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Engine noise / Knocking at 1500-2000rpm only, when warm only


YaroB

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The engine sounds sweet before its temperature reaches about 80C. Thereafter the knocking is audible only between 1500-2000rpm (no knocking below 1500rpm and either no knocking above 2000rpm or I am unable to hear it due to the engine drowning the knocking out). The noise seems to come from the right side of the engine, possibly the rear cylinder.

 

Otherwise the bike runs well, no smoke, no excessive oil consumption. Engine has lots of power throughout the rev range. I got the bike with 52,000 miles on it in June 2016. The knocking started 3000 miles and 6 months later. The bike now has 56000 on the clock. It is a 2002 model. Please check my video.

 

ANY IDEA WHAT IT IS and HOW TO SORT IT?

Thanks

 


 

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  • Member Contributer

Just for the heck of it, try pulling the clutch in when it's making the noise.

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Cam chain tensioners? Mine did that about the same mileage. Only made that clicking sound at idle or a bit higher (high idle). Pretty easy to change yourself for about $150-200 bucks. There's a thread on this forum on how to do it.

 

Here's a video of similar clicking - shitty audio - 

 

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  • Member Contributer

I would say it's very likely to be the cam chain tensioners. Mine was not so dissimilar and went away when I replaced them.

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  • Member Contributer

It's the most common issue with VFR's at the mileage you've done. Try and establish which bank of cylinders the noise is coming from, front or rear. The rear CCT is an easy replacement.

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  • 1 month later...

Thanks for everyone's input. It was the rear cam chain tensioner. I bought a locking tool for £5 on eBay and a new seal from a dealership for another £5 and followed the instructions in this video to reset the tensioner:

 

The rattle is gone. I saved a few hundred pounds. 

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YaroB if by "seal" you mean the metal gasket, no biggie but you could have saved £5. It's made of metal and perfectly reusable. If you were referring to the crush washer that goes under the uppermost bolt that's not really critical either but in most applications is good practice to replace (just in this case you can get a few goes out of it so long as you are not over zealous torqueing the bolt, which you shouldn't as it has a very low torque spec like 5-8Nm).

 

As for the locking key you can make one out of just about anything if you have a radial grinder or a decent hacksaw.

 

I have a thread on here somewhere explaining all this.

 

Also the widening of the drainage hole in the metal gasket is somewhat controversial if you have read the threads on here there are very good arguments for and against so it really is a personal decision and not scientifically verified.

 

Even just tightening that spring is not necessarily guaranteed to work (I personally have seen failed attempts) but if you like tinkering and have the time can be worth trying.

 

On the odd occasion I have seen how just trying a different motor oil brand or even same brand but different SAE has put an end to CCT rattle. It's a much easier way to try although obviously more expensive as tightening the CCT yourself is free and just uses up your time so unless your time is worth a fortune... in which case you'd probably just hand the bike over to a mechanic and say "fix it".

 

 Still, I'm glad it appears to be sorted!

 

 

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