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Please help: 1200DCT won't start. Clicking noise when pressing starter


Falcon1220

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I am in need of help. A normal day of riding turned bad. Drove for 50km and had to stop for gas. Filled up and ready to go. Then the bike just won't start. Just making  weird clicking noise from under the seat. Had to be trucked back home. 
So I made a short video with the seat removed. The clicking happens when I press the starter. Sounds like a arching or some electrical problem.

Any help/ suggestions appreciated. (I hope the video opens)

 

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_PXETDt3BnM

 

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Most likely cause: Your battery has had it. 

 

The clicking sound is the starter relay. It should click once

 

If it clicks repeatedly, your battery does not supply enough current to keep it closed hence no juice going to the starter motor.

 

NB: There can be a whole host of things wrong with your charging system but the battery is most likely the single cause. They can die with no warning at all.

 

My last one worked flawlessly (or so it seemed) on a Friday evening and was dead on Sunday morning. The bike just stood in a warm garage in between. :huh::pissed:

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Thanks

I placed the battery on jump start and try to start. Start first time. Removed the charger. Try to start. Same clicking. Connect the charger again and it fires up.

So battery is dead.

 

Now, where is the best deals on batteries?

 

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3 minutes ago, Falcon1220 said:

Thanks

I placed the battery on jump start and try to start. Start first time. Removed the charger. Try to start. Same clicking. Connect the charger again and it fires up.

So battery is dead.

 

Now, where is the best deals on batteries?

 

https://www.batterystuff.com/batteries/motorcycle/honda/2012/1200cc-vfr1200f/

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3 minutes ago, Falcon1220 said:

Now, where is the best deals on batteries

 

That's what I'd like to know !

 

If you're feeling brave, you may consider a different model. I use a Yuasa YTX9 in my 6G instead of the YTZ12 Mr. Honda specs. Costs one third and works just fine as long as you don't leave the bike out in the cold for a month between starts. 

 

The 1200 probably needs a bit more oomph, though.

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15 minutes ago, RC36Rider said:

 

That's what I'd like to know !

 

If you're feeling brave, you may consider a different model. I use a Yuasa YTX9 in my 6G instead of the YTZ12 Mr. Honda specs. Costs one third and works just fine as long as you don't leave the bike out in the cold for a month between starts. 

 

The 1200 probably needs a bit more oomph, though.

Yep, I am looking and comparing other brands. The Yuasa YTZ14S that is on the 1200 is not cheap.

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To be on the safe side, check your voltage across the battery connectors at idle and at 5000 rpm to make sure the charging system works as it should but it's likely OK. 

 

If memory serves, anything less than 13.7 won't charge properly, anything more than 14.7 will ultimately cook the battery and is evidence that something else is wrong.

 

Do check the service manual for exact specs. My memory is not what it used to be. 

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10 minutes ago, RC36Rider said:

To be on the safe side, check your voltage across the battery connectors at idle and at 5000 rpm to make sure the charging system works as it should but it's likely OK. 

 

If memory serves, anything less than 13.7 won't charge properly, anything more than 14.7 will ultimately cook the battery and is evidence that something else is wrong.

 

Do check the service manual for exact specs. My memory is not what it used to be. 

Should do that with the new battery installed or on the old one?

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I went with a new Yussa when I replaced the battery in my 1200.  I got 6 years out of it and the battery is actually still fine.  My dad cheaps out and buys $50 batteries, but he ends up replacing them every other year.  I figure a better battery is still cheaper than a tow.  Old Yussa battery will go in the track bike until it gives up the ghost or another bike needs a new battery...

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23 minutes ago, Falcon1220 said:

Should do that with the new battery installed or on the old one?

 

It's just a brief test so no harm should come to your new battery even if your voltage is too high but you can do it with the old one as long as it can keep the bike running. 

 

NB: I was overly cautious, Honda specs 15.5 V max. I don't think my 6G goes anywhere near that much, though. 

 

You should also put the lights on high beam when measuring.

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19 minutes ago, crakerjac said:

went with a new Yussa when I replaced the battery in my 1200.

 

Apples to apples. I use a genuine Yuasa, just a different model.

 

I don't trust unknown brands either. 

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YTX9-BS but it's likely not strong enough for the 1200. Check the CCA rating. 

 

Mine's a 800 and that battery is what Honda put in the RC45 so I knew it would most probably crank the engine and power the EFI OK. 

 

I'm not sure they have a cheaper model that's suitable for the big lump.

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3 minutes ago, RC36Rider said:

YTX9-BS but it's likely not strong enough for the 1200. Check the CCA rating. 

 

Mine's a 800 and that battery is what Honda put in the RC45 so I knew it would most probably crank the engine and power the EFI OK. 

 

I'm not sure they have a cheaper model that's suitable for the big lump.

thanks

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They make a TTZ14S which is about 25-30% cheaper than the YTZ. Same dimensions, same CCA.

 

I could never find out what is supposed to justify the cost of the YTZ's. Yuasa themselves won't say. 

 

I killed my OEM YTZ12S just like I kill any other battery. By deep discharge due to sheer negligence. :laugh:

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I got my last Yuasa battery from an independent service shop.  He gets them dry, adding the acid at his shop and charging to spec before delivery.  That prevents me getting one that's been sitting for months on the shelf sulfating.   I paid full list for it, but I'm assured of a completely fresh battery.  I swapped out the original YTZ12 at 6 years as an abundance of caution, but like others it was working fine.  They really make a great product. 

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