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10 Dollar Quickshifter


Jibbles

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Hi Guys

yes I know, Jibbles you tight bastard, just fork out for the honda OEM

quickshifter... ?

I was going to buy the honda one but after hearing a few peoples complaints about the change 

in foot position to avoid the shifter I figured I would try do my own.

excuse the 5 minute workmanship, but i didnt have much hope for it.

A stainless bolt with a hole through the end, tig a little bracket onto one of the fairing brackets, add a 12 volt brake light switch and spring and walla!

10 dollar quickshifter.

verdict - works really good.

not happy with mr hondas delay times but I will live with it.

if I can be bothered I will wire it into the power commander but for now its just fun 

banging up through the gears ?

IMG_1024.JPG

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oh for anyone reading who is not aware- there is a blue plug on the left hand side of the bike next to the 02 plug that is for the OEM quickshifter.

Honda even gives you a plug!

if you need the wiring pins let me know and I will take a pic. (the plug doesnt have them) there is a mob in the states who supplies them if your like me and like keeping wiring tidy

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  • 5 weeks later...

Hey Jibbles,

 

IMO, simple, cheap, and effective = 3x Win!

 

I'd like to try to rig a set up like yours too.  A couple of thoughts/questions if/when you have time:

 

Is the switch default position open/off and it's momentary closed/on when the plunger is pulled?  Is that how all the 12v brake switches are?  So, if worse comes to worst and the switch malfunctions, the VFR would still function normally if we simply ripped the switch free or cut the wires?

 

Could the delay times you mentioned be influenced by slop or play in the linkage - i.e. the spring constant and the tautness of the assembly?

 

How sturdy/heavy duty is your switch?  The couple of switches I've seen on Ebay, Amazon, and Aliexpress look like they all are plastic bodied and not very water/weatherproof?  Ditto for the spring - stainless/rustproof?  Any noticeable wear where the spring connects to the switch or the stainless bolt (on the switch plunger, or the spring wire, or the bolt)?

 

Thanks for ingenuity and your time!

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Hi there samuel

 

thanks for the compliments!

Ill be dead honest with you mate.

after a few wet rides, the brake switch buggered up and proceeded to make its own mind up about when to cut the ignition.

I disconnected it half way down a range and HAAAAAAAAATED the stock gearchange.

it really sucks a big one.

so, What I am on the lookout for is whats called a rope pull switch, one thats Ip67. and is nice and compact.

 

so, first things first- the brake switch is normally open. 

ECU recieves a signal from the switch when it closes to cut the ignition momentarily.

the delay time is based on what gear your in.

 honda made the delays quite long, must have been playing it safe. - it only becomes apparent at full revs.

how often are you at full revs, never. so trust me, its managable.

 

dont get caught up in mechanical wear of springs & linkages etc, theres bigger fish to fry ?

 

 

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  • Member Contributer

I did a cursory search and found nothing suitable.  Most IP67 switches are rockers, toggles, pushbuttons.  Even slide and rotary.  Nothing pull or push-pull.

 

There often is more than one way to skin the waterproof cat.  I wonder if a magnetic reed switch (good one made for high vibration environments) and a magnet could somehow solve the problem.

 

 

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Why not simply weatherproof the brake switch? It works well enough in its usual application... find a way to protect it, or install it in a more normal orientation with a revised form of activation.

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yep sebspeed,

 

you hit the nail on the head.

mounting becomes the only fickle part.

the bonus of a brake switch intended for front master cylinders is that it hasnt got the transition between on and off to contend with.

but hey, the concept is proven - a basic switch into the stock ecu

works well, provided its good quality or at the least, sealed.

 

10 dollar lesson ?

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