Jump to content

Cam reinstall - timing help needed


Stray

Recommended Posts

  • Member Contributer

Refreshed fork oil because seals look good and there are no leaks. 

 

Supported bike on centre stand and put a 25 litre drum of water on the rear to weigh it backwards and lift front wheel off the ground. Sorry, no pic but you get the idea - just weigh the back down as much as possible. You could also use a bag of sand or cement. I had the water drum handy. 

 

Before you start on forks, undo the top nut one turn whilst they are still held by the yokes. You'll thank yourself later. 

 

Remove front wheel (don't lose spacers), undo yoke bolts and slide forks out the bottom. 

 

Remove internals and keep parts separate from left and right fork. Clean them off with Paraffin, thinners, wd40, diesel or whatever you like. 

 

Now to clean out the fork. 

 

First, tip out the old oil. You'll find it stinks something fierce and has lots of metal shards in it. 

 

Then wash it out with a solvent/cleaner of your choice. There is no definitive way. This is how I did it: 

 

1. Fill both forks up with Cola, pump them and leave over night. Tip it out next day after pumping some more. 

 

2. Fill both forks up with diesel, pump them and leave over night. Tip it out next day after pumping some more.

 

3. Full both forks up with thinners, pump them and leave overnight. Tip it out next day after pumping some more.

 

Did it this way because I can just fill/tip on the way to work. Spread over the working week I spent about 15 minutes doing this altogether. 

 

At each cleaning phase I pumped the inner tube 20 times followed by the damper rod about 15 times. Just trying to get all residues out.  

 

Used Silkolene 10w fluid as per manual and each fork takes just under 1/2 litre. I made this fork oil level tool with a syringe, some hose and a stick (to keep the hose straight). 

 

IMG_4470.thumb.JPG.25bdaf353c52ff261b870f7b1ed0b01c.JPGIMG_4471.thumb.JPG.b12ed3330a7e14598acea22603b883c4.JPG

 

It works a treat! 

 

Position the syringe flange on the lip of the fork and syphon out any excess oil from the fork. Air gap should be 130mm so that is the exact length of the syringe from its flange to end of hose. 

 

Air gap is measured with spring and spacers out and fork compressed. 

 

Manual says to reinstall spring with tight coils towards bottom but these look like straight springs to me. What do you think? 

 

IMG_4476.thumb.JPG.ba68df0ef6825e573c2853e33da462d5.JPG

 

Perhaps my springs arent original? They have this stamped on the end: 

 

IMG_4474.thumb.JPG.9791844e722f29f0d50fb80bbb7e6827.JPG

 

That reads: 08644-80/L646

 

Anyway, wiped everything down with some ACF50, regressed the spindle/wheel and buttoned it all up again. 

 

Cleaned and rotated the floating spacers on brake discs/rotors and called it a day. 

 

Job done! 

IMG_4472.JPG

IMG_4486.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 135
  • Created
  • Last Reply
  • Member Contributer

The refreshed forks only have to hold up until spring when a full Yamaha R1 front end will be grafted on. 

 

Picked these bits up from a 2014 R1 today...

 

IMG_4486.thumb.JPG.ee3a6186f3da7842fb6b2c3c183859c5.JPG

 

Those are 6 pot radial calipers and I am very excited about how they will feel with these forks on the VFR. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Tried to balance the throttle bodies but I've run into problems and am hoping you guys can help. 

 

The Morgan Carb Tune Pro shows readings are way out. 

 

IMG_4487.thumb.JPG.1246349b741a0d6c8bc3ba180b38daae.JPG

 

Cylinder 1 (far left) is fixed and has the highest reading. Only cylinders 2-4 are adjustable on the 5th gen. 

 

IMG_4488.JPG

 

Pic shows no.7 spanner on throttle body adjusters at right side of air box. 

 

Trouble is I just can't get cylinder 2 to rise any more. I've even gone as far as completely unscrewing the little adjuster and all it does is stumble and sound worse. Whichever way I turn the adjuster I cannot get cylinder 2 as high as cylinder 1. 

 

I even switched vacuum hoses to make sure it wasn't a problem with the manometer or hose - same differential. 

 

Can anyone help? 

 

Am I supposed to adjust the cylinders in some specific order? Is there a trick here? My carbed bikes were so much easier to adjust...

 

Bike sounds like a bag of rusty spanners tumbling down the stairs. 

 

After a full hour of messing about and half a tank of fuel the gauge actually looks WORSE that when I started! 

 

IMG_4490.thumb.JPG.5384ffcb78605e70fbe5337eeedcb510.JPG

 

Oh, and the idle speed adjuster is a Philips head screw, not flat as the Haynes manual suggests.

 

Any help with balancing throttle bodies will be gratefully received. 

 

Thanks in advance, 

 

Stray 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Are you sure you are on the right adjuster?

Cylinder 2, 3 and 4 are adjustable on a 5th gen.

1 and 2 are adjusted the same, 3 is adjusted to 20mmHg less then 1, and 4 to 10mmHg less then 1.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Forgot to say I also upgraded the charging system with a new Suzuki VStrom 1000 2014 regulator rectifier. Apparently this is the best one to get. 

 

The old RR was toast and the connectors from stator to RR were looking tired. 

 

IMG_4195.thumb.JPG.318a4335280f8160f3b7dc7cdd44e20b.JPGIMG_4196.thumb.JPG.8997cf7bdb2b2cee3e5d544d940107fe.JPG

 

New RR and new connectors purchased along with really thick cable to make it bulletproof. 

 

The new RR is a monster compared to the original one but is apparently the best RR money can buy at the moment. Model is called SH847 and I bought it cheap on eBay. 

 

IMG_4489.thumb.JPG.b097d203f6d180efdfae88fed80808ae.JPG

 

You can see where I applied adhesive heat shrink to the stator/RR connector to completely isolate it from water ingress. The heat shrink should also bind it together to eliminate issues caused by vibration. The final line of defence is a good spray of ACF50 inside the connector. 

 

I've mounted it with some foam to further reduce vibration and have reused the original weather shroud to further improve water protection. 

 

In the last pic you can see the two red cables coming out the right bottom. Those provide charge to the loom via the black connector in pic 1. Instead I've wired them directly to the battery to provide direct charge without voltage drop and avoid future problems with another burned out connector. It also leaves the old black connector free to cannibalise for switched accessories like heated grips and vests (no need for relays or fuses as those are already built into the loom).  

 

Hopefully my average crimping skills will hold up and the charging system will never need attention again. 

 

With engine idling the RR barely feels warm. Charging voltage is spot on. 

 

Another job done! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer
47 minutes ago, VFROZ said:

Are you sure you are on the right adjuster?

Cylinder 2, 3 and 4 are adjustable on a 5th gen.

1 and 2 are adjusted the same, 3 is adjusted to 20mmHg less then 1, and 4 to 10mmHg less then 1.

You're right VFROZ, only cylinders 2, 3 and 4 are adjustable on a 5th Gen. cylinder 1 is the benchmark the others must work around (with 3 and 4 slightly off as you say). 

 

The problem is I can't get 2 to adjust so it matches 1. Nothing I do has any real effect. 

 

I had a crack at 3 and 4 but no luck there either.

 

Something must be amiss...there is something I've missed and can't think what it is. 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

I would first check that you're on the right hoses. 

Sitting on bike #1 is left rear, #2 is left front, #3 is right rear and #4 is right front. 

 

And the adjusters go 3-2-4 left to right as per picture.

 

IMG_2367.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer
On 9/10/2017 at 6:17 PM, Stray said:

Forgot to say I also upgraded the charging system with a new Suzuki VStrom 1000 2014 regulator rectifier. Apparently this is the best one to get. 

 

The old RR was toast and the connectors from stator to RR were looking tired. 

 

IMG_4195.thumb.JPG.318a4335280f8160f3b7dc7cdd44e20b.JPGIMG_4196.thumb.JPG.8997cf7bdb2b2cee3e5d544d940107fe.JPG

 

New RR and new connectors purchased along with really thick cable to make it bulletproof. 

 

The new RR is a monster compared to the original one but is apparently the best RR money can buy at the moment. Model is called SH847 and I bought it cheap on eBay. 

 

IMG_4489.thumb.JPG.b097d203f6d180efdfae88fed80808ae.JPG

 

You can see where I applied adhesive heat shrink to the stator/RR connector to completely isolate it from water ingress. The heat shrink should also bind it together to eliminate issues caused by vibration. The final line of defence is a good spray of ACF50 inside the connector. 

 

I've mounted it with some foam to further reduce vibration and have reused the original weather shroud to further improve water protection. 

 

In the last pic you can see the two red cables coming out the right bottom. Those provide charge to the loom via the black connector in pic 1. Instead I've wired them directly to the battery to provide direct charge without voltage drop and avoid future problems with another burned out connector. It also leaves the old black connector free to cannibalise for switched accessories like heated grips and vests (no need for relays or fuses as those are already built into the loom).  

 

Hopefully my average crimping skills will hold up and the charging system will never need attention again. 

 

With engine idling the RR barely feels warm. Charging voltage is spot on. 

 

Another job done! 

 

Couple charging system notes ---

 

Really-- you need to cut that stator connector out of your system with a direct solder up and marine heat shrink or a over kill overlap butt connector crimp it job with the heat shrink also..  That connector is the number one reason charging systems die.... 

 

Also - hope you put in a HD 30 amp fuse box in between the positive lead from your R/R to the battery. - Without it, and something goes amiss, it will be quite ugly. (Suggestion -

http://www.cycleterminal.com/fuse-boxes.html   )  MetriPack 630 40 amp capacity

 

Would like to see a photo of your mounting on the SH847.... I have been tempted to go with one but conserned about the fitting. 

 

Cheers,

:beer:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer
On 11/09/2017 at 5:00 AM, VFROZ said:

And the adjusters go 3-2-4 left to right as per picture.

 

IMG_2367.JPG

VFROZ, that's a very helpful tip. I had the right hoses (they are numbered) but I was using the wrong adjusters. 

 

Will be be using your guide this weekend when I have another crack at it. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer
On 12/09/2017 at 3:24 AM, mello dude said:

Would like to see a photo of your mounting on the SH847.... I have been tempted to go with one but conserned about the fitting. 

 

Cheers,

:beer:

Thanks for the charging tips, Mello Dude. I've got an inline fuse as you suggest. IMG_4495.thumb.JPG.7429934d9989c944538afb5b8aa5ab37.JPG

 

Not as clever as the link you sent me but it will do. I may follow your advice and cut that stator/RR connector out entirely. 

 

The RR fitment is as follows: 

 

IMG_4496.thumb.JPG.2df68ef13ee4e11d1801ce37945c73f9.JPGIMG_4497.thumb.JPG.4e04e194603564fceb4047796a0704a5.JPG

 

It fits...just! You'll see I've used the rearmost mounting hole and a cable tie for temporary fitment. 

 

This is what it looks like with the cowl on: 

 

IMG_4498.thumb.JPG.aee5819ded1466f4dfe2f6d62ca271df.JPG

 

The mounting bits are fine and the RR just touches the cowl. You can make it fit better by filing down the top-left fin a little. 

 

IMG_4499.thumb.JPG.9ef005db7c88179e822c161e08c97be4.JPG

 

It fits MUCH better if you mount it sideways with the electrical connectors facing the front of the bike. I'm trying to force an upright mounting because I'm worried about water being driven into the connectors when riding but that's probably not a real problem as they are very watertight (better than OEM anyway). 

 

I'm also thinking that water will drip off better if it is upright but again not sure that is a valid concern. 

 

The 3rd option is to mount it with connectors facing rearwards but that tilts it slightly upwards and may trap moisture when bike is parked in rain. 

 

I'm still toying with how to best mount it but here's the take-home message: IT DOES FIT! 

 

Stray

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Thanks for that Stray. If I would go that route, probably would go connector forward...

 

I looked up prices on the popular online parts places and it's going for around $150....

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer
16 hours ago, mello dude said:

Thanks for that Stray. If I would go that route, probably would go connector forward...

 

I looked up prices on the popular online parts places and it's going for around $150....

 

Mello, here are some pics of sideways mounting: IMG_4501.thumb.JPG.d3f30569b8d7960ae0da73a2360ba3a4.JPG

 

Completely clear of the seat cowl when fitted: 

 

IMG_4502.thumb.JPG.4f538c340a00f67848d08cd1785baba8.JPG

 

Drilled a new hole (does this count as lightening the motorcycle?) where my finger is. You can see the old holes on either side. 

 

IMG_4503.thumb.JPG.ca162e27476ca3cd893d6019bae4d8f7.JPG

 

Bolt goes through top lug and cable tie on the bottom lug. Unfortunately there is nothing solid behind the bottom lug to bolt on so I pulled a cable tie through the gap between tube and plate, right next to the weld. I think this is solid enough, no? I've left the cable tie uncut to give an idea of placement. IMG_4504.thumb.JPG.527eac9f313a8a6469ae49cbade50737.JPG

 

You could drill and mount through the top tube and bottom tube if you moved the new hole a bit higher but I feel that would weaken the subframe. 

 

The law of unexpected consequences struck...unexpectedly. Once RR was mounted I couldn't reattach the bottom connector (where I'm pointing) without unbolting the RR as rear foot peg was in the way! 

 

IMG_4505.thumb.JPG.b0ec5a570df05751e2e9e9f2969cbd0d.JPG

 

Anyway, another job done. 

 

Mello Dude, look out on eBay for Suzuki VStrom 1000 RRs. Got mine for a bargain that way. There may be other bikes with this same RR but I don't know them. You'll also have to budget for the Furukawa connectors to match, unless the breaker includes these from the loom. My guy refused because he wanted to sell the loom separately and didn't want to damage it by cutting off the connectors. 

 

Even if the breaker gives the connectors you'll have to get the special crimps that go with it (very hard to source in England) so I just bought a kit. Or you could butt-splice onto the wires from the old VStrom loom. 

 

Easy to do when you've got all the kit. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer
On 11/09/2017 at 5:00 AM, VFROZ said:

the adjusters go 3-2-4 left to right as per picture.

 

IMG_2367.JPG

VFROZ, your tip was invaluable and really helped. Managed to get 1,3 and 4 dialled in as per manual. 

 

Unfortunately cylinder 2 is not playing ball. 

 

Even with the adjuster wound all the way out vacuum will not rise to match cylinder 1. In this pic the adjuster is actually removed completely and only the frame stops it from falling out. 

 

IMG_4511.thumb.JPG.e1af34fef19d08ce50643cefb247b943.JPG

 

Vacuum gauge looks like this:

 

IMG_4510.thumb.JPG.0b033f30a79d18b58d78f22454ed5886.JPG

 

Must be something wrong with no 2. Sprayed a little WD40 in there to try flush the debris out but don't really have good access.

 

When I get the chance I'll attach a thin hose to the vacuum cleaner and try that. If that doesn't work the throttle bodies may have to come off. 

 

DAMN IT! 

 

This is my first fuel injected bike. Is the adjuster like the air/fuel screws on carbs? Will it have a rubber washer in front where it seats in the throttle body? If so, that washer could be dislodged and just needs straightening out. 

 

Any hints/tips gratefully received. 

 

Stray

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

I would be checking that the vacuum tubing that is connected to the gauge is not leaking on #2. You might be able to check that simply by switching the hoses around, or you could get a T fitting and connect to #2 then split to two gauge hoses and see if they both read the same.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer
On 14/09/2017 at 11:24 PM, VFROZ said:

Here is what they look like. 

It seems it might be blocked. Or a hose from under TBs has damage/come off 

 

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Honda/Motorcycle/2001/VFR800FI+A/THROTTLE+BODY+COMP./parts.html

Thanks VFROZ, that's exactly the info I was after. Unfortunately I was never able to adjust no.2 no matter how hard I tried. 

 

Thanks for the tip Terry. I switched the hoses and confirmed problem is with cylinder no.2. 

 

Put a vacuum cleaner on the hose and the adjuster just in case some debris was in there...no dice. 

 

Used some spray lube in case something needed washing out...no dice. 

 

Even sucked on the hose with my mouth (ooh!) to see if I could sense any resistance between one hose and another...no dice. 

 

In the end I adjusted them so they balanced at part open throttle. Only idle is out on no.2 which isn't the end of the world. That will have to do for now until I pull the throttle bodies off for rebuild next spring. 

 

Next Problem:

 

Tested the flapper and and it doesn't seem to work as it should. Vacuum on the actuator does lift the flap but no amount of engine revving works with the hose attached.

 

Tried it in gear (on centre stand) until redline...no dice. Pulled out the neutral switch wire as specified by the manual but bike won't even start like that (anyone know why? Manual says it should start). Again...no dice. 

 

At this rate I may just wedge it permanently open and call it done. 

 

Anyway, with most of the hard work done I finally got to cleaning the rusted heap. Wish the PO would have dragged a wet cloth over the poor thing just once - 19 years of accumulated crud took some shifting! 

 

First step was to spray a tin of penetrating oil (the cheap stuff is OK for this kind of work) on the baked on grease. Agitate with a toothbrush. Filth was coming off in chunks! 

 

IMG_4512.thumb.JPG.d3e9cabcfeeb442b6f67160b67c24112.JPG

 

Let it soak in a bit and rinse off with a second tin of penetrating oil. Agitate again with another toothbrush (first one too filthy to reuse). 

 

IMG_4513.thumb.JPG.beaaacbefa16a20f7958ff06a919d23d.JPG

 

Third wave is some Gunk engine degreaser applied with...yes, you guessed it...another toothbrush. I could see the bike starting to appear under the filth, which was running off beautifully. The amount of sh!t€ built up near the  side stand and clutch cover (where I may have a leak) was unbelievable! I was virtually sawing through it.  

 

IMG_4514.thumb.JPG.e1e05ef0c5c8dc3da51c140b922143ea.JPG

 

Fourth wave was jet wash with floor cleaning detergent. Normally I use dish soap but I just finished the last drop at lunchtime because washing dishes buys me bike-time from the Missus...

 

IMG_4515.thumb.JPG.b2972880b5f50c0ef86f71aa5501cccd.JPG

 

Starting to look better. The floor cleaner bottle says it needs no wiping off and leaves no residue. Bonus! 

 

Fifth and final wave was a judicious application of ACF50. This is basically WD40 on steroids. Really good stuff but almost impossible to spray properly because it is so gloopy. I used a Scottoiler FS365 spray bottle and a couple of old t-shirts to rub it in and give the final clean.

 

IMG_4516.thumb.JPG.d5701e72efaf53db61e2d8e0dcbd0031.JPG

 

Starting to look like a decent bike now but 19 years of abuse and lack of maintenance have taken their toll. Some of the rust is irreversible. All I can do is stop it getting worse with a good coating of ACF50. 

 

Each phase had a very small impact but together they made a big difference. Just look at the last photo compared to the first. 

 

Now I just need to decide what to do about that blasted flapper. Again, all advice is gratefully received. 

 

 

Stray 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

The flapper is driven by vacuum from the engine intake, via a solenoid valve to turn it on and off. If you aren't getting any action at the flapper then my guess is either the vacuum hose is off or the solenoid is disconnected. If the vacuum hose is off/leaking, maybe this is part of your synch problem? There's also a one-way valve in the circuit that needs to be functional. It's not really obvious, but I believe the vacuum hose to the one-way valve and solenoid is connected to the #2 inlet tract under the throttle bodies.

 

Regarding starting with the neutral switch off, the starter relay ground path is either through the neutral switch (in neutral) or through the clutch switch (pulled in) and the sidestand switch (in up position). If the stand was down, it will not start like that. If the stand is up, you still need the clutch pulled in. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Terry, looks like you were in to something. BIG THANKS for your input! 

 

I've been pouring over the vacuum hose diagrams in the service manual and it looks like I'm missing one hose. PO must have lost it or something. Might explain the poor running and synch problems reported above. 

 

In the pic below my hoses end at the one way valve (label around 5 o'clock in diagram). On my bike there is nothing coming out the left and looping down, whereas the picture clearly shows there should be s hose there. 

 

IMG_4555.thumb.PNG.056e397f0ded78036952065956c6cb39.PNG

Problem is I cannot for the life of me work out where the other end of that hose loops to. Any ideas? Does it go to the throttle body, and if so, where? 

 

For good measure I vacuumed the entire area, starting with the engine valley, then the starter valve spigots, throttle body air hoses and finally the combustion chambers. 

 

IMG_4549.thumb.JPG.72d292777c8929d6ab9e731a8fc28c60.JPGIMG_4551.thumb.JPG.46d17c5a3d9bd60986d6479c7ae9b1f1.JPGIMG_4552.thumb.JPG.ac95424a9dbfedbd98cf49e9464a5bc8.JPGIMG_4553.thumb.JPG.68ca245811a77dc88b55e5a49519ad00.JPGIMG_4554.thumb.JPG.d37a4faba057bb6543bdcb1cd1e3a6f1.JPG

 

That's a hose pipe duct taped to a vacuum cleaner. Very useful for cleaning hard-to-reach parts and also sucking rust out of old petrol tanks.

 

If there was any debris blocking a passageway hopefully it is history now. 

 

Was sorely tempted to remove the throttle body and replace all coolant hoses but they look OK and disturbing things on a 20 year old bike can do more harm than good. 

 

So, does anyone know where the hose coming out the one way valve goes? Does it have a hose number? 

 

Stray

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer
1 hour ago, Terry said:

From page 5-59 in the manual:

vac hoses.png

Terry, you're a bl00dy GENIUS - you've nailed it again! 

 

And you were also spot on about it connecting to cylinder 2. It's been driving me mad. Cant thank you enough, mate. 

 

Ebay hose here I come...

 

Stray

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Hope that all works out for you Stray. 

 

You should be able to find a suitable vacuum hose at your local autoparts store, should just be 3.5mm id. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer
On 25/09/2017 at 10:14 PM, Terry said:

Hope that all works out for you Stray. 

 

You should be able to find a suitable vacuum hose at your local autoparts store, should just be 3.5mm id. 

Got it balanced beautifully thanks to your help, Terry.

 

 

 

IMG_4566.thumb.JPG.fe40a316d5c80e4a136056ce5b376f41.JPGI was amazed how much that one-way valve had thrown off cylinder 2. 

 

Thanks again, 

 

Stray

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

A quick update to show how I refreshed my tired grey plastic trim panels. 

 

Used an old gypsy formula: 60/40 mix lacquer thinner and boiled linseed oil. I only had white spirit in the shed so used that (and an old pair of socks!). 

 

IMG_4569.thumb.JPG.8fa76bc853ce8f5369436b9ecc8ffd94.JPG

 

Application is a doodle. Stir the mixture well (it separates), dip a rough cloth in it and rub across the surface of your trim parts. Allow it to sit for a few minutes and rub off with another cloth. 

 

This this is what it looked like before: 

 

IMG_4567.thumb.JPG.2bb664f3042cde1e837012eea40c8d93.JPG

 

Here's what it looks like after: 

 

IMG_4568.thumb.JPG.47a4676ab15ef4b70ea708d68d5697de.JPG

 

Hard to tell from the pics but it is a darker black and shinier. Took years off this part. Not perfect but much better. 

 

The Jeep guys do this to their black wheel arches and it lasts about a year. Gets a bit better every time you do it. I've been using it on white garden furniture for years. 

 

Observations:

1. A stronger solvent may have worked better in my case.

2. Scratches show up more on shinier surfaces so sand them out if you have bad ones.

3. If you could include some UV stabiliser in the mixture you may have longer-lasting results. 

4. Some guys have had luck doing this with ATF oil but I've never tried it myself. 

5. Rough cloth works well with thinner to rub away old damaged plastic on surface and penetrate plastic so linseed oil can infuse properly. The thinner therefore acts as cleaner and penetrant. Cloth acts like abrasive. You may want to try a scourer on a hidden bit to see if it improves results. 

6. Some guys use a heat gun and the results look great BUT that draws oils out of the plastic and makes it brittle over the long term. This ADDS oil and can be used indefinitely for years. Linseed is also much faster than heat gun. 

 

Best bit is it costs virtually nothing so have at it! 

 

Stray

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer
31 minutes ago, Stray said:

A quick update to show how I refreshed my tired grey plastic trim panels. 

 

Used an old gypsy formula: 60/40 mix lacquer thinner and boiled linseed oil. I only had white spirit in the shed so used that (and an old pair of socks!). 

 

 

 

 

Or use Back To Black Bumper shine.

 

ready mixed, designed for the job and less likely to contain solvents or anything else that might degrade the plastic.

303032.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Back to Black only lasts about a week whereas linseed lasts a year. It is designed for convenience rather than longevity. 

 

Plus, it sounds like a website your boss wouldn't want you surfing on company equipment...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy.