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How are the ignition switch fasteners loosened?


Willy

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Guys, I'd like to remove the ignition switch from the top bridge so I can powder coat the bridge. The switch is fastened to the bridge with some sort of "tamper proof one-way" bolts. Pictured below. I've tried a torx bit and I can get some grip on it but not enough to loosen it without damaging the bolt head. 

 

Is there a special tool for this? I hate to resort to drilling the bolt out and using ab extractor? I've read the service manual. No note on using a special tool. 

 

Any advice?

 

Thanks!

DSCN1260.thumb.JPG.9a4e1b2982f9cfc4714255e3a5d83eb1.JPG

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If there is no special tool to remove, i would use a dremel to put a slot across the head of the bolt and then use a flat blade screwdriver to remove. If that doesnt work, dremel the head of the bolt off totally, remove the ignition barrel and then remove the exposed bolt threads with mole grips.

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Cobra - good idea. I have a dremel and can go this route if no other tools are suggested. Thanks a bunch!

 

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Get an impact driver (air or mains powered); these make short work of fasteners that are frozen in place by either threadlock or time/corrosion. If you are like me you will only use it a couple of times per year, but each time you will marvel at the ease of fastener removal that would normally involve rounded off heads/swearing/drilling out/fastener replacement. I'm not sure about the 6G but my 5G definitely had torx bolts and threadlock and was near impossible to remove without the impact driver. I flipped the triple clamp over on the steering head to attack these. 

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You can get a 'manual' Impact driver. One you wallop with a lump hammer. Cheaper than  either of the powered versions or you can use a flat ended punch and hit the bolt in with a few sharp taps. Sometimes the sharp shock is enough to release any grip on the threads.

 

by the looks of that the heads are proud of the mounting so getting a slot cut will be easy. I have in the past sacrificed a slightly larger torx bit and hammered it into the recess.

 

If you do resort to drilling it out you only have top drill the bolt head off and that's quite easy with torx/allen type bolts as the pilot hole is already there and central. Once the head is off the threaded bit comes out quite easily -using vice/molegrips as it is no longer under stress.

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Thanks Woodie for the ideas. I'll have time today to give it a shot. I'll report back. Hopefully with success! Cheers!

 

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OK - SUCCESS!

 

Thanks all for the advice. I tried hammering a variety of bits; torx, hex, etc into the bolt head. In the end, an oversized standard screwdriver bit was the most effective at holding a bite. Attached to a 1/4" drive socket and they broke loose. Once loosened a standard torx key backed them out. It's an interesting fastener. Not only is the bolt head designed to be driven in only - not out, but the threads themselves were also groved to screw in but provide resistance when baking them out. Pic attached. 

 

Again thank you all for the help. DSCN1279.thumb.JPG.d1cd67eaab44478d16207820a5a4ba4b.JPG

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