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99 800vfrF1 project bike


hitsoundz

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Hi all, 

I just got gifted a 99 vfr800f1 and it needs some serious tlc. Can anyone tell me if they know where I could get wire connectors for the alternator wire? The previous owner cut them off.

I'm on a tight budget, so I was wondering if it would be okay to just Butt connect the wires, of would it be best to get a new regulator and alternator wire? 

 

I also found a small ring shaped item near the coolant overflow tan that I could use some help identifying. Thank you all!

 

I have attached some pictures. Thanks again. I have been wanting a bike for years. My last was an ex CHP BMW 11rtp. and I'm excited to get back on two wheels!

 

Thanks again for any help! 

 

Mike

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Welcome aboard!

 

The ring shaped item is the sidestand switch and should be bolted through the main pivot bolt on the stand. A faulty switch will kill the ignition in gear when running, and will prevent the bike starting with the stand down unless the bike is in neutral. 

 

The stator-RR connector is a weak point that often gets wet, corrodes then the higher resistance causes it to melt which allows the conductor sot touch and shorts out the RR or the stator. For that reason many here have cut the connector out and soldered the wires together, finished with heat shrink. Doesn't matter which yellow wires you join, they are AC 3-phase. 

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WOW! Thank you so much for the response and passing on the knowledge. I will get on these fixes. I'm sure there are many more questions to be asked. I am so 

thankful to have a bunch of other cycling enthusiasts to connect with and pick their brains! 

 

Have a blessed and happy week!

 

Mike

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Mike if you want to download a service manual follow this Dropbox link

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/wgmgfcbhi4emc4n/VFR800Fi 98-01.pdf?dl=0.

 

Lots of good info on cable routing in the general info section.

 

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Just to moderate your expectations, from the condition of the bike it would appear that the PO had experienced the VFR's classic electrical problems and eventually gave up trying to get it to run again.  You may have to start from scratch in order to solve those problems.  But, fortunately you're in the right place to do that!

 

First stop on that journey is to get a new battery (or somehow verify that the bike's current battery is in good condition--which would be unlikely, IMHO).  And you will also need at least a cheap multimeter.

 

That reg/rec is a cheapo non-OEM one, so it may be toast.  But (once you have a fully charged, strong battery), you may as well solder the three yellow wires (it does not matter which connects to which) and see if you can start the bike.  You don't actually need a connected-up reg/rec to start the bike, so you could see if you can get the engine going without a charging system--you may have other problems!  (Don't let the yellow wires short to anything if you do this.)  Good luck.

 

Ciao,

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Thanks again for all of your advice. I'm going to chick the diodes on the regulator tomorrow and got a new battery and lock set. Weird thing happened today. I went to move the bike and the back wheel is frozen. It feels like the rear brake is stuck in the in position, which is weird because the bike is Parked in a box truck. So I'm hoping to look into that and solder everything up b tomorrow. See if i get a spark. You guys are awesome! 

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The 5G has linked brakes between the front and the back. The centre piston of the back brake is driven from the secondary master cylinder on the left fork, basically when you grab the front brake the caliper revolves a little with the wheel and applies pressure to the SMC. The SMC is known for getting blocked and not releasing brake pressure which means the rear brake will drag or lock on. You can check if this is the case by cracking the bleed nipples (there are two) on the back brake and seeing if the caliper releases. 

 

There is a very specific procedure for bleeding the 5G brakes in the service manual, which needs to be carefully followed. If that does not help then I'd advise disassembling the SMC for a clean-out.

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Once again all, THANK YOU! There is no better teacher than experience and obviously you all have it! I have 2 regulators that came with the bike and I've put the tester to each on "diode" mode and get nothing but a -1. I therefore have come to the conclusion that I must be doing something wrong. I don't want to take the time to solder in a dead regulator. Does anyone know of a link that shows the testing process for the 800? If so I'd love to have a look! Thanks again!

 

Mike

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The main test for the reg/rec is the output test, and for that you need a running engine.  

 

Ciao,

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Thanks! Since i got the bike free of charge in thinking of just replacing the main elements of the charging system right off the bat, like the stator, Reg/rec. I just got a battery and new (used) oem lockset and ignition. I figure once i have these components in place itll be easier to diagnose. I'll probably replace the side kickstand switch as well. Does anyone know of a good aftermarket reg rec and stator? I'm leery of oem because of the obvious problems everyone has with them. Thanks! Have a great Sunday!

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On 9/10/2017 at 11:28 AM, hitsoundz said:

Thanks! Since i got the bike free of charge in thinking of just replacing the main elements of the charging system right off the bat, like the stator, Reg/rec. I just got a battery and new (used) oem lockset and ignition. I figure once i have these components in place itll be easier to diagnose. I'll probably replace the side kickstand switch as well. Does anyone know of a good aftermarket reg rec and stator? I'm leery of oem because of the obvious problems everyone has with them. Thanks! Have a great Sunday!

 Go here for R/R 

www.roadstercycle.com

Stators --- OEM or some people have been going to www.customrewind.com    -- Custom rewind -- havent tried that personally, but tempted for next time. 

 

And since you are screwing with wiring - at some point you will need... 

http://www.cycleterminal.com/index.html

 

 

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 Go here for R/R 
www.roadstercycle.com
 
Stators --- OEM or some people have been going to www.customrewind.com    -- Custom rewind -- havent tried that personally, but tempted for next time. 
Thanks for the info! I love this board! You are all awesome!

Sent from my LGMP260 using Tapatalk

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4 minutes ago, hitsoundz said:

Thanks for the info! I love this board! You are all awesome!

Sent from my LGMP260 using Tapatalk
 

 

The depth of motorcycle tech guru's (geeks?) on this board is the best of the web...   

 

A while you are at it, your gonna want to know.... 

https://www.procaliber.com/

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Honda/Motorcycle/parts.html

 

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18 hours ago, mello dude said:

 Go here for R/R 

www.roadstercycle.com

Stators --- OEM or some people have been going to www.customrewind.com    -- Custom rewind -- havent tried that personally, but tempted for next time. 

 

And since you are screwing with wiring - at some point you will need... 

http://www.cycleterminal.com/index.html

 

 

There are R/R testing DIY videos on Roadster Cycle's website that are very easy to follow and understand. I've bought his stuff, and he's very helpful if you have questions! Same with Custom Rewind. I've been running a rewound stator from them for many years now.

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  • 2 weeks later...

YOU GUYS ARE SO AWESOME! Okay.  is the weekend. I got the new ignition switch and battery and am going to get a new side stand and switch (the old side stand is gone) When I hooked the fuel pump up direct wired to the battery to test (it's out of the bike obviously) I got a few sparks on the terminal and nothing else. I would assume that the pump should jump to life no matter what? Any ideas? I think it may be frozen but have no other way of testing that I know. 

 

I'm thinking I may need a new pump as well. but this weekend I'm going to try to start the dang thing! Wish me luck!

 

Thanks again guys!

 

Mike

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You should definitely hear/feel the pump run. I've never had my pump out, but on the bike there is a definite whir/whine when the pump comes on. If you find any 5g video where the bike is started, the whine sound for a few seconds when the ignition is turned on is the fuel pump priming.

 

Without a working fuel pump, you will not be able to start the bike. It is fuel injected and without a decent amount of pressure (250 kPa/36 psi) the system will not function correctly.

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Hmm. Okay. I just wanted to see if it would function before putting the bike back together to try and start it. So i hooked a wire directly from each battery terminal to one connector on the fuel pump. I figured it would soon up. I've seen some like that on YouTube. Thanks for the idea though. 

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Hmm. Okay. I just wanted to see if it would function before putting the bike back together to try and start it. So i hooked a wire directly from each battery terminal to one connector on the fuel pump. I figured it would soon up. I've seen some like that on YouTube. Thanks for the idea though. 
Watch "Fuel pump test VFR800 2001 RC46" on YouTube


Sent from my LGMP260 using Tapatalk

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