FairWeatherFellow Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 I'm changing out the sprockets on my 95 VFR and when removing the front sprocket cover i found fluid in one of the cover to case bolt holes. Initially i though that fluid may pass through but that didn't make any real sense. This is most likely just a leaky clutch slave cylinder that needs to be dealt with i think. Any input on this? I'm pointing to the center bolt hole on both sides where fluid was found. Thanks! Miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CandyRedRC46 Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 http://www.ebay.com/itm/RC51-CBR1000RR-CB1300-VTR1000F-RC30-CBR1100XX-X-4-RC45-TSR-CLUTCH-SLAVE-CYLINDER-/282274238736?hash=item41b8db1110:g:1c4AAOSw-W5UzClK&vxp=mtr I put one of these on my vfr800 vtec and couldn't be happier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FairWeatherFellow Posted January 23, 2017 Author Share Posted January 23, 2017 Looks like it'd be quite an upgrade! Unfortunately a bit out of the price range. So I take it your opinion is that it's shot? I bought a rebuild kit just Incase. I bled the slave a previous, fluid was consistency of pudding... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer SamW Posted January 23, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted January 23, 2017 I have had to replace slaves in my '86, '95 and RC30. I just bought new OEM Honda and put them in. I have yet to try to rebuild one, but I saved my old ones thinking I would one day. Fluid always stays dark on the clutch vs. the brake side, not sure why. With the look of the MC, I might take it apart and clean it too, and consider a new line. Black fluid in mine before, but not pudding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FairWeatherFellow Posted January 23, 2017 Author Share Posted January 23, 2017 Right on, thanks for the input! I'll look into what it might take to do the master as well. Unfortunately all I can find for "new" slaves is aftermarket or used so I figured I'll just rebuild it. What's the worse that could happen right? This bike sat for a really long time at one point and maintenance was severely neglected. You should have seen the water pump! 10k on the clock too...? Sad stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer SamW Posted January 24, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted January 24, 2017 CYLINDER ASSY., CLUTCH SLAVE 22860-ML7-010 MR cycles has them for $77, at least the website says so. Not cheap, and there is not much to them, but I might be worried about the state of the piston/cylinder based on the MC picture. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FairWeatherFellow Posted January 24, 2017 Author Share Posted January 24, 2017 This is what was purchased, i believe its just the seals and sorts needed for the slave http://www.ebay.com/itm/291732037384 Interesting, maybe I'll contact them and see if i can't validate If it's true OE. If so i wouldn't mind picking it up and returning the rebuild kit... I've discovered there is a lot of trial and error with parts on these bikes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CandyRedRC46 Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 $77 for new oem vs $36 for rebuilding the oem, I would definitely just buy a new oem slave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FairWeatherFellow Posted January 24, 2017 Author Share Posted January 24, 2017 Agreed, thanks for the input! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FairWeatherFellow Posted February 2, 2017 Author Share Posted February 2, 2017 I was buying some items from V-FORE and felt his clutch pull on his old bike and it was great. He gave me the master and slave combo and I put it on my bike. There was no pressure or anything once installed. I bled the damn thing for a while to no prevail. Is there something that could cause my slave and master to have no pressure that isn't involved with the salve and master at all? Thanks, Miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreginDenver Posted February 3, 2017 Share Posted February 3, 2017 are all the pieces back in the bike? I mean that the clutch slave presses on the Clutch Lifter Rod, so if that rod was still sitting on you work bench instead of in the bike the clutch slave cylinder would have nothing to press on. Just a "sanity check" thought, stranger things have happened when reassembling a bike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted February 3, 2017 Share Posted February 3, 2017 I was buying some items from V-FORE and felt his clutch pull on his old bike and it was great. He gave me the master and slave combo and I put it on my bike. There was no pressure or anything once installed. I bled the damn thing for a while to no prevail. Is there something that could cause my slave and master to have no pressure that isn't involved with the salve and master at all? Thanks, Miles De ja vu? I could have sworn I saw this same enquiry in a different thread? This is going to get confusing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer SamW Posted February 3, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted February 3, 2017 This system is just a pain to bleed. Sometimes it helps to remove the clutch MC from the bike and hold it in such a way that the MC to line connection is at the lowest point while you pump it. Also like the above said, make sure you have the clutch rod in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer VFR Capt.Bob Posted February 3, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted February 3, 2017 Pretty easy to rebuild it and cheap if your piston os still good. $45 difference for similar time spent on the repair. I am a tightwad when working on older bikes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FairWeatherFellow Posted February 3, 2017 Author Share Posted February 3, 2017 4 hours ago, Auspanglish said: De ja vu? I could have sworn I saw this same enquiry in a different thread? This is going to get confusing. Potentially I made a inquiry in another thread I have going about my bike. Figured I'd put the question in both for the most info. 6 hours ago, GreginDenver said: are all the pieces back in the bike? I mean that the clutch slave presses on the Clutch Lifter Rod, so if that rod was still sitting on you work bench instead of in the bike the clutch slave cylinder would have nothing to press on. Just a "sanity check" thought, stranger things have happened when reassembling a bike. Yup, I never removed the rod just for that reason! Everything is in and should function properly. 2 hours ago, SamW said: This system is just a pain to bleed. Sometimes it helps to remove the clutch MC from the bike and hold it in such a way that the MC to line connection is at the lowest point while you pump it. Also like the above said, make sure you have the clutch rod in. I haven't thought about that, I'll give it a try. The problem is that I know the system doesn't have an in it because I felt the clutch pull on the bike it came off of and it felt great. That's why I used it as my replacement to avoid further complications. But here I am... 1 hour ago, VFR Capt.Bob said: Pretty easy to rebuild it and cheap if your piston os still good. $45 difference for similar time spent on the repair. I am a tightwad when working on older bikes. Really I shouldn't have to rebuild the slave. The new system I put in was fully functioning. The real question is if my springs and clutch assembly would cause poor clutch feel in the lever? Thanks, Miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer BusyLittleShop Posted February 3, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted February 3, 2017 Slave on Mr.RC45 lasted from 1994 to 2012 then it was rebuilt... the MT7 part is sourced from the NR750... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FairWeatherFellow Posted February 3, 2017 Author Share Posted February 3, 2017 5 minutes ago, BusyLittleShop said: Slave on Mr.RC45 lasted from 1994 to 2012 then it was rebuilt... the MT7 part is sourced from the NR750... Lucky guy, probably lasted due to routine maintenance. Unfortunately that's not my case, there's a chance mine had factory fluid in it still...Out of curiosity how does one remove the piston exactly? I do have a rebuild kit on standby just Incase... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer BCmcrider Posted February 3, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted February 3, 2017 1 hour ago, FairWeatherFellow said: Potentially I made a inquiry in another thread I have going about my bike. Figured I'd put the question in both for the most info. Yup, I never removed the rod just for that reason! Everything is in and should function properly. I haven't thought about that, I'll give it a try. The problem is that I know the system doesn't have an in it because I felt the clutch pull on the bike it came off of and it felt great. That's why I used it as my replacement to avoid further complications. But here I am... Really I shouldn't have to rebuild the slave. The new system I put in was fully functioning. The real question is if my springs and clutch assembly would cause poor clutch feel in the lever? Thanks, Miles Depending on how you held it, it could have gotten air in it during removal, transportation, installation. It happens on occasion with my trials bike when it does a few rotations crashing down a hill. Also happened on my 2000vfr when I dropped it on the clutch side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FairWeatherFellow Posted February 4, 2017 Author Share Posted February 4, 2017 1 hour ago, BCmcrider said: Depending on how you held it, it could have gotten air in it during removal, transportation, installation. It happens on occasion with my trials bike when it does a few rotations crashing down a hill. Also happened on my 2000vfr when I dropped it on the clutch side. Alright thanks for the input. In going to clean up the pushrod and hold the master below the slave when I bleed it next. Hopefully that will do it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer SamW Posted February 4, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted February 4, 2017 To get the cylinder out, remove the slave from the bike and slowly squeeze the master lever until the piston slides out enough to grip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FairWeatherFellow Posted February 4, 2017 Author Share Posted February 4, 2017 1 hour ago, SamW said: To get the cylinder out, remove the slave from the bike and slowly squeeze the master lever until the piston slides out enough to grip. Awesome, thank you good sir! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer SamW Posted February 4, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted February 4, 2017 Beware of the fluid dump once the piston is removed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FairWeatherFellow Posted February 4, 2017 Author Share Posted February 4, 2017 Gotcha thanks. So I removed the slave rechecked for solid piston movement, all good there. So I pulled the rod and found heavy scoring on it, sanded the rod and put it in the other way. After rebleeding we have pressure again! Now to wait a bit for our torrential downpour to end then I can test it on the road! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer BusyLittleShop Posted February 4, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted February 4, 2017 23 hours ago, FairWeatherFellow said: Lucky guy, probably lasted due to routine maintenance. Unfortunately that's not my case, there's a chance mine had factory fluid in it still...Out of curiosity how does one remove the piston exactly? I do have a rebuild kit on standby just Incase... Hydraulic actuating clutches are the gold standard and we're lucky our bikes are equip because they cost more than simple cable operated clutch... they work buttery smooth only if the brake fluid is fresh... but when the DOT 3 or 4 or 5.1 Glycol fluid goes from fresh golden, then light brown, indicating that it has absorbed progressively more moisture. Eventually, if left unchanged beyond the recommended service interval, the fluid will become dark brown, indicating high amounts of water absorption and thus badly contaminated fluid will begin corroding your parts... you may need to drain and flush the system and rebuild the slave cylinder to have that buttery smooth feeling once again... DOT 3 DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 are Glycol based brake fluids whereas DOT 5 are Silicone based... Glycol based fluids are designed to signal moisture contamination... the fluid will start to turn golden, then light brown, indicating that it has absorbed progressively more moisture. Eventually, if left unchanged beyond the recommended service interval, the fluid will become dark brown, indicating high amounts of water absorption and thus badly contaminated fluid... user friendly Glycol based fluids also reduce the effect of both corrosion and compressibility because it is not only designed to accept significant amounts of moisture, but even to neutralize it by dispersing this moisture evenly throughout the system, thus preventing its concentration in any one area... DOT 5 Silicone based fluid will not turn color to signal moisture content... DOT 5 was created for the military to use in vehicles that will be parked for years at a time. Harley-Davidson used DOT 5 until a decade ago but specifies DOT 4 now. Boiling point of Glycol based brake fluids DOT 3 205 °C (401 °F) DOT 4 230 °C (446 °F) DOT 5.1 270 °C (518 °F) Boiling point of Silicone based brake fluids DOT 5 260 °C (500 °F) If you wish to use the latest in Glycol base fluids then its DOT 5.1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer BusyLittleShop Posted February 4, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted February 4, 2017 49 minutes ago, FairWeatherFellow said: Gotcha thanks. So I removed the slave rechecked for solid piston movement, all good there. So I pulled the rod and found heavy scoring on it, sanded the rod and put it in the other way. After rebleeding we have pressure again! Now to wait a bit for our torrential downpour to end then I can test it on the road! You can test for clutch drag while on the center stand... your gears can't shift smoothly if your clutch is part way engaged... 1 Place your bike on the center stand... 2 Start engine and establish a steady idle... 3 Squeeze in the clutch and hold... shift into first gear... 4 Now look at the rear wheel... if it's spinning step on the rear brake... does this action drag down the engine rpms??? Ultimately you want the rear wheel to stop when the engine is idling and first gear selected with the clutch lever is squeezed in... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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