vfrgo Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 Hi all, I'm getting to that time of the year, when I get antsy and want to change something on the Viffer... I've had it go down in the trailer, en route to Alabama last February, and haven't gotten around to mending the cracked fairings... so I was thinking, while I'm at it - why not Switch out the forks, breaks etc. for something much better.. I've heard that the 200-2001 RC51 front clip is a good candidate, but has anyone actually done it? Does it require any completely custom fabricated pieces? What to look out for etc.. My forks are fine, but I was just curious if there were other upgrades on the suspension side of things. I was also curious if there are advantages and options to looking at a upgrade/more modern rear shock? Would a late 90's CBRR or early 00's VTR RC51 rear shocks fit? Any advantages? I'm more prone to spirited touring, than track, as far as the riding style goes.. Anyone out there have any first hand experience? much appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JZH Posted January 10, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted January 10, 2017 I'm in the middle of doing an "unusual" fork swap on my '93 FP: SP1 wheel, SP2 forks, VFR1200 yokes. I chose those yokes because I wanted to get more offset (35mm) than provided by the usual fork swaps (30mm), which would be a big change from stock (40mm). The main problem I encountered was that the fork tubes and the bottom yoke hit the upper fairing stay in a few places, which I resolved by beating and torturing the fairing stay. I also had to get some fully adjustable extender clip-ons (ABM Multi-clip), as I couldn't make stock, Heli or Tommaselli work. If you use a different set of triples, you may have different clearance issues to resolve. (I have re-fit the radiator, but not yet the oil cooler--I understand that clearance can be an issue.) I've been "doing" it for so long I've forgotten why it's not yet done... Oh, that's why. Got distracted! Ciao, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdouvill Posted January 13, 2017 Share Posted January 13, 2017 You probably want to have a look at @TheStig thread here: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheStig Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 JZH, even if you do modify the fairing frame, these thicker forks will hit the fairing panels (underneath) so you'll have to shave a bit off there. I can't get full lock, but can turn the steering enough to make it have a turning circle of an old Ducati, say. It's OK - as long as I lean it well into every turn it's fine. I just have to make sure anybody that does ride the bike isn't lacking in confidence. Someday, when I have a bit more time I'll take it all apart again & cut and re-weld the fairing frame. For now it works as a lock stop of sorts. Also need to get around to making parts from an RC30 swing arm assembly and an RC45 wheel fit so I can fit an underslung Brembo rear caliper and get rid of the ugly cush drive of the VFR. No hurry though - these projects are best left till I find time. Another bike is beckoning my attention soon... Haven't ridden the VFR in about 2 months. Too damn cold outside and my Husky's side stand snapped off the other day just because I dared look at it. 2 months to get another new one, most likely. No regrets! A warm car is better till the spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JZH Posted February 4, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted February 4, 2017 Thanks for the tips. I don't know if my mods to the fairing stay got back all of the steering lock that I had with the OEM forks, but I have enough to lock the steering with the key and without modifying the frame or the steering lock mechanism. Your bikes always look great... (Even with mis-matched wheels!) Ciao, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vfrgo Posted February 11, 2017 Author Share Posted February 11, 2017 Damn!!! That is a mad machine, Stig! Wow! OK, I may be undertaking this in the coming months. I've read somewhere that using a 2001 RC51 top yoke allows for reusing the stock handlebars. Is this the case? Other than that sounds like fairing stay is the big issue.. I am a bit more curious about having to deal with the rad? Is that an absolutely needed thing to do? As in, so you have to relocate it fully or just adjust for clearance for the thicker forks? If I have to mess with it, is there any suggestion for an upgrade? It's a 24 year old piece of aluminum (?) afteall... Now the hard part... anyone have a lead on a RC51SP1 front end? I found one in Canada, but the wrecker wouldn't sell front separate from rear... and at 1200 bucks for the whole thing seemed steep (for me). How much should I expect to spend on the front clip? Yolks, forks, breaks... wheel? Can I run the 3rd Gen front with this setup? I read that it's possible with some spacers... but is it easier just to run the RC wheel? So many questions.. Thanks folks!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rice Posted February 11, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted February 11, 2017 I've just done similar conversion, only instead of RC51 I used R1 front end. Same tube diameter, so same issues to overcome. You will have to move the radiator back about an inch. You will also tweak, shave the front stay on the sides where it attaches to the frame. I also notched the frame where the stay attaches to gain more turning. Choosing the handlebars or clip-ons that work with stock bodywork is another issue to overcome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rice Posted February 11, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted February 11, 2017 On 2/2/2017 at 8:51 AM, TheStig said: JZH, even if you do modify the fairing frame, these thicker forks will hit the fairing panels (underneath) so you'll have to shave a bit off there. I can't get full lock, but can turn the steering enough to make it have a turning circle of an old Ducati, say. It's OK - as long as I lean it well into every turn it's fine. I just have to make sure anybody that does ride the bike isn't lacking in confidence. Someday, when I have a bit more time I'll take it all apart again & cut and re-weld the fairing frame. For now it works as a lock stop of sorts. Also need to get around to making parts from an RC30 swing arm assembly and an RC45 wheel fit so I can fit an underslung Brembo rear caliper and get rid of the ugly cush drive of the VFR. No hurry though - these projects are best left till I find time. Another bike is beckoning my attention soon... Haven't ridden the VFR in about 2 months. Too damn cold outside and my Husky's side stand snapped off the other day just because I dared look at it. 2 months to get another new one, most likely. No regrets! A warm car is better till the spring. Hey Stig. What did you use for handlebars? I got Renthal fat bar on some risers and it hits the bodywork. I'm also not in love with the angle of the grips. Will probably need clip-ons, but don't know which to choose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JZH Posted February 12, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted February 12, 2017 20 hours ago, Rice said: I've just done similar conversion, only instead of RC51 I used R1 front end. Same tube diameter, so same issues to overcome. You will have to move the radiator back about an inch. You will also tweak, shave the front stay on the sides where it attaches to the frame. I also notched the frame where the stay attaches to gain more turning. Choosing the handlebars or clip-ons that work with stock bodywork is another issue to overcome. I didn't need to move the radiator at all, though the plastic guard/grille was in the way, so I removed it. Do you mean the oil cooler? Of course, I was using a different bottom yoke... Ciao, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rice Posted February 12, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted February 12, 2017 38 minutes ago, JZH said: I didn't need to move the radiator at all, though the plastic guard/grille was in the way, so I removed it. Do you mean the oil cooler? Of course, I was using a different bottom yoke... Ciao, Hmm... Strange. I used R1 bottom tripple and 929 top. This should be pretty much identical to the RC51 setup with same fork diameter. I did not have to notch the frame, but wanted to get some extra parking lot maneuverability. Maybe that's why I had to move the rad. I did not have any clearance issues with the forks fouling on plastics. This is what's strange to me, b/c the forks a "miles" away from any plastic on my setup. Handlebars fouling in the area of windshield is another story. I am trying to find a way of getting around it w/o having to spend $400 for fancy clipons. Looks like the closest to what I need are woodcraft risers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JZH Posted February 13, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted February 13, 2017 I used VFR1200 triples, which have a 35mm offset (RC51/929 triples have a 30mm offset, RC36 triples have a 40mm offset), so YMMV. In theory, then, I should have slightly more clearance than someone using 30mm offset triples. The clearance issues I had were mainly with the fairing bracket, both at the base (where it mounts to the frame) and in the middle (because of the forks' larger width and greater tube diameter). The only other interference was with the plastic grille that clips onto the front of the radiator--once I removed that, the fork tubes cleared the radiator itself. I can lock the steering in both directions, so I think that's as much steering lock as I need/can get. Clip-ons were a difficult issue to solve. I tried OEM, Helis, Tommasellis and finally, ABM Multiclip Touring clip-ons. I think there is a Chinese version of the same thing out there for less than I paid, but this was a pretty good deal for German aftermarket clip-ons. I wasn't exactly surprised about the difficulty in getting something to fit, as I went through a similar experience trying to fit ConvertiBars to the bike's 41mm VTR1000F forks--no way, Josè... Woodcrafts are almost as expensive here as the ABMs were, but they're probably cheaper in the 'States. Ciao, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer sfdownhill Posted February 14, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted February 14, 2017 Hey VFRGO - if you're still looking for RC51 front end components I've got a very nice pair of RC51 SP1 forks and a set of SP1 triple clamps that I haven't gotten around to using. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheStig Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 On 2/12/2017 at 8:44 AM, Rice said: Hey Stig. What did you use for handlebars? I got Renthal fat bar on some risers and it hits the bodywork. I'm also not in love with the angle of the grips. Will probably need clip-ons, but don't know which to choose. I used convertibars, as they allowed for any positioning I'd want. I only had to raise the oil cooler a little. I can't remember what I did but it wasn't rocket science. There's pictures on my thread which may help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jock3 Posted March 24, 2017 Share Posted March 24, 2017 Hi! New to he forum and loving it so far. Been following this thread and this might a stupid question, but cant you just use the old triple clambs/ yokes from the Vfr and mill the holes bigger to make a bigger shock fit? Best regards jocke Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer sfdownhill Posted March 24, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted March 24, 2017 Welcome Jock3 - you'll find a ton of great folks on this site, along with an extremely deep knowledge base and a virtual library of projects detailed in threads. Use the site's search function to find existing threads that might answer a question before you start a new thread. I've found a lot of benefit from reading old threads about things I want to do to or learn about my VFR. Almost any good idea you can think of relating to VFRs has been covered, along with some rather marginal ones. Have fun! In answer to your question about the RC51 fork conversion, the RC51 forks are 50mm in diameter at the top triple clamp, and 54mm in diameter at the bottom triple clamp. Stock VFR fork tubes - measured at the triple clamp - are 41mm [early models through 2001 in the US] or 43mm [2002-2009 and 2014-present VFR800s], so boring out the triple clamps to fit 50mm/54mm fork tubes would leave little or no material to clamp around the forks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jock3 Posted March 24, 2017 Share Posted March 24, 2017 Thank you for the clarification ?? And a big thanks for the welcome Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.