Welcome to VFRDiscussion

Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to contribute to this site by submitting your own content or replying to existing content. You'll be able to customize your profile, receive reputation points as a reward for submitting content, while also communicating with other members via your own private inbox, plus much more! This message will be removed once you have signed in.

dozyproductions

San Diego 98 vfr800 restoration

140 posts in this topic
2 hours ago, RVFR said:

Definitely won't start with 8.6 V  They're trouble at 12v.  But looking good from here. 

 

Oh yeah, didn't catch that first time around!

Should still run the fuel pump?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
45 minutes ago, deltaboxii said:

I went through the same crap with painters on my custom Triumph Thruxton 900.  All I wanted was a white stripe down the front fender to match the tank and seat cowl.  You would have thought I would have asked for the painter to paint the Cistene Chapel.  After the first painter looked like he took a white out pen to do the pinstriping, I took it to a "professional".  Six months went by and then after it was merely breathed on some paint flaked off. 

 

Painters and engine builders.  Beware.  Find a good one and stick with them!


Wow, now that's one mind numbing and angering story and sorry you had to go through it. It's a wonder how these guys still stay in business. What were the type of excuses he was giving you? My new painter finished within 3 days and told me that the original painter used low quality paint. It was still of a puddy like consistency and there were multiple runs that I didn't catch. I've learned there are some certain steps to do and look out for. 

1. make sure he has a shop. than there's, presumably, some pressure to turn out good work to pay the rent.
2. look at the work he's working on or has drying/displayed at the shop
3.make sure he takes his work and YOU seriously

4. ask what type of brand and what quality of paint and clear are for the price you'll be paying. 
5. check on yelp/google reviews and see any feedback on forums/facebook
6. dont pay in advance
 

3 hours ago, KevCarver said:

The obvious things are the kill switch and the tip over sensor. Just double check they are on and upright. It's been known to happen, and the stupid tip over sensor had me stymied for a weekend recently.

The tank does look fantastic though! And the wheels and Wolf exhaust...

 

2 hours ago, RVFR said:

Definitely won't start with 8.6 V  They're trouble at 12v.  But looking good from here. 


Before cycle gear closes, I'll call them to see if the charge has actually held and increased to bump up that voltage. If it's a nein than it's time to a buy a new battery. Literally every other electric thing has been checked and every connection loved with some dielectric grease. The battery SHOULD be it... the bike kind of turned over for a second a couple of times sporadically. Once the battery is taken care of and the bike starting, the rear brake spring is received and installed than there isn't anything, atm, that I can tell that's really stopping me from putting on the plastics.

Another unknown problem that needs to be tackled is the throttle return function. Can still turn the throttle, it just doesn't come back on its own. Off the handle bar, it works.
Hypothesis: the powder coated handle bar has made it just thick enough to where the mechanism, on the handle bar, is getting stuck.


Check out the difference with the previous color and now. Not like you can really tell with the lighting difference but tada! 

abrote.jpg
2h65ykg.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just painted my 02 in 2 days ,paint match silver was a 2011 dodge ram colour mix. A little buffing looks like glass,it is all in prep and material used .

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah if there isn't anything to repair and the surface isn't too bad then you're fine. Good paint, decent gun and a clean enough area should do the trick. The paint process itself took 30 minutes max haha. A dirty area just means you have a lot of wetsanding and polishing to do. God, it'd be great to have a garage again and to gerry rig a booth. Post some pics if you can!

Update on battery. It's dead. The whole return process has already started so that's always a plus. In the meantime, anyone recommend a cheap battery? A friend is suggesting putting the tail between the legs and going to walmart. Supposedly o reily's, near my house, has moto batteries too. Will have to find a new one. 

 Any ideas on the accelerator? Sand down the pc? grease it up? curse loud enough? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

SHADILAY MY FRIENDS. 

2my1zjs.jpg
14wrp0j.jpg
2ij5cat.jpg
2rfygqg.jpg

What still needs to be done

-fix the sticking problem with the trottle. DOES ANYONE KNOW WHAT I CAN DO FOR THAT? The bike isn't rideable till that can be fixed. Really don't want to sand down nice PC parts but it seems that the new handle bar is just too thick for it too fit. (wish I heard that from my ladies) 

-fix the rear lock that holds the rear part of the seat. It doesn't want to fully engage. Hearing a click but no cigar. Spring is bad? The wire is bad? It's installed wrong? We'll see but this comes to the next issue
-fix the left rear peg lock. It merely doesn't want to turn. Admittedly I haven't sprayed any wd-40 on it. I suspect that powder coating it might have affected it from the back side. Will see. 

-get some nuts for the damn bolts for that damn tip position sensor in the front. 
-get some screws for the voltmeter and the switch for it.

-polish the front headlight and the newly painted chain guard. The old painter was going to "fix"/ aka polish my last pretty good attempt to paint the guard and instead fracked it pretty well with crappy primer.
-install front fairing, rest of the dash and mirrors. 



Really excited because this color POPS; way more in person than it ever can in the pictures. The Honcati level has been achieved. This is definitely upper middle class status ;) 

3 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Today was spent getting getting some of the last nuts and bolts that were needed. Most of the stuff will be done tomorrow with the aim of getting it running. The main thing holding me back is the battery. The shorai lithium battery all of a sudden became 'toast' and it doesn't make sense to return it for %50 off rebate at this date and time. I bought an oem 'replacement' for less than $30 (vs. $80 at o'reilys)  and it should be coming tomorrow. 

Today

-
secured the tip sensor
-bought the m.00000000002 screws for the voltmeter ;) 
-fix the rear lock that secures the backside of the seat
-fixed the stuck accelerator. It ended up being the powder coat. If anyone want some links for what it could of been then here are some:

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/70388-throttle-cables/
http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/archive/index.php/t-1145459.html
http://www.hondashadow.net/forum/72-technical-discussion/140976-aftermarket-bars-causing-throttle-issue-3.html

Tomorrow

-Install the front fairing. 
-figure out if the voltmeter is working. The previous screws were rusted. The new ones should be a little bit more conductive.
-fix the rear helmet lock. (wd-40 it today. going to let it sit over night) 
-properly install the front dash. The problem is that the rubber stops that provide shock resistance are missing for 2 of the 3 posts. Fortunately there's some old hoses. Going to cut some pieces at the right length and use those pieces instead. 
-install the chain guard. Really want to wet sand it from 2000 - 2500 - 3000 and then buff (if I can... hence 3000 grit). It's way too shiny now and after a good sanding and buff, the piece should be less conspicuous. 

- most importantly, get the damn thing running. when the battery was reading 8.67 volts, the bike would semi turn over even if the fuel pump wasn't exactly prepping. fingers crossed tomorrow. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looking awesome! Its' so nearly there and is going to look superb once all in one piece.

 

I had the same problem with the PC on the handlebar, although it still sticks a little on the bar end as I fitted the grip a little too far to the right. I used a kitchen knife to scrape the powder off.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

very nice  Saddle

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Got the new battery. 
Got the front fairing in place.
Repainting and clearing the left side mirror stock base

But, the same problem is persisting. The fuel pump problem still persists. Battery reads at 12.24V. I can turn the key, all the lights go on, the bike kicks but doesn't turn over all the way. This time around I have the tip sensor installed properly, and everything seems to be in order. When I turn the key, I don't get any prime whine. Really don't want to pay $40 for a tow and $100 for a shop to tell me the pump is dead but I'm getting to that point where that option is getting more appealing. Will check again to see if the sensor is installed correctly and if power is actually getting to the pump etc. 

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's pretty easy to tilt the tank and check your voltage at your fuel pump. You should see battery voltage during prime and cranking. This'll narrow the problem to inside the tank or to the bike.

 

You can always jump 12 v and ground to the pump and hear it run.

 

I'd also load test the fuel pump wires with a headlight or something similar. That'll expose any pesky voltage drops.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks fellas. Going to get started

Edit: can you tell me a bit about jumping the pump and how I'd go about that? First, the blue connector. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

At the ignition turned, I'm reading 4.98v at the connectors of the blue connection under the fuel tank. Dumb question but where does it need to be? Same as everywhere else and at 12.4 ish? There was a wiring diagram posted a couple pages back... Have to be honest, I'm going to have to google just to figure out how to read it. Can it be that if something benign is disconnected, the fuel pump could just not prime? 

edit: Not going to lie, after watching some videos, I haven't properly checked the fuel pump relay nor can I (don't have the extra jumper cables). 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm sure you should be seeing 12-odd volts at the fuel pump; the whole bike is designed to operate at that level. It would pay to check back through the connectors that feed to the pump and verify you get 12 at all of them, that should help isolate where the fault is. May be as simple as a dirty connector causing increased resistance/decreased voltage. You can also check the voltage (if any) between the green wire at the fuel pump and the battery negative, should be 0 or near offer, but higher would indicate a poor ground connection downstream from the pump e.g. at the earth connector to the frame or the battery negative to the frame.

 

As I read it backwards from the pump:

1. Fuel cut relay Black/white input, brown output

2. Engine stop relay Black/pink input, black/white output

3. Fuse B red/white input, black/pink output

 

You should have about 12v at each of the above points, with the negative meter lead clipped to the battery negative or chassis.

 

Hope that helps. I'm a bit of an electrical noob myself but had to educate myself to sort my ST1100 ignition system.

 

 

VFR Wiring Layers hires full (2).png

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Okay, you are checking the brown and green wires, right? The one with blue wiring is the fuel tank sending unit.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Terry

At the moment I know that the blue connector, I presume, that goes to the fuel pump is showing <5v. Connector looked clean enough to me. Unfortunately all I did was blow in to it and slab some of that dialectic grease in the connection. 

And when we're talking about checking the wires are we talking about, when disconnecting the relay's and such, connecting the leads from the voltmeter to the leads to the connector? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My version of checking is to look for the voltage between the live connector and the ground. So in the case of your fuel pump connector, you have a brown wire which is live/positive, and the green wire which connects (or should connect) to the earth/chassis/battery negative.

 

If you only see 5V at the pump connector terminals this could be due to a poor connection on the positive side (upstream) or the negative/earth side (downstream). If you move the negative probe to the battery post/chassis ground and see 12v, then the fault is on the earth side; if it still shows 5v then the problem is on the positive side.

 

Then go back a step to the fuel cut relay and try there on black/white wire vs ground, if you see 12v there then the problem lies between the FCR and the fuel pump connector. If you still see 5V at the fuel cut relay then keep going back to the engine stop relay and repeat. No wire cutting is needed at this point.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Check that the earths haven't been compromised by powdercoating - I had no return path for the starter motor until I removed some of the powder from the frame.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's a good methodology. Will go 'down stream today', especially in the better light, and check again. A shout out to SCguy in helping me out last night in trying to find the problem. We determined it wasn't the pump, but through my amateur hour ;) , couldn't determine which relay it was. The powder coating is definitely one of the constants that have been changed, ground wise, so will make sure that's a detail that isn't missed. Thanks fellas 
 

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

FWIW  since I have my tank off,  went out and checked the voltage at the plug.. Yep,  you should see 12v for sure...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Atm
Fuel pump plug: positive .1v / negative 0v
Blue plug next to fuel pump pluge: positive 0v/ negative 5v
Fuel cut relay: .1v all around the board
Engine cut relay: 
 red/orange - .38v,        black/white opposite: battery voltage
 purple(pink)/black - 0v, black/white opposite: .1v

Fuse B: battery voltage

While I was at it, I removed paint off of the ground on the fuel pump plug so that was good. 

Where do I go next? 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Okay, your black/pink at the engine stop relay should be a direct connection from fuse B. You should have battery voltage. Check both sides of Fuse B one more time

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So you have voltage at the fuse, but not at the other end of the wire at the engine stop relay? Try to follow the wiring, look for connectors, corrosion, etc

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Question before I go out in the lot in the 90+ weather ;) . Is there any obvious ground spots on the rear subframe or battery box that I would of missed? Both of those surfaces were either painted or powder coated. I don't remember any. I've looked at corrosion, connectors and fuses just now and it all looked good. Will take another peak.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now