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Mac Morgan

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About Mac Morgan

  • Rank
    Club Racer
  • Birthday 12/23/1945

Profile Information

  • Location
    Hockessin, DE
  • In My Garage:
    98 VFR800, 04 VTR1000, 77 BMW R100RS, Bultaco Streaker, RD400LC, KLX250, Ford Focus RS, 1952 Vincent
  1. Rearsets for 5th gen.?

    Once upon a time Harris in England made rear sets for the gen.5 but they're as rare as hens teeth. Don't bother writing them, no longer made.
  2. Chinese plastic

    If you're looking for something that fits, forget Chinese fairings! Looks good but tabs break, paint peels and they crack easily. Stick with OEM if you can find it. At least try airtech in CA.
  3. Lower bearing stuck in head-stock

    Don't know what you're working but take a dremel tool and using a small carbide bit, grind a slot through the race- you are going to throw it away? Then you can take a pin driver and get it out.
  4. Front forks.Aaaahhhh!!!!!

    I've owned 2 gen 5 since 1999. I've had all the issues common to the species but still think it's one of the best bikes I've ever ridden and owned. I sold my oldest one last year to make room for another project. As for the forks, I've never been 100% satisfied until I installed a set of Jamie Daugherty's adjustable dampers last year. He sent me a set of springs even though I had already upped the rate a couple of years ago. At the same time I dropped the steering stem to check the bearings. I have a set of tapered bearings but didn't install them. I thought the races had been hammered and was feeling a bit of notchy but what I found was a bunch of hardened grease. After cleaning everything up and following the service manual's instructions, the steering feels great. Jamie's instructions suggest 5wt. suspension oil and a couple of clicks on the damper setting. I won't say it improved the bike to Ohlins standards but the difference was very noticeable. In the past I've installed RaceTech's valuing on a couple of bikes. On my VTR1000 I ended going back to the OEM valuing with stiffer springs. I am sure some experimentation with different shim stacks can fine tune the front end but how many times do you want to take the forks apart. Jamie's kit does it all and he usually answers the phone and answers emails.
  5. Maybe time for a bit of lubrication? Never had a issue with either of mine.
  6. Not sure where the bike came from but I've rebuilt a lot of carbs and a pair from an airhead BMW from Texas had a lot of dried brown stuff in the float bowls. Some of it comes from contaminates in the gas. If the bike's been sitting, check the tank with a good led light and see what's inside. Metal Rescue (from Amazon) is a great product for getting rid of rust. Good luck.
  7. Rear Brake Locking After Pressing Pedal

    Just a thought here but do you all ever look at the factory shop manual? It got all the routing info for cables and hoses. Also shows how to rebuild every component on the bike and is downloadable on this site. Most of the brake problems I've run in to are the result of not changing the brake fluid. I did find a de-laminated brake hose on 40 year old CB400/4 as well as a stuck caliper piston. Make sure the return orifice in the mastercylinder isn't plugged. You can use. .009 guitar string to clear it... carefully! I just had my front end apart on my second 98 VFR in order to service/rebuild the forks, clean the brake calipers and was thinking of finally installing new brake lines. I've never, ever had a problem with either bike, both 15 yrs. old. While cleaning the calipers I was surprise how clean the pistons were but also how much brake dust was in all the nooks and crannies. All six of the pistons easily pushed back into the calipers with only finger pressure. The oem pads had plenty of life left so they got reinstalled. I think you can do an easy job of cleaning the calipers up using either HondaBrite (actually S100) or aluminum wheel cleaner and a good stiff brush. By the way, the notchy feeling from the steering head bearings turned out to be the 15 year old hardened grease on the bearing races. Cleaned and retorqued (good idea to use the special socket from Honda for that- don't know how you'd ever get it correct without it), it feels like a new bike. Also, installed Jamie Daugherty's damper kit. For the money, one of the best kits out there. Mac Morgan
  8. Not sure what causes a gen 5 to have a "dangerous" front suspension or what a "just right" cornering position is. I've yet to find any anomalies on any of the VFRs I've ridden... other then first interceptor which I trashed at Summit Point during a WERA 3hr. race back in the early 80s. The 16" front wheel/tire made the bike very sustable to oversteering. Maybe you could expand on what happened just after the "just right cornering position" caused the "dangerous" front suspension to twist on dry pavement?
  9. The-Thinking The Wiring Harness On Gen. 5

    I've been thinking of tearing into the wiring harness to look for corroded wiring, poorly designed connections and grounds. I have 2 98s, one I bought new and another from a friend who quit riding. I've experienced the normal gremlins; fried rr connector, unexplained resetting of the clock and trip meter- once traced to a loose ground connection at the battery. It possible that the stator is starting to fail although both pass the the ohm test. I'm sure there's a bit of planned obsolescence built into these bikes and as they age more and more components will fail.
  10. Recently a post regarding KTM simplifying their wiring harness hit the net. Has anyone torn into their wiring harness with the thought of doing the same?
  11. 5Th Gen Suspension Modifcations

    Good piece on suspension. Been riding a 98 since new and now have 2. Installed RaceTech valves in my VTR a few years back but found the combination of .95 springs and over-aggressive valving too stiff for our back country roads but now I have a complete VTR fork set with the RaceTech valving to play with. Mac Morgan Hockessin, DE.
  12. Ultrasonic Cleaner

    Ummm... Ever try Berrymans carb and Parts Cleaner? Walmart, PB, Autozone, etc.
  13. Steering Head Bearings +Races Question

    Just an FYI regarding bearings. You guys are throwing around the term "needle bearings" as being the same as "tapered roller bearings". They are not the same. If you look inside your rear suspension linkage you will see needle bearings; if you look at the wheel bearings on a BMW R100rs (or your F150 Ford PU truck) you will see tapered roller bearings. If you look at the steering head bearings Honda RC213 MotoGP bike you will see ball bearings.
  14. My New Fifth Gen - Worklog

    Having owned a 98 since new, I've had plenty of time to deal with its eccentricities. My original rr which toasted the plastic housing was probably caused by poor connections. Some battery terminal issues the same. I replaced the original rr with a Roadstercycle Mosfet unit which runs cooler then the diode OEM unit. On a recent 1000 trip I had the clock and odometer resetting and erratic temperature readout - finally everything just quit at a stop sign. Turned out to be a loose neg. battery terminal. Make sure you have GOOD CONNECTIONS everywhere and use dielectric grease! My original rr is now on my 89 VTR 250 doing great. I replaced the overheated terminals and the plastic housing and plugged it in. A small computer fan attached to the face of the rr will help cool it down by about 20-30 degrees. A lot of manufacturers us the same rr. BMW's GS800 has their rr attached to an outside frame rain, pretty much in the air stream. Good idea to get everything cleaned up - "cleanliness in next to godliness." Wheel cleaner, toothbrushes, scrub brushes and hot water work well for cleaning up calipers and around rotors. Ditzler wax and grease remover is great for removing road tar and chain-oil from the bike. Speaking of chains and sprockets, the oem chain and sprocket kit by either DID or RK is around $260+/-. A lot of aftermarket kits use a hardened aluminum rear sprocket which will not last! The oem front sprocket had a rubber damper vulcanized onto both sides - probably quiets things down, and is superior to any after aftermarket part. As for maintainance, both Honda and Regina (a chain mfg from Italy and supplier to Rossi's MotoGP Yamaha, recommend 80-90wt gear lube. It makes quite a mess but really works. How often? How 'bout every 250 miles! At 16,000 miles, my original chain was starting to emit red oxidation (rust debris) after 200 miles of riding, meaning the pins and rollers were gone. I found a bottle of gear lube and it really made a difference (and a mess) over the next 500 miles. BRAKES and clutch hydraulics : Fluid change every year! Also, chain gunk on clutch rod can build up in sprocket housing and cause sticking. If fluid is milky, water/moisture has invaded the system. I use Valvolene DOT4 - good product and price. Good luck with your VFR, their great bikes! Mac Morgan Hockessin, DE Quick FYI: Got a Spiegler Front/rear brake line kit with choice of line and fitting colors from Sportbiketrackgear.com. Also included a can of brake/contact cleaner and EBC DOT4 brake fluid and free shipping for $350.00. Ask for Nick Hande. Great service!
  15. Have a Dekevic SS hanging on my garage wall - bought it about 4-5 yrs ago. After spending a couple of hours trying to get it to fit (BTW,the stock system goes right on), I fired the bike up only to hear exhaust leaks from every cylinder. The front header pipes were 1/2" out of alignment and the rears wouldn't fit into their spigots without some help. That's why it's on the garage wall! I do have one of their SS long oval slip-ons (the connector pipe's fit to the stock header had to be enlarged for it to "slip on"). I called to complain but got the "cold shoulder" treatment. But the muffler does look good, sounds good without being obnoxious. Just thought you all would like to know. Mac Morgan