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soarider

10 amp fuse keeps blowing

so here is my problem i have a 2000 vfr 8001461798729186[1].jpg the fuse box right behind the tank is blowing the turn signal and horn fuse ,this happend in the morning ,so later that day i started taking apart the bike all the fairing down to the bare butt ,i had unpluged every thing on that circut ,it is a direct short to ground ,i know this cause i tested it with my light and no matter what i did it did not change ,so the short has to be after  the fuse box before it gets to the plug up front for the right hand control plug for the starter swith and the on and off swtich for the engine ,that much i do know now the bike still runs ,but i took a really thick jumper wire and put it where the fuse would go ,i left the key in the off postion when i put the wire in i left it in place and i very quickly switch the key on and off to see if i could see anything obvious ,well all the lites on the dash were dim both time when i switched the key on and off once i saw that i turned off the switch and removed the wire ,then i tried to start it one last time and nothing no fuel pump running no fuel pump relay just lites on dash and the fi lite was flashing codes it flASHED a 12 13 14 15 8 and 9 with all that being said i think i fried the ecm i screwed the pooch on this one so now i im pretty sure i have to buy a computuer for it ,im so pissed off at my self ,does any body have a computer for my bike that i could buy off of i need one :blush: im also going to buy a hole new harness for it ,to many issues with this one, does any body have any suggestions that i can do to confirm that the computer is dead for sure .this is my every day driver ,i dont even know how im getting to wk on tues :mad:   

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Well, the PGM-FI unit (ecm) is unlikely to be bad.  This sounds to me like a wiring problem, e.g., something has worn through the insulation on that circuit and grounded it.  Starting with the turn signals and horn, start tracing the hot side wires back to the fuse.  Not a fun job, but cheaper than buying an ecm and it still not solving the problem...

 

Ciao,

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You should have mentioned this but that fuse also does brake lights and the VFR has a stupid failure associated with this fuse blowing.

OMG gee my VFR has another electrical problem. How unusual, not

 

I just went through trying to sort this out and nothing much made sense until I come across a post either here or elsewhere I can't remember but I thank the author for posting. Maybe this will help you

 

On front brake switch there are 2 insulated connectors. If say, you have adjusted the lever for a better angle one of those connectors may push on the top fork clamp. Eventually vibration of the bike will make the electrical connector inside wear through the plastic and there will be a short each time the brake front or rear is activated. It visually won't be obvious. 

Hope this helps.

 

As for the other issue you have created, sorry not there is not  much I can offer help on other than suggesting that fuse has a reason for its rating and never bypass it.

 

 

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1 hour ago, GleninAus said:

You should have mentioned this but that fuse also does brake lights and the VFR has a stupid failure associated with this fuse blowing.

OMG gee my VFR has another electrical problem. How unusual, not

 

I just went through trying to sort this out and nothing much made sense until I come across a post either here or elsewhere I can't remember but I thank the author for posting. Maybe this will help you

 

On front brake switch there are 2 insulated connectors. If say, you have adjusted the lever for a better angle one of those connectors may push on the top fork clamp. Eventually vibration of the bike will make the electrical connector inside wear through the plastic and there will be a short each time the brake front or rear is activated. It visually won't be obvious. 

Hope this helps.

 

As for the other issue you have created, sorry not there is not  much I can offer help on other than suggesting that fuse has a reason for its rating and never bypass it.

 

 

That was me 99. Hope your pooch is nor screwed, soarider.  I assume you checked the main fuse? One way to test a PGM-FI unit is to swap in a known good one from a friends bike.

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On 9/4/2016 at 2:40 PM, RolandHTG said:

That was me 99. Hope your pooch is nor screwed, soarider.  I assume you checked the main fuse? One way to test a PGM-FI unit is to swap in a known good one from a friends bike.

 

Yes...but how many new ecus do you want to buy?  :unsure:

 

Ciao,

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On ‎4‎/‎09‎/‎2016 at 11:51 PM, GleninAus said:

You should have mentioned this but that fuse also does brake lights and the VFR has a stupid failure associated with this fuse blowing.

OMG gee my VFR has another electrical problem. How unusual, not

 

I just went through trying to sort this out and nothing much made sense until I come across a post either here or elsewhere I can't remember but I thank the author for posting. Maybe this will help you

 

On front brake switch there are 2 insulated connectors. If say, you have adjusted the lever for a better angle one of those connectors may push on the top fork clamp. Eventually vibration of the bike will make the electrical connector inside wear through the plastic and there will be a short each time the brake front or rear is activated. It visually won't be obvious. 

Hope this helps.

 

As for the other issue you have created, sorry not there is not  much I can offer help on other than suggesting that fuse has a reason for its rating and never bypass it.

 

 

Thanks GleninAus, you saved me a from a major mission I had adjusted my levers down slightly and then on my next ride my indicator/horn & brake light fuse starting blowing..... :cheerleader:

I could of spent along time tracing wires etc!

 

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On 9/4/2016 at 4:51 AM, GleninAus said:

You should have mentioned this but that fuse also does brake lights and the VFR has a stupid failure associated with this fuse blowing.

OMG gee my VFR has another electrical problem. How unusual, not

 

I just went through trying to sort this out and nothing much made sense until I come across a post either here or elsewhere I can't remember but I thank the author for posting. Maybe this will help you

 

On front brake switch there are 2 insulated connectors. If say, you have adjusted the lever for a better angle one of those connectors may push on the top fork clamp. Eventually vibration of the bike will make the electrical connector inside wear through the plastic and there will be a short each time the brake front or rear is activated. It visually won't be obvious. 

Hope this helps.

 

As for the other issue you have created, sorry not there is not  much I can offer help on other than suggesting that fuse has a reason for its rating and never bypass it.

 

 

 

this is great info, thanks!
all the sudden my bike started blowing this fuse some time back, very intermittently. It all went away after I redid the forks, which naturally mean taking the front of the bike apart and moving everything a little. I did notice where the two wires come out of the front brake switch, one was bent pretty far so I straightened it. I'll check through it again. 

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