Jump to content

Slave rebuild necessary?


Recommended Posts

 

12 hours ago, BusyLittleShop said:

 

You can test for clutch drag while on the center stand...

your gears can't shift smoothly if your clutch is part way engaged...

 

1 Place your bike on the center stand...

2 Start engine and establish a steady idle...

3 Squeeze in the clutch and hold... shift into first gear...

4 Now look at the rear wheel... if it's spinning step on the rear brake...
does this action drag down the engine rpms???

 

Ultimately you want the rear wheel to stop when the engine is idling
and first gear selected with the clutch lever is squeezed in...

 

All of that is great info, thank you sir. I ran the bike earlier with the wheel off the ground. No wheel movement at idle in first and no rpm change. Sounds a little better as well. My clutch rod was getting hung up so it feels pretty solid. Now to just ride the thing. Also using DOT4 per recommend for the bike, except I'll be doing routine maintenance on it and checking the fluid and changing when necessary.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Just to add, anyone that needs to replace their clutch slave on a VF500, VF700, VFR750 and VFR800 (98-01 only), the same unit is used on many hondas, most recently CB1100 2013-2014; CB1000R 2011-2015; I found a salvage unit from ebay for £20, 5 years old, of course the seals might need changing but this is for those that the caliper/piston have worn down. Beats £80+ honda prices.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 05/02/2017 at 11:50 AM, FairWeatherFellow said:

 

All of that is great info, thank you sir. I ran the bike earlier with the wheel off the ground. No wheel movement at idle in first and no rpm change. Sounds a little better as well. My clutch rod was getting hung up so it feels pretty solid. Now to just ride the thing. Also using DOT4 per recommend for the bike, except I'll be doing routine maintenance on it and checking the fluid and changing when necessary.

I have had the side of my clutch off, and I am not sure how I should place this washer that was in the rebuild kit. I didn't have one in there when I took it off: 

 

There is rubber in the piston, but it doesn't want to come out the part fiche isn't very clear... is this meant to go inside the piston, or it sits outside the piston, if so which way facing the case or piston? 

ZNmtamk.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, courtuk said:

I have had the side of my clutch off, and I am not sure how I should place this washer that was in the rebuild kit. I didn't have one in there when I took it off: 

 

There is rubber in the piston, but it doesn't want to come out the part fiche isn't very clear... is this meant to go inside the piston, or it sits outside the piston, if so which way facing the case or piston? 

ZNmtamk.jpg

What's the other side look like? To be honest I never rebuilt the slave, my issues was the clutch rod hanging up so I didn't need too. That looks the the gasket that is recessed in the piston that the rod slides into.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, FairWeatherFellow said:

What's the other side look like? To be honest I never rebuilt the slave, my issues was the clutch rod hanging up so I didn't need too. That looks the the gasket that is recessed in the piston that the rod slides into.

The other side is flat. It does look like it belongs inside the piston, however my old piston that was worn, I tried to remove the rubber and it just would not come out, I eventually was digging it out with pointy tools, this doesn't seem too fit inside smoothly or with force. Although maybe if it was put inside the clutch rod it would press into the piston when actuating. I wonder if anyone else can take their slave off and see if they have this rubber piece loose inside ???

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, courtuk said:

The other side is flat. It does look like it belongs inside the piston, however my old piston that was worn, I tried to remove the rubber and it just would not come out, I eventually was digging it out with pointy tools, this doesn't seem too fit inside smoothly or with force. Although maybe if it was put inside the clutch rod it would press into the piston when actuating. I wonder if anyone else can take their slave off and see if they have this rubber piece loose inside ???

I could take a photo of my old slave when I get home if you need. But there shouldn't be anything loose when you remove the slave besides the clutch rod. The only seal that it resembles is the seal on the inside of the piston that the rod seats into. Otherwise I'm not sure what the seals inside the the assembly look like, sorry I'm not much help. I'd also recommend sanding your clutch Rod and flipping it while everything is apart.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 27/03/2017 at 5:48 PM, FairWeatherFellow said:

I could take a photo of my old slave when I get home if you need. But there shouldn't be anything loose when you remove the slave besides the clutch rod. The only seal that it resembles is the seal on the inside of the piston that the rod seats into. Otherwise I'm not sure what the seals inside the the assembly look like, sorry I'm not much help. I'd also recommend sanding your clutch Rod and flipping it while everything is apart.

Okay, I guess the old seal is just stuck in the piston. I will try again to remove it.

 

Which part of the rod should I sand? It seems smooth all the way along. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

To get the piston out unhook the slave line, at this point the slave is loose and you can take it to the bench. Now un screw the blender valve (fluid is gonna go everywhere). At the point get a rag and start pulling up on opposite sides of the piston. It's will come out now as all the negative pressure is released. The part of the seal in your picture up there faces flush against the bottom. I'll attach a skematic that shows you. If the piston is lightly scored you can hit that, and the rod with very high grit sandpaper (400 grit). If the piston is any more scored than that can smooth out just order a new one. They are cheap.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 6/6/2017 at 1:36 PM, nicholas042416 said:

To get the piston out unhook the slave line, at this point the slave is loose and you can take it to the bench. Now un screw the blender valve (fluid is gonna go everywhere). At the point get a rag and start pulling up on opposite sides of the piston. It's will come out now as all the negative pressure is released. The part of the seal in your picture up there faces flush against the bottom. I'll attach a skematic that shows you. If the piston is lightly scored you can hit that, and the rod with very high grit sandpaper (400 grit). If the piston is any more scored than that can smooth out just order a new one. They are cheap.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Great info, thanks man. Actually had the slave go out that I replaced my old one with, just stopped holding pressure and puked it's guts out everywhere. Now the original is on and works great. 

 

Miles

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great info, thanks man. Actually had the slave go out that I replaced my old one with, just stopped holding pressure and puked it's guts out everywhere. Now the original is on and works great. 
 
Miles

Might hold off for better information on the position of the seal, I've seen two diagrams and it looks opposite on both. If I figure it out definitively I'll let you know


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy.