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I was lucky to come across a mint condition Red 2001 with 12k miles. It only had two owners and just got serviced at the dealer. It has Heli Bars, Corbin Gumfighter,Zero Gravity and a Vance and Hines SR2 exhaust.

 

My plan is to spend $2k to unleash all the factory "built-in" power and plus some well proven and reliable  "add-on" power that will not drastically reduce the engine life.

 

Plus another $1k for the good folks at DMR for suspension upgrades.

 

it took me about a month to find and buy this bike, another week to get it registered and tagged and another month to find the parts.

 

The first thing I did was send the Corbin seat back to Corbin to get redone like new. (In the meantime I found a like new OEM seat for $80 on ebay)

 

Here is a breakdown of how I am spending the $2k on unleashing the engine, plus another $1k at DMr for beefing up the suspension  for the added power. (Everything is ordered and on the way)

 

1. $400- Corbin Seat 
2. $150- ECU (Germany)
3. $ 20- OEM Air Box
4. $ 60- K & N Air Filter
5. $500- Staintune (Australia)
6. $350- SS Headers (UK)
7. $300-Power Commander 
8. $ 20- O2 Eliminator
9. $120- HealTech Gear Red
10. $160- RDMOTO shorty 
11. $595- DMr fork kit
12. $420- DMr CBR shock
13. $350- Clutch Porthole
14. $350- Stator / Rectifier
15.  $200- Barnett Clutch Kit
     
First I will modify the OEM air box by cutting away and removing the flapper assembly and install a 2nd Snorkel in its place. (Also unplug the pair valve) My theory is the snorkel is necessary, the flapper is not, so by adding a second snorkel it will add power without compromising the underlying purpose of the airbox design. 
 
Next steps:
1) Remove headers & exhaust
2) Install catless full system
3) Remove ECU
4) Install Euro Spec ECU
5) Install gear indicator
6) Install Power Commamder
7) Load Fuel Map file 
 
Start bike.....
 
8) Install DMr fork kit
9) Install DMr CBR shock 
 
Go for test ride....
 
10) Install Barnett Clutch
11) Install Thurn Motorsport clutch case window
12) Install Thurn upgraded Stator, with Rectifier relocation mount kit.
13) Install Thurn Rear Hub Cover
 
15) Install RDMOTO short reach clutch and brake levers.
 

 

 

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Nov 5 Update:

Now that the headers are installed, the double snorkel (no flapper)air box mod with a fresh K & N filter and adding 3oz Lucus octane boost every fill up. Still waiting on Euro ECU to show up before I do any new fuel mappings. DMr suspension kit has shipped. Also waiting on 2nd engine clutch cover. First job is to switch out the stator with a $50- el cheapie china stator so I can get my OEM over to Gerhard, along with the engine case clutch cover. As far as riding the bike all week, its starting to really open up ??

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That sounds like a very good find and some interesting work you are going to carry out.

 

Best of luck and keep us informed! 

 

Welcome to the site.  :beer:

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Good find :)

 

Neither the snorkel nor flapper is necessary. Check out my Big airbox mod.

YMMV on the exhaust as there are mixed reports about the quality & the sloppy welding, it's NOT a performance exhaust.

 

Have fun with the new toy :)

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Not trying to put a wet blanket on your party, but all that shoud get you around an extra 6HP maximum.

Much better to spend that sort of money on suspension, that will really transform the bike.

6HP will only do so much, a higher corner enrty speed will do a lot more.

I used to spend my time reving crap out of my bike, now I just use the mid range and don't use the brakes as much coming into a corner, come out much quicker.

 

 

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39 minutes ago, Mohawk said:

Good find :)

 

Neither the snorkel nor flapper is necessary. Check out my Big airbox mod.

YMMV on the exhaust as there are mixed reports about the quality & the sloppy welding, it's NOT a performance exhaust.

 

Have fun with the new toy :)

The airbox, flapper and pair valve disconnect is a $20 mod based upon this information which appears to be reliable :

 

http://johnny.chadda.se/pair-and-flapper-mod-with-bonus-snorkel-mod-for-vfr/

 

I "guess-reversed engineered" by looking at the snorkel and the flapper then visualized the air box without the flapper, it appears the snorkel is sized for 50% the airbox airflow, so cutting out the flapper with a dremel tool, then fit up the second snorkel and it should look "factory" (like the flapper was never there) and possibly function the way the airbox was designed before somebody decided to add the flapper. Hopefully the last planned step, the final DynoTech custom tune will tell the truth with actual numbers from the Dyno.

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2 hours ago, VFROZ said:

Not trying to put a wet blanket on your party, but all that shoud get you around an extra 6HP maximum.

Much better to spend that sort of money on suspension, that will really transform the bike.

6HP will only do so much, a higher corner enrty speed will do a lot more.

I used to spend my time reving crap out of my bike, now I just use the mid range and don't use the brakes as much coming into a corner, come out much quicker.

 

 

Good point, I'll do suspension and brakes next and would like your list of suspension and brake mods and costs.

meanwhile back to unleashing factory power mods, what I could do, for a little bit more money, is get the VFR "pre-mod" baselined at the DynoTech shop, then have them install these particular mini-mods and then compare, that might be the "creditable" thing to do, show some numbers for the sake of the VFR forum readers to assist in determining actual cost per added HP, at least for this particular bundle of mini-mods :)

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3 hours ago, Skids said:

That sounds like a very good find and some interesting work you are going to carry out.

 

Best of luck and keep us informed! 

 

Welcome to the site.  :beer:

Thanx ! I'm trying to present possibilities to performance without breaking the bank or having to borrow money to own a motorcycle. Thie entire effort is costing about $6k cash money, I paid $3k for the VFR, $1k at RevZilla for a new Red Shoei, Tourmaster mesh jacket, 2 pairs of gloves and 2 bike covers and the tail bag.  Then another $2k for the mods. I should be able to hang with the big boys, for the most part, not be in debt and be able to get out for about what I spent.

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Whilst you can unleash a modest amount of power with some investment, you'll still run into weight vs power issues so if you want to "hang with the big boys", I think you'd get more bang for the buck by investing in suspension & braking upgrades. The 800 is so driveable that better handling/stopping will reap far better rewards on the twisties than extra bhp.

 

Unless yr talking those long straight roads we see in the movies so often.

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7 hours ago, VFROZ said:

Not trying to put a wet blanket on your party, but all that shoud get you around an extra 6HP maximum.

Much better to spend that sort of money on suspension, that will really transform the bike.

6HP will only do so much, a higher corner enrty speed will do a lot more.

I used to spend my time reving crap out of my bike, now I just use the mid range and don't use the brakes as much coming into a corner, come out much quicker.

 

 

 

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I'm going to have to side with VFROZ, suspension is the number one mod any serious VFR sport rider should do, before any other "performance" mod. A fast and/or powerful uncontrollable bike doesn't get you very far, but a decent powered and fast capable bike that you can control will get you everywhere!

 

All three of my bikes have gone to DMr for upgrades and so far, happy with all three. The ROI for his services has been one of the best I have received on any of the mods I have done to any of the bikes..

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I totally agree and  followed your advice and have submitted a Service Request to Jamie at DMr for a fork kit and a new shock. This adds $1k to the build. So now not only should it look and sound its best, it will also handle better. Thank you this is why this is a great forum :)

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yeah but once you go faster & handle better you will want better brakes. I'm +25hp, -33Kg, all new brakes & suspension, its like a different bike.

 

YMMV

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It's totally agree, can you post what's the right thing to do with the brakes ? I'm thinking 6 disc calipers from a CBR with brembo rotors rotors, EBC pads and SS brake lines, or about $1200- ?

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A brake upgrade usually requires a de-link and replacement of (at least) the fork lowers. VTR1000F Superhawk lowers can be used in place of the VFR, that will enable you to bolt on your choice of 4-piston calipers from a CBR600F4, 954 or SP1/2. You then need to fabricate brackets to mate the VFR mudguard to the forks but that is no big deal, and the wheel/spacers/axle/discs/stanchions/s;prings/dampers etc from the VFR are re-used. Ideally you need a bigger diameter rear mc (eg CBR600F4) to prevent an over-excitable back brake, and you can re-use the dual rear brake lines, mated to a double banjo bolt at the master. EBC HH pads are then the icing on the cake. 

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Ok,  this ought to be fun to watch happen. I'm all ears seeing I'm at the half way point. Next is getting my hands on some unattainable. from that I'll work the air box mod.  Like what the guys have thrown up,  suspension first.  you got that.  Yes,  I can't speak highly enough for Jamie, top notch.   I'd work towards the simple mods. pair and snorkel isn't a big deal, not much if any gains. the euro ECU is another myth I ran into here,  thinking it had a better advance built in. it doesn't.  though if you want to go crazy $$ Rapid bike makes a great set up, but it will cost you.  I'm not sold for the $$ if it's worth it.   Me, I went PC3 and haven't had any regrets.  Have it to do the de,link here this winter when I'm healed up. that's a nice up grade not to sure if the brakes will be better. can't hurt. but I can't stand the linked brake feel,  so it's gota go. speaking of brakes if you do a complete front end swap you can with a bit of fitment install R1, CBR Gsxr brakes.  there's a few here that have done this,  one set up I looked at was the 954s,  But?? again what gains can really be had other than feel??      If you can look at what Mohawk has done,  those wheels are like the holy grail.  All in all you have a great platform, but don't lose sight of what it is vs. the likes of a ducati cbr gsxr. just saying those bikes or hot but you'll never get the VFR in that league. I'm not saying it won't be compatible as in most cases it comes down to the rider making a bike do what it does. it's  just two different machines,  in that I have a CBR for my cure,  but man o man is the VFR a great ride.  I'm keeping an eye on this.  BTW,  you're not to far away ;) 

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Very fortunate to have such timely and valuable responses from the members that matter, this forum a a very spirited "call to order" ! 

Jamie has my order built It's going to be here any day. It will certainly put the suspension in a state of readiness as the power and response gets unleashed "bit by bit." This week I got in touch with Gerhard at Sturn Motosports in Germany, along with the clutch Window will also be relocating the rectifier and also be getting a German hand wound  " reinforced stator and rectifier". This will maximize the output capacity of electrical system so there are no gaps in unleashing all factory power. The double snorkel airbox is to revert back to the original attributes of design basis intent, before it got down powered with emission regulations. The brakes will eventually be addressed my right now this bike lives in wide open spaces, no traffic, no traffic lights, very long , uninhabited open roads, perfect for testing. Just with the Black Widow "no-cat" headers it's already running 10 degrees Fahrenheit cooler and it climbs with wide open throttle right up to 155 mph showing on the speedometer, before it would start to level off speed at 143. I am expecting with addition of the K & N filter, Power Commander lll with O2 eliminator and Euro Fuel mapping (this is why I went with the German Euro ECU because the fuel mappings available) and the high level Staintune, it's going to keep climbing quickly right up to 160 mph, in a most responsive manner. I am expecting very subtle increments based on combination of all the mods. In the very end it will get a special Jet Aircraft grade  " slipstream" polish which add 5 mph over 120 mph, again very subtle, bit by bit and don't leave anything on the table !

 

 (Btw mod cost spending is now up to about $4000)

 

 

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All this hub-bub and no 8-spoke rear wheel upgrade, powdercoated to a minty shine?  WTF?  LOL!

 

I would say, forego the CBR rear shock and just have Jamie re-do your rear shock to your liking.  Then spend the money on the 8-spoke rear wheel plus powder coat both wheels to dark gold, upgrade your headlight bulbs to whatever suits your fancy, LED rear taillights, (do you have the matching rear seat cowl?), then maybe a very nice, GIVI tank bag with a tank lock.  Might as well add steel braided hoses (in red of course), and maybe a nice set of rear sets.  Why not?  Go splurge a bit more!  In the end you will have a bike that is unique, has great performance, and looks new too! 

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In the pic of twin snorkel on the bike (pic 8), is that piece of foam still in infront of snorkels. If so that can be taken out.

Cheers 

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The purpose of pic 8 is showing the twin snorkel fits fine , with adequate and proportional clearance and space, in screwed down position There is in fact S relation between the diameters of the 4 intake round manifolds and the dual square inlet of each snorkel , so with two snorkels this is restored to that same proportion, so the airbox is serving its overall purpose to both draw in cool air and protect excessive debris with the turned down positing . I would go as far to say at some point durung the original basis, this is what the airbox looked like on the drawing board and then the flapper was added for a totally different purpose.So iit got "erased" with my  dremel tool, So negative , there is "no foam"and I'll get better pictures  in better light when I have the tank in the ypnposition during the next round of the installations. I think it sounds and breathes perfect now with a twin snorkel, the little beast has its  nostrel fully restored with plastic surgery, its like it can fully breathe through its nose now, just like it was meant to by original creator, thus unleashing yet another tid bit of factory power, so now nothing is getting left on the drawing board.

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You need to request a name change to 4k1GoneWild...... :beer:

 

 

And if I may ask, how much do YOU weigh??  And how much less COULD you be?

If you want nothing left on the drawing board, this may be an avenue to explore too.

Lost ~24 pounds this summer by watching and limiting WHAT I eat, without being hungry or sacrificing eating tasty food...

 

 

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Being fit and at your ideal weight makes riding ANY bike a whole lot easier.  It also means your existing suspension doesn't work as hard as if you weighed 20-50 lbs. more.  Kind of like strapping a 50 lbs. ruck sack on your back.  Takes a lot more energy to move around with it, whether you're going up and down stairs or just walking on a flat surface.

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14 hours ago, Rogue_Biker said:

All this hub-bub and no 8-spoke rear wheel upgrade, powdercoated to a minty shine?  WTF?  LOL!

 

I would say, forego the CBR rear shock and just have Jamie re-do your rear shock to your liking.  Then spend the money on the 8-spoke rear wheel plus powder coat both wheels to dark gold, upgrade your headlight bulbs to whatever suits your fancy, LED rear taillights, (do you have the matching rear seat cowl?), then maybe a very nice, GIVI tank bag with a tank lock.  Might as well add steel braided hoses (in red of course), and maybe a nice set of rear sets.  Why not?  Go splurge a bit more!  In the end you will have a bike that is unique, has great performance, and looks new too! 

 

Where are people getting LED tail lights?  Are they just using replacement bulbs in the stock housing or is there a whole new unit offered by someone?

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 Actually I think most of those aftermarket type of made in China " cheapen" the bike and I do not plan on buying or installing anything (besides a temporary part) whatsoever from China on this bike, ever, period. For example I just bought a $50 made in China stator for the purpose of being able to use the bike after removing the OEM to send to Thurn Motorsport ( Made in Germany) to be rewound for higher output and to match up with a higher capacity recitifier ( Made in Germany) so my VFR will have a Made In Germany electrical generation system. I would not be able to sleep at night with a Made in China electrical generation system because at some point it will unexpectedly and prematurely fail and need to be replaced, 

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