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ragintxn03

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So, I'm getting ready to start the stator and R&R replacement - everyone suggests soldering the wires, but I don't know what kind of iron to get (mainly wattage), and the type of soldering wire for this kind of electrical work.

 

Any suggestions? Also, any good YouTube videos?

 

Thanks in advance

 

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

 

 

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I personally prefer a soldering gun like the dual wattage guns made by Weller, but a soldering iron of sufficient wattage will do.  Speaking wattage, I'd recommend a soldering gun/iron capable of 125 watts minimum.  More is better up to about 200/250 watts. Lower wattage soldering irons are made for delicate jobs like circuit boards, and won't supply the heat needed to solder your stator wires together.  The heat will sink into the wires and the solder joint temperature won't get high enough to melt the solder.  You could persist, but it would take a long time and the wire insulation will begin to soften or melt. 

Regarding solder: use rosin core solder.  Avoid acid core solder, which is used in non-electrical/electronic applications such as soldering copper pipe fittings.

To do a really clean job, I strip the ends of the wires to be connected, then slip a piece of shrink tubing over the wire and slide it away from the solder joint.  I then use a barrel connector and crimp the joint to give it a solid connection.  Then I heat the barrel connector with my solder gun and apply solder until it wicks into the crimp joint.  When it has cooled, slide the shrink tube over the joint and apply heat (from a heat gun or a cigarette lighter) until the shrink tube tightly wraps the solder joint.  Then repeat for the next two wires.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

So - quick update - I did check the connection of the R/R with the stator the other day, and it looked fine. So I'll probably just solder those connections to hopefully avoid an possible issue while I wait to upgrade the R/R. 

 

However, I took my bike into my local shop to have them check the charging system - stator and R/R (I don't have the tools for that yet) - and they told me that the volts were all over the place, but attributed it to loose battery terminals. I had just put the battery back in before I road over to hand it over, and made sure the nuts were quite tight; but, they said that after they tightened the connection to the terminals, they got a consistent 13.6V reading on their voltmeter. 

 

Could loose terminals really be the issue? I'm wondering if they meant the connections from the battery to the bike (not at the connections on the battery - if that makes sense) - does that happen often? 

 

Thoughts & comments appreciated - thanks

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Go buy your own multimeter, available at any autozone, walmart, harbor freight.... - they are around $10 - $25 so you can do you own check.  -- If its at 13.6v...  well, its on the way to trouble... 

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8 hours ago, ragintxn03 said:

 


Where are these supposed to be running at? I thought it was high 13 to mid 14s?

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 

 

Read/learn how to do this testing...

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Quick update - just took her out around the block for 10 mins, and here's what I got:

Idle: 12.18
4k: 12.26
Off: 12.52

This is all at the battery - looks like I'm going through the R/R testing first according to the diagram? I haven't opened anything up, but does anyone whether the 99's had the 4 or more colored​ wires?

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Something is amiss.... but if you follow the drill - battery first! After you verify the battery is good, then do the stator tests. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

So I tested the battery, and it is good once fully charged (AutoZone and did it at home - 12.6 V).

I did the stator test and this is where I'm confused. All leads test at 0.2 ohms and then it fluctuates between 0.1 and 0.3. Mello dude, your linked post says below 0.2 is good, but the PDF link for the full breakdown says 0.5 to 2.0 is good.

So with my 0.1-0.3 ohm test, I'm assuming the stator is out?

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

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12 hours ago, ragintxn03 said:

So I tested the battery, and it is good once fully charged (AutoZone and did it at home - 12.6 V).

I did the stator test and this is where I'm confused. All leads test at 0.2 ohms and then it fluctuates between 0.1 and 0.3. Mello dude, your linked post says below 0.2 is good, but the PDF link for the full breakdown says 0.5 to 2.0 is good.

So with my 0.1-0.3 ohm test, I'm assuming the stator is out?

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 

Hi - No, not enuff testing going on, usually on the resistance test, typical is consistent 1.0 and under on all 3 legs. - Your first step you did is a pass.  -- Please follow the other tests. A/B/C to ground, and then the A/B, B/C, C/A  AC voltage tests. BE CAREFUL! 

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