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Endurance Racing VF500 build.


sportstu

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1 hour ago, Dario1979 said:

 

Hi, tell me what tires you use in your race bike?

 

Pirelli Sport Deamons... There not race tires, far from that...

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7 hours ago, TheDutchy said:

Pirelli Sport Deamons... There not race tires, far from that...

Maybe you should try some of these:

http://www.avonmotorsport.com/historic/motorcycle/am22

http://www.avonmotorsport.com/historic/motorcycle/am23

http://www.avonmotorsport.com/historic/motorcycle/am18---super-venom

 

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1 hour ago, keny said:

Than I have to mix up the AM22 and AM23 to get the right selection of tires for the bike... 16" front wheel just minimizes the selection...

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4 hours ago, TheDutchy said:

Than I have to mix up the AM22 and AM23 to get the right selection of tires for the bike... 16" front wheel just minimizes the selection...

Yes, and I think the AM22 was a front only as the tread was used for road only, and the AM23 a rear only.

And the site says:"The 3 sizes of front tyre designed to compliment the AM23 rear"

120/70VB16 AM22 front and 130/650VB18 AM23 rear and you will have a other lever of grip :smile:

A endurance team in UK did use this combo on a RC24 (130/70VB18 rear, as it got a 3,50 rim) whit great result 

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4 hours ago, keny said:

Yes, and I think the AM22 was a front only as the tread was used for road only, and the AM23 a rear only.

And the site says:"The 3 sizes of front tyre designed to compliment the AM23 rear"

120/70VB16 AM22 front and 130/650VB18 AM23 rear and you will have a other lever of grip :smile:

A endurance team in UK did use this combo on a RC24 (130/70VB18 rear, as it got a 3,50 rim) whit great result 

 

I ran the AM22 (120/70VB16) and the AM23 (130/70VB18) both in the SC (Sprint Compound) on my VF500F race bike.  They are f-ing amazing.  They are also f-ing expensive now.

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Do uou have to run the 16/18 wheels in your series? We can change to 17 and run 160/120 so get a great choice of fantastic race rubber. Every time I go in the store and notice the old rear wheel I'm amazed by how narrow it is compared to modern stuff. You got to respect the guys who race on those skinny things.

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1 hour ago, sportstu said:

Do uou have to run the 16/18 wheels in your series? We can change to 17 and run 160/120 so get a great choice of fantastic race rubber. Every time I go in the store and notice the old rear wheel I'm amazed by how narrow it is compared to modern stuff. You got to respect the guys who race on those skinny things.

 

120 is the rear tire on my VF500.

On my SP2 120 is the front..... :-)

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8 hours ago, sportstu said:

Scary!!

 

They didn't need much tire to work great.  Don't get me wrong, I'll be building a 500 with CBR wheels at some point, but when you didn't know any better...

gallery_6115_2003_58118.jpg

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Some of the video I've seen of the old one make VF500 series is very impressive too, skinny tyres and big lean and slides. Your bike barks nicely too TheDuchy, I hope mine sounds like that. What exhaust configuration are you running?

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Just the stock collector and some open baffles... If not mistaken, they are some old cannisters from a XS500.. Chopped and gutted...

 

As a joke, we bought some aluminum HRC decals and put it on the cannisters.. At at least three racing events. at the paddock people were asking how we obtained these HRC silencers..  :tongue:

 

Don't get me wrong, but with that original collector box, it don't matter what kind of baffle you put on it.. It's just right... If you convert it into a 4 into 1, or either a 4 into 2 it changes the whole powerband of the engine.. To me, it narrows it... The original box was well designed by Honda in my opinion..

 

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Mine is going in for exhausts to be fabricated on the 27th. I'm going for 4-2 with the front and rear banks not linked. The plan is to use the HRC AMA VF750 superbike systems as a guide so we will end up with the tail pipes being asymmetrical in order to get the tube lengths right. I don't know a great deal about exhaust theory but from what I understand it will be the best configuration for power. I'm not too worried about having a big spread through the rev range because we have the close ratio box. Hopefully the system will save a few grams too.

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I went with 2, 2-1 setup as well. Fronts together and rears together. I think this is the way to go as Honda has done it several times with their race V4's. I lost a little down low but the 1000cc makes up for it. Mid is still good with up high being really good. In a race situation, you will likely be living in the upper ranges so you should be good to go. Look forward to seeing it done, you've made quite a project of it. 

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Vid I shot a while ago after reinstalling the charging and starting systems.

Front and rear cylinder banks are independent.

 

 

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Quick uptate as I've been neglecting to post the progress for a while. I'm getting on with loads of the niggly jobs that crop up at this stage. I'm waiting for the shock absorber to arrive so I've taken the swing arm out again to weld some bosses on for my paddock stand bobbins. I've been making brackets for the coils because I don't want half meter HT leads so I'm mounting the new coils close to each cylinder bank. Mounting the new clocks nicely was a ball ache, I'll do a picture of that tomorrow, and I've finally connected the oil pipes to the heads. I struggled to get clearance that I was happy with using compression fittings so I popped down to HEL and had some swaged up. You can't get a parallel splitter so I had to use a Y piece which is not ideal but I think it looks alright. I'm painting up the rear caliper tomorrow and hopfully I'll have it rolling and off the ramp by

the end of the day!!

Image151.thumb.jpg.58b237e052d018979eea197ecf49e5dc.jpg

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I pressed the bush out of the suspension rocker today. It's not a great design to have a bush there clamped up to the cleat so I'm changing it to a needle roller. Luckily it's a 22mm bore so I can fit a 15/22 needle gage in there with a 10/15 inner. Easy modification and I think it will be very worth while.

Image158.thumb.jpg.63a1e063c522e8ddd937e2b84e51f884.jpg

 

Other developments........

The crash bobbins/paddock stand bosses are now welded to the swing arm and I've built it back up to get the bike rolling for it's trip out next week.

Image159.thumb.jpg.6abdcd0a6b6a990853cc587fd5d4d702.jpgImage159.thumb.jpg.6abdcd0a6b6a990853cc587fd5d4d702.jpg

Image160.thumb.jpg.b1753b712e16c50e0888873563d12418.jpgImage160.thumb.jpg.b1753b712e16c50e0888873563d12418.jpg

 

Had a package from China with my shiny new VF750 radiator..........Image156.thumb.jpg.f9bf7860534c347a2b41bb8696471501.jpg

Drilled out the idle adjuster so I coulf fit a longer one that I had lying around. Makes it easier to adjust from the saddle.

Image155.thumb.jpg.21d92e69042c30d9414154ec818f7572.jpg

 

Fitted NC30 clocks.....

Image157.thumb.jpg.18d3d098e60f967305c97801ebde457b.jpg

 

 

 

 

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Things are getting exciting.  Can't wait for a shot of the entire bike.  Nice idea on the extended idle screw, definitely beats burning your hand on the hot valve cover or reaching in there with a glove.   

 

Thank you Sport!

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4 hours ago, jeremyr62 said:

I am reminded of triggers broom yet again. (You will have to be from the UK to get this one).

Had to "google" that one!  Well, the basic frame and the engine are pretty legit vf500f but I hear you on the rest of it. Different "handles and heads" but the core is still a vf500f in spirit. Besides, all the NEWer handles and heads are better than the originals right?

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The needle bearings turned up for the suspension link. I'm really pleased with this mod, it's dead simple to do and it'll be a huge improvement over the standard flexi bush system.

Image162.thumb.jpg.f010fe7d6d3a1dbf11ea09f4f3295473.jpg

Sorry the image is blurred, it was taken on my phone which is a 6310 nokia! One side pushed in with the vice.....

Image163.thumb.jpg.c5544bdaf8ba97a5bf157a4d96e94828.jpg

Then both sides and the centre fitted. Easy.

 

This is my new Ignitech ignition unit. I can't recommend these guys enough. I've had these boxes on a few bikes and they are faultless, tough and best of all you can map your ignition if you want to. You can also set the rev limit, add shift lights and ven a quick shifter. All that for 155 euros delivered. They come loaded with a standard map and an adaptor to lus straight in to your loom.
Image164.thumb.jpg.ca8d17a88cdef6206b57ff73b55fb9a5.jpg

 

I've also got my modified generator cover back from the shop. I did try cutting the centre out of a GSXR one and welding into the VF but the alloy was awful so it made sense to start with the one that is available to convert the NC30 race bikes and then modify it to fit the VF.

Image166.thumb.jpg.7f66fcb0b12d0608e3b41be953006e3a.jpg

Image167.thumb.jpg.bd1537bba5ea7796b1254eb106a880cb.jpg

That's the boss that we welded on to cover the wiring joint, then milled it back. I didn't take the pattern so I got it a bit wrong, it will still work OK but it's a little scrappy which is annoying. The next pic shows why.

Image169.thumb.jpg.66eee3e2977e9c148e277b85f73106af.jpg

You can see that I'm a few degrees out!!

I do have a nice boss to mount the stop for the cable clutch though........

Image170.thumb.jpg.8980d153e523adcf261a1835a32904a8.jpg

 

Finally, I faked up a bracket for some rearsets that I had. I've drilled 3 holes which gives them 3 positions of adjustment. It will work and it's very solid so the pattern has gone off to be laser cut neatly.

Image171.thumb.jpg.28e4a355d8b132040bb682d3889c623e.jpgImage171.thumb.jpg.28e4a355d8b132040bb682d3889c623e.jpg

 

 

 

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