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dozyproductions

San Diego 98 vfr800 restoration

140 posts in this topic

Tap all the threads that have been coated - you risk knackering the threads/snapping the bolts otherwise.

 

Replacement bolts for a you're missing can be had off ebay etc - just look up what sizes you need via the IPCs - perhaps this is an opportunity to get stainless ones too? :wink:

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They should be M6.  I don't think Heli ever did something retarded like fit SAE bolts on a part for a Japanese bike.

 

Ciao,

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Yup, they're old school heli bars so I got me some M6 SS bolts! Shiny on black is so legit. Thanks y'all. Got a check from rustoleum for the turn signal their clear coat kind of fubard. Good customer service for even doing that! But another fail either on their advise or my luck.  DONT spray rustoleum satin can clear coat on top of gloss clear coat! It only kind of works haha. 

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Today: Put the exhaust, exhaust tray and battery box in. Frustrating as hell though because even though I could of sworn I did the measurements right from the oem clamps, my new ones were way too big. With a little measuring tape is telling me that the smaller tubes' clamps are roughly 1.8" and the big clamp is resting at 2.40" ish. Since I'm not that great at this, what would that mean with what I need to buy? 

2zhnq6h.jpg

Just in case you all would like to see how the Wolf exhaust tray looks like.
jghzbm.jpg

2i0dlbd.jpg


Later: Dropping off my new tanks stickers to the painter. Will work on the dash welding at one point. My current solder gun isn't strong enough to make a difference. 

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Hey guys. My worked called me again to travel abroad and I just got back this weekend. Did some small work and I FINALLY........ FINALLY FINALLY FINALLY found some universal exhaust clamps. Unless I'm the biggest idiot in the world, I wasn't able to find shnee for ages. All the the clamps that 'should of worked' from online sources didn't. Public transportation in San Diego is horrible so going to one store can sometimes mean an entire day trip. 

Okay, I'll have more pictures up but here is what I have in the mean time. I don't know if you guys know who delboy is on youtube but he's an aussie DIY over all good dude. He's actually answered some of my questions. I had some tabs broken on the back of the dash and the plastic epoxy, after a month of drying, didn't hold up what so ever. Well I decided to do a little unflattering plastic welding a la Del over here: 



Before:
k0r5zo.jpg


After!:
qxp9jk.jpg
23to7io.jpg
Needless to say my welds aren't reinforced (yet) and they are much uglier but they are STRONGER substantially more than the epoxy. They don't even come close to giving way. 


Question: I don't want to keep on spending money on a bike I NEED to sell quick now but what do you guys think about "universal" brake/clutch master cylinders? Mine look a bit buggered while everything else around them look great. what do you think?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Black-Right-7-8-22mm-Motorcycle-Front-Brake-Clutch-Master-Cylinder-For-Honda-CB400-1992-93/32267602819.html?spm=2114.13010208.99999999.264.0FIdYl

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1 hour ago, dozyproductions said:

Hey guys. My worked called me again to travel abroad and I just got back this weekend. Did some small work and I FINALLY........ FINALLY FINALLY FINALLY found some universal exhaust clamps. Unless I'm the biggest idiot in the world, I wasn't able to find shnee for ages. All the the clamps that 'should of worked' from online sources didn't. Public transportation in San Diego is horrible so going to one store can sometimes mean an entire day trip. 

Okay, I'll have more pictures up but here is what I have in the mean time. I don't know if you guys know who delboy is on youtube but he's an aussie DIY over all good dude. He's actually answered some of my questions. I had some tabs broken on the back of the dash and the plastic epoxy, after a month of drying, didn't hold up what so ever. Well I decided to do a little unflattering plastic welding a la Del over here: 



Before:
k0r5zo.jpg


After!:
qxp9jk.jpg
23to7io.jpg
Needless to say my welds aren't reinforced (yet) and they are much uglier but they are STRONGER substantially more than the epoxy. They don't even come close to giving way. 


Question: I don't want to keep on spending money on a bike I NEED to sell quick now but what do you guys think about "universal" brake/clutch master cylinders? Mine look a bit buggered while everything else around them look great. what do you think?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Black-Right-7-8-22mm-Motorcycle-Front-Brake-Clutch-Master-Cylinder-For-Honda-CB400-1992-93/32267602819.html?spm=2114.13010208.99999999.264.0FIdYl

I found Delboy's garage a while ago and coincidentally it was for plastic welding! Although I think he's based in England but maybe he's Australian. He's been going for about 4 years and he's done some pretty good videos over the years. Great for the shade tree mechanic as he tries to use ordinary tools rather than the super high dollar specialty tools, which is great for those on a budget.

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I figured australian because he sounds like my mate's dad... but as some cali yokel, all of them can sound like some form of australiana! 

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Selling?!?!?!?!?!?!?! :unsure:

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You are doing a great job!

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19 hours ago, Duc2V4 said:

I found Delboy's garage a while ago and coincidentally it was for plastic welding! Although I think he's based in England but maybe he's Australian. He's been going for about 4 years and he's done some pretty good videos over the years. Great for the shade tree mechanic as he tries to use ordinary tools rather than the super high dollar specialty tools, which is great for those on a budget.

 

Definitely English.

 

I've done a lot of plastic welding on fairings (wifey threw her bike at the tarmac on numerous occasions so I had a LOT to practice on.)

 

This is the top fairing on my Gen 6. where it slid along the tarmac it ground it away. As you can see it has built up quite nicely using an old soldering iron and cable ties. Cable ties are easiest to handle but I have used strips cut from an old fairing.

 

 

Fairing Welding 2.jpg

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1 hour ago, Woodie said:

 

Definitely English.

 

I've done a lot of plastic welding on fairings (wifey threw her bike at the tarmac on numerous occasions so I had a LOT to practice on.)

 

This is the top fairing on my Gen 6. where it slid along the tarmac it ground it away. As you can see it has built up quite nicely using an old soldering iron and cable ties. Cable ties are easiest to handle but I have used strips cut from an old fairing.

 

 

Fairing Welding 2.jpg

I figured he was English too but I don't know enough about him to say he's not an Aussie transplant. :smile: I like his videos and he seems like a down to earth guy, even though he rides Harley :wink:

 

That's quite a bit of work there on that body panel. How many zip ties were used to make that mend? 

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1 hour ago, Duc2V4 said:

I figured he was English too but I don't know enough about him to say he's not an Aussie transplant. :smile: I like his videos and he seems like a down to earth guy, even though he rides Harley :wink:

 

That's quite a bit of work there on that body panel. How many zip ties were used to make that mend? 

 

Just two but they were quite big Zip ties. . it's a close up of a section about 6" long.

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With some "grinding" + sanding and voila! Strong bonds and almost just like new! 

Any hooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo

2mnehs3.jpg
2lxch3l.jpg

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A couple of things I need to ask. Does anyone have the part number to the spring that attaches to the rear brake sensor? Also, I can't get my key out of the gas tank lock. I had it on when I took the cap off, and when I' installing it, I can't get the fucking thing off. Also, do you guys know which hose goes where to the gas tank? I just want to confirm which is which. Anyways, as soon as I can get some gas and coolant, I'm going to start this bitch!!!!!!!

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Here's a screen shot of the parts fiche for the rear brake assembly as I'm not sure what you mean by "sensor". As far as your key, possibly some WD-40 or other lubricant might work. Check with a locksmith, they might have something more appropriate for this purpose.

 

Regarding the fuel lines, have you looked at the Honda Service Manual? I think the info is in there. Otherwise, the parts fiche might be helpful/ That's about as far as I can come up with, well, other than getting one of us to take photos of their 5 Gen lines.

 

 

Screen Shot 2017-04-06 at 3.05.42 PM 2.png

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Thanks man. For whatever reason, I couldn't find the diagram. I got some graphite on the lock but the thing is still giving me a hard time. Will look in to that. 

Put 1.5 gallons in to the tank. The bike wants to turn but not all the way. At first it gave me just one blip and sound from the fuel pump. Gave her a couple of seconds and nown I'm to the current problem. Tried turning the thing on till the lithium battery started to get drained to its last leg. No fuel is leaking, I'm pretty sure the hoses are connected in the right place and every electric connector, that needs connecting, is there... any input? 

Perhaps to help with helping me? ;D 
epktxv.jpg
95zz9e.jpg
mkvxnd.jpg


This is how she sits:

315n8dh.jpg
abrote.jpg

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Second pic is the tip over sensor. There is an arrow molded into the plastic. Point it up! It should say on it which way and bolt onto the front of the fairing stay. 

Plastic 3 wire white connectors are turn signals. 

Black wire is air temp sensor. 

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Thanks man. Was trying to figure out if any of those was helping my bike from not starting. Perhaps from 4 months of inactivity it doesn't want to start up? 

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For sure the tip over switch will. But it won't allow your fuel pump to prime at startup if it's not properly oriented. If you get the pump priming and it cranks it could just be the lack of use. I've had that happen on mine. Usually have to just crank it until it finally fires. 

I just took a closer look and that three wire black connector is headlight. Right bulb by the looks of things. Left and left signal look to he hanging down on the side. 

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With the key, try pushing the cap down to lock and lightly turning the key?

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The lock is working a little better now. I put some graphite lubricant around the lock area and it's as good as new. I'm going to go and recharge the battery and then bolt up the tip over switch properly. Hopefully this will fix the situation. Really appreciate the help on that Kev.


In other news, I had it with my painter. That tank had some pretty noticeable blemishes. When I took it back to him I dented and scratched it up something good so he would be charging me $250. That's a fair price but for a job that took him over 3 months to do and with an incorrect and non stock color; I no longer have any faith in him to give me a decent product back. I'm picking up the rest of the fairings and tank tomorrow and bringing it to another shop (SBK paint) and they'll finish the entire thing, with OEM color paint, for $500 and a glass finish. The original painter is giving me shit about how I've put him in a bad spot and how I'm (sarcasm) a 'solid guy'. It's like a bad break up. I'm moving to Poland in a month and I thought I would have over 2 months of decent riding before selling this bike but, nope. I wont be able to ride the bike and will barely be able to sell the thing before leaving. The amount of stress this guy has given me is unreal. The new painter said he'll finish all of it within less than a half a week because he's a real biker and, after hearing my story, he said he'll do anything to help a brother out. I've seen his work and it's simply amazing with a usual short turn around time as it is. 

Literally am smoking hookah, cigarettes, and the other stuff just to keep my anxiety down. Use my situation as a warning for anything you might plan in the future. Spend the extra 200-300 dollars on some one who isn't just 'some guy' that will do a good job and isn't made out of excuses. This blog wouldn't have taken so long if I didn't skimp out in the first place. 

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Got the new paint job done and it was done with the original oem color. wow, just loving the it. Any of you in the SD area, hit up David at SBK paint. He let me sit in the booth with him it was just really cool to see the process again. 

Anyhoo, now that the battery has been charged, 1.5 gallons of gas has been put in, dielectric grease has been put in all the connections, fuses have been checked, everything has been put in, tip sensor upright; the bike doesn't start. Fuel pump doesn't prime and I'm not getting any clicking from any relays or nothing. I read some threads from this forum with this very issue and I've done most of the steps that I could do. Beyond replacing fuses and relays, it's been a mystery. 

Checked the battery with the voltmeter. 8.67 reading. Going to cycle gear to get it charged. Hoping for the best, expecting the worse kind of thing. 

here as she sits.

2h65ykg.jpg
 

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The obvious things are the kill switch and the tip over sensor. Just double check they are on and upright. It's been known to happen, and the stupid tip over sensor had me stymied for a weekend recently.

The tank does look fantastic though! And the wheels and Wolf exhaust...

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Definitely won't start with 8.6 V  They're trouble at 12v.  But looking good from here. 

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On 4/7/2017 at 4:07 PM, dozyproductions said:

The lock is working a little better now. I put some graphite lubricant around the lock area and it's as good as new. I'm going to go and recharge the battery and then bolt up the tip over switch properly. Hopefully this will fix the situation. Really appreciate the help on that Kev.


In other news, I had it with my painter. That tank had some pretty noticeable blemishes. When I took it back to him I dented and scratched it up something good so he would be charging me $250. That's a fair price but for a job that took him over 3 months to do and with an incorrect and non stock color; I no longer have any faith in him to give me a decent product back. I'm picking up the rest of the fairings and tank tomorrow and bringing it to another shop (SBK paint) and they'll finish the entire thing, with OEM color paint, for $500 and a glass finish. The original painter is giving me shit about how I've put him in a bad spot and how I'm (sarcasm) a 'solid guy'. It's like a bad break up. I'm moving to Poland in a month and I thought I would have over 2 months of decent riding before selling this bike but, nope. I wont be able to ride the bike and will barely be able to sell the thing before leaving. The amount of stress this guy has given me is unreal. The new painter said he'll finish all of it within less than a half a week because he's a real biker and, after hearing my story, he said he'll do anything to help a brother out. I've seen his work and it's simply amazing with a usual short turn around time as it is. 

Literally am smoking hookah, cigarettes, and the other stuff just to keep my anxiety down. Use my situation as a warning for anything you might plan in the future. Spend the extra 200-300 dollars on some one who isn't just 'some guy' that will do a good job and isn't made out of excuses. This blog wouldn't have taken so long if I didn't skimp out in the first place. 

I went through the same crap with painters on my custom Triumph Thruxton 900.  All I wanted was a white stripe down the front fender to match the tank and seat cowl.  You would have thought I would have asked for the painter to paint the Cistene Chapel.  After the first painter looked like he took a white out pen to do the pinstriping, I took it to a "professional".  Six months went by and then after it was merely breathed on some paint flaked off. 

 

Painters and engine builders.  Beware.  Find a good one and stick with them!

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