54=2.82). It's been 14,000km (8,700mi) since I last synchronized the starter valves. Looking at the picture before I sync'd them, I estimate that the worst offset (#2 vs #3) was different by 7.5" of ATF = 7.5 x 2.82 = ~21 mmHg which isn't really that bad since that's within the offset limit permitted for the fifth gen anyway, right? The service manual for our sixth gen doesn't specify a tolerance for what the maximum differential should be. Also note for us Power Commander types, I used the Dynojet Power Commander software to monitor the idle speed and kept adjusting it to 1,200 RPM for the synchronizing procedure. My VFR's tach gauge is very accurate as it turns out. I could've used the bike's tach in the end - when the needle was sitting just one division above 1,000 RPM, the PC software was reporting about 1,200 RPM.
  10. I went ahead and insulated the top of the air box too: I'm planning to get a dyno tune for my Power Commander 3 and this seemed like a cheap and easy mod to help get cooler and hence more dense air into the air box.
  11. From the album Air Box

  12. From the album Air Box

  13. No water will enter the air box, mine has never had any water in it. It has been gone for almost 5 years..There's no doubt that water enters the air box: This photo was taken after a 9 day ride around Lake Superior that included gravel roads in the rain. The dirt and gravel dust covers the entire flapper shelf and snorkel innards and extended a bit around the inside of the lid of the air box. It's been cleaned which is why you only see the dirt in the not-easily-accessible parts. After my ride around The Rock (Newfoundland) in 2012, I cleaned out fine gravel from around the air filter which was dragged in through the snorkel and de-flappered vent. I'm sure Honda designed our bikes to handle some drops of water etc.