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Mounting Shindengen SH847


algore

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Hi,

I have a Shindengen SH847 RR (the series MOSFET type). It is larger in all dimensions than the stock RR and the mounting holes are 100mm apart compared to the stock 80mm. The stock RR is in a good location but the new SH847 is certainly not a drop-in to the stocl location. Has anyone fitted one to a 6th Gen VFR? Any mounting suggestions?

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A friend has one in the stock spot but only using one bolt. Seems to work ok, not a lot of stress on the R/R. Thread locker wouldn't hurt any.

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Duccmann: that looks neat and tidy but I don't have a top box.

KevCarver: Do you recall how the SH847 was oriented? It looked like using the foremost mounting hole and mounting the RR horizontally would bring the RR too far forward and foul the forks on extreme right steering lock. But maybe your friend didn't bother mounting it squarely - if the rearmost mounting hole was used and the RR was rotated downwards (clockwise looking at the side of the bike), I can see that that the RR might clear the forks and have room for the cables to exit towards the rear.

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Algore, check out roadstercycle.com

Jack is the R/R wizard there, and fabricates adapter plates w slots for bolting to stock holes and properly spaced holes for the SH847 and FH020AA R/R's (He sells both). 

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Is there room in there to mount the R/R somewhat horizontal like the stocker is? 

Like this.....

RRMountingPlate05.jpg

 

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5 hours ago, mello dude said:

Is there room in there to mount the R/R somewhat horizontal like the stocker is? 

Like this.....

RRMountingPlate05.jpg

 

That is how mine is mounted, I made the adaptor plate up myself using a hack saw and a couple of drills.

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5 hours ago, mello dude said:

Is there room in there to mount the R/R somewhat horizontal like the stocker is? 

Like this.....

 

 

I have mounted the RR directly to the existing mounting hole. It looks like you have an adapter plate which allows the RR to sit a bit higher on the frame and therefore clear the radiator mounting bits below that the RR currently fouls. So next step is a nice chunk of aluminium flat bar suitably machined.

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9 hours ago, algore said:

I have mounted the RR directly to the existing mounting hole. It looks like you have an adapter plate which allows the RR to sit a bit higher on the frame and therefore clear the radiator mounting bits below that the RR currently fouls. So next step is a nice chunk of aluminium flat bar suitably machined.

Well yeah, thats where I'm going with this, I make/sell a flip plate for the FH020AA as a direct bolt on to stock for 6th gens as in the photo. So I'm thinking I can make one for the SH847. (Laser cut) 

But I dont have a 6th at the moment to screw with. 

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I fitted mine using an 8mm aluminium plate which also improves the heat shedding. Had to uss a plate as the hole orientation wasnt the same on Shindengen series r/r. Managed to fit it in the same plane as the original but 8mm further away from the frame. No spacing issues

 

Constant 14.2 volts through all rev ranges including idle. 

20170725_131431.jpg

20170725_131410.jpg

20170725_131348.jpg

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On 8/31/2017 at 2:58 PM, Marooncobra said:

I fitted mine using an 8mm aluminium plate which also improves the heat shedding. Had to uss a plate as the hole orientation wasnt the same on Shindengen series r/r. Managed to fit it in the same plane as the original but 8mm further away from the frame. No spacing issues

 

Constant 14.2 volts through all rev ranges including idle. 

Hi,

 

That looks like a tidy solution. Just need to get to the local supplier and pick up some scrap alloy.

 

I am only getting 13.4V@5k rpm at the battery. Enough for now but I will be investigating again this weekend. I am afraid I just got sick of pulling the damn thing apart each weekend so I took a break once 'acceptable' performance was achieved.

 

I received a small DVM module yesterday so I will be able to monitor the voltage in real time. Question: do you run wires back to the battery terminals or do you tap into the wiring harness somewhere under the instrument panel?

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I tapped into a switched supply near the instrument cluster and mounted the meter on the side fairing area by the head stock. If you don't use a switched supply you will drain the battery if left for a long period as it will always be displaying your voltage

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On 9/8/2017 at 7:43 PM, Marooncobra said:

I tapped into a switched supply near the instrument cluster and mounted the meter on the side fairing area by the head stock. If you don't use a switched supply you will drain the battery if left for a long period as it will always be displaying your voltage

I attached wires to the LO (dip) headlight connector. That may not be such a good idea as the voltage reading is a mere +11.1V vs +13.4 at the battery terminals, when the ignition switch is ON. Does this voltage drop seem normal? I verified that the cheapie voltmeter I installed is accurate using the test gear at the day job so I am getting a serious voltage drop between the battery and the headlight - but I have nothing to compare it against.

 

This lead me to inspect the wiring harness and I did found the infamous blue connector and noted that the original wiring harness is intact. So a bypass for the ground return is the next task.

Curiously, the battery voltage is now only +12.8V @ 5k rpm. I feel I am chasing gremlins...

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On 8/30/2017 at 10:44 PM, mello dude said:

Well yeah, thats where I'm going with this, I make/sell a flip plate for the FH020AA as a direct bolt on to stock for 6th gens as in the photo. So I'm thinking I can make one for the SH847. (Laser cut) 

But I dont have a 6th at the moment to screw with. 

 

Bumping this. - Looking for a few testers (first come, first served, some shipping donation appreciated, US only for now) -

- I laser cut out first test flip plates for the SH847 R/R.   Mount up on a 6th gen.  

 

But first so this isnt total folly. --- IF you have the R/R in hand..  spot check the mounting holes on it. --- 100mm? --- I dont remember where I got that number, but I set that dimension on the plates.

 

Caveat -- I dont have a 6th gen for tryout, you will have to tell me -- move holes up or down or, rotate 10 degrees or.. .this really sucks and no workie at all.... 

 

Cheers gang.. :beer:

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Hi Mello,

I did a drawing in AutoCAD - it fits the SH847 at 90 degrees to the OEM orientation with threaded M6 holes for the SH847 mounting bolts and countersunk M6 clearance holes for the adapter plate to frame mounting holes. You are welcome to the file if interested.

 

I have trial fitted it using a cardboard model. I have not made it yet - got a bit busy. I have a quote from a local CNC house which is the expensive but low effort option. If I could source a piece of scrap 6/8mm plate aluminium I could make it myself.

cheers

Alan

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Hey Alan,

Save yourself the trouble --.. I already have mounting details worked out. If you want a mount plate, PM me. 

Check

 

I was concerned about space for the physical size of the R/R. 

 

 

 

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  • 4 months later...
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Just as update - fitted an adapter plate so that the RR mounts horizontally. The plate screws into the mounting holes that were for the OEM RR and then the new RR screws into tapped M6 holes in the 8mm thick aluminium mounting plate.

20171112_112450.thumb.jpg.407c912529e13cfdea80c5ed5f08829e.jpg

20171112_143829.thumb.jpg.5a0fc356b98b8960b331f9e448c1c2db.jpg

 

I have attached the AutoCAD dwg file taht I sent to the local fabricator in case it is any use to anyone. It is just a rectangular plate that was cut by the supplier and then I drilled/tapped the holes as required.

SH847 Mounting Plate.dwg

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On 10/13/2017 at 6:07 PM, mello dude said:

 

Bumping this. - Looking for a few testers (first come, first served, some shipping donation appreciated, US only for now) -

- I laser cut out first test flip plates for the SH847 R/R.   Mount up on a 6th gen.  

 

But first so this isnt total folly. --- IF you have the R/R in hand..  spot check the mounting holes on it. --- 100mm? --- I dont remember where I got that number, but I set that dimension on the plates.

 

Caveat -- I dont have a 6th gen for tryout, you will have to tell me -- move holes up or down or, rotate 10 degrees or.. .this really sucks and no workie at all.... 

 

Cheers gang.. :beer:

I know I am a little late to the party but I would be interested in buying a plate for my 6th gen.....not really sure which of the two rectifiers I am going with. Are they a better option to Rick's. 

 

Also, There don't seem to be many wires between the stator/recifier/battery/ground etc. Is there anything wrong with just rewiring the whole thing.....minus things like where it branches to the starter and instruments, etc ?

 

thanks

Joel

my voltage doesn't seem to be stable. It likes to bouce between 13.3 and 13.9 when driving. 

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You don't want a Ricks.

With either SH847 or SH020 you have 3 wires coming from the stator to the R/R. From the R/R you want to run red to the + terminal through a 30a fuse or breaker, and then the ground directly to the frame. That's all there is to it. Everything stock that you unplugged, just wrap it up and tuck it away. 

If you go with a kit from Roadster Cycle, you'll want the plug and terminals to crimp onto the stator wires. Don't add another connection between the stator and R/R.

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24 minutes ago, exwifeschewtoy said:

I know I am a little late to the party but I would be interested in buying a plate for my 6th gen.....not really sure which of the two rectifiers I am going with. Are they a better option to Rick's. 

 

Also, There don't seem to be many wires between the stator/recifier/battery/ground etc. Is there anything wrong with just rewiring the whole thing.....minus things like where it branches to the starter and instruments, etc ?

 

thanks

Joel

my voltage doesn't seem to be stable. It likes to bouce between 13.3 and 13.9 when driving. 

Hi - A very good source for R/R's is www.roadstercycle.com   -- Either the Shindengen FH020AA or the SH847  models are good R/Rs. (I am running the FH020AA) Quite a few guys are jumping to the newer SH847 series style. The series type has less wear and tear on stators.. 

 

I have given away several FlipPlates designed for the SH847 to the point I now know that they fit and work out fine. 

So I do have mount plates kits for both the FH020aa and the SH847.. 

The FH020 FlipPlate is now $15.95 and the SH847 is $17.95.. Fasteners are included. Shipping is $7.00 for US.

(Major apologies, but no more shipping to New Zealand or Australia. - Too many shipments have gotten lost.) 

-- Both are less cost than the Roadstercycle mount product.  

I guess I should add, these are designed for the 6th gen, although I used one on my 5th gen as a heat sink. 

 

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Can I get your address so I can send you out a check or money order.  I am in no hurry for it to get here so you can send it at your convenience. I guess the smart thing is to go with the SH847.  

 

I would like to rewire a good portion of the stator/rectifier/batter/ ground after Honda does my recall harness. I see that it is popular to direct solder the rect to the stator bypassing the plug.  Is that the first plug on the stator after it leaves the stator housing? Or is it a second plug closer to the reg/rec?  

 

They sell a plug for the SH847 that allows you to use your own wires. Is there something similar for the stator so that I don't have to solder connections which even done right adds some resistance....doesn't it?

 

Hope this is clearer than mud.

Joel

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14 minutes ago, exwifeschewtoy said:

Can I get your address so I can send you out a check or money order.  I am in no hurry for it to get here so you can send it at your convenience. I guess the smart thing is to go with the SH847.  

 

I would like to rewire a good portion of the stator/rectifier/batter/ ground after Honda does my recall harness. I see that it is popular to direct solder the rect to the stator bypassing the plug.  Is that the first plug on the stator after it leaves the stator housing? Or is it a second plug closer to the reg/rec?  

 

They sell a plug for the SH847 that allows you to use your own wires. Is there something similar for the stator so that I don't have to solder connections which even done right adds some resistance....doesn't it?

 

Hope this is clearer than mud.

Joel

In the photos above, you see a connector that plugs into the R/R --- the wires on the end of that can be direct soldered/heat shrinked.  - I have an assortment of crimp tools, so on occasion I have done an "extreem" barrel connector thing with overlapping the wires and double crimping it together, then adding the heat shrinking. (No issues..) (Gotta practice more soldering!)

 

I will PM you about the mount plate. 

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