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US/AC II 8th gen fuel system mods help please


Samuelx

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Hi All,
 
I’m in the middle of some mods and am asking for a little help/guidance/advice/feedback please.
 
2015 VFR800 deluxe/US model (AC II, I believe)
 
I’ve been referencing/using my hard copy of the Honda service manual but here is a copy for anyone who may be able to help but doesn’t have a copy.
 
(Big Thanks to Amoreira88 !!)
 
I just finished removing the Pair Control Solenoid Valve (7-22 in the manual) and the front and rear Pair Check Valve covers and hoses.  (I replaced the covers with block off plates from Smart Moto http://www.ebay.com/itm/PAIR-Valve-Eliminator-SMOG-block-off-plates-Honda-CBR-VFR-800-600-1100-1000-PCV-/252055880649?vxp=mtr&hash=item3aafb383c9 .  I left all the baffle plates in and reused the OEM Pair Check Valves after removing the reed assemblies (maybe it’s me but I think the phillips head screws are break away – I had to use vice grips to remove them and all 4 broke off)).  Disconnected the 2P connector (leaving the MAP connector in place) and taped it closed.
 
I also removed the Intake Duct Valve Diaphragm (7-24) and snorkel from the Air Cleaner Housing as well as the EVAP Canister (7-28).  I rerouted the hose from the fuel tank to the EVAP canister down to the left side next to a couple of other hoses but do I still need that hose attached to the fuel tank since the canister is gone?
 
What I’m thinking about next is removing the Intake Duct Control Solenoid Valve (7-25/26), one way valve, vacuum chamber and hoses.  Does anyone know if that would be a good/bad idea?  I was hoping to just remove all that and tape off the 2P connector…  ??
 
I was also hoping to remove the EVAP Purge Control Solenoid Valve (7-27) and hoses and tape off the 2P connector.  Any problems with that?  If that’s feasible, I wasn’t sure what to do with the EVAP purge control solenoid valve-to-throttle body hose [2] (7-27) – since it seems to go through the valve and then down to the canister (which is no longer there), I was thinking to just leave it hanging down out of the way?
 
While I’ve got everything apart/exposed, any other thoughts or recommendations on things to do to my bike before I put everything back together?
 
Thanks in advance for any help!
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Well, I took the plunge today.  Removed the air cleaner to access the intake duct control solenoid valve and removed it all.  Taped off the 2P connector and blocked off the one remaining hose going to the throttle body.  Reinstalled the air cleaner and also swapped out the OEM air filter for a piper cross - like a few others have mentioned, it's easier to put the filter into the upper lid first and then massage it onto the lower half (the contour/outline of the piper cross I got, from an authorized dealer, did not exactly match the air cleaner and a little working the edges in was required - nothing too difficult).  Then I removed the EVAP purge control solenoid valve assembly.  Taped off the 2P connector and blocked off the hose going to the throttle body.  Reconnected the tank and primed the fuel pump a few times.  Bike started ok, idled ok, and no engine light came on so that was good.  There was a significant increase in noise (growl) from under the fuel tank (I had also removed the intake duct diaphragm and taped the flapper valve down, open position).  I'm not sure if it was me, but throttle response seemed a tad soft or slow and there was some popping from the exhaust upon sudden throttle chop from higher (over 7000) revs.  I didn't get to take it out on the road because I have some more mods in store and I didn't have time to button everything up and put the fairings back on.

 

If it's not my imagination and the system has changed enough to cause a difference in running condition, my next question is how long does it take for the ECU to adjust for the new set up?  (yes, I re-connected the MAP sensor and hose and the connector under the middle of the bottom half of the air cleaner)

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I wasn't under the impression the ECU on these bikes can "learn". Whatever adjustment the ECU would make would be instant and based on the data coming in from the different sensors located on the bike. Same as it always did. If anything were outside it's acceptable conditions it should produce an MLF code with the FI dashlight blinking a kind of Morse code with long flashes equalling 10 points and short flashes equalling 1 point, add them up and check the error in the workshop manual. Surely your mods must have generated an error code. I wonder what exactly the objective is and if not understanding what these components do or how they work might have some costly negative consequences. I myself have no idea.

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Hey Auspanglish, thanks for your reply.  Yeah, I wasn't sure if ECU response was instantaneous or not.  I'll have a better idea of how everything went when I'm finished with the other mods and actually take it out on the road. 

 

As far as I could tell, there were no signs or warnings of any trouble from the any of the instruments/dash.  I'll check it again later today.

 

I THINK I have a pretty decent grasp of what each component does.  I just wasn't sure if unplugging the electrical connectors to those parts and leaving them disconnected would cause a significant change in running condition or trigger an ECU error, or both.  Since PAIR removal, flapper valve, EVAP canister, and snorkel mods had already been successfully performed by members here and over at VFRW, I wasn't too worried about them.  I was just hoping to be able to remove all other related parts/systems.  I THINK the removal of the EVAP canister is going to make oil changes a little easier because there looks to be a little more room in that area now for my hands/tools. 

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