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6th Gen - Regulator Rectifier Diode Test

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G'Day all,

 

I have a 2006 VFR800 Gen 6.

 

Recently my bike wouldn't start so I fully recharged my battery with a CTEK battery charger.

 

A few days later of riding my instrument panel completely lost power and then my bike konked out. Lucky it stopped right outside my house.

 

Did a bunch of online reading and YouTubing and some tests with my multimeter and it would appear my battery isn't charging anymore with the bike running.

 

I pulled off the RR and the only test that appears to be failing or not providing any reading would be when I connect my Red multimeter cable to the Black RR cable and my Black multimeter cable to each of the 3 Yellow RR cables.

 

Testing the 2 red and 2 green RR cables all produce the same reading which is good but I am getting nothing when I check the black(negative) RR cable.

 

Does this mean my negative RR diode is faulty and hence need a replacement RR?

 

Based on all the YT videos I have been watching, the negative should be getting the same reading across all three yellow cables. Mine is not.

 

One video suggests as per the type of RR i.e. the SR or QR series will determine what type of test and reading needs to be conducted in order to work out if the RR is faulty or not.

 

I haven't been able to find an exact step by step process for test the Honda VFR800 RR. If anyone has a detailed link I would also appreciate it.

 

Cheers,

Aidan

 

 

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<broken_record>Don't forget to check the starter relay. Their connections have a habit of becoming resistive and failing. If so, even a perfect alternator and rec/reg won't help because there is no path to the battery</broken_record>

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Easiest charging system test is to put one of the multimeter leads into the stator plug to contact the terminal and the other to the frame on continuity setting. You want zero continuity between each yellow wire from the stator and ground (frame). If you have continuity, one or all of the stator phases (there are 3) is shorted and you aren't charging at full capacity. 

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Congrats - you have classic VFR charging system death.... 

Follow the steps...... 

 

 

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Kudos to BusyLittleShop for the PDF instructions and everyone's 2 bobs worth.

 

Based on the testing with my multimeter both my stator and RR are cooked :s

 

Replacements are ordered and on the way.

 

Thanks mello dude, all this classic VFR charging system death woes are really convincing me to buy a Bush Pig (DR650) as a 2nd ride :)

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Hi Aidan

Your Stator may be cooked but your RR may be ok. Had the same situation as you and my stator was cooked (windings shorted to frame). Also fitted a new RR as a precaution and prior to fitting did an ohm meter comparison between new and old and they were both the same.

 

RR Part Number 31600-MCW-D61

Here's the Readings.

 

Two Green Wires = 0 ohms to each other.

Two Red/White Wires = 0 ohms to each other.

METER TO DIODE RANGE.

Reds to Greens = 1.18 approx ohms (Red meter lead to Green Wire)

Black Wire appears to have NO Connection!!

Yellow Wires have no connection to each other.

Yellow Wires measure like a Diode to Green Wires (Red meter lead to Green Wire).

 

Cheers.

Grum

 

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Cool thanks for the info Grum.

 

My parts arrived and so I stared working on it today.

 

Yep, as suspected it is cooked and was ever worse on the other side.

 

Does anybody have any brilliant methods for trying to remove the green stock stator gasket in the photo below? I have been carefully scraping it off with a sharp blade without damaging the case cover very much, but strewth it is taking a long TIME.......

 

Its totally baked in mainly on the cover side as you can see in the photo below..... kinda reminds me of trying to remove the crap that is sometimes leave behind when removing a sticker.

 

I also bought a genuine Honda VFR800 rubber gasket. Do I need any small dabs of RTV silicon gasket sealant where the 2 engine joint lines are? and also around the wires rubber boot at the top?

 

I saw some people online using a very thin coating of engine oil when attaching the stator gasket on their sports bikes (just like you do when replacing your oil filter). Does anyone else do this or not?

 

In addition I also noticed passing the stator wires across to the other side of my bike in between the V looks like its gonna be a bitch.

 

Can you pull your wire through with some string or I am gonna have to pull up the tank and remove the airbox to pass it through?

 

Cheers,

Aidan

IMAG3003.jpg

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Hi Aidan.

Looks like the standard crispy 6 gen Stator. Yep I tied a string to the cable before pulling carefully pulling it through the Vee, also just used a standard gasket with a light coating of Permatex Gasket Sealant both sides of the gasket, works a treat and is non hardening Auto Stores carry this stuff. Also had the same issue removing the old gasket, requires patience and a careful hand!

Also made a note in my manual for future reference to Fit The New Gasket Onto The Engine Side First Then Fit The Cover.

Did you try the Reg/Rect ohm checks I posted for you?

Cheers.

Grum5355-zoom.jpg

 

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My 6th Generation vfr800 had the same issue. Carried out all tests and eventually discovered I had a burnt stator. Had to fix a new stator yesterday and also fixed a volt meter to warn me if my battery is not charging. The bike will be on road test tomorrow.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

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