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Help needed - VFR dying after 75 minutes on interstate


stevebz

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I purchased a 2000 VFR with 26,000 miles on it about a year ago. Had a complete check-over/tuning service done and it's been great! But recently I've attempted a couple longer rides and headed out on the interstate to cover some miles quickly. After about 75 minutes I noticed the speedometer needle would drop to 0 when I put my turn signal on. A few minutes later, the tach needle would do the same and the turn signal indicator light was very weak. As soon as I closed the throttle exiting off the interstate, the bike died and wouldn't crank over. Got it jump started and it ran fine until I stopped again, then wouldn't crank over to restart. I replaced the battery and had the alternator checked to be sure it was charging (it was). Tried another highway trip yesterday and the exact same thing happened at about 75-80 minutes in! Any ideas what's going on? Maybe something to do with extended operation at a continuous 70+ mph? I have done multiple 2-3+ hour rides on back roads and state highways with no problems. Thanks for any help!

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Look for something like this...I'm sure it's obvious what I'm referring to!IMG_3331_zpsvizhq18a.jpg

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Another source of trouble might be the starter relay, adjacent to the battery. Output of the rectifier/regulator goes through it on the way to the battery. Here's a pic of the failed unit from my '92 VFR750:

 

gallery_6146_6562_49087.jpg

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Those are the exact symptoms I experienced when my first fifth gen, with approx. 80,000 miles on it, died 170 miles from home in Duluth, MN.

When I got it home my excellent Honda dealer diagnosed a fried stator ( 31120-MBG-D01 ) and R/R. Mechanic said it was the stator that ruined the R/R.

 

They replaced both with OEM parts. Not long after I looked into and bought a VFRness and a Rick's R/R from fellow VFRD member (wiremybike.com) and installed both myself, with lots of help from Joshua it's creator. I keep the replacement oem R/R as a spare.

 

My memory is shot but I believe Honda may have improved their R/R replacements but the electrical system on these VFRs are not very good from the getgo. Hence the VFRness, meant to deal with the inadequate charging system. Lots of us VFRDers have done this.

 

You can check it all out in the electrical threads here.

 

Good luck. I hope yours does not go out when you are far from home. 

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Thanks for all the info, guys! I will definitely check the stator and R/R, and will look into the VFRness, etc. I do remember reading this was a common issue with these machines when I was researching bikes. Then I promptly forgot about it in the excitement of owning and riding this awesome (for me) motorcycle!

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22 minutes ago, stevebz said:

Thanks for all the info, guys! I will definitely check the stator and R/R, and will look into the VFRness, etc. I do remember reading this was a common issue with these machines when I was researching bikes. Then I promptly forgot about it in the excitement of owning and riding this awesome (for me) motorcycle!

Yep, mine fortunately didn't strand me anywhere but I was being diligent in trying to maintain those connectors by using "Oxguard" on them and inspecting them any time I serviced the bike. Somehow this slipped in between services but it wasn't until I was inspecting something else that I found this.

 

Parts are on order and hopefully I won't have to worry about it anymore, well other than the Stator eventually cooking itself being only half bathed in oil. BTW, grabbing a Shindengen FH020AA RR (www.roadstercycle.com) and an OEM stator (www.partzilla.com).

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I went through 2 Lascar EMV 1200's in 15 years. They are not waterproof but I solved that with celophane tape.

 

I also recommend the VFRness. I used a Yamaha R1 R/R from Ebay which I believe is the Shinidig (sp?) but it had to be spliced in due to different connectors. It worked well and lasted until I sold the bike .

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Another satisfied VFRness owner here.  That, along with an onboard voltmeter and due diligence with connectors, is cheap insurance.

Good luck!

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On ‎5‎/‎1‎/‎2017 at 8:15 AM, stevebz said:

I noticed the speedometer needle would drop to 0 when I put my turn signal on. A few minutes later, the tach needle would do the same and the turn signal indicator light was very weak.

I seem to be a little confused...this all started when you put your turn signal on. The speedo fails and then the tach plus the signal indicator light was weak. Sounds kind of like a short. The turn signal is wired through the handle bars along with things like the kill switch and ignition switch. All of these things run in a wiring harness that is subjected to movement by turning the handle bars back and forth. This could create a short and thus stop your engine. It also sounds like an intermittent problem not a component failure...just sayin'.

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Once the Vif has reared the electrical gremlins you should do the typical mods to the system to make it the reliable Honda you know it should be.

Stator inspection and replacement if needed

upgrade rr to moffset

Vfrness install

Fuse the wiring harness ground block

2 grounds from EGU to frame

 

Inspect electrical plug connections for corrosion and fit

 

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For the record, here's what my connectors looked like...

 

IMG_3404_zpsygdehi2n.jpg

 

IMG_3403_zpsdgifqe17.jpg

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Be glad this isn't what it looks like:

 

RC45ElectricalWireFire.thumb.jpg.b1f212aa9de09fe9a819f06832b5fa66.jpg

 

That's Larry L's friend's RC45, post electrical connector melt-down... Expensive.

 

Ciao,

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On 5/2/2017 at 0:04 AM, hellindustries said:


True. I had one, but it crapped-out. Cheap ebay junk. I keep meaning to buy a better one.

 

Signal Dynamics LED voltmeter....   had it on redsut for over a decade, is now doing its stuff on the RC...

 

 

ea0dca72.jpg

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