Jad2477 Posted July 14, 2017 Author Share Posted July 14, 2017 Hey guys, They just had to add extra stuff to the R/R (extra 4 pin-out connector).. I wonder if that could have something to do with the drain (some type of internal failure). I tested the diodes and they are all good. But I'm 100% positive something is draining 68mA... I'm hoping I didn't toast the battery but she starts right up after sitting for a few days as long as I keep the battery unhooked. I should have a new R/R arriving within the next few days.. I'll keep you all posted! Thanks for all the help! Also, I ride in Phoenix, AZ where it's 1,000,000 degrees and I noticed the R/R has next to zero airflow with the location/extra stuff covering it up. I'm sure that doesn't help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted July 14, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted July 14, 2017 On 15 July 2017 at 7:47 AM, Jad2477 said: Hey guys, They just had to add extra stuff to the R/R (extra 4 pin-out connector).. I wonder if that could have something to do with the drain (some type of internal failure). I tested the diodes and they are all good. But I'm 100% positive something is draining 68mA... I'm hoping I didn't toast the battery but she starts right up after sitting for a few days as long as I keep the battery unhooked. I should have a new R/R arriving within the next few days.. I'll keep you all posted! Thanks for all the help! Also, I ride in Phoenix, AZ where it's 1,000,000 degrees and I noticed the R/R has next to zero airflow with the location/extra stuff covering it up. I'm sure that doesn't help. Jad2477. What do you mean "They just had to add extra stuff to the R/R". You are purchasing a new R/R for the 8th gen aren't you? this R/R is a completely new version and is NOTHING like the 6th gen. ????????? See attached Post Edit - Sorry Jad2477, misinterpreted what you were saying, thought you meant they had to add the 4p connector to your new item!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jad2477 Posted July 14, 2017 Author Share Posted July 14, 2017 25 minutes ago, Grum said: Jad2477. What do you mean "They just had to add extra stuff to the R/R". You are purchasing a new R/R for the 8th gen aren't you? this R/R is a completely new version and is NOTHING like the 6th gen. ????????? See attached Oh.... I mean they just had to add extra stuff into this 8th gen version of the R/R.. seems to me the previous versions that only have the diodes would be easier to diagnose. Whereas this version has that extra CPU in it that could be causing the drain... I've tested the diodes and they seem to be working correctly. I'll know in a few days. I did order the 8th gen R/R. That diagram is helpful though. Thanks! I wonder if the R/R is trying to output some type of diagnostic signal even when the bike is off... maybe that's where that drain is coming from. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rectaltronics Posted July 14, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted July 14, 2017 Yes, I'm sure everyone here would be much happier replacing their old style cooked R/R's every year or two. Maybe we can have Lucas do the charging system and lamps. {sigh}, can't please everyone... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jad2477 Posted July 14, 2017 Author Share Posted July 14, 2017 2 minutes ago, Rectaltronics said: Yes, I'm sure everyone here would be much happier replacing their old style cooked R/R's every year or two. Maybe we can have Lucas do the charging system and lamps. {sigh}, can't please everyone... Well, if mine is cooked... looks like they traded one problem for another. Haha very true. :( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer fink Posted July 15, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted July 15, 2017 Do you have anything else attached to your bike? I.e. Accessories. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jad2477 Posted August 3, 2017 Author Share Posted August 3, 2017 Hey gents, Sorry for the long delay.... UPDATE: So... funny story, I realized after i had already ordered the new R/R from partzilla that the warranty I had paid for DOES cover electrical issues. I thought at the time it was only powertrain... So I took the bike down to the dealer with the hope that they would repair it under warranty. I explained everything to them. Once they got to the bike they told me it was the battery. I'm like yes i know... the battery is most likely shot after several full discharges. I knew it wasn't covered under the warranty and would have to be replaced anyways so i gave them the go ahead to replace it and check for the drain... (batteries are freaking expensive)... so they call me back a few hours later after replacing the battery and say the bike is ready to go, they noticed the electrical noise coming from the R/R but checked the current draw and it was only 0.06... At this point I'm like 0.06 what.... He said the notes from the tech were that it was below the 1.2 mA max draw... So... I left the bike there for two weeks... yesterday, I called them asking if they could check on it so that I could come pick it up... sure enough the bike was completely dead. Now they finally believe me about the drain and their tech is going to have to double check his measurements. So today I am waiting for them to get back to me. I'll update again as soon as they get back to me. But I am sure something is killing the battery. Now, the new battery I paid way too much for has been fully drained.... what's the best way to argue with them that they just shortened it's life? Thanks guys! Jad2477 P.S. No accessories whatsoever... just a Delkevic shorty and bar risers.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted August 3, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted August 3, 2017 Sorry for your troubles - unfortunately there are few good dealers any more. I wouldn't let one tighten a license plate bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted August 4, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted August 4, 2017 8 hours ago, Jad2477 said: Hey gents, Sorry for the long delay.... UPDATE: So... funny story, I realized after i had already ordered the new R/R from partzilla that the warranty I had paid for DOES cover electrical issues. I thought at the time it was only powertrain... So I took the bike down to the dealer with the hope that they would repair it under warranty. I explained everything to them. Once they got to the bike they told me it was the battery. I'm like yes i know... the battery is most likely shot after several full discharges. I knew it wasn't covered under the warranty and would have to be replaced anyways so i gave them the go ahead to replace it and check for the drain... (batteries are freaking expensive)... so they call me back a few hours later after replacing the battery and say the bike is ready to go, they noticed the electrical noise coming from the R/R but checked the current draw and it was only 0.06... At this point I'm like 0.06 what.... He said the notes from the tech were that it was below the 1.2 mA max draw... So... I left the bike there for two weeks... yesterday, I called them asking if they could check on it so that I could come pick it up... sure enough the bike was completely dead. Now they finally believe me about the drain and their tech is going to have to double check his measurements. So today I am waiting for them to get back to me. I'll update again as soon as they get back to me. But I am sure something is killing the battery. Now, the new battery I paid way too much for has been fully drained.... what's the best way to argue with them that they just shortened it's life? Thanks guys! Jad2477 P.S. No accessories whatsoever... just a Delkevic shorty and bar risers.... Surely you have a point to argue that a new R/R should be fitted under warranty NO Charge. They tell you that there was 0.060a = 60ma drain! (60 times the allowable current drain). The max allowable according to the service manual is 1.0ma MAX! That's 0.001a. Then they state that the current draw is 1.2ma!!! Don't think they know what they are talking about. The R/R should not be buzzing and should be replaced on that basis alone. Good Luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rckrzy1 Posted August 8, 2017 Share Posted August 8, 2017 On 8/3/2017 at 4:53 PM, mello dude said: Sorry for your troubles - unfortunately there are few good dealers any more. I wouldn't let one tighten a license plate bolt. The word "tech" now is given to everyone. I am a tech and get PO by the over use of the word tech. Seriously they use a multi meter and it said 0.06 amps and did not know that was 60ma , geeze. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rectaltronics Posted August 8, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted August 8, 2017 25 minutes ago, rckrzy1 said: The word "tech" now is given to everyone. I am a tech and get PO by the over use of the word tech. Seriously they use a multi meter and it said 0.06 amps and did not know that was 60ma , geeze. A friend of mine who taught at an auto tech school said the hardest stuff to get through to the students was pretty much anything about electricity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rckrzy1 Posted August 8, 2017 Share Posted August 8, 2017 4 minutes ago, Rectaltronics said: A friend of mine who taught at an auto tech school said the hardest stuff to get through to the students was pretty much anything about electricity. I've been a Radio "tech" at Rockwell Collins for 28 years, 9 years before that an Avionics Tech in the Marines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C_Williams Posted August 10, 2017 Share Posted August 10, 2017 Jad2477, Do you have an update yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rectaltronics Posted August 10, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted August 10, 2017 On 8/8/2017 at 5:15 PM, rckrzy1 said: I've been a Radio "tech" at Rockwell Collins for 28 years, 9 years before that an Avionics Tech in the Marines. I'm not a tech; I just play one on TV. Sorry, the joke sounds better when you find out I'm a studio engineer at ABC Television. The good news is I got my ham license after procrastinating for thirty-five years or so. Just in time to end up working for - by total coincidence - the fellow who helps run the Broadcast Employees Amateur Radio Association and does most of the support on the club's northeast repeaters. So, when does the discussion start about the absolute measure of a blonde c**t hair? Back to the proverbial brass tacks... A lot of the guys working as mechanics are the bottom of the barrel. I don't mean to be a dick about this but it is what it is. Mechanics salaries are crap while the shop rates are through the roof. It doesn't bring in the best of the best. While some are there because that's what the truly love to do, lots of these guys are the ones who barely know which way to use a crescent wrench (trick question... answer: throw it in the f***ing garbage), and who with just a little luck might put your bike back together with as many fasteners as it came in with. If you're luckier, they will know when they're out of the element with a problem and get their supervisor involved. But not likely. These are the guys who don't know milliamps from menstrual cramps. Many of them either had to go to a trade school or jail and chose trade school. And by the way, BTDT. just sayin'. The problem is they chose a trade they had no idea would be so complicated, especially now. And for some reason that nerds like us can't possibly fathom, even if they totally understand why a torque wrench is so important or how a flame front works, most of them just can't get their heads around the flow of electricity, much less the math. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted September 30, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted September 30, 2017 Hey Jad2477, Are you out there? A few of us are very keen to know how you got on with your R/R replacement and excessive current drain issue. Any Update?????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jad2477 Posted September 30, 2017 Author Share Posted September 30, 2017 Hey guys, sorry it took me so long to get back to you! Replacing the regulator rectifier did the trick! They also warrantied out the battery and got me a new one so I don't have to worry about that. Yeah it's a crapshoot with some.. probably all... of these shops but I'm just happy to have Tasha back... everyone else names their bikes right? Now I'm on the fence, do I want to mess with warranty stuff in the future or just say fuck it and fix everything myself... with any luck I'll hit 36,000 miles and that decision will be solved for me with no issues! Tell you what... i went to school for electrical engineering, wish I could get paid as much actually working on things as I do sitting on my ass bored as hell behind a desk all day... Next order of business, is a Power Commander worth it? I'll probably start a new thread to ask that. Thanks for everyone's help giving me feedback on this issue! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted September 30, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted September 30, 2017 Glad its all sorted. You seem to be the only one to have had an issue with the 8gen R/R. Overall it appears the big H has sorted out the gremlins that haunted us all with failing Stators and R/R's from previous gens. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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