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New VFR Owner - Hi and a few Questions


2015vfr

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18 hours ago, Samuelx said:

 

The size(s) for your application is as follows:

 

Front……SB7100S quantity 2, 1 for each caliper

Rear…….SB8125L quantity 1

Clutch….SB8125L

 

The steel bleeders are $7each, 5 would be $35 and the stainless steel bleeders are $15 each, 5 would be $75.  S&H is $5.95

 

 

 

How did he get to 5, or is he including a spare? 2 for the front, 1 for the rear, one for the clutch?

 

I have always done the box end wrench on the nipple, with the magnetic bottle stuck to the disk. The hose keeps the box end wrench from falling.

Is this really worth it? I'm assuming you have to drain the whole system to install them?

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Yeah, the 5 confused me too.  I THINK she was just saying IF you buy 5.  As far as I can tell, we only need 4, two of each... 

 

This will be the first time I'm trying/using Speedbleeders but "everyone" says good things about them...  I haven't really thought about the installation but I'm guessing/hoping for minimal leakage when removing the OEM and installing the Speedbleeders and I'm hoping that any air intrusion will also be minimal and be bled out on the first few squeezes...  hoping!

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22 hours ago, 2015vfr said:

 

How did he get to 5, or is he including a spare? 2 for the front, 1 for the rear, one for the clutch?

 

I have always done the box end wrench on the nipple, with the magnetic bottle stuck to the disk. The hose keeps the box end wrench from falling.

Is this really worth it? I'm assuming you have to drain the whole system to install them?

 

The beauty of the Speed Bleeders is that you don't have to keep opening and closing the nipple to keep the air out. You open it once and just pump the lever while adding new fluid. You can flush your whole you system in minutes (with non-linked brakes). You do not have to drain the whole system to install them. I believe you actually need to install them on a pressurized system to start with. Well worth the money. 

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4 hours ago, joepopp said:

 

The beauty of the Speed Bleeders is that you don't have to keep opening and closing the nipple to keep the air out. You open it once and just pump the lever while adding new fluid. You can flush your whole you system in minutes (with non-linked brakes). You do not have to drain the whole system to install them. I believe you actually need to install them on a pressurized system to start with. Well worth the money. 

I might do it when I change out the fluid. Do you know what Honda's recommended interval is? I just always did it when I thought it needed it, although that's probably not the best way...

 

On a side note, I've been getting a ton of packages. Stuff started arriving within 8 days after I ordered it from China. Crazy! Still missing the fuse block and the harness connectors, but hopefully those will be here soon.

 

And I can't manage to get the stebel apart, I might have to return it a pay the money for the 2-part one, I think the $20 is worth saving the hassle

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1 hour ago, 2015vfr said:

 

If I could figure out a way to make an air tank and compressor look like it belongs on the VFR, I'd have fookin' TRAIN HORNS on mine.

 

It's not even for the cars.  NYC's pedestrians are just something else.

 

 

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On 9/26/2017 at 1:56 PM, 2015vfr said:

I might do it when I change out the fluid. Do you know what Honda's recommended interval is? I just always did it when I thought it needed it, although that's probably not the best way...

 

On a side note, I've been getting a ton of packages. Stuff started arriving within 8 days after I ordered it from China. Crazy! Still missing the fuse block and the harness connectors, but hopefully those will be here soon.

 

And I can't manage to get the stebel apart, I might have to return it a pay the money for the 2-part one, I think the $20 is worth saving the hassle

Not sure of the Honda recommended interval but two years seems about normal. I do mine every season. Super easy with the speed bleeders! 

 

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I just ordered the speed bleeders recommended in the email, but forgot about the bag. Is it really worth picking up or can I do the same job with something easily rigged up?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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35 minutes ago, jhenley17 said:

I just ordered the speed bleeders recommended in the email, but forgot about the bag. Is it really worth picking up or can I do the same job with something easily rigged up?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

Yea, just drill a hole in the lid of an empty bottle, then stick the hose attached to the bleeder through it.

 

 

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Good to know about the speed bleeders! I ordered the m8x1.25 and only figured out they were the wrong size after emptying the system... Agitated. Reinstalled original bleeders, and refilled. I'll look into ordering the correct size. 

 

Also, I have the ram mount, and the included plugs do not hold tight. I had to use other rubber stoppers I had laying around. 

 

Aux lights were mentioned early in the thread. I did exactly as mentioned, using the existing threaded holes. I love my little $20 amazon pair. I put yellow blinker tape over the lenses to stand out a bit. 

closeup light~01.jpg

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8 hours ago, Rsparky said:

Good to know about the speed bleeders! I ordered the m8x1.25 and only figured out they were the wrong size after emptying the system... Agitated. Reinstalled original bleeders, and refilled. I'll look into ordering the correct size. 

 

Also, I have the ram mount, and the included plugs do not hold tight. I had to use other rubber stoppers I had laying around. 

 

Aux lights were mentioned early in the thread. I did exactly as mentioned, using the existing threaded holes. I love my little $20 amazon pair. I put yellow blinker tape over the lenses to stand out a bit. 

closeup light~01.jpg

 

Need a picture of the beam throw in the DARK.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well everything is here for the most part.

 

The fuse holder will fit below the battery cover but its not ideal. The fuse holder cover does not fit. I may have to look for a more compact fuse holder.

 

Time to get started making the wiring harness.

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For anyone in the UK wanting Speed Bleeders, the total for 4 in stainless steel was £55 including shipping, the Post Office and Customs came to £18.50

 

They were here in a week or at least I got the demand for the extra a week later 

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First section of harness made up. If you look at the wiring diagram i posted earlier the horn is double fused. I think i will bypass the fuse block with the horn.

 

The two wire bundles you see attached are relay bases that engage waterproof relays.

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Fuse block wiring is almost complete. The black 10 gauge will be attached to one of the relays.

 

The deutsch connectors are great. Strip the wire, crimp on the appropriate end, then just push into the connector. Last step is to push in the insert.

 

 

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I have the harness with the main fuses, relays, and distribution fuse block made up. I took the terminal holders out of the fuse block I ordered and built my own. This fits behind the Bikes main fuse holder on the right side.

 

All of the above fits under the battery cover. The switched power for the relays is taken off the stock connector which is now tucked in front of the battery. 

 

No cuts will be made to any part of the stock harness.

 

Next up is the taillight intercept to install a feniex t3 and tail tidy. Hopefully next weekend.

 

The harnesses I showed above are now installed below:

 

 

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Smart move to simplify the power supply to the horn.  At those current levels the tiniest additional resistance reduces horn energy.

 

Nice to see someone who knows how to crimp.

 

What kind of black tape did you use to wrap the wires?  Anything special that won't turn into a gooey nasty mess in a few years?

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7 hours ago, Samuelx said:

Very Clean Bro!  :)

Thanks!

 

2 hours ago, Rectaltronics said:

Smart move to simplify the power supply to the horn.  At those current levels the tiniest additional resistance reduces horn energy.

 

Nice to see someone who knows how to crimp.

 

What kind of black tape did you use to wrap the wires?  Anything special that won't turn into a gooey nasty mess in a few years?

 

The wires are wrapped with dry vinyl tape, it doesnt have any adhesive. I use a little bit of electric tape to seal the end of a wrap to keep it from unraveling. Dry vinyl tape sticks to itself when you stretch it. I use split loom to protect the wire from abrasion or heat at key points and cloth tape to protect bodywork and keep noise down. The cloth tape doesnt stick well so I use a zip tie to hold the end of a wrap.

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18 hours ago, 2015vfr said:

The wires are wrapped with dry vinyl tape, it doesnt have any adhesive. I use a little bit of electric tape to seal the end of a wrap to keep it from unraveling. Dry vinyl tape sticks to itself when you stretch it. I use split loom to protect the wire from abrasion or heat at key points and cloth tape to protect bodywork and keep noise down. The cloth tape doesnt stick well so I use a zip tie to hold the end of a wrap.

 

Fair 'nuff.  I like that stretchy dry stuff too.  I'm thinking some heat-shrink is probably a decent alternative to using adhesive electrical tape at the ends.

 

Everyone: remember to use flush cutters when snipping the ends off your zip-ties!  Your flesh will thank you later...

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10 hours ago, Rectaltronics said:

 

Fair 'nuff.  I like that stretchy dry stuff too.  I'm thinking some heat-shrink is probably a decent alternative to using adhesive electrical tape at the ends.

 

Everyone: remember to use flush cutters when snipping the ends off your zip-ties!  Your flesh will thank you later...

Harness tape.

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