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6th gen clutch hard shifting


vanion2

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So I followed the Honda manual and just installed new friction plates, spacers, and springs. I tightened down the bolts to spec, new seal, new oil, and I soaked the friction plates in oil for a couple of weeks while I was waiting on other parts.

 

Just took it out for a test ride and I really have to force the shifter to get it to change gears and the clutch doesn't fully disengage even when I pull it all the way in. First thought was clutch fluid but that doesn't explain why it is so hard to shift in any gear.

 

Your thoughts?

 

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Have you reassembled the clutch pack in the correct sequence and with the friction ring the right way round? Is the clutch rod free to move in the bore and have you bled the system to ensure you are getting full movement? Did you install the correct number of discs and friction plates? Did you ensure the plates and friction plates were installed alternately  and when bolting down the clutch plate it was square and not squewed? Finally was the release bearing square in the clutch plate cover and bottomed in the recess? I suspect you will need to strip the assembly down again to find the fault.

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Have you reassembled the clutch pack in the correct sequence and with the friction ring the right way round? Is the clutch rod free to move in the bore and have you bled the system to ensure you are getting full movement? Did you install the correct number of discs and friction plates? Did you ensure the plates and friction plates were installed alternately  and when bolting down the clutch plate it was square and not squewed? Finally was the release bearing square in the clutch plate cover and bottomed in the recess? I suspect you will need to strip the assembly down again to find the fault.


I followed the sequence as described in the manual. The friction ring the right way around? As far as I could they are identical with the exception of the top (first one removed) friction ring being slightly smaller. They only fit on the center clutch one way. Please correct me if I am wrong there.

I have not bled the system yet. Is there a way for air to get in there from the clutch assembly?

Correct number of disk and plates as per the Honda manual using all OEM parts. Each friction plate has a disk in between it and the next friction plate.

The clutch plate looked square and I never touched the release bearings so am assuming they are square as well.

Thanks for the insights. I guess I will be taking it apart again this weekend. :(


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I’ve just looked in the manual and the the friction ring I mentioned about being the right way is referred to as the friction spring, sorry. Air shouldn’t have got into the system unless the piston came out but if it is not operating fully due to air it may be why you are getting clunky changes.  

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I just have my RC51's clutch apart, and looking at the 6th Gen's fiche

 

Knipsel.JPG.908ad5f0142e858a44234a238215b972.JPG

Things look very very similar...

 

Ring #6 is FLAT and goes over #5 basket  first.

Ring #13 is a bit concave and you put this on with this shape ) towards you, so away from the face of #4

Then #9 (is is indeed a bit smaller; on the RC51), followed by the seqeuence of 10 and 8.

You put them over #5, inside #2 in the bracket with the "punch marks: from the plates.

On the RC51 (and possibly the 6th gen) the last ring #7, does not go in the same bracket, but the "undeep" one of #2.

If you look carefully you will see the punch/indentation mark where the last ring needs to seat.

 

 

 

 

clutch2.thumb.jpg.b7d292702791b0de52397284a08a3c05.jpg

 

Good luck!

 

 

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I’ve just looked in the manual and the the friction ring I mentioned about being the right way is referred to as the friction spring, sorry. Air shouldn’t have got into the system unless the piston came out but if it is not operating fully due to air it may be why you are getting clunky changes.  
Ok. I did place the friction spring as Dutchy described it below so I know I got that much right. :-)

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I just have my RC51's clutch apart, and looking at the 6th Gen's fiche  Knipsel.JPG.908ad5f0142e858a44234a238215b972.JPG

Things look very very similar...

 

Ring #6 is FLAT and goes over #5 basket  first.

Ring #13 is a bit concave and you put this on with this shape ) towards you, so away from the face of #4

Then #9 (is is indeed a bit smaller; on the RC51), followed by the seqeuence of 10 and 8.

You put them over #5, inside #2 in the bracket with the "punch marks: from the plates.

On the RC51 (and possibly the 6th gen) the last ring #7, does not go in the same bracket, but the "undeep" one of #2.

If you look carefully you will see the punch/indentation mark where the last ring needs to seat.

 

 

 

 

clutch2.thumb.jpg.b7d292702791b0de52397284a08a3c05.jpg

 

Good luck!

 

 

 

 

 The diagram makes it appear the smallest friction plate is inserted last. If so then I think my #7 needs to be rotated to the un deep cut outs as I know I lined it up the same as the #8's and #9 friction plates. Thanks Dutchy.

 

Does anyone know the torque value for the outer clutch cover bolts? The Honda manual gives no value and I don't want to over torque anything.

 

And after looking at your clutch pic the 6th gen only has 5 bolt towers versus your 6, and the drive sprockets are lined up differently as well. I will double check the 6th gen manual but I think your advice is still solid.

 

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Good news! I figured out what I did wrong. I did indeed switched the A and B friction plates. I needed to read the Honda manual closer because it even says the first friction plate inserted has the largest ID.

 

I took it for a test drive to fill up the tank and it shifts beautifully. I am so happy to have her back on the road. Thanks for all your help!

 

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15 hours ago, vanion2 said:

I took it for a test drive to fill up the tank and it shifts beautifully. I am so happy to have her back on the road. Thanks for all your help!

 

 

Picture or it did not happen :goofy:

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