Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

 

I am in need of some advice. I have a 2014 VFR800F with a parasitic drain. Multimeter in series with (-) battery shows 0.068 Amp draw when bike is off. Battery dies after a few days of sitting... Something that caught my attention, there is a high pitched noise coming from the regulator/rectifier when the bike is completely off. When I unplugged the R/R, the drain goes away. Ok, seem like i found the problem but.. before I shell out 150ish for a new one.. I want to know if there could be a problem with the ignition switch not opening fully with the key off and "telling" the regulator to continue to pull power. 

 

I tested the diodes in the regulator/rectifier and they seem ok. Also, there is over 14V at the battery with the bike on... so it seems to be doing it's job in charging the battery just won't shut the hell off when I pull the key out. 

 

Thanks for any and all advice!!!

 

P.S. if anyone has a wiring diagram I would be reaaally thankful!

 

-Jad

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey guys,
 
I am in need of some advice. I have a 2014 VFR800F with a parasitic drain. Multimeter in series with (-) battery shows 0.068 Amp draw when bike is off. Battery dies after a few days of sitting... Something that caught my attention, there is a high pitched noise coming from the regulator/rectifier when the bike is completely off. When I unplugged the R/R, the drain goes away. Ok, seem like i found the problem but.. before I shell out 150ish for a new one.. I want to know if there could be a problem with the ignition switch not opening fully with the key off and "telling" the regulator to continue to pull power. 
 
I tested the diodes in the regulator/rectifier and they seem ok. Also, there is over 14V at the battery with the bike on... so it seems to be doing it's job in charging the battery just won't shut the hell off when I pull the key out. 
 
Thanks for any and all advice!!!
 
P.S. if anyone has a wiring diagram I would be reaaally thankful!
 
-Jad

What's your email


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

If you pull the fuses out, then connect your multimeter across the fuse terminals you would be able to measure the current flow for each fused circuit and identify if one is faulty. There will always be some drain for the clock. If none of these circuits shows any drain then your issue would lie upstream. The RR certainly sounds suspect in this case, there should be nothing flowing through when the ignition is of so no reason for any sound. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, Terry said:

If you pull the fuses out, then connect your multimeter across the fuse terminals you would be able to measure the current flow for each fused circuit and identify if one is faulty. There will always be some drain for the clock. If none of these circuits shows any drain then your issue would lie upstream. The RR certainly sounds suspect in this case, there should be nothing flowing through when the ignition is of so no reason for any sound. 

Thanks for the reply!

 

Yep, pulled the fuses one at a time.. none of them changed the current being drawn... I didn't pull the main fuse but it's the only one left... plus once i disconnected the RR the drain went away...

 

The thing I can't figure out... there is red and black to the batt... the 3 yellow to the stator.. .and a 4-pin connector on the RR... 

 

When I disconnect the 4-pin connector the drain is still their (RR still makes noise), however, if I disconnect and reconnect the battery and then flip the ignition on and off with that 4-pin connector disconnected, the RR never pulls any current... that's why I'm trying to figure out if that could have something to do with it... (I'm thinking it "initializes the RR" or "turn's it on"..however you want to say it) That's ultimately why I'm looking into this before outright buying a new RR. 

 

Thanks again for the help! I really appreciate it!

 

-Jad

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Hi Jad2477.

Doubt you have an ignition swutch issue. The 4p connector is for the Magnetic Pole Sensor and Diagnostic info. This is a very different R/R to previous gen VFR's. The main red lead goes direct to the Battery positive via Main 30a Fuse A, this would be where the R/R would be grabbing current draw from, so it does look like and internal issue in the R/R. Assume all connections and ground is good for the R/R?.

Good Luck.

Cheers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Grum said:

Hi Jad2477.

Doubt you have an ignition swutch issue. The 4p connector is for the Manetic Pole Sensor and Diagnotic info. This is a very different R/R to previous gen VFR's. The main red lead goes direct to the Battery positive via Main 30a Fuse A, this would be where the R/R would be grabbing current draw from, so it does look like and internal issue in the R/R. Assume all connections and ground is good for the R/R?.

Good Luck.

Cheers.

Hi Grum, thank you for the info! As far as I can tell the wiring looks really clean still no burnt ends or loose connections that I can see... I'm thinking it's time to just by the new RR and hope it solves the problem!

 

Does anyone have any recommendations on where to buy OEM Honda parts... besides the local dealership of course...

 

Thanks for all the help everyone! :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer
20 minutes ago, Jad2477 said:

Hi Grum, thank you for the info! As far as I can tell the wiring looks really clean still no burnt ends or loose connections that I can see... I'm thinking it's time to just by the new RR and hope it solves the problem!

 

Does anyone have any recommendations on where to buy OEM Honda parts... besides the local dealership of course...

 

Thanks for all the help everyone! :)

Www.partzilla.com have the Rectifier/Regulator at $133.29 P/No. 31600-MJM-D11. Good luck and keep us all updated on how you get on. It appears you're the first to have an 8th gen RR issue.

Regards.

Grum.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Take a moment to put things into perspective.  68 milliamps is miniscule, and would take 14.7 hours to drain 1 amp out of your battery.  3 days later and you've still only drained out 3 amps.  Your battery should be able to easily handle that.  You draw way more than 3 amps every time you start the bike.  Not to disparage the work you have done so far, and the high pitch whine from the R/R, but you might consider a bad battery as a possible contributor to your electrical condition.  Before going further, I would test with a known good battery.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer
1 hour ago, jeffyjeff said:

Take a moment to put things into perspective.  68 milliamps is miniscule, and would take 14.7 hours to drain 1 amp out of your battery.  3 days later and you've still only drained out 3 amps.  Your battery should be able to easily handle that.  You draw way more than 3 amps every time you start the bike.  Not to disparage the work you have done so far, and the high pitch whine from the R/R, but you might consider a bad battery as a possible cause of your electrical condition.  Before going further, I would test with a known good battery.

Hi Jellyjeff.

It is a good point you raise about the health of the battery, but the way I see it this amount of discharge is going to deaden the battery pretty much as Jad2477 describes. The 2014 VFR has a Yausa YTZ12S Battery and it's rated at 11amps/hour. So a discharge rate of 68 milliamps is going to equal 162 hours divided by 24 = 6.74 days to a dead battery. (Roughly).

Also, I don't have the current leakage data for the 8th gen BUT I do for the 6th gen and that is no greater than 2.5 milliamps, so 68 milliamps is relatively high. The high pitched buzzing noise from the R/R is very strange, seems all is not well with the R/R.

Cheers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer
On 7/11/2017 at 6:27 AM, Grum said:

Hi Jellyjeff.

It is a good point you raise about the health of the battery, but the way I see it this amount of discharge is going to deaden the battery pretty much as Jad2477 describes. The 2014 VFR has a Yausa YTZ12S Battery and it's rated at 11amps/hour. So a discharge rate of 68 milliamps is going to equal 162 hours divided by 24 = 6.74 days to a dead battery. (Roughly).

Also, I don't have the current leakage data for the 8th gen BUT I do for the 6th gen and that is no greater than 2.5 milliamps, so 68 milliamps is relatively high. The high pitched buzzing noise from the R/R is very strange, seems all is not well with the R/R.

Cheers.

 

Should there really be anything going through the R/R when the bike is OFF??

 

Doesn't make sense to me.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer
3 hours ago, Rectaltronics said:

 

Should there really be anything going through the R/R when the bike is OFF??

 

Doesn't make sense to me.

 

 

Provided the R/R is healthy you're right nothing should go through it, the R/R is effectively hot wired to the battery irrespective of the ignition switch. The noise from the R/R only goes away when the main two wired plug is removed. What else could it be other than something odd inside the R/R?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Sorry for thinking too much inside the box.  Yeah, the R/R supplies power TO the battery (from the stator).  But if its FUBAR then yeah, sure, it could be sucking power from the battery when the engine is off.  That connection is not broken by a switch or relay.

 

Wow, sucks, I guess you're the first reported 8th gen R/R failure!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

More Trivia!

Service Manual VFR800F States - Specified Current Leakage is 1.0 mA MAX.

Jad2477 certainly has an issue with 68 mA.

Cheers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer
35 minutes ago, fink said:

Correct me if I'm wrong but is a diode / thyristor effectively a one way flow? 

 

Until the semiconductor junction breaks down somehow and it isn't.

 

I mean, honestly, that was the notion that was tripping up my understanding of the problem.  But something is obviously defective, so...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer
1 minute ago, fink said:

Yeah mine too. Guess we will have to wait till OP gets back.  I'm still. Going for a failing battery. :biggrin:

 

It certainly could be failing, now, after all those full discharge cycles.  Bike batteries aren't made for that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy.