cadtrev Posted June 15, 2017 Share Posted June 15, 2017 So I just got this bike a month ago,and I started smelling burnt popcorn. What is this connector? Left side near the RR Thanks in advance Trevor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Lorne Posted June 15, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted June 15, 2017 That'll be the wiring connector between the alternator stator and the rectifier/regulator. I'd suggest that you thoroughly check all other the connections in the charging system for stress. The output of the rec/reg goes to the starter relay adjacent to the battery, under the seat just behind the fuel tank. Do lift off the rubber boot on the small gauge wiring and inspect the connectors. Btw, you did nothing wrong. That connector was in trouble long before you bought the bike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadtrev Posted June 15, 2017 Author Share Posted June 15, 2017 Any chance I stressed out the system with Nightbreaker bulbs? I think they are 10 watts more than the stock bulbs...I found a thread started by 30Bones.Looks like lots of good info... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hellindustries Posted June 15, 2017 Share Posted June 15, 2017 16 minutes ago, cadtrev said: Any chance I stressed out the system with Nightbreaker bulbs? I think they are 10 watts more than the stock bulbs...I found a thread started by 30Bones.Looks like lots of good info... Nope. I have nightbreakers. That connector is a known issue 'round these parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Terry Posted June 15, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted June 15, 2017 That connector is a known trouble spot on the 5G. What happens is the plug gets wet and the terminals start to corrode. The corrosion causes the resistance through the connector to increase, which causes heat and starts to melt the body of the connector and/or the insulation on the wires. Preventative maintenance (cleaning the corrosion, adding dielectric grease) can prevent this happening as quickly, but a more permanent fix is to cut the connector out (you need to replace yours anyway!) and solder the wires together, finish off with heat shrink. It doesn't matter which yellow wires are joined across the gap when you do this, they are all the same. As suggested above, it would pay to go through the other connectors on the bike and clean and grease them. Pay particular attention to the battery connections and earthing points. Many of us have fitted a voltmeter (preferably wired directly across the battery terminals and powered through a fused relay) to keep an eye out for the signs of charging system failures. Basically the system consists of the AC alternator which connects via the three yellow wires to the rectifier/regulator (R/R). This rectifies the AC to DC and regulates the voltage going to the battery, and should put out around 14-15V. The melting connector that you have can short the alternator wiring and cause one or more phase to fail. The R/R can fail in two ways, it stops charging (so voltmeter starts reading low) or it stops regulating correctly and over-charges the battery (voltmeter goes high). If you ever smell a cooked battery (sulfury-egg odour) then a faulty R/R has probably caused this. The R/R by design will get pretty hot (hence the fins) as it does it's regulating thing, and eventually the heat will cause the components to fail. There are different types of R/R called MOSFETs that run cooler and last longer, if you need to replace the OEM part. The last significant charging system failure would be an ageing battery, in my experience these often lose their ability to start the bike hot, and early signs are the digital clock resetting when you start the bike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadtrev Posted June 16, 2017 Author Share Posted June 16, 2017 Thanks Terry. Now that I have all the plastic off I will sort thru the connections. I love the bike otherwise,technically its my first bike and I am 48. I had an EX500 in the early 90's never rode it legally or long..This girl has 28k on the Odo. I ll get to know her intimately while changing fluids and making sure shes sound mechanically.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted June 16, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted June 16, 2017 The charging system is a well known Achilles heal of VFRs - there probly 500 threads on the very topic. A search will pop up quite a few things. But .... if you own a VFR, well you gotta have a multi meter - buy on near everywhere. And after that, you may as well do a full charging system test as below....... GL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer jeffyjeff Posted June 24, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted June 24, 2017 +1 with everything Terry said above. Many of us have experienced that failed stator connector. All my professional career I was conditioned to blindly trust the automotive engineers superior intellect, knowledge and experience. Bypassing an electrical connector with a solder joint was unthinkable. Unthinkable. I would never, ever, violate the wiring harness like that. I melted six connectors before I finally gave in, and out of desperation, soldered the stator wires together. The repair lasted 68,000 miles when the stator took a dump and required replacement. The new one was soldered in and lasted until the bike was sold. Jeff J. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadtrev Posted June 24, 2017 Author Share Posted June 24, 2017 So After checking things out,cleaning terminals and soldering the stator wires to the RR. The new Voltmeter is saying 13.9-14.2 volts while on the road. I wonder where I am losing the .5 volt or so? The PO replaced the RR I cant tell what kind it is. The wires come out of the unit (no connectors) ....28K miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer VFROZ Posted June 24, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted June 24, 2017 You might not be losing anything, some stator R&R combinations behave differently. I never get above 14.1v no matter what rev I'm at. A good RR is a better choice, but soldering the wires and replacing the feed to the battery is more important in my opinion. There is a splice which is crimped in the main harness between the RR connector and the main fuse. This plus the main fuse itself is also a major weakness. On mine I had a voltage drop, and when I investigated found the main fuse was melting. You couldn't see it from above, only found it when I removed the whole thing. To be sure just run new wires and heavy duty fuse directly to the battery from RR. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted June 24, 2017 Share Posted June 24, 2017 Where are you taking the reading from? Directly on battery terminals or somewhere else? If somewhere else, that may reflect general loss across the wiring loom. If at battery terminals, it's a little low but enough to maintain battery. The crux is the output at idle. If any lower at idle it may not be enough and battery will suffer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadtrev Posted June 24, 2017 Author Share Posted June 24, 2017 Voltmeter is connected to the battery with a switch to shut it down when not in use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadtrev Posted June 24, 2017 Author Share Posted June 24, 2017 16 hours ago, VFROZ said: You might not be losing anything, some stator R&R combinations behave differently. I never get above 14.1v no matter what rev I'm at. A good RR is a better choice, but soldering the wires and replacing the feed to the battery is more important in my opinion. There is a splice which is crimped in the main harness between the RR connector and the main fuse. This plus the main fuse itself is also a major weakness. On mine I had a voltage drop, and when I investigated found the main fuse was melting. You couldn't see it from above, only found it when I removed the whole thing. To be sure just run new wires and heavy duty fuse directly to the battery from RR. I will look into doing this over the weekend, and thanks for the advice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Lorne Posted June 24, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted June 24, 2017 Check the starter relay connections. The output of the rec/reg goes through it on the way to the battery. Remove the rubber boot and check that all the connectors are in good knick. Here's what a duff one looks like, granted from my '92 VFR750: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer maxredline Posted June 28, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted June 28, 2017 Here is another common problem with G5 electricals discussed http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/66045-urethra-i-found-it/& If you search you will find more electrical suggestions....I have done most or all and have a very reliable viffer now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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