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Should I do it!?!


Josty

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So, I have always been intrigued by the RC/VFR bikes, but until last week had never heard of or done any research on the V4 VTECH models. Well, I was on craigslist and found a 2003 VFR800 that appears to be in great shape. It has just over 3,000 miles, and appears to be incredibly clean. Best part, they only want $3,500, which from what I can tell is a damn good price for a bike in its condition.

 

 I will obviously be checking out the VIN and making sure there is nothing fishy there. I do have some concerns as it appears to have been on craigslist 3 different times with different phone numbers. All cities close to here, but all different photos and contact info. The bike has pretty unique grips installed on it so I'm 99% sure its the same bike. Not sure what the purpose would be or if it just got traded/sold repeatedly in the last couple of months. anyway....

 

I've been doing some digging on the forums, but is there anything I should look at more closely before I hand the owner a check? I want to make sure there isn't common problems that I may be getting myself into. If not, I'm sure you'll all be hearing from me soon. Dont think I'll make it a month before I do the Delkevic exhaust, sounds so good!

 

vfr.jpg

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Looks like a nice bike, but the Craigslist thing is a big  caution flag for the bike and your safety......

 

BTW - the grips are kuryakyn ISO grips, popular with the cruiser crowd.

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bike is good price. Low miles so only thing to worry about is that it is a real deal.   Make an easy short list of questions:  Is pink slip in your name,    is it registered currently and in your name.  what is owners name? You need this info as a minimum at least.  Any deviation on the paperwork... don't go any further.

 

Now,  call all the adds running and see if you get the same person.  If not,  hang up.

 

Next,  plan to meet in a public parking lot in broad daylight.  Some police departments provide a Craig's List deal room. Call them.   Go with a friend waiting in a car while you wait in the lot.   Have friend hold money.   Your friend can dial the police or give you the money if valid deal.   

 

Keep looking if this is bogus.   You can find a low mileage VFR for 3500 easily and at that price is should be good.   I got a 1997 VFR750 with 7770 miles on it a couple of months ago for about that.  It was mint and the model I was looking for for several months.

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I already met with the guy and saw the bike in person. After talking with him for a while, I learned he buys and sells cars for a living. That s not always bad, as a lot of those guys do that business honestly, but sadly a lot of them dont. He did say he took the bike on trade for a dune buggy, which he had adequate information about. One of the CL adds DID say that the person was looking to trade for an ATV or dune buggy. It just makes me nervous that its been passed around like a dirty magazine the last couple of years.

 

Ran the VIN and the bike looked to be one owner up until 2014, and then switched hands quite a bit. Last title transfer was June of this year.

 

Recent Title Information

DATE             ST     MILEAGE            VIN

Jun 1, 2017    IA    UNKNOWN   JH2RC46xxxxxxxx65
Historical Title Information
Jun 24, 2015   IA   UNKNOWN   JH2RC46xxxxxxxx65
Mar 13, 2015  IA   UNKNOWN    JH2RC46xxxxxxxx65
Oct 17, 2014   IA   UNKNOWN    JH2RC46xxxxxxxx65

 

I think I am going to call him and ask him for timeline details, and make sure the title issued date matches up with the title on here.

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3,000 miles is silly low.

So If the the paperworkk/registration things work out, test ride the bike, do a few solid accellerations and strong brakings.

Take a multimeter with you, pop the seat and measure voltage with running engine at idle and 5,000rpm.

Ideally you want to measure the AC output from the altenator too, that means takink a body panel off to get to the 3 yellow wires

 

The guy is a trader so he should have NO qualms about this.  If he does, walk.

 

Tyre DOT code will tell you their age.

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I'd pass on this bike in a heart beat. By the book, it should only be on it's second oil change.  What kind of oil is in it and how old is it??  Too many owners for the low mileage; weird grips indicate amateur owner(s) or just poor taste from someone; the add on stickers look like shit; if the seller buys and sells he paid even less for it; it's listed on Craigslist which brings no seller /  buyer accountability or rating with it so I just don't trust CL for this kind of thing.  Just too many strange / red flags for me.  There's a lot of used bikes for sale out there to deal with this particular bike.  Just my opinion FWIW.  

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Look at telltale areas on the bike that show wear and tear is greater than posted miles: pitted fork lowers from stone chips, worn rubber on footpegs, worn anodizing on foot/boot guards, excessive oxidation on headers and catalytic converter, yellow or brown brake and clutch fluid, etc. Check battery with multimeter with motor at idle and while seat is off check rear brake fluid for discolouration and check electrical wires, connectors, relay and fuse holder around the battery. Let bike warm up and ensure it runs and accelerates smoothly... Perhaps it has been stationary long enough for the front tyre to develop a flat spot.

If you are happy with these and vin checks for outstanding fines or other legal issues, once in your possession check air filter and coolant, etc.

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Bent has a very good point about avoiding this bike. While it could be coincidence that the bike has changed hands many times it could also be that it has a problem the other owners could not fix, but you could use that for negotiation and just solve the problem. I think that the best thing that could happen is that you identify a severe performance problem, because then the reason for the sales becomes known, and you can just fix it. So if the condition is pristine and the mileage makes perfect sense then continue with your analysis.

 

The low mileage and infrequent use of the engine puts it at risk for dried up gaskets and seals, such as valve cover gaskets, starter valve seals, and coolant hoses.  Run your fingers along any hoses and gaskets you can reach looking for weeping fluid that hasn't quite dripped yet.

 

On a test drive, go perfectly steady at 35, 36, 37, 38, and 39 MPH. Be perceptive of lean surges which can happen at one of these specific speeds. This would indicate either tuning of the starter valves is required, a leak due to dried seals in them, or both. Note the idle. If it is raised much over 1200 rpm that could have been done to offset a vacuum imbalance and to help it idle without stalling.

 

Start it cold and feel the radiator, it should stay cold until the thermostat opens. If it slowly warms with the temperature gauge the thermostat is stuck open, another  common problem.

Every issue can be fixed, but some of these items can be labor intensive.


Aside from the fluid checks mentioned, look at the plastic of the reservoirs. If the fluid is clear but the plastic is stained dark, then you know the original fluid sat for a long time. The reason I mention this is that these bikes have an extensive linked brake system, with more nooks and crannies for old fluid to sit. Thus it can be more effort to refresh this system then you may expect.

 

If you have not, go to CycleTrader and select NEW VFR800s. These originally had an MSRP of $12,500 but are selling for sub-$7000 and even sub-$6000. I know that's a lot more than this bike, but after you add some accessories, you may come awfully close to some of the new/leftovers.

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