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What kind of Oil/Filter do y'all use?

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On 22/04/2017 at 6:37 PM, thtanner said:

 

The nut is not failing because people are using it to tighten the filter. That's a bunch of b.s. K&N keeps spewing. It's a flawed design, even if you never touch the nut, it can still fail.

 

HiFlo makes K&Ns filters. I won't support a company that knowingly produces a bad product, even if they're the subcontractor.

How come it just seems to be they fail mainly in the US.  Apart from one failure in Ireland I cannot remember reading about failures elsewhere.   I have also heard of folk using the nut to put it on. 

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4 hours ago, fink said:

How come it just seems to be they fail mainly in the US.  Apart from one failure in Ireland I cannot remember reading about failures elsewhere.   I have also heard of folk using the nut to put it on. 

 

There was a UK failure last week, or the week before last, on a Facebook group. He said he never touched the nut.

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Same here. Put on by hand. Fortunately failed in the driveway while warming up the bike. Oil pouring out past the seal. Huge mess. Filter still tight. Never again. Stocked up on Purolator PL14610 via Amazon.

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K&N failed on me today at the track! Absolutely never did I ever tighten the damn thin with a wrench either (even though the illustration on the packaging shows just that). Was my first time taking the RC79 to the track, and the first time ever using Bridgestone T30 evos, and near the end of the session I was getting slip from the rear so just put it down to using sport-touring tires on the track. Nope, just oil. $%^$% a K&N filter! 

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s-l1600.jpg

 

15410-MFJ-D01 FILTER, OIL

Price:
$9.45
List Price $12.73
You Save $3.28 (26%)
Quantity:
-+
Price is for one part. We sell all parts individually.
ship-tick.png  Ships within 24 hours 
In Stock

Overview

15410-MFJ-D01 FILTER, OIL

Description

Purchase this Honda 15410-MFJ-D01 FILTER, OIL --- FILTER, OIL (TOYO ROKI) (Honda Code 8597650)
This Honda 15410-MFJ-D01 FILTER, OIL is used on these models and components:
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Or fleabay 4 for $40 free shipping !

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22 hours ago, thtanner said:

 

There was a UK failure last week, or the week before last, on a Facebook group. He said he never touched the nut.

Pretty sure it was Ireland not UK 

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I'm trying to find a reliable source that to get OEM filters besides my dealer, but in Canada we get wrecked for pricing.  I won't support my local dealer, so it's off to the internet!

 

On the plus side, Maxima ProPlus oil is cheap as hell...as far as full synthetic motorcycle oils go, anyway...$46/gal CAD.

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Amsoil  synthetic fiber filter and their oil

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Rotella T6 5 - 40  and purolator/bosch filters.  I change just as soon as the engine gets a lil noisier than usual.  usually 2500-3500 miles or so.  Tranny is super smooth with it though.
I only caught a few of the walmart supertech brand filters before they took those off the shelves,  those were top secret top notch pieces.

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Wix - 51365

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On 23/04/2017 at 7:34 PM, fink said:

How come it just seems to be they fail mainly in the US.  Apart from one failure in Ireland I cannot remember reading about failures elsewhere.   I have also heard of folk using the nut to put it on. 

Just for clarification, HiFlo USED to make K&N. Production was moved to the Far East (Philippines, if memory serves?) and quality dropped dramatically. 

 

When K&N failed to renew their contract with HiFlo, HiFlo released their own range of filtres with a nut on top. They also installed synthetic media raising the game significantly. These are their “rc” filters. So a 303 filter would be a 303rc. 

 

HiFlo have always been the filtre of choice in garages across Europe. They are a quality brand that just got better. I’ve used them in all my bikes for decades without complaint, even on the occasional foray on track. 

 

Stray

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Have used hi flo on my other bikes with no problems. 

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On 2 December 2017 at 4:41 PM, fink said:

Have used hi flo on my other bikes with no problems. 

 

+1

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On 5/17/2017 at 8:04 PM, Lee 2002 said:

Wix - 51365

Spec's

Product Specifications

Part Number: 51365
UPC Number: 765809513655
Style: Spin-On Lube Filter
Service: Lube/Transmission
Type: Full Flow
Media: Enhanced Cellulose
Height: 2.58(66)*
Outer Diameter Top: 2.69(68)*
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed:
Thread Size: 20X1.5 MM
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: 8-11
Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes
Beta Ratio: 2/20=6/20
Burst Pressure-PSI: 300
Max Flow Rate: 9-11 GPM
Nominal Micron Rating: 21
 
(  )* denotes metric
 

Gasket Diameters

Number O.D. I.D. Thk.
Attached 2.475 (63)* 2.173 (55)* 0.233 (6)*

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I find this website very useful, our bikes use a type [5] filter

 

https://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterXRef.html

 

I personally run a Bosch 3300 with Amsoil 10w30 in my bike.

On my old bike I used to run a Bosch 3323 but I am not sure I could get it to fit on the VFR. Same filter as the 3300 just a little bit bigger.

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I am glad someone took the time to develop that and maintain it. I learned a lot from it. That, and how ridiculously expensive MC filters are for less filtering!

 

Ultimately, why not throw on a nice car one with similar specs!

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Sidenote, has anyone experienced idle changes after an oil change? After my recent oil change my idle jumped to 2000 cold and 2100 when warm. It looks like getting to the idle adjustment requires removal of the lower fairing which is a bit annoying...

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You don't have to remove fairing to adjust idle.

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9 hours ago, 2015vfr said:

Sidenote, has anyone experienced idle changes after an oil change? After my recent oil change my idle jumped to 2000 cold and 2100 when warm. It looks like getting to the idle adjustment requires removal of the lower fairing which is a bit annoying...

 

Never had any Idle increase after an oil change!! Are you sure about what you're saying Idle speed should definetly drop once engine is warmed not increase!!!

As per FastM, no need to remove fairings. Idle adjustment knob is just slightly upwards and forward of the clutch slave cylinder, on left side of bike. With a fully warmed engine set Idle RPM to 1200rpm.

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19 hours ago, Grum said:

 

Never had any Idle increase after an oil change!! Are you sure about what you're saying Idle speed should definetly drop once engine is warmed not increase!!!

As per FastM, no need to remove fairings. Idle adjustment knob is just slightly upwards and forward of the clutch slave cylinder, on left side of bike. With a fully warmed engine set Idle RPM to 1200rpm.

 

Yea first for me too. I was going off the service manual which calls for panel removal.

Screenshot_2017-12-06-13-58-38.png

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51 minutes ago, 2015vfr said:

Yea first for me too. I was going off the service manual which calls for panel removal.

 

If your fingers were the size of kielbasa, maybe panel removal is necessary.

 

Maybe that's how the Japanese picture all non-Asians.

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Just did it, super easy to reach but kind of jard to turn, I dont know why they would call for panel removal

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