Superballs Posted May 6, 2017 Share Posted May 6, 2017 This sound is still a bit semi-random, I'm trying to establish a pattern. At first I thought maybe it was just debris being thrown up by the front tire into the fender (haven't discounted this yet) It seems to be more prevalent before the bike has fully warmed up and I think it tends to be either when the clutch is disengaged or the bike is rollng slowly. I'm still trying to make this a recreatable issue. I don't think it's because I'm riding through radiation. Has anyone ever heard something like this? Maybe point me in the right direction? It sounds like it's coming from the front end, which (directionally) could be anywhere from the instrument panel down the forks to the fender. Again thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MarkDetroit Posted May 6, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted May 6, 2017 It is fun to get a new bike and work to diagnose issues. You know the noise could be related to that chain that you commented on. Have you cleaned and lubed the chain to see if that affects the rolling noise? If the noise is a rattle you could grab a rubber mallet and gently tap on parts of the bike to see if you find anything. And you should also consider & evaluate the wheel bearings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superballs Posted May 6, 2017 Author Share Posted May 6, 2017 That's the thing, it seems to happen sometimes when the bike isn't moving, or moving slowly. Not moving tells me it's not the chain, or wheel bearings (which I will be checking anyway). I'll tap away with a mallet when I can too. I'm going to be pulling off a lot of the cowls and giving it the ol' toothbrush treatment tomorrow (or today if it stays sunny and people stop calling and servers stop going offline). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vegaquark Posted May 6, 2017 Share Posted May 6, 2017 High tension sparks? Check your spark plug plugs and cables Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superballs Posted May 6, 2017 Author Share Posted May 6, 2017 3 minutes ago, vegaquark said: High tension sparks? Check your spark plug plugs and cables Great food for thought. I will check those too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer RolandHTG Posted May 6, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted May 6, 2017 Flapper Valve? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vegaquark Posted May 7, 2017 Share Posted May 7, 2017 Or even valve clearance... Who knows... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreginDenver Posted May 7, 2017 Share Posted May 7, 2017 A cheap "Mechanic's Stethoscope" can really help with this sort of thing (here in the U.S. I bought one at Harbor Freight for a few dollars). Just like a doctor you put the earpieces in your ears and then touch the metal probe end to various parts/areas of the engine to listen. This is a way to zero-in on which engine component is making the noise. The Stethoscope allows you to be very specific about what part of the engine you're listening to. At idle engine speed you can even tell the difference between a noise that is occurring at crankshaft speed (matches the tachometer) and a noise that is occurring at camshaft speed (which is 1/2 the tachometer speed). Could be the sound of a corroded water pump impeller cavitating or a water pump bearing going bad, so you touch the probe to that area and listen. Could be a bearing in the clutch basket assembly ("throwout" bearing?), so you listen there. Could be something in one of the two cylinder heads, something valve-train related, so you listen there. and so on... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superballs Posted May 7, 2017 Author Share Posted May 7, 2017 Awesome, I'll check all of that, looks like I got some work on my hands. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer KevCarver Posted May 7, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted May 7, 2017 Still might be the flapper. It's a common question from new VFR owners. Raise the tank, pull the vacuum line off the flapper and plug it with a bolt or golf tee, and test ride. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superballs Posted May 7, 2017 Author Share Posted May 7, 2017 So...um...is there a prize for idiot of the day? I had the bike up on it's center stand and was running it at various RPMs. So, as it turns out, I have the old Givi top/side luggage rack (visible in the pics I have up). On the top rack there is the two things the luggage slides on to, and a little "tongue" near the back that you press it on to to lock it in place. As it turns out, even though the bolts were tightened as far as they go, it was loose and rattling. As to why it sounded like it was coming from my steering stem/instrument panel/front wheel, I have no idea, but it's possible I was just hearing it resonate through the frame. Took it off and it solved two mystery noises that had me worried. Bike sounds effing A right now. Also, due to the yo yo temperatures, my tires had gotten frighteningly low, inflated them and test rode and the bike is even sweeter than that first ride when I initially got it. Thanks for all the ideas and super thankful that a lot of what could have been wrong is likely not. Still though, will be replacing the chain and sprockets, and getting the valve clearance checked as soon as I can, will be checking/changing the plugs and doing a full fluid flush/swap. I work IT and happen to have a roll of this double sided Velcro strip I'm going to use as a backing for the tongue for now, until I get some thick rubber to cut to shape. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer LangoPTC Posted May 7, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted May 7, 2017 34 minutes ago, Superballs said: So...um...is there a prize for idiot of the day? Well if you are today's winner I took the prize yesterday. Frame now has some scratches on it compliments of the fuel tank (and my stupidity). #$%&!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superballs Posted May 7, 2017 Author Share Posted May 7, 2017 31 minutes ago, LangoPTC said: Well if you are today's winner I took the prize yesterday. Frame now has some scratches on it compliments of the fuel tank (and my stupidity). #$%&!!! Well, I'm in good company then. When I'm done my ride with the wife tonight we will need to pull up a stool and have a beer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer LangoPTC Posted May 8, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted May 8, 2017 Cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superballs Posted June 2, 2017 Author Share Posted June 2, 2017 As it turns out, this sound did come back the very next day. As I was getting a new chain and sprockets installed, I didn't have time to really look into it. I do have a more definite pattern though, and it seems to be when the clutch is engaging or engaged and the engine running at 3-4K RPM. I found a thread on VFRWorld where someone posted video of the same sound, but under different circumstances. It does appear that the clutch switch was making only an intermittent connection and something to do with it actuating the flapper valve. The strange thing is, I can't start the bike when it's in gear, I simply can't, the clutch switch does not engage, and I have to be in neutral. I read that the clutch lever needs to be adjusted inward a bit to make contact and this is possible, or some contact cleaner (bike was dusty as all hell when I bought it) might be in order as well). I seem to have a lot of threads open, and, as much as I like to hold this bike (still deservedly) on a pedestal, I came into this fully knowing that I was working with a near 20 year old machine that would need some money time and effort thrown at it. I've discovered that overall though, this bike is way easier to work on than my Magna was, which is a relief (and thank god for no carbs). Riding around after ensuring my coolant was full and bled seems to (seems is the operative word, as sometimes the noise just doesn't happen) have had an effect so maybe it was another switch somewhere that had an intermittent connection. I will try to keep this one updated as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted June 3, 2017 Share Posted June 3, 2017 Sounds like an electrical short or rattling relay to me. Check wiring loom and relays. They will happen while stopped or in motion. Generally are hard to hear at speed due to wind noise. Come and go randomly. Crackly like a Geiger counter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer KevCarver Posted June 4, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted June 4, 2017 Do you have aftermarket levers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superballs Posted June 4, 2017 Author Share Posted June 4, 2017 Do you have aftermarket levers? I'm 99% certain they are stock. As far as I know the only "mods" the PO made to the bike were bar risers, a tank cover and givi luggage rack. Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted June 5, 2017 Share Posted June 5, 2017 You've been having charging issues. At sub optimal voltages relays will chatter. I'm convinced it's electrical. You bought this bike from a dealers or shop with a guarantee right? They really should be dealing with all these issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superballs Posted June 5, 2017 Author Share Posted June 5, 2017 You've been having charging issues. At sub optimal voltages relays will chatter. I'm convinced it's electrical. You bought this bike from a dealers or shop with a guarantee right? They really should be dealing with all these issues. Used private sale. High mileage. I understood when buying the bike there would be some issues and maintenance items and annoyances I would have to take care of. Since its new to me I'm still very very much in the learning phases. I essentially paid 1500$ (CAD) for the bike so even if I have to throw a couple thousand into it I'm good with that. Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer KevCarver Posted June 5, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted June 5, 2017 Just to rule it out; unplug the flapper and stick a bolt or golf tee into the vacuum line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superballs Posted June 5, 2017 Author Share Posted June 5, 2017 1 hour ago, KevCarver said: Just to rule it out; unplug the flapper and stick a bolt or golf tee into the vacuum line. I'll make sure I do this as soon as I get the bike back from the shop. Stator being replaced. Leaving for the week so won't have it back until Monday. What exactly does the flapper do anyway? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Terry Posted June 5, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted June 5, 2017 Being unable to start in gear does sound like a clutch switch fault, and that might probably coincide with the random buzzing sound. My 99 has just started making the noise again usually when I'm stopped at lights, waiting to launch. In my case I know for sure that it is the clutch switch making intermittent contact and causing the solenoid for the flapper valve to buzz. A new clutch switch is very cheap and easy to install. You can verify the operation of the clutch switch and flapper with the bike running, in neutral on the centrestand. Find the thin fabric coated wire below/behind the clutch cover on the motor, and pull this off the terminal post on the casing, this is the neutral switch wire. Your bike's brain now thinks its is gear even when it is in neutral, and you should have to pull the clutch in to start. If you lift and prop the fuel tank, at 5500 rpm the flapper valve should be open, below it should be closed. Put the neutral switch wire back in place when you are done. The clutch switch should click when you pull the clutch in. If not, you can spray electrical cleaner into the switch and work it, which may clean the contacts. You can bypass the switch by connecting the two female spade connectors on the wiring loom together, but that also means you will be able to start the bike in gear WITHOUT the clutch in, which may cause you to fall over. You have been warned. Some aftermarket levers don't engage the clutch switch properly, hence the post above about whether your levers are stock. Unplugging the flapper actuator hose (as suggested by Kev) probably won't help to diagnose the noise if it comes from the solenoid itself as this will carry on being intermittent. You can unplug the solenoid itself and that would disable both systems; from memory it is below the airbox so I would not rush into that. The flapper opens a second port into the airbox; Honda claim it is for performance reasons, I'd say more likely for noise control in compliance testing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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