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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/04/2016 in all areas

  1. My recently acquired 2007 Anniversary bike came with a 45 tooth rear sprocket. In addition to the regular speedo error, this increased it even more. With my other VFR's (2004 and 2008), I've always just done the math in my head. However, I hate math and the sprocket puts more miles on the odo that I'm actually running. For the first time since Al Gore invented the internet, I decided to put on a speedometer correction device. The unit that everybody's heard of is Healtech's Speedo Healer. However, there are other options. I chose 12oclockLabs SpeedoDRD for three reasons. 1. It's cheaper 2. It costs less 3. I didn't pay as much The unit doesn't look like much at first glance, however, it is completely sealed and does its job well. Programming is simple. Installation is stupid simple. I purchased my SpeedoDRD from WickedRacing via eBay for $70 shipped. The best price I could find on the Speedo Healer was $110. Since there hasn't been much written about the SpeedoDRD, I thought I'd give it a try and review it. Installation: Pull off your left side fairing. Optional: Remove the coolant overflow bottle. Trace the speedo sensor cable back to the connectors. The speedo sensor is the TDK unit sitting right beside the clutch slave. The connectors on 2007 and up 6th gens are at the lower front of the engine, tucked in a large plastic cover. The connectors on 2002-2006 are tucked behind the frame above the TDK speedo sensor, IIRC. Pull the connectors apart and snap them into the SpeedoDRD. Run the SpeedoDRD somewhere that you can access it. Put everything back together. This took me less than 10 minutes, including hunting down a screw that bounced away and ended up under the other VFR's cover. Location: The only negative I can give on this little unit is the length of the cable. For the 2007 and up models, it isn't long enough to leave the unit under the seat, which would be the obvious location to access without having to remove the fairing every time. For the 2002-2006 models, the cable should be plenty long to place it under the seat. This negative for my 2007 bike actually made me decide on a location that I can access without even removing the seat. I ran it up to the fairing bracket that sits right below the VIN plate on the frame. The unit just sits behind there minding its own business, protected by the fairing. If I want to access it to look at the saved max speed or to reprogram it, I just reach in and flip it out. The unit is sealed from the weather by heavy clear plastic so it should do fine there. Programming: Verify how far off your speedo is. I used a nice phone app called Ulysse Speedometer. Turn the key on. Hold down the button and watch the LEDs flash as indicated by the instructions. Let go of the button. Rinse and repeat a couple more times as indicated by instructions (written and video on website). I needed negative 9.5% programmed into mine to cover the OEM error and the larger rear sprocket together.
    1 point
  2. So bring along some good oil for them to put in instead of them using the Honda stuff.
    1 point
  3. I installed a LSL kit. The new ST1100 cables I used on my 5th gen are too tight and rub on the inside of the right fairing... I need to re-drill the handlebar alignment hole and try to re-align so their is no interference. I would have liked to use slightly longer cables; the ST1100 are longer than stock 5th gen cables... I don't know if the ST1300 is a bit longer than the 1100.
    1 point
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