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Just picked up a 93 vfr750f


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Clutch m/cs are very annoying to bleed when you're starting from dry.  Brake m/cs are a lot easier.  Are you sure you've not given up too early?

 

Ciao,

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Clutch m/cs are very annoying to bleed when you're starting from dry.  Brake m/cs are a lot easier.  Are you sure you've not given up too early?
 
Ciao,


I don't think so but I've never done a hydraulic clutch before. Now when I open the bleeder and squeeze the clutch lever I get clean fluid coming out, and no air. With the bleeder closed I can feel the piston move just a little but pressure never builds enough to move it any more. Sucks that both my mc and the one from eBay didn't work. I ordered the rebuild kit and will try to fix mine. If that doesn't work I guess I'll replace the line too, waiting for parts is the worst. I should have started with rebuilding my mc instead or trying to replace it. Oh well.

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  • 2 weeks later...

My clutch is working! After rebuilding my original clutch mc it pumped up and is finally working! So after a lot of trouble and rebuilding both the mc and slave I finally have a clutch again. This means once it's running I can actually ride it! As a side note the vacuum pump didn't really work too well. I don't think I was getting a good enough seal on the bleeder. But I used it for a bit and finally got some pressure to start building. Then I closed the bleeder and worked the clutch lever back and forth. It continued to build pressure and I could feel where the clutch was getting depressed. Eventually I could feel the clutch was actuating through the lever's whole range of motion. To test it I put the bike in gear and was able to roll it around in gear with the clutch. Happy day! I do have an extra clutch and break mc I need to sell now.

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Carbs and airbox back on. Man that was a pain to do. Getting those carbs seated in the boots is pretty horrible.

Also put in new spark plugs. Those front ones aren't much fun either. Front right plug looked new so I'm wondering if that coil is bad.

Tried to turn it over with the starter and no joy. No power coming out of the solenoid. The old owner gave me an extra one, not sure if that one works either, we shall see.

Just going to change the oil and fix put in a working solenoid before trying to start it.

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I was hoping to get it started today but it didn't happen. I'm not getting fuel through the fuel pump. I'm suspicious of this fuel cut relay. I have power on 2 wires with the key and ignition on, at the relay but no power on the third. I'm not 100% sure what to test but I would think the third wire should be 12+ to the fuel pump. Can anyone confirm? A new oem relay is $48. 6c62e7ff6dd1d3491d14832233edaaab.jpg

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Ran a wire from the battery to the fuel pump and it works but it seems too loud to me. Is it supposed to click, click, click like that. I had the fuel end running to a bucket so maybe it was just trying to build pressure and couldn't. It should turn off once the floats close and there is some back pressure right?

I tried testing by jumping from the blue wire at the fuel cut relay to the red wire but that didn't work even though there is 12volts with the ignition and run switch on. But when connected that drops to like 2 volts. What am I missing?

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What do the points look like?

 

something like this?

open.jpg

IMAG2442.jpg

 

 

a new set looks like

apoint.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

and should work like this

 

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n206/Dutchy_748/VIDEO0064_zpscda3d494.mp4

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Thanks@Dutchy I jumped the wrong wire. Jumping blue to blue/black worked. I do have continued between the spark unit and red wire so the fuel cut relay is bad. Question can I just wire a standard relay in or do I really need they OEM relay?

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PM me your adress and I will send you redslut's; one of the very few parts left of her.

:-)

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Can't believe it. I just heard it start and run for a few seconds after swapping the rectifier. Only had a small amount of fuel in the bowls so I think it will run after I button up the last bits.

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It's alive!!!! Little bit of white smoke and I think I saw a drop of oil. Probably still needs some work but after the new carb seals there's no more gas leak. Might even get through inspection.

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Went for a short spin around the block. It's running great! Pulls hard shifts smooth. Here's a few pics with the fairings on. They are in rough shape but they work. I'll probably paint the tank white but it doesn't look bad black.444e4e5bcdcd9d6c63dbe3635cff6dbb.jpg40f9ce62d58f63482ec5784fd261b6ed.jpgf87d78f8bcdd40d4a1c65cbd9941a0f8.jpg

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Any suggestions on where to get the quick release blots for the side fairings? I need a few other misc fairing bolts. I saw a kit pretty cheap but they replace the quick turns with nuts and bolts, I'd rather have the quick turns. Only place I found them so far was in the UK. Might see if the local speed shop has any laying around they'd give me.

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Ditto - Paint it and get rid of those naff stickers.

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put that thing in the sun and do it a favor and peel those hideous stickers off with your finger nails....lol


Haha I'm working on it. Believe it or not there were a lot more stickers I already took off!
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