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Bike not Charging.


Stigger

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This really just second guessing myself here.

 

I've done all the checks on the Stator and although they seem within spec I'm getting < 20volts AC across the pairs.

 

So before I go and order a new stator some questions.

 

Pattern, OEM, or rewind?

Any good way to test the RR so I can order that as well if needed.

Am I right that whatever the other tests say if I'm not getting 60 VAC per phase it's stuffed?

 

Cheers 

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OEM seems to be the general preference, unless you happen to know of a reputable company that does rewinds. Pattern stators often don't last, although there have been some exceptions.

 

If you remove the stator, you will be able to see if it has failed or not - it'll be a blackish brown colour in one particular area, apparently due to a lack of oil.

 

That said, I'd check for resistance across the wires, as well as voltage. It should be less than an ohm. It's also worth seeing if it's shorting to ground or not, so go between each wire and ground to check for continuity.

 

I'm not sure what the service manual says about how many volts you'd expect to see at the stator, although you may need to rev the bike to ~2k RPM to get a decent reading; the important thing is to have equal readings across the wires though. How close are you getting to 20v AC? 20V AC RMS (DC equivalent, when smoothed) is 14.14 volts, so this is pretty much you'd expect to see this at the RR output if all is well.

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Continuity to ground (earth) is the simplest check and should (IMO) be first. Betting you have one phase shorted. Check each AC wire for continuity to the frame or engine. Should never be any at all. Mine ('99) is currently not charging either but has no continuity so I am guessing it's the R/R.

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On ‎14‎/‎06‎/‎2017 at 10:56 AM, Stigger said:

Checked impedance between phases and from phases to ground all come out at approx 0.9 ohms.

It's the common crispy critter stator fault, shorted to frame. You will more than likely find your R/R is O.K. as was the case with my two experiences. However if your R/R is stuffed I do have a spare (OEM P/No. 31600-MCW-D61) that I no longer need could arrange a deal with you.

 

Here are some ohm checks you could try on your R/R to help verify if its o.k.

Two Green Wires = 0 ohms to each other.

Two Red/White Wires = 0 ohms to each other.

Meter Set To Diode Range.

Reds to Greens = Approx 1.18  (Red meter lead to Green Wires)

Black Wire appears to have No connection

Yellow 3phase wires have No connection to each other

Yellow 3phase wires measure like a diode to the Green Wires (red meter lead to Green wires)

Yellow 3phase wires measure like a diode to the Red Wires (black meter lead to Red wires)

 

Hope this helps.

Cheers.

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4 hours ago, Stigger said:

Definitely a crispy critter, quick question how are you supposed to get the cable through from the other side of the bike?

IMG_20170616_235727.jpg

Getting the cable through the bike is either a very clever use of a stiff wire I.e. Stove pipe wire as a pull strung or remove the air box and gain better access from above. I was able to do the former as I have years of experience as an AV installer and have fished many a wire through walls and cabinetry.

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Hi Stigger

As Duc2V4 suggested, hopefully you would have tied a strong string line on the connector end before pulling it through the Vee. When pulling the new wire through I added a good lot of PVC tape around it to help reduce it snagging as well as using a long screwdriver or similar to help guide the cable back through the Vee.

 

You will need to spend a bit of time and care in removing the old gasket. I used a product called Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket No 3 Sealant ($7.95 from Supercheap Auto) a light coating on both sides of the new gasket, it's an excellent non hardening gasket sealant.

 

Also when fitting your new assembly back onto the bike make sure the locating guide pins AND the new gasket are positioned on the bike side NOT the stator cover side. Be careful, line the stator up as best as possible, the strong magnetic force will just about rip the stator out of your hand as you go to fit it.

Good Luck.

Cheers.

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Got it out, now there was a ship in a bottle job, I'm dreading putting it back.

 

Off to the rewind shop on Monday, thought about OEM but this chap is recommended and $100 Cheaper and he says better than OEM.

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I used a 2 foot long zip tie I got at Harbor Freight (10 to a bundle - just a couple of bucks).  You may find them at a similar store in Australia.  Just flexible enough to get through the V, but plenty strong to pull the wire through.  For mounting the cover, I got 2 long bolts at the hardware store and cut the heads off.  Once threaded in to the block it allows for precise alignment of the cover and prevents the magnets from pulling it off center.  Once you get this project buttoned up you'll be a happy camper.

 

Cheers

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  • 2 weeks later...
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I had my gasket tweak on me when I reinstalled the stator cover on my 01. After I started the bike it started leaking at the stator cover, so I drained the oil and removed the cover only to find the gasket somehow got tweaked and was sitting halfway inside the stator cover! It was too damaged to reuse and since I wanted to get it wrapped back up and didn't want to wait or a new gasket, I just used Honda bond. I found out previously that the oil pan does not use a gasket and that Honda mechanics use Honda bond. The shop manual recommends Three Bond 1207B or equivalent, so I used the Honda bond I had for the oil pan for the stator cover and all is good!

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Nice job Stigger, I like the Voltmeter. Tell me, that's not another Transponder Key on your key ring is it?. If it is, it may just confuse the HISS system and not allow your bike to start, others have experienced this.

Cheers.

Grum.

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28 minutes ago, Stigger said:

It's a garage door opener. I tried to ride in this morning but it was just too cold...

Must get some winter gear.

That's not what I'm concerned about, not the garage remote, its the other key that looks like it may be a transponder key like your Honda ignition key.

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13 minutes ago, Stigger said:

Nah it's just a top box key and the rod thing for the rack

Sent from my MHA-L09 using Tapatalk
 

ok that's good then. Hope all the electrics are sorted, enjoy the ride.

Cheers.

Grum.

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