stuck slide protector rod

[Viking]

hi I've got a 2006 vfr 800 and recently dropped bike at 30 mph , the r&g frame protector bent and cracked the left fairing . I can't seem to remove the tie rod despite copious amounts of wd40 and a hammer . the spacer on the bent side is still in situ as the rod is not straight enough yet to slide it off . 

the guy at R&G said just tap it out but I'm wondering with the corrosion that's obviously happened should I be jacking up engine to take weight off the rod also . I'm  completely new to biking and at a loss 

[MadScientist]

That rod runs through the V between the cylinder banks, slightly toward the front 2 cylinders.  This location is notorious for holding all manner of crap that falls from above, including liquids that speed up oxidation.

 

You can try jacking the front of the engine slightly.  There are 3 bolts that secure the engine/transmission into the frame, so this is not strictly necessary and may actually create binding.

 

I would lift the tank, remove the airbox, and spray the rod with penetrating oil/liquid wrench, WD-40 is not the best tool for loosening stuck bolts.  It may be difficult or impossible without removing the throttle bodies, but you might be able to reach it with one of those red straw things.  For reference, it is just behind the cam chain tensioner.  There are gaps in the engine casing above the rod, so you should be able to get most of it with oil.

 

The crash may have tweaked the alignment of the two frame tabs and the engine casing, so you might have to hit it "persuasively".  You may want to remove the throttle bodies anyway so you can inspect the frame for stress or cracking.

 

Thanks to Skids for the original picture.

[Woodie]

Not wishing to worry you but I had to cut the rod out of my 2003 as it had welded itself in with corrosion. it was also bent so even after cutting the engine out I had to knock the bar out from inside the frame. The impact had 'mushroomed' the bar inside the frame so no mount of knocking would knock it 'in' but it came out quite easily when knocked 'out'.

 

I read somewhere that the grade of S/steel for R&G crash bung rods is quite malleable as it is meant to bend rather than snap in a crash.

[Viking]

thanks for replies so far . Ive just bought so penetrating fluid so will see how that goes and a Haynes manual is winging its way in post also .

     the bike had one owner from new and done 47000 , mainly motorway miles to Spain . I'm guessing he fitted the R&G's when bought new , a few years of self welding itself eh  and yeah the bars are debrittled to allow bending not snapping during crash .

 

[Viking]

[Egg on Leggs]

Viking, I have had a similar problem due to seizure and had to be quite brutal in getting it out but was able to do so without other damage.

 

Are you in the original Duudlaee, the one abot 10 miles from me?

[Viking]

hey , near enough I'm just outside Wall Heath . 

[Viking]

hey , near enough I'm just outside Wall Heath . where you from Eggs

[daved]

I had a problem(corrosion) removing this bar from my FI-Y when replacing the engine. I ended up using an angle grinder through the left-hand engine spacer to cut the bar and then though the bar in the V of the engine.

There is a section of bar still corroded into my old engine.

 

If you lock a couple of nuts onto the other(right-hand)  end of the bar can you get it to rotate at all?  - even a small amount of movement will allow the penetrating fluid to do it's job.

 

I now rotate this bar every oil change to ensure it's still moving.

 

 

[Egg on Leggs]

4 hours ago, Viking said:

hey , near enough I'm just outside Wall Heath . where you from Eggs

Kings Heath.

 

When I got a replacement for my R&G bar, I mullered the threads hammering it out, I rubbed it down with Emery Cloth. I removed just enough to remove the machine marks on the bar. Loads of Copaslip and not a problem since.

[Woodie]

15 hours ago, daved said:

I had a problem(corrosion) removing this bar from my FI-Y when replacing the engine. I ended up using an angle grinder through the left-hand engine spacer to cut the bar and then though the bar in the V of the engine.

There is a section of bar still corroded into my old engine.

 

 

That's exactly the situation I ended up with.

[CHUCK2]

I had R&G sliders installed on my 5G a couple years ago.

I wonder if I should remove this rod then use Emery Cloth and/or anti-seize lube on it prior to reinstalling it. 

[Egg on Leggs]

7 hours ago, MysteryRider246 said:

I had R&G sliders installed on my 5G a couple years ago.

I wonder if I should remove this rod then use Emery Cloth and/or anti-seize lube on it prior to reinstalling it. 

 

Yes. It will save you a lot of time when you really need to remove it.