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Showing most liked content since 07/19/2017 in all areas

  1. 20 points

    From the album Michigan to Colorado 2012

    At Independence Pass, CO on the way to Aspen during a day ride while at the MSTA's 2012 STAR event in Avon, CO. From MI, we took a northern route from via 95% secondary roads. Saw "real" America and met unique Americans.

    © ©2012 AnnieR

  2. 11 points

    From the album Aeolo

    Sedbergh- Garsdale
  3. 9 points

    From the album My VFR

    © &copyvfdiscussion.com

  4. 6 points
    Just so happened where I was walking back to the Viffer, I saw this angle of the viffer in the pool of water, so wondered if it would make for a decent photo, not being a fan of the cell phone photo ,had me wondering. I think it turned out ok.
  5. 6 points
    A couple of people have expressed some frustration over the 8th Gen oil change procedure, so I thought I would quickly make a rundown with pictures to help anyone who has questions in future. It took me roughly 30 minutes end-to-end the second time I did this. First, and foremost, you need the tools... Allen key (included in tool-kit) "Phillips" (actually JIS) screwdriver (included in tool-kit) 10mm socket 17mm socket Torque wrench Oil filter wrench (do *not* skip this - Honda P/N 07HAA-PJ70101 or 07AMA-MFJA100) ...as well as the consumables. 4qt Honda GN4 10w30 (3.3qt used) 1 Crush Washer (Honda P/N 94109-12000) 1 Oil Filter (Honda P/N 15410-MFJ-D01) Notes "screw-type" pins are removed by unscrewing them until the middle plastic part separates from the body of the pin visibly. Pull outward to remove. Installation is reverse of removal; press middle part in to secure. "pin-type" pins are removed by pressing the middle of the pin in, pull outward to remove. For installation, pull the middle plastic pin piece so it is poking out of the pin. Push the pin body into the hole and press the middle of the pin in to secure. All this makes sense the second you touch them. A US "Standard" model was used to document this procedure. The portion about the lower radiator bolt only seems to apply to AC and II AC models (America/Canada.) I am unsure if you need to do that portion on the ROTW models. It will be very apparent if so, when you go to remove the filter. 1. Remove left-lower-side fairing. 3 allen screws - front one is the 'smaller' one 2 "screw-type" plastic pins 1 "pin-type" plastic pin Pull reward to unhook from side fairing 2. Remove right-lower-side fairing. 2 allen screws - front one is the 'smaller' one 1 "screw-type" plastic pins 1 "pin-type" plastic pin Pull reward to unhook from side fairing 3. Remove radiator grill cover. 2 "pin-type" plastic pins 2 allen screws Pull top of grill forward to unseat from rubber retainers Pull upward and remove, may have to slightly manipulate left and ride side fairings 4. Remove 17mm oil drain bolt; drain oil. Trash the old crush washer. 5. Remove 10mm bolt securing lower part of the lower radiator (accessible via left-hand side.) 6. Loosen oil filter (using the oil filter wrench; the filter will be quite tight on your first oil change!) 7. Pull lower portion of lower radiator forward, and remove the oil filter through the left-hand side of the headers as shown. 8. Pour some oil in your new filter, and use your finger to lubricate the o-ring on the filter with engine oil. 9. Install oil filter reverse of the removal. Tighten oil filter to 19ft-lb. 10. Reinstall oil fill bolt with new crush washer. Tighten to 22ft-lb. 11. Fill the bike with 3.2qt of oil. Use the marks on the side of the bottle to roughly gauge the .2qt from the fourth bottle. 12. Start the bike for 3-5 minutes. Let stand for 2 minutes. 13. Have someone stand the bike upright, and ensure oil is between the lines in the sight glass. Add an additional .1qt if needed to bring near top fill line. 14. Ensure there are no leaks. 15. Install the lower radiator's lower 10mm bolt to secure 16. Install the radiator grill reverse of removal. Plastic pins in the bottom, allen bolts on top. 17. Reinstall right-lower-side fairing reverse of removal. Ensure the rear portion of the fairing hooks onto the bike. 18. Reinstall the left-lower-side fairing reverse of removal. Let me know if something was not clear or if anyone has any questions. A downloadable/printable PDF version can be found here: http://www.thtanner.com/files/2014-2015 Honda VFR800F Oil Change Guide.pdf
  6. 5 points
    Mileage is a loose standard because wear depends on so many variables... A more accurate standard of chain wear is after the 3rd adjustment because that is undeniable evidence that the factory installed grease is beginning to fail to lube the critical pin roller junction hidden behind the X ring... the length of the chain is growing because of this metal to metal wear... I can not call a chain serviceable that is grinding metal... it's like saying that a dry bearing that runs ruff is acceptable... the net result is another 2 to 3% drop in RWHP as more energy is lost grinding metal behind the X ring... This is what we don't see behind the X rings... metal to metal wear every time we adjust the chain that eats into our engine's available HP... a new pin measures 206.5 and wears down to 205.5 at the 8K mile mark... looks good to the naked eye but multiply that 1 thousand of an inch times 108 links and you have 108 thousands of an inch wear or about the range of the green marks provided by Honda's wear gauge... 202.8 show the very visible wear at the 12K mile mark... the pins are turning red from extreme heat of grinding dry metal... a chain in this condition may consume up to 6 to 8% of our RWHP... not to mention it may snap into and cause case damage... Honda sticker provided a handy guide to monitor chain wear... stay with in the green and you'll be looking for a new chain and sprockets at the 8 to 10K mile mark... What we are lubing are external roller and between the roller and the sprockets (red area in my drawing)... we are not lubing the X rings nor behind the X rings so any oil applied in that effort is a waste and will only fling off...
  7. 4 points
    Lock set finally arrived from Honda so the panniers could be keyed to match my ignition key, these oem panniers are much smaller than any others I've had on bikes, but I do like the fit and finish of them.
  8. 4 points
    Peppy is an understatement when it comes to RVFR's 5th gen - I rode it. I was lucky enough to hang with RVFR [Jay] for a bit last week while I was in WA for a few days of Califonia Superbike School at a local track called The Ridge. Way, way too many adventures took place around this trip to list here, so I'll save details about the riding and VFR-surgery for other threads. While out on a ride through the beautiful country in his neck of the nape, Jay was gracious and trusting enough to trade bikes with me for 20 or so miles of sweeping turns through a rural area. His 5th gen let me know it was getting down to business from 5000rpm to 6000rpm, then at 6000rpm, twisting the throttle became directly proportional to acceleration - this motorcycle ripped on demand from 6000-10000 rpm. I didn't go over 10000 because manners dictate that one ought not wring out a friend's bike when generously proffered, plus, there was nothing to prove and I was already having plenty of fun. When on the gas, Jay's 5th gen was way more exhilarating than any VFR I've ridden. Jay is spot on when he describes his motorcycle having improved driveablility, but calling his bike 'driveable' is like saying a BMW S1000RR is 'brisk'. When debriefing after trading back to our respective bikes, I used the word 'harmonized' to describe Jay's motorcycle. My 5th gen gets going just fine, thank you, I've no complaints, but compared to mine, Jay's adds more than a little snarling, leaping acceleration to the equation. For those who haven't read this entire thread and those who won't, he is running a relatively obscure large aperture K&N air filter, a high mount Staintune slipon, and Two Brothers Racing headers on a stock engine with a Power Commander III that has been dyno tuned to 112hp. A bit of context: I owned a 1998 5th gen VFR 800 with a Two Brothers slipon for two years in 1998-1999. I've owned a 4th gen VFR 750 for two years and left it bone stock. I've owned two different 6th gen VFRs, and I've put 14000 miles on my current bike, a 2001 5th gen I bought a year ago with 32000 miles on it. This current 5th gen has a Pipercross air filter, catless ceramic coated 1998/1999 headers, a high mount Staintune slipon, and a Power Commander III that has been dyno tuned to a whopping 99hp with very smooth, linear power and torque curves. I am very optimistic about the headers Jay and Gabe are developing for the VFR 800. Cheers all.
  9. 4 points
    Action shot from a buddy's GoPro as he passes my slow butt at the Ridge Motorsports Park.
  10. 3 points
    Hello All, A quick guide on how I refreshed a K&N air filter on the 5th Gen. This is not the only way to do it and may not even be the right way - it's the way I did it and it came out great. First you have to remove the tank and the air box cover. No pics of that but the front left screw on the air box was a b@stard. It's also usually the most rusted (exposed to salt spray) and most likely to strip, so go easy. I bought new stainless screws m5 x 20mm x 7 units panhead, if anyone is interested. Thats when you get the first look at your air filter. Mine looked like it had been there since the Ark touched dry land but I was pleasantly surprised to find it was K&N. I know many members don't rate these very highly and personally I wouldn't have installed it but this is a budget machine and rechargeable filters fit the bill. It it was loaded with crud and insects. Some of these bits had combined to form solid big chunks. Nasty! I also removed the velocity stacks and bottom air box housing to do a valve check (in another thread). They have markings on them showing orientation for reassembly. The stacks are held in by blind shoulder bolts one of which had to be drilled out. Used an old Travis Perkins bolt extractor to get it done. Having completely removed the air box I now turned to cleaning the air filter. First job was to turn it over and gently tap the edge so the loose bits could fall out. Then I ran a vaccum cleaner over each please to suck out whatever I could. Make sure you vacuum the top of the filter to lift dirt out the way it went in. Vacuuming the bottom gets dirt trapped in deeper. The amount of debris removed through these methods truly surprised me. Most of the grit was ingrained so I decided to wash the filter in warm water with liquid laundry detergent. Yes, laundry detergent. The filter media is a cotton gauze and can be washed with the same stuff as your cotton under-crackers. Liquid is is better than powder detergent because the latter sometimes gets stuck in the fibres whereas the former is completely dissolved and washes out. I let it soak in a strong solution for a couple hours, throwing some dishwash soap in to dissolve the greasier bits. This is the cr@p that washed off easy. This is what floated to the surface during the soak. Best way to get rid of it is to overflow the bucket and the crud spill out over the top. Otherwise you lift the filter out of the bucket right through the dirt you just removed, thereby reinserting it. This is what sank to the bottom of the bucket and looked like dense, dirty beach sand. Then the filter was hosed off in the shower (don't tell the missus) and immersed in a fresh bucket of soapy water. I got a soft long-bristle nylon brush and set to working it along each pleat with soap, gradually loosening more crud. Between the gentle brushing and tapping this is what came out. The other filter belongs to my other bike. Thought I'd do them both at once. With the oil and dirt removed the filter took on a dull grey appearance. I was pleased with how clean it came out and inspected it closely for any hidden trapped dirt. There was none so it was left to dry overnight. The next day I applied genuine K&N oil pleat by pleat using their squeezy bottle applicator. Some say it is just normal ATF, and they might be right, but I'm not clever enough to know for sure and it wasn't exactly expensive so I used the real deal. This pic shows the difference between oiled pleats and dry grey pleats. When the first side was done I flipped it over and started again. Note how I am halfway through on the second side and you can see some oil from underneath seeping through. Some say if you leave it 15 minutes it will soak throughout but I thought it was still a bit too dry so applied oil on both sides. The final pic shows filter fully oiled. It still had some dull spots but those got redder after a while when the oil wicked through. Hope this helps people doing the same thing out. I'm no expert but believe any rechargeable filter could be done the same way. Just remember that dirt is removed the same direction it went in otherwise you're driving it further into the fibres. Stray
  11. 3 points
    I'll start by stating that generally speaking, I'm a Kawasaki guy. I recently downsized my bike collection, which included a modded Kawasaki ZRX 1100, a 2006 VFR800, and a 2015 KTM Superduke 1290r. To free up cash and work on my tendency to want to accumulate shit, I decided to sell them and have a single bike. Because I loved the 06 VFR and I saw a great deal on a leftover, red 2014 (not the deluxe), I bought the 2014 VFR with a high level of confidence that I'd love it. One of the best do-it-all bikes ever. After breaking it in, I got the first oil change done, and rode it to Sturgis for the first time, from the Oregon coast. I have 4000 miles on the bike after a month, and on the last day of my trip I rode 800 miles home. A new record. So I feel I have a good basis to share some hopefully useful info. I've ridden for 35 years, and have owned streetbikes by all the major Japanese brands, including multiple Kawasakis and Hondas. I've also owned bikes by Ducati, BMW and KTM. My scores are completely subjective, and are given in the scope of the intended purpose of the bike, e.g., if I give the handling a 9, it's clearly not going to handle nearly as well as a pure sportbike. I consider it a sporty bike that you can tour. I purchased the Honda saddlebags, which I'll also touch on. Comfort/Riding position - 8 Considering the bike's intended purpose, I feel the riding position is versatile and fairly comfortable. Even being 6'2", I feel the footpeg height was fairly comfortable, even with my 800 mile ride. Having said that, I'd consider lowering them when I've done adequate research and if the price is right. But I don't feel it's essential. The bars did feel a bit too low for me, and I felt a bit too stretched forward. I purchased the Honda risers, and I couldn't be happier. Perfect riding position now, and they look seamless. I had a set of Helibars on my 06, and I prefer this position to that one. The risers get a 10 out of 10, though they're a bit costly. I got them online on the Eeebay for about $100. The suspension strikes a fairly good balance between handling and comfort, though the rear suspension could use a bit less compression damping. The ride feels a bit harsh on occasion, mainly for this reason. I'm 170 pounds without gear, FYI. I may get the suspension redone if it continues to feel bothersome and finances permit. The clutch pull feels a tad harder than I recall with the 06, but it's only noticeable during stop and go riding. While I noticed a slight bit of heat from with engine on occasion when going slow or stopped, it was never a concern, even when riding in 100+ temps. The seat felt just as horrible as the one on my 06, until I read about setting the front of the seat to the higher position, and the rear at the lower position. This made the seat feel much flatter, and improved comfort 100%. I was using an Airhawk on the seat, and after making this change I was able to remove it. I made it 400 miles before I started to have to move around a bit for comfort, but even then it was mostly a non-issue. I don't feel the Airhawk is needed anymore, which is saying something. The straps that are hidden under the rear pillion are a really nice touch, as they're strong and convenient when used, but can be tucked under the seat when not desired, which gives a nice, clean look. A nice touch. Style, fit and finish - 8.5 Fit and finish is typically where I've always expected Honda to shine over their Japanese competitors, though I feel the gap has certainly closed. Switchgear and such have the typical Honda precise feel and function. Cosmetics and tolerances were excellent. Instrumentation looked modern, and the tachometer being the focal point is appreciated. The finish of the paint and parts gives the impression of a very expensive, high-quality bike. The subtle and classy looking Honda tank badges look great...far better than spelling out Honda. On my trip I had several people mention that they thought it was a Ducati or a BMW. Very classy, and modern-looking without too many angular lines (unlike my Superduke). The lack of graphics makes the bike look sexy and classy. The rear wheel, of course, is boner material. Too bad it couldn't be revealed a bit more. I dinged the score a bit because the paint, while beautifully applied, scratches easily. I've been extremely careful with the paint, including having given it a wax job, and there are already quite a few small scratches after just a month of ownership. Bummer. Handling - 8.5 This is one of the bike's strengths. It tracks like it's on rails, and feels a bit lighter to ride in the twisties than expected. It's easy to toss from side to side, and ground clearance is impressive. Easy to change lines mid-corner, and it feels sporty and very willing to be ridden aggressively. Very stable in the corners, yet responsive. On the highway, it is very stable and tracks extremely well with no twitchiness. Braking was strong and predictable, though my front brake feels a bit spongy. I'm going to bleed it and see if that helps. Engine - 7.5 This was easily the biggest disappointment to me, as it doesn't feel quite as strong as my 2006 anywhere in the powerband. Overall power feels a bit soft, and the engine seems to lack character. The power feels linear to a fault, as on the 06 I could feel a bump in power from the V-tec, and up to redline. The feel of the engine makes it feel more like an electric motor than an engine. The character of the exhaust tone is also uninspiring. Passing generally requires a downshift or two, which is a bit of a letdown. I enjoyed the V-tec on the 06, as the sound when it engaged was fun, and I felt a bit more power kick in. It made the bike feel more fun and it felt more spirited. On the 2014, the sound is there but I don't feel the power kick I got from the 06. I heard Honda tried to smooth the transition to the V-tec on this generation to make it more predictable, but to me they've lost what made the V-tec feel special and cool. In addition, the V-tec on this bike feels less predictable than on the '06. In top gear, if I'm cruising and happen to hit the V-tec threshold, the change in engine character and response felt a bit alarming at first, almost as if I'd downshifted. So I'd have to say that the 2014 has made me a non-fan of V-tec. It's hard to imagine why Honda didn't do anything noteworthy to boost the power of the bike when reintroducing it. Whether it was a bump in cc or another approach, just another 10-15 horsepower or so would be perfect for me. The fact that they did nothing to give the engine a bit of a boost is very disappointing to me. Even the alleged changes to boost midrange feel unnoticeable to me. It feels like they're resting on their laurels a bit, especially with newer bikes from competitors having much livelier engines. Honda missed the ball here, IMO. It's similar to how Suzuki brought back the SV650. A great bike that deserved reintroduction, but they put almost no effort into improving the power or character of the engine. Vibration is present virtually all the time, but it's slight and mostly isn't obtrusive. Even after my 800 mile day, I didn't have any issues with numb hands or such. The exception to this is between 4200-4900 rpm, where the vibes become more noticeable and would certainly affect my enjoyment of the bike a bit if my freeway cruising speed kept me within that range. My typical cruising speed keeps me around 5200 and higher, so it's largely a non-issue for me. I also feel a very mild stumble at times around 2500 rpm, so when accelerating from a stop I occasionally feel it hesitate. I ordered a Two-bros slip-on exhaust in hopes that the slight power increase will be detectable, and that the exhaust tone will make the bike feel more muscular and aggressive. If I feel it will be beneficial after trying the slip-on alone, I may also get a PC and have a custom map done to cure that stumble an see if more power can be found. Gas mileage is excellent. I'm averaging 52 mpg overall, and averaged just over 40 on my trip home, even given my 90-95 mph cruising speed through all of Montana. With the relatively large tank, a 200 mile range on a tank was easily achievable with any modicum of self-control. My buddy on his V-Rod had to stop for fuel far more frequently, having a safe range of only 120 miles or so. Having said all that, on my trip, with a tank bag, both saddlebags, and a small rear bag, I hit 131 mph, though acceleration had slowed rather quickly after 125. I may have been able to hit 135, but it was close to maxing out. Pretty damn good, especially with the bags adding air resistance. I assure you, this was only done on a closed course. ;) Miscellaneous I wish the gearing was just a tad wider, particularly that first gear wasn't so tall. If I wasn't an experienced rider, it would be far too easy to stall the bike coming off a stop. When the chain/sprockets get enough wear, I'm going to go up one on the rear sprocket, even though it will raise the highway revs a tad. The placement of the horn button is not only illogical and unintuitive, it is dangerous. It's virtually impossible to press unless you shift your hand, and if you're trying to avoid something, you don't want to be distracted by having to move your clutch hand while you're likely trying to downshift while avoiding someone. I nearly got taken out on the trip back home, and I avoided it only because I predicted what the driver might do, and I was ready to evade. But when I went to press the horn, I missed it even though I'd practiced with it. And by moving the horn button they also made it harder to activate the turnsignals. Your thumb is too high for the turnsignal, but too low for the horn. Nothing falls under one's thumb directly, so it's an absurd design. Inexcusable. I love the saddlebag mounts being incorporated to the bodywork and being so unobtrusive. It is a wonderful improvement from the ugly brackets that were necessary to mount bags on my 06. Speaking of saddlebags, let's start with the pluses. They look nice and clean on the bike, they're easy to mount and remove, and the bike still looks very sporty with them. Having said that, Honda apparently hired drunken chimpanzees to design and manufacture the bags. The bags don't align well when closed (the gap in the clamshell is inconsistent), and one bag leaked quickly in the rain. They scuff in a stiff wind. They're a bit small. I was annoyed that I was expected to put the reflectors on myself (including DRILLING), until I realized this gave me the option of a completely clean look by not installing them. I'll take my chances by riding without reflectors to have that clean, tasteful look. Aside from that, it is simply absurd and insulting that Honda forces you to buy separate locks for the bags, then require you to try to key them to your lock, then install them. Ridiculous. It took me a few hours, mainly because I was afraid of trying to put the locks into the bags after keying them. The instructions and pictures weren't clear to me on this part. What Honda should have done was sell them with locks installed and keys. Simple. If you wanted to key them the same as your bike, THEN Honda could sell me the locks and tell me how to key them and swap them out. To sell bags with no locks installed whatsoever is ridiculous, especially without some cap or cover in the space for the locks. So, imagine my surprise when I picked up my bags the night before leaving to Sturgis and saw ugly holes where the locks were supposed to be. Honda apparently expects me to pay $850 for a set of bags, then expects me to have to go through the hassle of drilling holes in the bags to install the reflectors, learn how to key locks, install the locks, etc. Not to mention that my keys don't turn completely smoothly on one bag, and I don't have any idea how to fix it. Is it user error? Probably. Should I have had to try to do it? No way. I bought a BMW 1200 two years ago, and the bags had locks installed, and were keyed to my bike in 20 minutes by the dealer. Honda can't do that? I just bought the seat cowl (it's not being included was part of the great price, I guess). While it looks great and is easily installed, I'm surprised there is no seat pad where your butt may rub against the cowl. You're essentially sitting against the plastic if you slide backward. I just installed it and haven't even used it yet, but that also seems like a careless design, as it will scratch as scuff as easily as the bags. Overall I'm still very happy with the bike overall, and there are some tweaks I'll be making, like the slip-on exhaust and perhaps a Power Commander and lower pegs. I'm disappointed with Honda in general, however, as it seems they've shown a lack of regard for their customers in terms of their design on this bike. If I'd paid full price, I'd have felt somewhat dissatisfied the overall engine performance. For the price I paid, $7,999 out the door (with no sales tax in Oregon, suckas!) I'm only a tad disappointed in the engine, rather than bummed. Aside from the engine being a bit of a letdown, I love it and I'd buy it again in a heartbeat at that price. At full price, I would have gone with Kawasaki's Ninja 1000 for the additional features, more modern design, and power, though the Honda's beautiful lines appeal to me more. Having said that, I'm gonna ride the hell out of this thing and hope to pile on a lot of miles.
  12. 3 points
  13. 3 points
    For all of Honda's bragging about "shut lines", the alignment of those bits under the wind screen is crap.
  14. 3 points
    I gotchu. Not necessarily my best work but whatever.
  15. 3 points
    I prefer Motul chain paste allied to the inside of the chain... I believe it's the smartest product on the market and the right solution everyone has been looking to *properly* lube their chain and sprockets because it brushes a layer of white grease like from the factory that clings with no flings... Motul Chain Paste... squeeze the white grease from the tube and load the brush... Clings and no Flings...
  16. 3 points
    Had a great time showing Sfdownhill the neighborhood, talk about a great day, 324 miles just tooling around. Epic.
  17. 3 points
    Waiting for the off at Devils Bridge Ribblehead Viaduct Hawes Buttertubs Pass as used in 2014 Tour de France Tan Hill Inn Highest Inn in England Garsdale Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. 2 points
  19. 2 points
    Thank you so much Auspanglish. Done! there was a short circuiting in the common ground connector. During my first inspection yesterday, I did not remove the pins since it looked OK. Following your recommendation, I removed the pins and observed the small short circuiting. Not really melted but burnt enough to create troubles. I coated the damaged pin with pewter. It works fine now. FYI, this is a VFR 800 FI 1998 model. Never got any electrical issues till this year (19 years old). I had to replace both front light bulb female holders (completely burnt), to weld R&R wires since the holder was completely burnt as well. Nothing else. and I ride everyday in Saudi Arabia even when temperature reaches 125 F (51oC). Thanks again
  20. 2 points
    5.5 is because I wasn't at the last one... which only counts as half a ride. :) See you all in a few weeks.
  21. 2 points
    It's all about the upbringing and if guns are part of your life, I guess.... I've shot a lot of bullets from pistols (Walther PPK, Magnum, Sig-Sauer P226, Glock) to police-issue semi's (H&K MP5) to full-on 7.62mm SLR & the new SA80 but nothing came even close to firing 2 x 27mm Mauser cannons at high rate (1700rpm), not even riding a motorcycle!
  22. 2 points
    Some nice bikes in here, white's the way forwards...clearly! Mine was red originally but after a stand still drop I decided to get the whole thing resprayed. I went with later fairing stickers and tank badge
  23. 2 points
    Very nice. My lady once told me that I can only ride one at a time. My response was that she can only wear one pair of shoes at a time. Win me. Beautiful bikes, can't top the NR but here are my pair. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
  24. 2 points
    Sorry guys but the VFR has gone, had three great years with it, probably the best bike Honda never really promoted. Just needed a bit more R&D spending on it and more advertising. One day I will buy another, probably on my retirement. Been a good forum thanks for the info and laughs, see you all later. Carlos
  25. 2 points
    I just read the Service Manual and on page 3-12 and I finally figured out that I have indeed been incorrectly using the manual idle adjustment... ALL THIS TIME, I HAVEN'T BEEN REMOVING THE LEFT UNDER COWL!!! {slaps forehead}
  26. 2 points
    OK -A very important lesson learned today - read the manual carefully !!! It was not the solenoid, nor the electrics, even though I have now gone through every connection and earth I could find and cleaned them up, the only one that did look bad was the stator feed up by the R/R ... even took the starter out, opened it up, cleaned and checked brushes (where length is 12m new - 6mm serviceable - still had 8mm on them) - note you will need to solider in replacements, which I have now got standing by as thought it may have been that. So, after 3 oil drains and 3 days messing around, I bet I am not the 1st VFR crank case virgin to be caught by the little devil that lurks inside , as when you open up the case, a washer will drop out, this sits on the centre pin of the main starter gear drive, the pin will pull out as you take the side cover off. It goes on the INSIDE of the gear not the outside.... as if you do that, you will find that the starter will spin with the cover off but once you put the cover back on, do the bolts up, the starter will jam and you just get the dreaded clicking, so be warned, the washer is also a spacer !!. The clue was in the tile of this post all along, as it was working OK before I changed out the clutch plates. Anyway it is happy days and is she now back up and running sweet, just made it for today's British Superbikes race meet at Thruxton circuit.. the game is on !!
  27. 2 points
    Yep - neatly 30 yrs old and I have had this one for 6 years - 50 mile daily round trip for work, only let me down once with fuel pump failure .. and now this little issue ....so pretty damn good piece of kit...she still will do well over 140mph .. best bike I have had ... love it !!
  28. 2 points
    I bought this DVR from China on eBay and it arrived in less than a week and cost £44. Easy to fit taking a switched feed from the ACC fuse and negative to the battery. It records front and rear in 2 minute files. The tiny size means it fits easily under the seat of an 8th gen and the wires are easy to hide. Footage of part of my trip home from work. I'm happy with the quality but I could have picked a better clip with cars in front of me :) https://youtu.be/cq6JAsFXtBU
  29. 2 points
    Saw this the other day. Blast from the past updated with a few extras. Guy Martin was racing one in a classic race.
  30. 2 points
    It's those $10 head people. You know, the ones that buy $10 helmets.
  31. 2 points
    I believe that the panniers are a touch wider than that of a Gold Wing. In my experience, you have to change your filtering habits a bit. Like leading more with the front so that the back doesn't hit something as you curve around an obstacle. Which I did literally the first day out on my 8th gen. But it hasn't impeded me much except for maybe the ability to follow scooters weaving through tight traffic. The following example video might possibly be someone I happen to know on an 8th gen in NYC traffic... (and note the bonehead at about 1:30 - 1:35).
  32. 2 points
    We get random people asking about our VFRs all the time. It makes me believe Honda failed to market these bikes properly...
  33. 2 points
    My mate has a 3D printer, and when showing me how it worked he came across this already made model for VFR protectors on the site he uses, he was keen to make something so why not these.....work a treat. :) I don't proclaim to know much about 3D printers , but according to him they only cost a few cents in materials...so if you know anyone with a 3D printer, be their friend...ha ha ha :) Fork protector for Honda VFR800 RC79 (2014-) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1566696
  34. 2 points
  35. 2 points
    Ah, thanks, you're too Kind. Oh yes that was a fun few outings huh. need to do this again and again. Your 5th gen runs pretty well, but I'm getting use to how mine runs so now it seems to be the new norm, not that yours is a slouch in any sense of the word, but yea was fun to feel the diffenace . Vfffrrrroooommmmm!!!!! Note to those, yes I'm still working with Gabe on the header build, I have a another dyno run with a clone VFR, then from that I'll have a very good idea where this will head, but for now and in the mean time, since the weather is perfect I'm taking advantage of it. Thanks again to Sfdownhill, for letting me show you the country side. The word "Epic" comes to mind.
  36. 2 points
    And when it's too damn hot to just pass through. Do as the locals and start a Sierra loop first! Bring your swim ware boys and girls...
  37. 2 points
    Nora has some kind of crash protection on the head... I'm gonna try the Triumph protectors (part A9641010), updating here when (if) it works.
  38. 2 points
    A picture speaks a thousand words... and explains nothing!
  39. 2 points
    From the days when men were men and sheep were scared......
  40. 2 points
    A good idea but a bit Nora Batty for me...
  41. 2 points
    Look, the problem here is the chasm between theory and application/practice. The most important and correct thing that Lee said was to find a competent wrench if your throttle is binding or changing during bar movement (and you can't figure it out on your own). The rest of this is becoming a train wreck. The problem is that no matter how "correct" the cable is routed on a motorcycle, the radius of the cable changes in the vicinity of where it curves down, when you move the bars from lock to lock. And it's not just one radius that is affected. There's the inner radius of the spiral jacketing, the outer radius of the spiral jacketing, and between that the radius of the cable inside. The way the cable works depends on a relationship between that spiral jacketing and the cable, and that relationship is affected when the radius of a curved section of cable changes, so that in turn affects free play. It affects throttle operation too but in typical riding scenarios, not enough to be noticeable because bar movements are typically small except when you're idling. One of the reasons that has to happen - the change of overall cable radius - is because of an unavoidable mismatch in the axis of rotation about the headstock. And to some degree also that the cable routing is actually too fixed at points that are too close in proximity. As for the aspect of axis, think of how most drive chains get tighter and looser depending on how the rear wheel suspension is or isn't compressed. It's because the swingarm pivot on most bikes isn't on the same axis as the front (countershaft) drive sprocket. Ignoring ride-by-wire, there are some clever designs seen on some custom bikes that help with reducing or eliminating that change in cable radius by routing the cables inside frame and accessory tubes. But our 8th Gen VFRs are not examples of this. Unfortunately the Honda service manuals are not very clear about this anomaly except to the extent that they do say to make sure the throttle free play is within specifications with the bars turned both ways, which implies that it is in fact normal for free play to change as the bars move.
  42. 2 points
  43. 2 points
    Last week I bought a time machine at Costco, so this morning I set the dial to five years in the past so I could talk to my 2012 self: Me: Hey, good news. You’re going to own two bikes. And at the same time! 2012 Me: Wow, that’s great! I guess that means I’m going to be divorced, huh? Me: No, but the bathroom will be significally better looking. 2012 Me: Whew! So, what kinda bikes? Me: Well, they’re both v-twins. 2012 Me: Damn, that sucks. I guess now you’re going to tell me that I’ll trailer them to Sturgis wearing my licensed orange and black lifestyle outfit. Excuse me, I have to go jump off a bridge. Me: No, no wait! It’s not that bad. But you will finally jump onto the ADV bandwagon. A Multistrada. 2012 Me: But why? The last year I didn’t own a VFR was 1985! Me: Well, Honda will detune the 1200 to make an ADV. And they will bring back the 800 as a really sweet-looking 8th gen. But over the next few years Honda falls way, way behind the Europeans in electronic rider aids. After almost 50,000 great miles your decision will be to invest a lot of time and money to upgrade the 7th gen, or trade it. And the new KTM SD GT will just be too damn ugly. 2012 Me: OK, I guess I get it. At least I don’t become one of those geeks that wears an Aerostitch suit all the time. Me: No comment. 2012 Me: What else happens in the future? A Honda V4 superbike? Me: Nope. But be careful what you wish for, that’s divorce court for sure. 2012 Me: And I guess Buell goes under again? Me: Of course. 2012 Me: Any more advice from the future? Me: Well, if you park the VFR in Calistoga in 2015 try to keep the bike upright, OK? Just minor plastic damage but a tipover will really make you feel like an idiot. And paying up front for a Fusar might not be the best decision. Any advice for me from 2012? 2012 Me: Umm…no offense intended but you might want to hit the treadmill a little more often. Me: Hey, you’re me, deal with it. Anything else? 2012 Me: Well, you’ve never owned a 5th gen…
  44. 2 points
  45. 2 points
    Yep. You got to love them type of signs.
  46. 2 points
    Nice place to ride. Noticed the twisty sign for "NEXT 11 MILES". These kind of roads are fun. Last month went to Red Bluff, CA. and this was the twisty sign leaving Red Bluff as I headed up the road and back. About a 5 hour trip with stops.
  47. 2 points
    Just getting some new rubber, went with the PR4's.
  48. 2 points
    I just finished installing the Powerbronze windscreen. The 5 tabs on the inner visor were a pain. I had to use a flat screw driver to pry them, damaging them slightly in the process. Honda's fit and finish is great until you need to take apart the puzzle. :D
  49. 2 points
    I wanted to add to what the hidden tabs at the top look like to give an idea of how to pull it apart Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
  50. 1 point
    Steel attachment plate fits as per your 2nd photo. Can't help with instructions though, sorry.