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It turns but it's not starting. help pls.


VFRSuperfreak

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Hello. Hope this is familiar to someone. I've done some trial-error so let me list the most recent work;

 

-I charged the battery several times, it appears healthy as it recovers to 12.2 after a stint of cranking. But sometimes not so much, more deets below.

-I've checked all fuses and wiring. (It had worked about 3 weeks ago, then stored with an automatic charger).

-It has the improved wiring with direct lines and thicker gauge going to POS and NEG, plus a monitor wire (7 wire R-R)

-About 2 weeks ago I poured about 200ml of injector cleaner into the tank. Mentioning in case it matters. 

-I removed the hose from the gas pump, it appears to be pumping but haven't measured how much.

-I filled the disconnected hose with gas, and the gas level did not change while cranking.

-The starter relay/solenoid is suspect as it sometimes just clicks, then I bridge it with a screwdriver, and it cranks. BUT sometimes it just does crank (2 of 3 crank sessions). 

On the last try: I tried starting while jumping it from my car, haven't tried a run-start. I tried this without the battery (after reading posts about internal battery shorts draining the available power from a jump).

 

On the last try I removed the air filter, and it seems to have gas going into the carbs. I get like 1 sputter per 3 second crank, which is to say almost no sputter. 

 

So, thinking I will remove the spark plugs next to check if bridged or wet and flooded, I didn't have plug tools on the last try. But I'm asking here what to check next? I've ordered a new starter solenoid but it will be another week to get here. 

 

Any help appreciated!

 

/edit; attached FLV of when it started and revved ok. voltmeter is connected to the fuse bank.

 

vfr revving.flv

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  • Member Contributer

Always start with the battery.  You could be chasing your tail, ordering increasingly expensive parts, if you don't know for sure that your battery is healthy.  Solenoid clicking is a classic symptom of a weak battery, for example.  First, properly test your battery or replace it--they're pretty cheap...

 

Ciao,

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On 9/10/2017 at 7:01 AM, JZH said:

Always start with the battery.  You could be chasing your tail, ordering increasingly expensive parts, if you don't know for sure that your battery is healthy.  Solenoid clicking is a classic symptom of a weak battery, for example.  First, properly test your battery or replace it--they're pretty cheap...

 

Ciao,

 

Well, unfort not that "cheap", I'm on an extended stay in Mexico earning pesos, it's about 3 years old, and I will DEF. buy one if it's the case. (the solenoid is on its way and supposed to be half the price of a Yuasa). 
on the last try, the engine turns, I have the battery directly connected to a 15v, 3A. charger while doing so. It recovers to over 12.3 every time.  So here's the question: Under this specific test, used batt, starter cranking over and over, would a weak battery still be the root cause??


UPDATE: I removed the 2 rear spark plugs: they come out wet every time. This I believe makes that "injector cleaner" fluid I poured, a suspect now. Right?
After drying I tested each by leaving the wire and grounding to the engine; They spark. I will try to somehow test a different spark plug, or these ones in a different engine, to see if there's a difference.  -I've now drained the carb. deposits, the tank, hoses and gas pump. I'll let it sit for days like this. 

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By "properly test" I mean this (from p.22 of the Yuasa Tech Manual): 

 

Quote

Battery Testing — Voltmeter

Unlike Conventional batteries, AGM types cannot be tested using a hydrometer because they are sealed. Instead a voltmeter can be used to perform an open circuit voltage test. The test can be used for both Conventional and AGM batteries. The test is used to determine the following: battery state-of-charge, ability to hold a charge and shorted or open battery cells. It is possible that a battery can pass the open circuit voltage test and still be unable to start a vehicle and battery load testing will be required to determine if the battery needs replacement. Before performing an open circuit voltage test the battery must be fully charged.

 

Charging a battery using the vehicle’s charging system or a battery charger creates a “surface” charge across the battery’s cells. The surface charge needs to be removed before an accurate test for open circuit voltage can be performed. To remove the surface charge, turn on the ignition key for about three minutes then turn it off. Now let the battery sit for about 10 minutes. This step is not necessary if the battery has been sitting for 1 hour after charging is complete. Connect a digital voltmeter to the battery, red lead to positive and black lead to the negative battery terminals. Open circuit voltage indicates what percent of charge the battery has reached after charging. Open circuit voltage for a fully, 100% charged AGM battery is 12.8 to 13.0 volts. AGM batteries that are 75% to 100% charged will measure 12.5 to 12.8 volts. Conventional batteries have slightly lower open circuit voltages: 12.6 volts (12.8 volts with Sulfate Stop) for 100% charge and 12.4 for 75% charge. 

 

If after charging, and the open circuit voltage indicates that the battery is less than 75% charged, the battery is probably no good and should be replaced. Before the battery is condemned, try charging it again. If the battery is still not close to 100% charged it needs to be replaced. The open circuit voltage test is not conclusive. It is possible to have a 100% charged battery as indicated by the open circuit voltage test that will not start a powersport vehicle reliably. A load test must be performed to determine actual battery performance after charging.

 

That is the baseline I would start from.  

 

Fuel pumps do go bad on these bikes, but they can actually run without the pump (I've done this myself), so you can take the fuel pump out of the question by re-routing the fuel lines as a test.  However, if you've got fuel in the float bowls, the engine would have enough fuel to start and run for several minutes.

 

You may have drowned the plugs with the injector cleaner (why?  your bike doesn't have fuel injectors!), so try again once it dries out.  Good luck!

 

Ciao,

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  • 2 weeks later...

It started!, after leaving 2 rear cyl. open and drained all carb bowls. It was flooded but with injector cleaner. (yes I knooww).

I've done those battery tests, and altho it was resulting in a weak, 75% charge after sitting hours, I still tried it because it cranks, it turns the engine. And last week we went out, first time in months!. here we are in the middle of the worse Narco roads. ( 20.839440, -103.336624 ) Pic and video attached; 


 

vfr camachos.jpg

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