Jump to content

Sprocket change


Recommended Posts

I just did the 520 conversion from sprocket center. -1/+0 

 

There's a small torque difference, it doesn't feel life changing but my butt dyno says it's there. I think I notice the loss of rotating mass, but its not a lot so it could be in my head. At 115 kph I went from 5000 RPM to about 5250 RPM and the gear indicator is working as normal right now.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Hi all, I received the 520 conversion kit (-1/+0) from sprocket centre this morning and found that the front sprocket is one side of the edge thicker than the other one (see photo below). Could anyone tell me which side should be facing out on the bike? Thanks in advance.

WeChat Image_20171208090729.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can't remember, I think the "15T" faced out, but I set them both on a flat surface with the inside face of the stock sprocket facing down and checked which way it needed to face for the teeth to align.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

The measurements from back of sprocket (engine side)  to mounting surface shoul be the same as the stock one. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Superlite makes a set that looks really nice. I used stock gearing.  Was tempted to go lower but doing so might make it run in 4 valve mode on the highway, depending on how fast you're going.  With stock gearing 80 mph is just below the VTEC transition and I wanted to stay that way.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer
16 hours ago, SlfAwre said:

With stock gearing 80 mph is just below the VTEC transition and I wanted to stay that way.

 

Thats odd, mine does 95 in top before the VTEC cuts in

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Odd.  Gearing is 16/43 which is stock.  I might be able to get to 85 or so but that feels like right close to the transition. For motorway riding 85 is plenty enough to get a ticket around here, and I figured I rather have it running clearly on one side of the transition or the other as opposed to right on the crossover point. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Stock gearing here is 15/42, there's the difference 

 

Everytime I used the car pool lanes in CA it seemed to be compulsory to do at least 10 mph faster than the posted limit

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Stock gearing is 15/42 where? I still don't think that's low enough for 80 to be just below VTEC. I changed to 15/45 and VTEC comes in at ~83-84. It'll come in as late as 7k/~87 if I'm just slowly easing up, I guess it also considers throttle position.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

You're correct 16/43, wrong bike, but the VFR does 95 in top at just below VTEC cut in

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Thumbs said:

Everytime I used the car pool lanes in CA it seemed to be compulsory to do at least 10 mph faster than the posted limit

 

Most times it is because our speed limits are artificially low.  Also, and this is important to note, it depends on how vigilant and enthusiastic the highway patrol is.  

 

For example, the speed limits in most Interstates out in the deserts of California will say 70 mph.  But you will get passed by everything except motorhomes at that speed!  Most traffic move at 80 out there, and a great many go around 85.  OTOH, on the highway leading from the greater Los Angeles basin to the Bay Area (San Francisco), the California Highway Patrol are very aggressive.  So the posted speed limit is between 65-70 mph and most traffic will move around 75-78 mph.  I personally wouldn't attempt to cruise through that section of highway at greater than 80 mph for long periods without a proper Radar Detector.  Every time I go through there I see so many vehicles getting speeding citations.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 12/12/2017 at 5:48 AM, jhenley17 said:

Stock gearing is 15/42 where? I still don't think that's low enough for 80 to be just below VTEC. I changed to 15/45 and VTEC comes in at ~83-84. It'll come in as late as 7k/~87 if I'm just slowly easing up, I guess it also considers throttle position.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I thought the VTEC switch is a mechanical thing involving oil pressure.  I'm not sure there's any electronics like throttle position involved.  On my bike it seems like it usually happens between 6500-7000 rpm, so I geared it to run about 6k at 80ish MPH. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer
On 12/12/2017 at 8:14 PM, Rogue_Biker said:

  I personally wouldn't attempt to cruise through that section of highway at greater than 80 mph for long periods without a proper Radar Detector.  Every time I go through there I see so many vehicles getting speeding citations.

 

 

 

Whatever happened to the MKI?   Surely with that volume of traffic it would be far easier?

 

Agree about the speed anything over 80 and your asking for it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, SlfAwre said:

I thought the VTEC switch is a mechanical thing involving oil pressure.  I'm not sure there's any electronics like throttle position involved.  On my bike it seems like it usually happens between 6500-7000 rpm, so I geared it to run about 6k at 80ish MPH. 

 

I believe VTEC is activated via Oil Pressure and coolant temperature.  Meaning when above a certain temperature, the ECM will allow the VTEC spool Valve to open, or something to that effect.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 12/13/2017 at 9:43 PM, SlfAwre said:

I thought the VTEC switch is a mechanical thing involving oil pressure.  I'm not sure there's any electronics like throttle position involved.  On my bike it seems like it usually happens between 6500-7000 rpm, so I geared it to run about 6k at 80ish MPH. 

 

 

The actuation of the pin engaging the VTEC valves is mechanical and actuated by pressurized oil.   However the delivery of pressurized oil to the pin is controlled by the VTEC solenoid valve, which is controlled by the ECM.   There is logic involved, including coolant temp, gear selection, and RPM.

 

VTEC solenoid valve will not fire below a certain engine temp, nor will it engage in neutral, once preceding conditions are met the actuation is controlled by RPM (ignition pulse generator   W/Y, Y).  It has been noted that this critical RPM has varied by model year.   I've never experienced, nor read, that the Throttle Position is involved in this logic.

 

image.png.1dc0bd5d653cf7638ffee5535ce0643a.png

 

image.png.084b7d51ea4d19a0757ea0a7f0231de1.png

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer
On 12/15/2017 at 1:11 PM, Lee 2002 said:

VTEC...nor will it engage in neutral...

 

Interesting - I've sort of noticed that (but never really thought about it) from having done a few videos of my exhaust where I'm always in neutral - there's no noticeable change when going over the usual RPM threshold.  But of course in the one exhaust video I did where I was in gear the VTEC transition was dramatic - see my old vid below.  Question:  What if I'm in 1st gear (or any gear) but I pull the clutch in and then rev it - will the VTEC kick in?

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer
On 12/17/2017 at 9:29 AM, GatorGreg said:

 

Interesting - I've sort of noticed that (but never really thought about it) from having done a few videos of my exhaust where I'm always in neutral - there's no noticeable change when going over the usual RPM threshold.  But of course in the one exhaust video I did where I was in gear the VTEC transition was dramatic - see my old vid below.  Question:  What if I'm in 1st gear (or any gear) but I pull the clutch in and then rev it - will the VTEC kick in?

 

 

 

Hey Gator that's a Great video, music to my ears, no point revving it with the clutch pulled in or stationary, under load is the best. I hope that was only the camera that crashed at the end - did it survive ? 

Cheers Grum.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Hi guys, I changed oem sprockets and chain to the 520 conversion kit (-1/+0) and have tested for 1000 km so far, no issues at all. The quickshifter works better. The new chain doesn't chew the guard. I am very happy.

WeChat Image_20180109083229.jpg

WeChat Image_20180109083243.jpg

WeChat Image_20180109083254.jpg

WeChat Image_20180109083313.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Was sent here from another posting - can anyone confirm that a one tooth down in front will still show gearing on the indicator?  I want just a little more torque, but do not want to sacrifice my gearing indicator - someone please confirm.... :)

 

with factory chain - wasn't thinking about converting, just wanted to buy a new sprocket and everything work!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, Killerkingdon said:

Was sent here from another posting - can anyone confirm that a one tooth down in front will still show gearing on the indicator?  I want just a little more torque, but do not want to sacrifice my gearing indicator - someone please confirm.... :)

 

with factory chain - wasn't thinking about converting, just wanted to buy a new sprocket and everything work!

Yes, the gearing indicator works normal. It gives you a bit more torque too and is well balanced.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy.