Where is the link for CCT replacement?

[Willy]

I've been searching for threads regarding CCT replacement. I know they are out there - at point I thought I saw one pinned. Now that I'm about to tackle the front CCT....  can't find it. I read one from Tightwad and embedded in that was a pinned thread. Also just recently someone here had trouble with the timing chain slipping a tooth when the CCT was removed. So I want to be careful to avoid that. 

 

And yes - I should be able to find these threads.....  Hence, Ridicule is widely accepted here.....  

 

Thanks, Ernie

[Rogue_Biker]

Replacing the front is simple.

 

1) Remove left & right fairing

2)  Drain coolant (you don't have to but it will get messy if you don't so I recommend you drain it).

3)  Disconnect ONE of the hoses that leads to the Wax (Idle) Unit that is partially blocking the front CCT.

4)  Remove CCT screw (the top one) and use a CCT key to wind the spring backwards and lock it in place.

5) Remove the two CCT mounting screws and pull the CCT out.

6) Take new CCT, remove the top screw, and insert the CCT key to wind the spring back and lock it.  

7)  Insert new CCT into engine with NEW gasket.

8) Tighten the CCT mounting screws.

9)  Unwind the CCT key and remove, then replace the top screw back into the new CCT.

10)  Reconnect coolant hose to Wax (idle) unit.

11)  Fill engine with coolant (I assume you know the procedure in coolant flushing).

12)  Replace L & R fairings.  

 

 

[Duc2V4]

Rear is actually even more simple, no coolant to worry about and once you get the heat shield out of the way the CCT is pretty much right there. You would follow the same replacement order that Rogue posted but be advised of two things. Oil will drip out of the CCT, not like all of your oil, just what is inside the CCT when you turned the motor off, so be sure to have a rag or other catch basis. The other is the heat shield., although it's removal is fairly straight forward and will get you the best access to the CCT, getting to the lock nuts on the back side of the shield cab be a PITA but if you can somehow manage to get the entire foot peg assembly with the heat shield as one component, then it wouldn't be a huge ordeal. For the record it took me longer trying to get the nuts back onto the heat shield than it dd for me to replace both CCT (The actual process of removing and installing).

 

BTW, I was able to get the front CCT replaced without draining the coolant and without disconnecting the hoses but it does require some patience, a little bending of the offending hose and small hands help!

[Willy]

Rogue, Duc, 

Thank you both. I've got the bike fully disassembled so access is easy enough. And all the fluids are already drained. Good there. I've watched a few youtube videos and it looks pretty simple. On the list for tomorrow. 

 

Question..... I read that the rear is pretty durable and therefore did not buy a replacement. I intend to only replace the front CCT. Should I go ahead and replace the rear while I have the bike all apart. Bike has 48,000 miles on it. If it were your bike?  I'm starting to think I need to replace both at this time whether needed or not. 

 

Thanks! Ernie

 

[Duc2V4]

15 minutes ago, Willy said:

Rogue, Duc, 

Thank you both. I've got the bike fully disassembled so access is easy enough. And all the fluids are already drained. Good there. I've watched a few youtube videos and it looks pretty simple. On the list for tomorrow. 

 

Question..... I read that the rear is pretty durable and therefore did not buy a replacement. I intend to only replace the front CCT. Should I go ahead and replace the rear while I have the bike all apart. Bike has 48,000 miles on it. If it were your bike?  I'm starting to think I need to replace both at this time whether needed or not. 

 

Thanks! Ernie

 

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure...or something like that. I’ll put it this way, when I had to replace my water pump, I just went ahead and replaced the thermostat. Being that I had to drain the coolant and my mileage was pretty high ~67k miles, it just

seemed like it was a good time to do both.

[Willy]

Yep. I had to ask though......  OK - will order and wait a week for it to arrive.....  I guess I have all winter......

 

Cheers

 

[Rogue_Biker]

Agree with OOTV.  Do both if you already have the bike open.

 

Having said that I haven't replaced my rear yet because the bike is running so sweet with 50k miles on it.  

 

While you're in there....have you heard of Factory Pro Shift Star and Arm kit?  It's not cheap but it really improves the shift speed and travel of the VFR by a noticeable degree.  It's shifts faster, easier, with slightly less travel.  But it does require removing the front sprocket, and the shift mechanism cover, and draining the engine oil in order to install.  Installation is easy after all that is off.  

 

Be EXTRA CAREFUL when torquing down ANYTHING into the engine case (that includes the shift arm above). Honda says 9 ft. lbs. and they do mean 9 foot pounds ONLY for the shift arm (and clutch bolts).  Don't do like me, stripped the bolt head in the engine block!  They did extract right out because they were only at less than 20 ft lbs. overtightened!  LOL!

[Willy]

Rogue, thanks for warning on torqueing these fasteners down. I've been very careful - 1/4 socket driver and one handed. I have a torque wrench. I should get it out and use it going forward. 

 

I got the front CCT replaced today. The key that comes with the replacement unit is worthless. It twisted before I could get the spring wound up for removal. I had to grind an old screwdriver down to get the old spring wound back to remove the CCT. But it all worked out. Have not ordered the CCT for rear chain yet. Have to get time to get it done.

 

Old CCT and "special tool" used to remove it. I appreciate the help so far! Thx! Ernie

[Rogue_Biker]

Yeah winding the CCT with the supplied Key can be frustrating.  Key is soft and small.  Mostly it's soft and gets bent easily.

 

I took an hour of my time this past Saturday to replace my rear CCT.  The toughest part was getting that heatshield out.  From suggestion here and OOTV, I first unbolted the right footpeg, which allowed me to rotate the heatshield enough to get easy access to the three bolts holding the plate to the rear brake master cylinder.  That went very easy indeed.  

 

My only issue remaining is a cold clutch rumble, which according to others requires a new outer clutch basket.

[Willy]

I'll be replacing the rear CCT also this week. I have the foot peg and heat shield removed already so access is OK. I did notice that the header may be in the way trying to use the screwdriver I modified for this. I'll give it a try and will eventually get it done. 

 

Clutch....  I have the side cover off. I'll make a visual inspection. When I rode it home on the day I purchased I did not notice any noise though. Hopefully some good news. I guess if you get as far as replacing the basket - you replace all the plates at the same time? Springs too?  I've never had one opened up. 

 

 

[Rogue_Biker]

I just replaced the clutch plates and springs. Didn’t make much of a difference. 

 

The rumble is when oil is cold and gets progressively less as CT rises. At 160 deg F of CT the rumble is completely gone. Or when the clutch is pulled in the rumble is gone. So only when cold and in neutral with the clutch out.

 

From what I gather the grooves on the outer clutch basket that hold the clutch plates wear from mileage and allow the plates to move back and forth slightly as the clutch spins at idle. With cold oil not able to bathe the plates, the noise is exaggerated when cold.

[Willy]

Hmmm....  Will have to inspect the basket more carefully before I put the cover back on. Thanks!