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Starting up issues


hitsoundz

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Hi all. I got my new battery in my 99 vfr800. Hooked up the instrument panel and got lights! Turn signals etc work, but nothing from lcd panel. I haven't put the tank back on yet because i was waiting for a new fuel pump that just arrived. So i guess i have two questions.

 

1 will the starter kick over with no tank on the bike?

 

2: should i be seeing something in that lcd panel?

 

Thanks for all of your advice And help!

 

Mike

 

Sent from my LGMP260 using Tapatalk

 

 

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Hi Mike

 

The starter motor circuit is switched on by the starter solenoid. The solenoid is supplied from the positive battery feed, via the fuse, ignition switch, kill switch and of course the starter button. So all of those items must be connected for 12v to reach the solenoid. The ground path from the solenoid has a couple of options, either through the neutral switch on the side of the clutch cover (in NEUTRAL) or through the clutch switch (pulled in) AND the sidestand switch (in UP position). The tank, fuel pump, instrument lights etc should not play any part in the function of the solenoid. 

 

Of course nothing would stop you from jumping a cable direct from the battery positive to the starter cable to spin the motor. Needs to be a pretty large gauge wire for the current e.g. a jumper cable. 

 

And yes, normal operation when you turn the bike on is instrument back lights, oil light, FI light briefly/with pump prime and the LCD panel showing fuel state and air or coolant temp, plus odometer and trip. 

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Man Terry, you are a wealth of information! I truly appreciate it. This is a pretty complex bike and the first one I've done anything major to since my. 86 nighthawk 750. Ill keep on going until i get it going! Thanks for all of your help!

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Looks like i have some wire tracing to do... Btw..i tested the regilator using a multimeter and got absolutely no reading. Does this mean it's dead? Or does olit mean I'm an idiot doing it wrong? Lol red multi to green wire the black multi to yellow and the reverse

Sent from my LGMP260 using Tapatalk

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15 hours ago, hitsoundz said:

Looks like i have some wire tracing to do... Btw..i tested the regilator using a multimeter and got absolutely no reading. Does this mean it's dead? Or does olit mean I'm an idiot doing it wrong? Lol red multi to green wire the black multi to yellow and the reverse

Sent from my LGMP260 using Tapatalk
 

Take a look at RoadsterCycle.com and check out the page with video DIY tutorials. It has Mosfet and non Mosfet videos. If it's stock style it's non Mosfet. 

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  • 1 month later...

Ok. I got her started! While running I checked the voltage at battery and am showing 11.46 volts. Even when i rev the bike. Should I assume bad stator? Or could the regulator be bad. I tested diodes on regulator prior to starting and got all similar reading around 4.45 to 4.55 or so. Thank you all for all of your help! There's no way this beast would be running without your expert advice. I really appreciate it.

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If you haven't already done so, take a look at the connector between the alternator and the RR, a white 3P plug with three yellow wires, on the left side below the seat under the tail cowl. These often corrode/melt/fail, and if so charging is badly compromised. 

 

Voltage at the battery when running should be 13.5-15V, any less and the battery will discharge. The voltage shown suggests either the RR is dead, or the alternator, or both, or just wiring damage.

 

Take a look at this post: http://vfrworld.com/threads/the-drill.52131/

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Hi Terry - thanks! I hard wired the stator to the regulator, so I suppose I'll start with the regulator, as I know those are dicey and the one on the bike looks like a cheesy aftermarket variety. I appreciate the input and all of your help was instrumental in the bike starting! Did you see the short video? It sounds great! I changed the plugs and all fluids (except brakes - thats next. ) 

 

Thanks again!

 

Mike

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Before you do anything else, check the condition of the 4-pin connector to the starter relay. One wire is the +12vdc output from the rec/reg. If it has failed then no charging gets to the battery. Here's what a bad one looks like.

when connections go bad

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