daewon774 Posted February 10, 2017 Author Share Posted February 10, 2017 Bump. I could use any help or advice or comments on this. Even if that means dancing around the bike, spinning three times, tapping the exhaust, and pouring some gin on the seat. Seriously. I'll take any advice at this point. Ive tried contacting Josh on here and his website. No dice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daewon774 Posted February 12, 2017 Author Share Posted February 12, 2017 I'm about to tear this thing out. Please help, I'm begging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loftust Posted February 12, 2017 Share Posted February 12, 2017 Send it back for exchange or refund if there's no contact from the supplier/manufacturer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted February 18, 2017 Share Posted February 18, 2017 Sorry I haven't been as active of late so I missed your questions. I always leave the possibility of human error open on these harnesses...I build them by hand and have on occasion made a mistake (don't tell my wife I confessed that). The VFRness should (in theory) have no effect on the buzzing relay. In general the buzz means the relay isn't getting the power it needs to fully make it's connection. Did you confirm that the red wire going to the starter relay was correctly inserted? The wiring on the VFRness is fairly simple. It forms a T between the OEM R/R connectors. In theory this is duplicating the path to ground (on the frame at the R/R) and to the battery (via the 8 gauge wire that runs to the battery + terminal). The relay is only there to provide the OEM R/R with a clean reading...without it you could have an overcharging scenario. If you disconnected the VFRness from ground and battery it would be nothing more than 12" of additional wiring between the R/R and the OEM harness. Based on the numbers you gave it sounds like your VFRness relay is stuck in the "on" position. Disconnect the relay and check the following with the key off: Red to Ground (12V expected) Purple to Ground (0v expected) Green to Battery + (12V expected) Blue to Ground (0V expected) With the key on and the relay disconnected the only difference should be the blue wire now has voltage If the voltages are right at the relay, try a different Bosch style 4 or 5 pin relay. You should not have power to the purple wire(relay output) or blue wir (relay input) unless the key is on because the blue wire is connected to the ignition switch. Joshau Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daewon774 Posted April 16, 2017 Author Share Posted April 16, 2017 @Tightwad sorry for the late reply. I finally had the chance to pick up a new relay. I got the same result. Can I send this back to you for an exchange? Everyone has had great results with your product, I'd love to be apart of that following. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted April 16, 2017 Share Posted April 16, 2017 Please send it to me and I will check it out and fix/return itSent from my XT1635-02 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daewon774 Posted April 19, 2017 Author Share Posted April 19, 2017 On 4/16/2017 at 11:45 AM, Tightwad said: Please send it to me and I will check it out and fix/return it Sent from my XT1635-02 using Tapatalk @TightwadThanks, I appreciate the help! Could you PM me your address that I can send this back to? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer thtanner Posted April 23, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted April 23, 2017 I just put one of these on my 02 and it worked great. I went from 13.8v to 14.3v @ idle! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer dgordon Posted May 10, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted May 10, 2017 So what is the outcome? This is very simple kit, and very well made. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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