ScottSturgis Posted March 11, 2017 Author Share Posted March 11, 2017 Also, I've ordered some genuine Honda parts. -carb insulators -oil filters -a factory service manul -some NGK DPR8EA-9 plugs I also got some new grips. I'll check the air filter when I get in there, just to make sure there isn't a cleanable UNI or K&N before I order a replacement. If I need one, I'm going with genuine a Honda paper filter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Captain 80s Posted March 11, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted March 11, 2017 20 hours ago, ScottSturgis said: Some mystery bits. The tank was still loose from where the P.O. drained it years ago. These were in the tray with the bolts. Top left looks like a collar that goes under the rubber at the front, but I watched him put that bolt in and I'm pretty sure all those parts were still there. Bottom right part is soft rubber. Collar is not the tank collar. That style is used by Honda typically in plastic to prevent overtightened and squishing plastic. Perhaps rear fender. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Captain 80s Posted March 11, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted March 11, 2017 20 hours ago, ScottSturgis said: And I like the idea of the '86 sump and oil pump, but it doesn't look like it would clear the Kerker. Or would it? RF pipe crosses under the engine and is probably going to be the hang up. Had to run 84 pan on my 86 race bike for this reason. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Captain 80s Posted March 12, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted March 12, 2017 5 hours ago, ScottSturgis said: Brake question(s): The rear caliper was stuck and we had to push back the piston to get it to roll. Going by the rust on the front rotors, only one of those calipers is working.A full flush is in order, but do you think I should go ahead and order seals and pull the pistons?Also, in the pic below, isn't that enough to do both front calipers? I can also get just the seals from Honda (and not the dust seals and plunger seals as shown in the pic). Should I just go ahead and replace them all? Disassemble first. And get some Red Rubber Grease. Often it is a matter of cleaning and re-assembly. But, if your budget allows, pre-order and rebuild. Yes, that is enough for both front calipers. The sliding pin boots can be split and the pin rusted in place. Sometimes, in a pinch, you can get away with removing the pads and pumping the pistons out a bit to allow removal of the crud ring allowing the pistons to retract properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottSturgis Posted March 12, 2017 Author Share Posted March 12, 2017 Red Rubber grease? What's that? Never heard of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Captain 80s Posted March 12, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted March 12, 2017 2 minutes ago, ScottSturgis said: Red Rubber grease? What's that? Never heard of it. Pretty sure that's what's in the picture with the seal kit. Get a tub of this: https://www.amazon.com/Millers-Oils-5196TB-Rubber-grease/dp/B00JFF4VF6 Best stuff in the world. OK to use for assembly internally. And some silicone lubricant for the slider boots: https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-97008-Lubricating-Translucent/dp/B01MR4RYVT/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1489277993&sr=1-3&keywords=super+lube And welcome to the Honda world. Get some of this: https://www.amazon.com/Sta-Lube-SL3330-Moly-Graph-Pressure-Multi-Purpose/dp/B000KKJQL4/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1489278160&sr=1-3&keywords=molybdenum+grease Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottSturgis Posted March 12, 2017 Author Share Posted March 12, 2017 It was WAY down on my list of stuff needed, but Chaparral had a sale on tires, so I ordered a set of Pirelli Sport Demon's for this beaut! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottSturgis Posted March 15, 2017 Author Share Posted March 15, 2017 Pleasantly surprised to find a K&N filter in the air box. Looks like it was cleaned and oiled just before storage. I also cleaned out the clutch and front brake master cylinders. Both are moving fluid just as they should. New piston seals for the calipers are on the way. Factory service manual and spark plugs showed up today. I plan on addressing the brakes, forks, clutch and tires first, then I'll move on to the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottSturgis Posted March 16, 2017 Author Share Posted March 16, 2017 How hard is it to R&R the exhaust? I'd like to pull off the header and paint it or have it coated. The front doesn't look to be an issue. The rear looks like it's in a tight spot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyinelvis Posted March 16, 2017 Share Posted March 16, 2017 Nice find, Mr. Sturgis! I have an '86 just north of you in Huntersville. It too is in very good condition (24K miles), fun, light. I don't run it above 8,500 RPM as suggested by Daugherty Motorsports in an attempt to ward off evil valve train spirits. I have an '86 parts bike if you're interested, mostly complete (sans tank and plastics). Don't know if the exhaust headers would be compatible with the Kerker system, but it may get you the '86 sump, pump and pan. I'd like to get it out of a friend's garage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottSturgis Posted March 16, 2017 Author Share Posted March 16, 2017 Thanks for the offer! The '86 sump won't clear the Kerker. Does the parts bike have the stock exhaust? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyinelvis Posted March 16, 2017 Share Posted March 16, 2017 29 minutes ago, ScottSturgis said: Does the parts bike have the stock exhaust? Yes it does. Most everything mechanical is there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MaxSwell Posted March 17, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted March 17, 2017 On 3/10/2017 at 7:39 PM, ScottSturgis said: Some mystery bits. The tank was still loose from where the P.O. drained it years ago. These were in the tray with the bolts. Top left looks like a collar that goes under the rubber at the front, but I watched him put that bolt in and I'm pretty sure all those parts were still there. Bottom right part is soft rubber. That rubber bumper on the right resembles something similar on my fifth gen. Without going out to my back-forty garage, I think it goes under the side of my fuel tank and against the frame. I've found many rubber vibration dampers all over these machines, eliminating a lot of buzz. I think it's one of those. Consider it a puzzle piece and look around. I can't find one in my machines parts fiche. Check out this source (something like part #13): http://shop.powersportscompany.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=2538542&category=Motorcycles&make=Honda&year=1985&fveh=132472 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottSturgis Posted March 17, 2017 Author Share Posted March 17, 2017 I have the body work off right now and nothing jumped out at me as being obviously missing. I'll check the underside of the tank too and see if there's a place for it. The P.O. has several other bikes and there's no guarantee that these are even for the VF500. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottSturgis Posted March 21, 2017 Author Share Posted March 21, 2017 Got the fork oil changed and pulled the wheels so I can clean them up and mount the new Pirelli Sport Demon's. I'm STILL waiting on piston seals for the calipers. Why in the world does it take two weeks to send 10 ounces of rubber seals from Florida to South Carolina?! I pulled the collars, or sliding sleeves, on the calipers, too. That's probably part of the reason they weren't retracting properly, don't ya think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremyr62 Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 Those caliper sleeves are a real PITA along with the rubber seals. They always corrode / perish. I have a bag full of corroded crappy examples. I get titanium alloy ones now. Can't skimp on brakes IMO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted March 21, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted March 21, 2017 yep, them sleeves look familiar. Started cleaning mine up (when I bought the bike) but thought better of it and bought new ones.... Tita alloy sounds good, if you have a link...... yes please! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremyr62 Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 https://titanclassics.com/product-category/honda-titanium-parts/vfr750/ Honda TITANIUM caliper sleeve 45111-ma3-006 is the part you need. 3 per bike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottSturgis Posted March 26, 2017 Author Share Posted March 26, 2017 "Pull the carbs", they said. "They'll be dirty and plugged even though they were drained", I was warned. The manual shows about four steps to remove them. Then why did it take me and the GF an hour and a half and moving a bunch of hoses and stuff out of the way to get them out?! And...yeah...you guessed it: They're clean as a whistle from everything I can see. On the inside, at least. All throttles, slides, diaphragms, etc. I pulled one bowl and it looked pretty damn good. I am NOT looking forward to installing these things. I can see getting the barrels from the cables back into the carbs, but how do you get to the 10mm nuts to set cable freeplay/tension when the carbs are installed? I'm dreading that job. Also, one thing that was really in the way was the fuel inlet. Is it pressed in or threaded in? Could I have removed it to clear the frame rail/clutch line and make the job easier? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFR4Lee Posted March 26, 2017 Share Posted March 26, 2017 Beautiful bike in the first pics. Good luck getting it going again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremyr62 Posted March 26, 2017 Share Posted March 26, 2017 I don't touch the clutch line when installing the carbs. To install I attach the cables with the carbs rotated 90degrees (along the long axis of the bike) then I rotate back and push them into the inlet rubbers. It is fiddly but possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottSturgis Posted March 26, 2017 Author Share Posted March 26, 2017 The fuel inlet fitting was hanging up on the clutch hard line. I had to take the lower soft line out of its bracket so I could move it out of the way enough to clear the 90 degree fitting on the carbs. After looking at it closer last night, it appears that handling the carb cables will be MUCH easier with the radiator out of the way. I'll be removing it soon anyway for the valve adjustment. I'll leave it out until the carbs are back in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Captain 80s Posted March 26, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted March 26, 2017 The carbs are out and appear really good, but please tell me you're still going to go through them. The cables are adjusted when hooked up right before carb re-installation. You do it with the carbs flipped to the side just enough, then just set them down in the V and check freeplay and snap back at full lock both ways. Make sure the cable adjuster up by switch is in a good middle position for final adjustment in either way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottSturgis Posted March 28, 2017 Author Share Posted March 28, 2017 Yes, my carb guy is going to go ahead and do a full check/clean/rebuild on the carbs. I did read about doing the cables beforehand.....slightly less terrifying, especially with the radiator out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottSturgis Posted March 28, 2017 Author Share Posted March 28, 2017 The bolts holding the master cylinders to the bars were hopelessly stuck. The clutch master was dry and full of crystals, but cleaned up, bled and operated properly. HOWEVER....it eventually started leaking after a few days. The bolts just rounded out, and the ones on the brake side were going to be just as bad. A friend came over and used his Matco extractor set to get the bolts out. They were stuck TIGHT. Funny thing is, only one of the four showed any corrosion. I had ordered rebuild kits for both, but canceled the order because new master cylinders are less than rebuild kits. The clutch is 14mm and the brake is 16mm. Most replacement sets I see are both 16mm. What would that mean for the clutch side? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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